Not really a maintenance question, but one of sustainability. Us cyclists tend to be an environmentally conscious bunch, so it really pained me to throw away an old Red cassette only because a couple of cogs were worn down. Are there initiatives from bicycle manufacturers or other parties to salvage and recycle old frames and components? Specifically steel, titanium, and aluminum. (I guess carbon is just special waste.) Alternatively: are there industry initiatives to make products more durable or easier to repair? (E.g., I still prefer Shimano to SRAM because I can/could replace individual cogs on a cassette.) My guess is probably not, since that's contrary to how our economy works these days, but here's hoping. #askgcntech
If you could help us understand where we can find this information about how much force (Nm) we need to use on the Torque wrench. Also it would be good to share also for non thru axel
Top tip that you didn’t mention. Always wind up to your desired torque setting and not down to it. So if you are at a higher setting than needed , wind down past the setting you want and then wind back up to it .
Another tip: hold the torque wrench handle in the appropriate position, normally near the end of the handle. Choking up (holding it closer to the bits) may add a couple on newton meters to the setting. (Learned this the hard way …)
I've used torque wrenches for 20 years. My two top tips, click it once and once only, making it click twice will add more torque. Store at 0 nm/ft lbs or even below if the wrench lets you.
@@jamesmckenzie3532 In the automotive world, torquing a nut (especially a car wheel) meant tightening until it clicked once and moving on to the next nut in a star pattern. Then coming back, repeating and doing each nut a second time for a second click. I assume tightening other nuts changes something on the other nuts. Makes sense if you jump over to a musical instrument and tuning one string affects others.
@@sonny9608 you know I dont mean clicking more then once in a set period right? I mean click twice on the same bolt, once it clicks or beeps its torqued, no need for another.
Watch out for the smaller TW-5.2 I had 3 bad warranty replacements from Park Tool all from brand new. different issues from the adjustment knob falling off, then not clicking under 10Nm (cracked my seat post at “6Nm” so I lost $100 there) then the replacement wouldn’t click under 8Nm, the latest one is fine.
Kudos for talking about how to properly store and to avoid unnecessary overuse! Under "Types of torque wrenches", it should be mentioned that there are "beam type" torque wrenches that are considerably less expensive than dial-type and more suitable for the home-mechanic's budget. Also at 00:57, as much as I'd like to see SAE (AKA "imperial) units abolished, there are still many torque wrenches (beam type) and torque charts that have things like inch-pound and foot-pound scales...
BUYERS GUIDE: If you are buying a torque wrench bare in mind 90% of torque wrenches on sale only work in the clockwise direction, but on a bike there are a couple of important reverse thread bolts, that would need a counter clockwise wrench. Even if the wrench says "reversable" that just means you can rachet in both directions, not that the torque setting works in both directions. The easiest solution is to buy a bike specific tool like a park tool which can torque in both directions. The park tool aslo has the appropriate range of torque settings for a bike. Annoyingly if you are going to work on a full bike, you may need 2 wrenchs, 1 for low torque 4-20 and one for higher 20-60N. You can't get a single wrench that will do that whole range. The park tool does 10-60 which is pretty good. You could pair that with something cheaper, or tighten the small bolts to feel. I run the "will this kill me if it comes loose" test. The cheaper solution is a split beam torque wrench. That can actually go from 0-60Nm, and doesn't need to be calibrated, and costs less, and goes in both directions.
@@DavidWhiteOfFleet This is incorrect. On click-type torque wrenches, incorrect hand placement leads to incorrect torque applied. The torque will be higher if the hand is placed closer to the bolt and lower if further away from the bolt.
Would have been nice to have included a more traditional beam torque wrench that measures via deflection. That’s what I use, and I suspect many others do as well, when it comes to the bigger numbers.
If I wanted to check a bolt for a certain torque I can't use this specific wrench? I want to check the torque of my Shimano XT deraileur clutch on my MTB. Thanks
What do you suggest when you’ve torqued your seat post to the correct torque (even over tightened at this point) but it keeps sliding down on rides.. Yes carbon gripper paste is used
What I have done on mine is to have a second, slim seat post clamp on the post immediately above the clamping point on the frame. It's really not done up tightly, but having two acts like a locking nut.
They only have single-figure torque values with no decimal points, but enough to get by. Even a small Torqkey preset torque tool is OK to bring along. If I have one, I'd bring the 5 Nm version since most cockpits need a 5 Nm torque spec. Useful in the shop too if you're lazy to use your regular torque wrench just to make some cockpit adjustments.
