Very nicely done. Much nicer than the one I did a couple years ago. I may have to try another one. BTW, I have adapted many of your tips into my shop. It would be difficult to list all of them. I look forward to your videos.
That was interesting. I worked for myself as a tree surgeon years ago and removed a Mackay ceder for a client in town. Because it's a valuable timber l saved it all instead of dumping it. I advertised it for sale and sold the bulk of it and had a call from a wood turner that wanted some small stuff for turning. I gave him quite a bit of it and he arrived a week later with two chalices like in this video, they were very thin with a fine lip. I didn't think they would last long and would surely crack, but its been fourty years and their still perfect, l use them regularly. He had a secret I'm sure, l treasure these beyond words.
Mike, excellent as always, thank you for your video, have been planning to turn a chalice as a gift for a friend of mine, your instructions will help me make my plan a reality. Thanks again, Mick.
Hello Mike, I appreciate your ministry. I enjoy your videos; they are educational and have provided me with lots of ideas. Thank you and keep up the great work. Ben Green
Very nice work, and I appreciate how you keep mentioning the basics of the cutting process. Even tho I am a very experienced turner, it never hurt to be reminded.
Very nice Chalice Mike. Looking forward to the next project you have in mind. Each Vid is a pleasure to view, so keep up the good work for the less discerning turner..
Mike, thanks so much for producing this video. Love it. I’m amazed (and baffled) that you’re able to maintain a secure grip of that ~4” cylinder with only the jaws of the chuck, particularly while hollowing out the bowl after doing the 1” bore. It seems to me that almost *any* force inside the bowl while hollowing it out would send that cylinder flying. Aside from using very small cuts, what else would be needed in order to avoid this?
Glad it was helpful! Notice that I am using Power grip jaws, the strongest jaws Teknatool has. The power grip jaws can a hold a maximum size wood blank of 200mm (8 inches) diameter by 310mm (12 inches) with a dovetail tenon 3 1/8" in diameter. This blank was clearly smaller and no problem. The normal 50mm jaws should be able to handle the blank I used. Making a proper tenon is essential. Sharp tools and light cuts would also be essential if using the standard jaws.
Good morning Mike i enjoy your woodturning Nand i learn a lot . one question I saw you turn the chalice great work as usual .what I am looking for is where did you get the one inch drill bit /the reason is when i turn Pepper mills or grinders ,I have a hard time drilling the holes ,some dont come out strait , looking forward to hear from you if you got time take care Joey
I got it from a friend who bought 4 from an industrial tools dealer and sold at a good price to cover his shipping. Do an internet search for 1" HSS MT2 Taper Shank Drill
Hello Mike , Great job and demonstration, I think the spiraling is a nice touch on chalice stem! I shall look forward to seeing the video with the companion piece as I have a similar project in mind......long story but I have a piece of yew that I want to make a Cross from and would like to add a chalice and platter to go with it. Cheers, Bram. (England)
Thank you again for a great video. I turned a chalice this afternoon for my Church but was wondering what I should use to finish it? It is sanded to 600 and smooth as glass. Its made out of mahogany.
Don, I used Minwax Antique Oil on mine - probably six coats. With mahogany I might want to use a coat or two of sanding sealer or shellac thinned a bit for penetration. Or thin the first couple of coats of Antique oil as you want some penetration. The main thing is not leaving wine or juice in it for hours and hours. Rinse and wipe dry. With the AO finish it is easy to renew with another coat or two and buff. Any hard finish like poly or lacquer will be difficult to repair.
Very nice! As an ordained elder in the United Methodist Church I would be proud to use such a chalice. It seems to me that your work may also be spiritually inspired!! My question, is there a way to reverse that grooved pattern making a sort of a crisscross on the stem? I have never seen such a device and thought it fascinating to watch you use it.
