ALWAYS: When mounting the AMP, use washer to elevate it's bottom from the mounting surface of the vehicle. This will allow a hot amp to dissipate it's heat and avoid overheating much much much better.
Gorilla glue could probably work too.The stuff is VERY strong.If people are paranoid about moisture rotting the wood,then simply use a composite material of some sort or maybe a plastic cutting board for cooking.This idea is brilliant and it is how I'm going to do mine. Thing I don't like about velcro is that it makes a thiefs job very easy.This makes a thief really work for it if he wants it.
@sonic electonix I just add velcro under the amplifier and stick it directly onto the factory carpet. I only have to use the "hook" part of the velcro for it to work.
+Bigchuck678 installed enough that I can remove it but I didn't cover the entire thing. Just a few strips in the corners. Plus its under the seats so even if it did fray it a little bit you wouldn't see much.
I will probably go the Velcro route for what I need to install. I do like this method though, makes a solid support system underneath and if you ever need change it out, putting a new one in is easy
Another idea I just had that I may try is to just secure the piece of mounting wood to the body of the vehicle with sheets of sound deadening butyl. I think it would secure the wood strongly enough if you basically sandwiched it to the body and also provide the benefit of the dampening at the same time.
I basically create them or buy something with lots of points then the digs into the carpet without gluing it down the points if done right(pointy as possible) go into the carpet and create a great hold
wood is probably the cheapest to get a decent thickness for mounting screws. i might consider abs sheets, but those get costly of similar thickness. 3/8 2ft square is about $50 now.
If you live in a really wet region, you'll probably need to do something to that MDF before mounting it tbh. It sucks moisture like a sponge. I suppose you could use a piece of marine ply instead though.
Why when it's mounted in the car and under the seat? Unless you're getting in and out of your car to the point where your feet are saturating the carpet.
Roddy Da You don't think cars get humid? Have you ever noticed how car windows fog up? Ever noticed ice on the *inside* on a cold morning? Do you think that moisture just vanish because you turn on the heat? It's water. Water doesn't vanish with heat. At best it turns into steam (if things get hot enough) which is still moisture and will turn into water again once cooled down. The moisture ends up in the seats, the carpets etc. MDF really can't handle moisture. At all. It's basically sawdust glued together with binders and it tends to swell up and get "bumps" if anyone even thinks about spilling water on it. Of course it can be sealed using special primers, paint etc. but even there you need to be careful about what kind you use, since MDF will also soak that up and swell if you just cover it in a thick coat of generic primer. I'm sure it'll be fine for a long time for most people, but it's just pointless using it for that kind of application. There's only downsides to it. Not a single upside. You can get cheaper boards that are better for that application. So why use MDF?
I've been installing amps under seat and I just keep it over there for years! I don't understand why you need to fix amp as it has self weight and wiring so it won't move here and there! Now I have 0 gauge wiring so it's impossible to move amp here and there now! 😅 This technique of adding MDF doesn't really make sense as their is natural gravitational force to keep amp on its place lol!
You sound single.In your case,you could just throw the seat away and mount it anywhere over there.People with friends,family and kids will kick the amp around.
Personally, I don't like mounting amps under the front seats. In my experience passengers tend to get restless and kick 'em. I wonder if that's how they got their name?
I got a question, I seen a video on the channel of Brendon taking the radio out of his lexus is 250. I'm trying to figure out what's the best subwoofer set up for a kicker cvr switchable impedance 1ohm/4 ohm 15" 800/1000 watt rms powered by a 1200.1 kicker mono block amp in 3.1 cubic ft box facing the side of the car with the port facing thru the car from the access port thru the truck. my uncle helped build the box, he said it its turned to 31 hz. but I feel it's lacking lower end bass. is there a better build box design that you suggest for that car?
+jody024 Thanks the box doesn't take up to much room it's actually aligned up perfectly to end where the struts are. I seen Steve Meades lexus isf an the way his is. Is close I use didn't cut the seat or have speaker facing the back seat. I was wondering if like a 4th order bandpass box could replace what I have. an if so could some one help with measurements since Brendon had the same car
+jody024 I did but I like the way Brendon an Alex do their clean installs an builds. an figured since Brendon has the same car an I bought my install from sonic they could give me some idea
is it better air flow for the amp to be under the seat?? i have mine mounted on top of my box and it only happens maybe on once of twice my amp turns off cuz of heat. My trunk has no insulation under the 6x9s and my amp sometimes gets hot and shuts off but once cool it'll turn back on.
love your vids bro, keep up the good work, got a question, right now I have an old Crossfire vr401 from the early 2000's, and I've been thinking to upgrade, what would be a good choice since I have 4 eight inch 500 watt speakers ( audiopipe ) and can you tell me any other info about my amp at all, because all I know is that its 200 watts rms at 4 ohms and 400 rms at 2 ohms and is that any good?
love your vids bro, keep up the good work, got a question, right now I have an old Crossfire vr401 from the early 2000's, and I've been thinking to upgrade, what would be a good choice since I have 4 eight inch 500 watt speakers ( audiopipe ) and can you tell me any other info about my amp at all, because all I know is that its 200 watts rms at 4 ohms and 400 rms at 2 ohms and is that any good?
love your vids bro, keep up the good work, got a question, right now I have an old Crossfire vr401 from the early 2000's, and I've been thinking to upgrade, what would be a good choice since I have 4 eight inch 500 watt speakers ( audiopipe ) and can you tell me any other info about my amp at all, because all I know is that its 200 watts rms at 4 ohms and 400 rms at 2 ohms and is that any good?
love the vids, good work you guys, i have an old Crossfire vr401 can you tell me any info on it and is it any good on 4 eighth inch audiopipe 500 watt each? and if not what amp would you recommend, also got 2 kicker 15" cvr and they are powered by a o2 2200.1 at 1800 watts rms, is that any good or do I need to upgrade my D class amp as well?
love the vids, good work you guys, i have an old Crossfire vr401 can you tell me any info on it and is it any good on 4 eighth inch audiopipe 500 watt each? and if not what amp would you recommend, also got 2 kicker 15" cvr and they are powered by a o2 2200.1 at 1800 watts rms, is that any good or do I need to upgrade my D class amp as well?
I never heard of mounting an amplifier under a seat. They get hot enough on their own. My question to Sonic Electronix is what happens when the heat for the feet is on. Gonna go into protect and shut off.
Roddy Da actually; you do have a choice, some companies make amps that are as small as a men's wallet, they can easily be hidden under the dashboard, specially when the dash is as big and deep as the dash of a frontier
not trying to start shit but perfect example of not to learn from the internet.....mounting under the seat is the worst...you should know that.....1. amp doesn't cool down enough under there. 2. water and snow or dirt from shoes gets tracked in the car damaging amp and mold. 3. passengers kick it or drop liquid on it.