I have the Topeak Nanotorq 5 Nm kit that I pack with me. I was wondering the same. So far it has worked well but I'm curious over time how close it is to a calibrated unit.
I carry one in my saddle bag. It's either 4 or 5 nm, which will do for most of what I might need to torque. Have yet to use it on the road though. Knock wood.
Hi Alex and anybody else. I have a tubeless tyre stuck fast onto a wheel rim. What are your hints and tips for a non-violent solution? My best idea right now is to grab the tyre in a vice and use a heat gun to hopefully soften the dried sealant. Any help from anybody would be really appreciated.
@@ddavidd430 WTB Venture on WTB KOM wheels. The tubeless setup was done by the shop after the wheel was replaced after the rim weld cracked less than a month after I bought the bike (a Kona Sutra). I think they thought they were doing me a favor, but I lost tyre pressure after a couple of days. I suspect they put the Apprentice on the job, but that is speculation on my part. I'm kind of grumpy about it right now!
@@jonfarmer7914 oh okay, I just know of a couple of people with Giant/Liv bikes who have had the rim tape (almost like masking tape) bond itself to the tyre making it a 🤬 to budge.
Some facts from Hazet and Park Tool: It´s no problem to undo screws with torque wrenches! (ONLY if they are uni directional) They are NOT loosing spring tension, if they aren´t set back to zero! BUT if you set them for example to 4Nm and leave it like that for some days, you HAVE to reset it again to 4Nm... And you finally forgot to tell an important point: You must use it exactly on the handle grip!! If you grab to short you need more power, and also give to much Nm on the screw! If you grab it at the very end of the lever, you will stay below the Nm value! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BPe1-bDFVRM.html Only click ONE time on single screws! But if you have multiple screws, like one a stem or disc brakes, you need to click 2 times! (because the tension changes on every tightened screw)
Manufacturers websites a lot of the time are the place to go, email them if need be! You can search part codes or serial numbers to try find product information too. Also owners manual for your bike will have a lot of them
It depends on usage frequency. Under frequent use, an annual inspection is recommended. Torque wrench calibration can be done by torque tool calibration labs.
A more expensive one (like a Gedore) needs a calibration after thousands of clicks, in private use it would last many years to reach this number of clicks. For professional shops it's more important to calibrate them from time to time since they use them way more often. Accuracy is especially important with lower torques, since 2 Nm more at a torque setting of 5 Nm is relatively much for small threads, while 4 or 5 Nm more or less at 40 Nm isn't that crucial.
#askthegsntech Hi, Alex I have the following problem. I have a Shimano RD R9150 di2 rear derailler which when I tried to adjust as per shimano's instructions in its app runs out of steps (16 steps in either direction) and the chain slightly rubs the previous sprocket even in +16. Can you help?
Do torque wrenches generally also measure torque backwards? For example, when I installed my pedals, I was una le to measure the torque of one of my pedals because its thread runs the other way around. So, is my wrench crap, do I need a specific one that measures backwards or is there a bidirectional torque measuring wrench? #askgcntech
Virtually all will only work in the normal clockwise tightening direction, if you’re trying to tighten Garmin Vector pedals using the crowfoot adapter, just tighten the left (left hand threaded pedal) while still standing on the drive side of the bike, as you’re now still turning clockwise for the torque wrench to work but winding the thread towards you into the crank arm.
Some wrenches are bi-directional, most are uni-directional. Examine yours carefully. I use Wera insert wrenches (a couple other manufacturers also make similar ones), where the mechanism itself is uni-directional but the head insert can be reversed.
Torque wrench is a precision measurement instrument not a regular tool. It's good practice (especially for really high torques) to tighten first using a regular wrench and then finish up to precise torque using a torque wrench. And definitely most certainly absolutely no unscrewing with a torque wrench.
I'm dating myself with this comment but why didn't you mention the beam style torque wrenches? While the dial/click style wrenches might have more tech appeal they are more expensive to manufacture. So unless you are willing to spend more than a bit of money on a wrench you more than likely are going to end up with a torque wrench where quality has been sacrificed for tech appeal. Whereas with a much less expensive to produce beam style torque wrench allows more quality to go into its production.
