We've put together a RU-vid Playlist with several more videos about the Antirock and some of it's competitors: ru-vid.com/group/PLku2B9MS_IIR2NGkH32jy7jknEpggy40C
The AntiRock will give you more stability vs being fully disconnected on the highway. Compared to the stock swaybar when connected it's roughly the same but there is more body-roll.
I have been running the Currie Antirock in the front of my JK for 2 years. It is AWESOME and one of my favorite mods. Off-road it is very flexy as you mentioned but really adds some control you lose when disconnected entirely. On-road I barely noticed a change. And if anything I think it kind of eliminated the bobble head effect that the lifted jeep had with the stock sway bar. It's a great mod. When people ask me if I like it and is it worth the money I tell them this. If all you care about is an RTI ramp score then don't get it. If you want improved off road control with nearly the same flex as being disconnected altogether with the added benefit of not having to lay down in the dirt trying to disconnect and reconnect while someone rocks your jeep back and forth while you bang at the disconnects with a piece of wood or hammer.... then maybe you should consider the Antirock!
I had the Currie Antirock bc I won it in a raffle, and after 1 month running with it (street and trails) I went back to OEM for the street and quick disc for the trails, I sold the Currie and invested that money in valve adjustment for the shoxs and dual/progressive rate springs and the results are far better than running just the Currie Antirock, out of all the awesome product that Curries has, the Antirock is a waste of money in my opinion.
Excellent explanation of the Anti-Rock sway bar system and how it works when comparing to other options that require you to physically/electronic disconnect the sway bars. Good stuff! Thank you!
Been thinking about these, but been driving my lifted XJ without swaybars for over a decade. I do drive it like its an old mac truck. Give myself lots of room and take corners slow. Going to be hard to justify the cost since I've gone so long without sway bars.
I just heard of this thing is why I watched the video. He says it has “almost” as much flex. And doesn’t work as good as a regular sway bar on the road. $660 for my Xj. No thanks. The only reason I considered it was better control on the smooth parts of the trail when you get some speed. It’s not that hard to disconnect the sway bars. I have a piece of canvas I lay on anyway. (Not scared of getting dirty really but I laid down in a bunch of stickers once and the desert floor can be hot as hell).
Driving with swaybar disconnected is like steering a boat. Take a corner too fast and your front tire will come off the road. The Rubicon swaybar disconnect is problematic, or has been in the past. I think the AntiRock is a better option for the JK, and possibly the JL and JT Rubicons. Oh wow, this is from 2017, just popped up on my feed.
I had these on my TJ for years and loved them. They are well made and allowed the TJ to really flex. All without having to get out lay in the dirt to disconnect or reconnect. Now that I have a JK Rubicon I just push a button 👍
I installed the Teraflex Dual Rate swaybar on the front a few years ago and I love it, I can turn a knob when on the road and when at the trailhead turn the knob to disconnect. Last year I put the Currie Antirock on the Rear, what a difference on the ride off road I love this setup.
Thought I'd just jump in on these - I run them in the front with the stock bar in the back on my JK Rubicon. The Jeep's done the Rubicon, Fordyce, Swamp Lake, Deer Valley, Slick Rock and lots of other trails with this setup. No issues and the articulation was fine, the loss compared to fully disconnected is unnoticeable on the trail. I also have quick disconnects on the front to just be that extra special for when I want to hit an RTI ramp. For you Rubicon guys - the electric sway bar disconnect gave me two problems: 1. with my suspension setup, it didn't come close to articulating like it should and 2. the damn thing stopped locking back up which was no fun on the curvy highway roads coming back from the trail.
I had a yj with coil over shock and when i put the antirock sway bar wow what a diferent in conford feeling antirock is the way to go. Good video brother! Tks!
Just a quick NOTE; The Away Bar does Not push down when the opposite wheel is pushed up. A Sway bar is typically made from ONE piece of specially treated steel, the reason is simple you go into a curve a little fast and one side the shocks compress, the coils compress and the sway bar on the OPPOSITE pushes DOWN in return it also pushes DOWN on the other side to stop or reduce the Rolling of a vehicle. Your New set up has a much SMALLER Diameter sway bar with an adjustable FIXED position and since the adjustable Part allows for basically reduction Leverage in conjunction with the smaller diameter Rod that is less resistance to twisting when a Force is put on it . what is pushing as YOU say down on the opposite side IS the Weight of the Wheel & Tire and the Weight of the AXEL
Ugh, stop saying the body is disconnected from the frame.... The frame is what is connected the AXLES.... if the body is discount from the frame the body would slide off the frame.
