In this video I am sharing my take about the very basics when it comes to switches at any garden railroad. I talk about what´s best to ensure a safe operation and which swiches I use or have used in the past on my layouts.
I have never heard of the Theil switches, however with a brass Frog you will find a Microswitch under the throw device to switch power on the brass frog from one side to the other as the switch is thrown. You will also find the same thing on Aristocraft large radius switch's and you will find that they are very temperamental and can cause shorts if the microswitch does not throw completely. Very good video, I like the joke! See you down the rails.
I don´t think THIEL is very common in the US, by now several people have told me that they have never heard from this company. Here in Germany they are well known amongst the garden railroad community. I do know about the possibility to power the Frog via microswitch however I won´t do so until it becomes a problem in the future. All my locomotives are equipped with a capacitor, that should help for the most part. If i discover that small locomotives will run out of power when crossing the Frog I will install the microswitches.
I agree regarding LGB over years out side in snow, rain and sun with deer, squirrels, leaves, bugs the switches loosen and finally the plastic ties get brittle and parts no longer are in position. I have Aristocraft stainless steel track and switches that have done well. But plastic ties tend to get brittle as well. I bought 8 foot stainless rail and bent it using Train-Li track bender which works while the Aristocraft rail not track (pair of rails in ties) bends rail in slight spiral twist instead of flat curve like Train-Li track bender. I stagger rail joints to eliminate vertical and horizontal hills and valleys sectional track tends to form causing derailments. 6 to 8” or more separation between rail joints works well until switches. I use rail clamps and switches are mounted on flat plates of aluminum or other non rotting material. Switch joints to track have 4” or more support to prevent track from dropping or rising at the joint. Look up Terror Trestle on youtube to see my old track.
Thank´s for your comment! Plastic ties will at some point allways get brittle. But some hold up better than others. Using long pieces of track is key for a smooth opteration. I use THIEL flex track in 2,4m sections (8ft) and I also use the Train-Li track bender, it´s simply the best, I love it! Your trestle looks really good as well!
Great, welcome to my garden railroad project! New videos will show up soon, in fact today or tomorrow if I get around to finishing it. I appreciate you watching!
It would be good to note that the R5 LGB and R5 Aristocraft points are very different, and when you have two lines connecting it is common to have the dreaded 'wiggle' between connecting points (namely with the LGB points, whether it be 30, 22.5 or 15degree designs.
Really great video, Robert., enjoyed how you explored the details of radius and angle. I've had similar experience with manufacturers - but instead of Theil (although we have their flex track) we have TrainLine45 switches. Keep up the great content!
Thank you! I used lots of Thiel flex track in the past and I will use it on the new layout as well but this time in combination with Thiel switches. I have never used TrainLine45 track up to this point but I will look into their products at some point...
Hi Richard! Thank´s for whatching the video and subscribing! The company I am talking about is called THIEL. This is the Link to their web site ... thiel-gleis.com/en/home/about-us/
Unfortuately, thats not true. LGB was a stand alone brand until 2007. Since then it is owned by Märklin. Piko however is a totally different brand. Both have a long history in model railroading.