Thanks so much for your comment, David. I also am a member of the UMC. Yes, you can tilt the wheel in the opposite direction and take another pass creating a cross hatching effect. Sometimes you can get some tearout but would probably work well on Bradford Pear. You can see this with a less course wheel in the thumbnail to this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GJ5xgEHSuJU.html
Mike, I have found that for me the hollowing is easier in end grain with a sharp square carbide bit. (after establishing the depth with the drill bit) I have tried using the bowl gouges but they seem to require more sideways force and with the carbide bit it is a straight in cut and goes quite well. Then I clean it up with a sharp scraper. Your thoughts?
Very nice chalice Mike and educational as always. At the 12:20 mark when you are starting to shape the bottom of the cup there is a little vibration or howling. Is that the wood vibrating or chattering where the tool is in contact with the chalice or is the wood vibrating in the chuck jaws?i Have you ever used a steady rest? The ones I have seen use łhree rolllerblade wheels to steady or stabilize/support the wood. Do you think a steady rest would help get ride of the vibration? Or would the steady rest just get in the way? Thanks for your time. Ron
The chattering comes from wood vibration. It is affected by the thickness of the support, the distance the turning is extended from the chuck, lathe speed, tool sharpness and pressure. I have a simple two wheel steady rest I made but seldom have the need to use. A steady rest may have helped, but I was able to resolve the chattering and the impact on the turning without it. For a piece this size I would not resort to a steady rest unless other measures failed. It is helpful on long spindles. I could be helpful on a large vase or hollow form unsupported on the TS end.
Mike Peace Woodturning Thanks for the reply and information Mike. I always thought it was a dull tool and to much pressure from using a dull tool when I didn’t want to resharpen yet causing the wood to vibrate but wasn’t sure if the sound came 100% from the wood or the wood and chuck, etc... Thanks for the clarification. Ron
Another factor is chuck jaw size. I used Nova titan chuck with large power grip jaws. Matching the jaw size and shape to the tenon is also a factor. If you can get a piece of paper between the face of a jaw and the wood, you don't have the best hold and this will lead to vibration as well.
Nothing works great. The key is to wash and dry by hand after use. I use multiple coats of Minwax Antique oil but it has been discontinued. Perhaps several coats of wipe on poly?
Oops. I did not cover that at all did I? I use 5 or 6 coats of Minwax Antique oil. It has worked well in use as long as it is cleaned and dried promptly after use.
Mike what do you mean when you say your scraper has a negative rake? I like that chalice and the way you explain what you are doing. Thanks for sharing. God Bless my friend.
A negative rake means the the handle is higher than the cutting edge. A negative rake scraper, on the other hand, has a bevel on top and a bevel on the bottom of the scraper for an included angle of about 70 degrees. Thanks for your comment.
Thank you very much for that great demonstration Mike, lokking forvard for the next video. One question, what do you use as varnish as it will be used if I understood you right. May God bless you. Regards Júlíus
I use Minwax Antique Oil. Most Antique oils are basically 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 oil - typically boiled linseed oil, and 1/3 urethane varnish. Several coats, each at least a day a part. After the last coat, 4 or 5, I wait at least 3 days till you can't smell the solvent. Then I buff.
Hello Mike, I am the priest at a tiny little mission in the mountains of West Virginia. We opened s mission church for the poor here and would love to have s chalice and small plate (paten). Do you make them?
Mike when you were doing the spiraling tool you said to “raise the handle” and I know previously you said to raise the handle on a regular scraper (but not on a negative rake scraper). Is that because the spiraling tool works with a scraping type action? Ron
Been turning for only 6 mo this or so.... any suggestions on a website or place to find good wood blanks?? Preferably 4x4" or so. Everywhere I look online, it seems to be outrageously overpriced. Anywhere reasonably priced?
God Damn it that is magnificent. I have always wanted to do one of these, but never had the know how, the plans or the right wood. Do you say there are plans (measurements etc.) on your web page. Great video buddy. Big thumbs up - 👍👍👍.
May God bless it...No plans or measurements. Scale it up or down. The thumbnail should give you a good sense of the proportions. Make one and then another. Good luck.
My problem is sharpening tools . Where is the best place to get advice? We don’t have turning clubs anywhere in this part of the uk so it’s you tube or nothing