Just took a look at the curie antirock. Its a softer anti-sway bar. It doesn't push the other tire down it actually pulls it up reducing the body roll. So when say the right tire goes up the arm rotates twisting the torsion bar rotating the left bar up but not as much because the torsion bar is a spring which will allow the other side to not move as much. I removed the anti-sway bar from my old CJ rock crawler and just live with the extra body roll.
AGREE!!! both the Currie and the OEM Anty sway bar do and work in the exact same way!!! I get sick just hearing that the Currie forces the opposite wheel down when the other one itravels up! me personally, the Currie Antirock is a glorified ant sway bar, further more, if you read the description on it it says "CAUTION: Jeeps will have more body roll than stock. This sway bar may be used on the street, however, it will not provide the same handling characteristics as the stock setup." my point! a glorified anty sway bar
The term you are looking for is "axle articulation" - "flex" isn't appropriate unless you mean the actual axle is twisting. The only effective means of having some suspension and "forcing" the less loaded tyre down is to use a "Z" bar - check them out on Google - which really only have a place in controlling the 'tuck under' prevalent in some swing axle designs as they limit the suspension travel when both wheels are loaded or unloaded - like over a hump in the road. The difference between a "Z' bar and a traditional anti-roll bar (known as a sway bar by Americans for some arcane reason) is the ARB resists differences in travel between the sides - if one side is compressed in cornering, or by supension loading on a bump, the ARB transfers some of the load to the wheel that is less compressed, lifting it against the spring. OK, done some checking and, as I suspected, the product is just a lower rate (thinner) ARB (anti-roll bar). Personally, I would just look at some means of quickly and easily removing one drop link on either side - the rest of the bar and other link can just be left in place.
so... it's my understanding they are more flexible than conventional normal swaybars, and you don't disconnect. you just get more control off-road and less sway restriction on-road
NotaRubicon Productions do you know of a good way to have the ability to drive down the road like a freight train on rails. while at the same time functional flex off-road.
For me, I want the stiffest "antisway bar" for the road and speeds, SO ITS SAFE-ER. The jeep already has tons of movement at speed and corners. There are several sway bar connections that create movement, that equates to looseness. But in stock form the sway bar is all bolted together for very little movement. Then I want to disconnect at the trail the get the MOST flex from the expensive suspension. I just couldn't get my head around him saying More traction off road, if it limits flex. NOPE, I don't want a sway bar that's loser than stock or equal too. Also, the rubicon does have a release button but doesn't fully disconnect for full flex. You still have to disconnect for that. I've been an off roader for near 50 years, and fully understand off-road suspensions.
I think you did a good job of why you like the set up, and how the antirock works for you, it was informative, and people should do their research to see if it works for their needs. I don't understand how it "pushes down". I think you may be mistaken on that point. but thanks for making the video. And grammar police should relax.
SuperCellProductions there’s a huge difference from just having disconnects vs having an antirock. Case and point I’ve been up quite a few hard climbs where my friends couldn’t maintain traction as well as my Jeep and didn’t follow me. And we run the same specs bar antirocks
I think one of the biggest benefits is the bar pushing your tire down. The thing aids traction more than people realize. My XJ is locked in front so I don't worry about it but if someone wanted to keep their front open for whatever reason, this product would be very helpful.
You just need to do one side, front and back (if fitted there). To clarify for all those people who don't understand how an ARB works, THESE DO NOT FORCE THE TYRE DOWN! What they do is reduce the lifting force of the ARB on the wheel with more droop/less compression against the vehicle's springs. If you are serious, run softer springs and no ARP to maximise articulation and hook up an ARB when on the road, proper - REMEMBER, what we are all trying to do is load the tyres EQUALLY across the axles, to maximise overall traction! As such, if anything, you want to use a "Z" bar - look them up, which do actually transfer the tyre to ground loading.