Yes, you need a torque wrench! If you strip your bike threads or crack a part... DON'T ASK for a refund or warranty... knucklehead moves are not covered.
the calculated friction coefficient from bolts are measured without lube! Means, if you lube the screw, it has less friction in the thread... Result: you tighten the screw too tight!!
I don't understand why torque wrenches can be set to unscrew as well as tighten. If the advice is to only use them to measure torque then that is done when they are used to tighten up. If they are used to measure torque on bolts tightened by another tool surely that can damage them too.
@@DougMorley1 you find left hand threads not just on the bike (left pedal, or the right side of the bottom bracket), but also on some cars or light trucks (Japanese ones or older US ones) , which have left hand threads sometimes on the left side as wheel bolts
Let’s be honest, most of us do a little bit of unscrewing with our torque wrenches (don’t we?). It may not be best practice, but it’s certainly convenient at times, and as long as we’re careful no great harm will be done. Just don’t go using your precision torque wrench to crack rusted bolts, for example. You mention measuring torque on a bolt tightened by another tool. Be careful doing this. Another ‘click’ on a bolt that was already at the correct torque will likely leave the bolt over torqued. I understand the correct thing to do is to loosen the bolt (same tool, very convenient!) then tighten to a single click.
@@simonm1447 When using a torque wrench for left hand threads is it best to exclusively use it that way and another torque wrench exclusively for right hand threads. The implication being that to use only one torque wrench for both (as suggested in this video), would end up damaging it.
Once you understand what Torque wrenches like these are actually measuring (running torque) Vs. what you want to measure (Preload or clamping force) and how they are effected by lubricants, anti-seize, grip paste, locking compounds, rust, dirt, temperature, humidity, thread pitch, surface area, etc. You will realize that a torque wrench is next to useless for most bike applications and very small fixings in general.
Nice try but no... I still won't dare to attempt such manipulation on my 8000$CAD bike just to save a cheap trip to the bike shop. I'd rather pay for the peace of mind.
from Quora; "If you think about how this word is pronounced, the ‘r’ sound comes after the ‘e’ sound, so spelling it ‘meter’ means the letters are written in the same order as they are pronounced. For some reason, in French it is written with the ‘e’ after the ‘r’ despite the fact that nobody pronounces it that way. This is not unusual in French, but it really makes no logical sense. In English, other than American English, it is spelled the French way because English traditionally copies illogical spellings from other languages. The Americans are simply doing the same thing as logical languages such as German, by spelling the word in the same way it is pronounced. Does anyone criticise German for spelling it ‘meter’?"
@@firesurfer agree to disagree, he is English in the video therefore it is spelt metre. Metre is a French word as they were the first to use SI units, agree it doesn't sound like it is spelt that way but not everything is phonetic. If the content is English then use English.
I hate to sound like a hater, but this is a pretty poor video on torque wrenches and there is some massively important information left out… The explanation at the start to calculate torque only works for a straight bar or beam style torque wrench. Therefore it is pretty much wrong as it doesn’t work for click or digital torque wrenches which are the most common type of torque wrench for everyone below the needs of a workshop which is basically everyone! The click style torque wrenches have a pivot for the socket head to snap and pivot around once the clutch or digital reader reaches the desired torque, this is what makes the calculation at the start wrong! The pivot changes the calculation for torque. Especially important to know this if you have anything carbon! It’s also worth mentioning that holding your torque wrench in the correct location so the lever isn’t lengthened or shortened by your incorrect hand position! Further to this when buying a torque wrench it’s also worth knowing that some torque wrenches can only apply torque to standard thread and not both forward and reverse threads. Please do better next time when explaining something so important to people because when you put too much torque into carbon, which a hell of a lot of people have on their bike now, it shits it’s self dramatically!
You're wrong about the calculations, that is literally what torque is. Positioning the measurement near the ratchet means that the measuring mechanism has been calibrated bearing in mind where it is located. Putting 10 Newtons of force 10cm down the handle should cause the mechanism to click on a setting on 1Nm.
The calculation at the beginning is just the definition of torque, you don't need to use it to calculate anything if you have a torque wrench. You set to the desired torque, tighten until it clicks (or until the scale reads the desired number), no calculation necessary. Where you hold the torque wrench is also only important on bending beam torque wrenches, all other ones it doesn't matter where you hold it.
Damn he really forced that wider tire on his wheels. Barely any clearance left on the frame. People are obsessed with riding wider tires like it will make their penis bigger too for Gods sake.