Yea, it's more for lazy people from what I've gotten from the video. Definately not worth the money, especially for two pieces of bent metal some screws and links
Thanks for your detailed explanation. My JK auto disconnect motor failed me last Saturday near the Salton Sea (I think I saw you guys at AM/PM off the 111?) I am now in need of a new sway bar system and was wondering what Anti-Rock was all about. Now I know thanks to you :-)
Thanks John! I am aware of the EVO device you speak of. That said, I have a front skid plate directly below my swaybar motor which makes access to the EVO disco nearly impossible. Since I posted this comment, I purchased the Terflex Dual Rate S/T Swaybar Kit. That did not work because I had a problem with my AEV front bumper and winch plate marrying up with the Terflex product. Long story short, I was going to have to cut metal while creating some custom fabrication to my bumper which was going to weaken my winch plate. Last Saturday, I began to install the ANTIROCKS and even with the ANTIROCKS I have to cut a small semicircle from my metal recovery points on both sides to allow the arms to swing properly. The metal cutting party will happen this coming Saturday. Wish me luck :-)
Do you run the anti-rock or know anyone who runs the rear anti-rock for the JK/JKU? Disconnection the front sway bar is no big deal for me but I really like the anti-rock. My thought was buy the rear first then save for the front.
We run only the front Anti-Rock and I think i've only seen one person that runs a rear, and that was on an LJ or TJ (can't remember exactly but was not a JK). From what I have read, on a JK, disconnecting the rear sway bar does not do much good so putting in a rear Antirock doesn't do much either.
I have a rear Anti-Rock on my 2013 JKU and it works very well. I had a front also and removed it for a couple different reasons and went back to the stock swaybar with the quick disconnects. He is defiantly right about the aluminum arms in the front... mine got all waggeled out ( don't think that's a real word ) but i drive a lot in the mountains and my rig is very heavy 7,100 pounds it is just better for me to have the stock heavier swaybar in the front.
you can feel a difference vs being connected, but it's not as loose as being disconnected. After about an hour of driving with the Antirock, it felt "normal" ..
Great video. I have another question. I have been driving a 2004 TJ Rubicon with 33's and a 4.5" rubicon express short arm lift for about 13 years and have been happy with the on and offroad performance. But now I'm considering upgrading to 35's. Since i have the rubicon what else would i need to upgrade if i change to 35's? I plan on continuing to do trails that are not too crazy but have plenty of fun obsticles. Much like some of the moderate trails or some tough trails I've seen u go thru. I'd say trails like Cleghorn are what i would do. I've done some research but there are lots of opinions out there and i figured ur opinion would carry some weight for me after getting familiar with u thru your videos. I'm here in SoCal, los Angeles basin, and plan to join ur group one day. Any info u can provide will be appreciated.
We arent as familiar with the older Wranglers but it sounds like you probably don't need much more to accommodate your 35's.. You might have to trim some plastic/metal around the fenders, but probably not much (if anything) more!
Hello NotaRubicon - Many questions: 1) That's a fair price, considering people buy HID Projection headlights for up to $1000., and RIGID hood mounted lights for $800. 2) I have a 5 month old 2018 JKU, MOPAR lift, 35" tires - Will my dealership have any issues installing this? 3) Is a wheel alignment needed after the install for front & rear Currie Antirock?
Cant speak for your dealership but my guess is if you give them enough money they'll do anything.. But i would recommend you have it installed at your local 4x4/off-road shop.. no alignment is needed after installation.
Not if everything is installed right, you don't have any other issues, and don't make any sudden/erratic/unsafe maneuvers.. We cruise at 70-80 on the freeway all the time.
I have not had any issues what so ever with mine at freeway speeds up to 80mph. But then again, one thing to remember, you are in a jeep. So you don't drive like a sports car normally anyways!
Some of your info is incorrect. Non sway bar equipped vehicles are not unsafe. They may not handle as well in curves. Day bars do not attach the body to the frame. They connect the left and right sides of the suspension in order to keep the vehicle flatter under lateral load. Sway bars cannot "push a tire down" while the other is compressed. That would be the opposite of what a sway bar does.
Kzander Ardenflaas - actually driving on the highway disconnected is extremely unsafe. Try making an abrupt maneuver at 70mph without anti-sway bar....
keath flohr leaf springs have anti sway capabilities built in, and thus some vehicles don't use extra anti sway bars. Also, the front is the only that matters. Having a strong front causes understeer, while a stronger rear induces oversteer which is the unsafe condition
I stroongly disagree. For my application anyway. My van is so heavy and with an 8 inch lift it needed an anti sway bar in the rear. As long as the one in the front is stiffer it should be fine. That being said I am using the stock bar that came on it as an IFS on a solid axle 4x4 conversion. The IFS system located the sway bar in the middle between the wheel and the lower A arm swivel point. Thus it should be pretty stiff on a solid axle. I wish it was stiffer for on the road but its about right on the trail.
