Love the cats! And yep, I use 40:1 full synthetic with 95 gas here in New Zealand, with a little warm up time, a clean air filter and sharp chain, you're away laughing.
Awesome video Harvey, good info on the mix oil. For a man that sees the internals of all the engines you work on, I trust your opinion. Keep cranking out these great videos! Love them. ❤️
Ironhorse I love this channel. Keep up the great videos. You are one of four channels I watch while I drink my coffee in the morning. May God bless you.
I can tell you... I WORK FOR STIHL. AND IT WAS THE EPA THAT REQUIRED 50:1. THE SAWS DO NOT RUN SAFELY ON THIS MIX. THEYVE GOTTEN BETTER! BUT STILL NOT AS DURABLE AS 40:1 RUNS. THATS WHAT WE RUN. IVE ADVISED PROS TO SWITCH TO 40, AND THEY STARTED COMING IN FOR REPAIRS ALOT LESS FREQUENTLY. IN ANTIQUES I RUN 32:1. JUST TO BE SAFE. IT DOES NOT AFFECT POWER IN THR SLIGHTEST BITS ITS ALL IN YOUR HEAD. THATS ACCORDING TO OUR DYNO. YES WE HAVE A SMALL ENGINE DYNO AND I RAN AN MS440 ON THE DYNO IN THREE RUNS. ALL USING SAME AVIGAS AND ECHO REDARMOR OIL. IT RAN THE SAME ON 50, AS 40. ON 32 IT SHOWED A 0.06HP DROP AND NO TORQUE LOSS. Thats my 2 cents. I agree with ironhorse and love listening to old timers like him and others. I also do not like stihl oil mix because its dirty. I chose echo redarmor because its mafe by spectrum oil. Same as sta-mix and a few others. They make really good oil in my opinion.
No problem. I have also read that castor based oil mix combusts almost as well as gasoline does. So therefore the oil would add to the combustability of the mix. Echo redarmor is castor based which would make sense. However... i am not a chemist im a professional wrench spinner so i have no way to really verify castor oil is combustible outside of my dyno results. Lol
What I learned about castor based oil is from motocross bikes! If we were racing a moto it was a great oil that added power because the motor was running at top rpm’s all the time! And it burned clean! In an enduro where the rpm’s were much lower it would coke up! It was dirty! Sooo a saw that’s running at peak rpm’s all the time would be fine? Close?
Love your knowledge and information your opinions are based off real world situations and use of the saws thanks for your contributions to the chain saw hobby.
Manufacturers build productes just good enough to pass inspection , they do not want to produce something that's going to last . Thank God people such as this man as well as others think outside the box . Good video sir, I learn alot from you and trust your words . Thanks.
Great video! I have ran Klotz super techniplate for over three years now and haven’t had any issues. I trusted it to race dirt bikes so I carried it over to the saws and love it!
Great information Iron Horse. Can not wait for the next video. I will be going to the 40:1 mix soon, was running the 50:1, inspect my spark plugs as well. Hello to all in the community as well, got a solid 8” of snow overnight and now it’s rain. As we say in Michigan; if you don’t like the weather, wait 5 minutes and it will change. 😎👍
Right on Harvey. I use the Lucas 40:1 also. A ported saw turning high RPM’s needs lubrication. I recommend to my customers the Lucas and tell them to use the 40:1, but I like your videos. Keep’em coming.
thanks for video. and the tips!... 40-1 is what I grew up with, my step dad was a faller on Vancouver Island...never wrecked any tools over the years...
Hi harvey, thanks for the oil info. Those old McCullouch's are definitely a heavy saw. I also have a 1-53 & a 1-62 along with 2 pro mac 800 i got from the old man. Stay warm mate its nice and hot here in AUSTRALIA at the moment. Love the videos and keep up the good work harv.
Thanks for the info Harvey, know it a delicate topic with some guys but like you said do what you like it’s your saw/2 stroke. Great video and discussion.👍✊
I run 50:1 Stihl oil mixed with 87 pump gas in my ms261 & ms462. 462 doesn't have much time on it but my 261 has been used constantly for 3 years with zero issues mixed at 50:1 with stihl premium oil. Only 2 things I do that I truly feel is more important what oil you use is, buy the freshest gas possible, use it within 2 weeks! Lastly run the saw HARD! (Under load in the cut) dont idle it much and avoid small starts all the time. 261 has approximately 650-700 hours on it, check the original plug. Clean and tan brown. Exhaust port has zero carbon or sute. Freshest gas and use them like there meant to be used. Just sharing my personal experience. Great video, appreciate your insight into the wasp nest of mix oil's
@@MrBaptiste003 just the regular Stihl oil with regular gas. Burned 350 litres this year with zero issues. It’s a topic that is far overthought I find. If it works, leave it be.
@@MrBaptiste003I've had several saws in my lifetime, small climbing saws up to husky 2100s. I bought a little ms250 about 15 years ago. I have put nothing but stihl ultra in it since I got it. I have ran the hell out of that saw,mostly hardwoods, oak hickory, with some pine and soft maple, sweet gum etc. I've cleaned the screen once, checked it today, clean as new. Usually I run non ethanol high octane 91 gas, I think that's the key, I mix it a little heavy, probably about 45 to 1
I got a Stihl MS391 and got suckered into buying the multi pack of Stihl 2stroke oil and my brand new chainsaw was running like a wore out old junker, so after watching your video I started using Lucas and Motul and it runs great now. Thanks
I appreciate that you at least offered your opinion. Many avoid the issue altogether. Also some of the tips on how to judge the gas mix is helpful. Wet behind the ears and new subscriber on board.
Back when I logged in eastern MN the local saw shops were promoting 50:1 which I also ran at the time. However when the EPA saws with the limiting caps were introduced plus ethanol blended fuel some of the guys running these new saws would have them burn up if they happened to be in a hard pull when they ran out of fuel. I learned how to pop off those limiting caps and reset the carbs...also started blending 40:1 fuel and never had any problems.
In Stihl manuals, there were reportedly cases of cuts and jamming of the rings and the piston at 33: 1. Is there a risk of reduced machine life or carbon failure?
Harvey I agree with you on some of your oil recommendations as I run Bel Ray H1-R which is a fantastic oil. My opinion is that you should not run outboard motor oil in a chainsaw because that oil is designed for much cooler running temps as the outboards are water cooled. Thanks for the video on oils/mixes!
I run the same thing in all of my two cycle stuff - 80ml of Stihl Ultra, one ounce of Stabil, one gallon of PNE gas. It runs fine in all of my equipment. I have tried 40:1 but it is two messy on the exhaust side. I do break in new saws at about 40:1 but ween them off after several tanks. I generally run my saws a little rich for safety reasons. I run only fully synthetic oil in all my two and four cycle engines.
Good video Harvey. I ran Lucas oil at 40:1 for a long time. The only issue I had was even tuned right my saws ran a little wet out the exhaust. I’ve been running Echo red armor oil recently and it seems to run a lot cleaner at the same 40:1. Id having no issues running the Lucas though. It always ran clean as far as carbon deposits and port buildup
After observing how hap hazard the mixing of fuel is done by the tree guys I work with (who "don't need no stinkin measuring jug") I came to the conclusion that its probably best to let them stick to the 30:1 mix they use, at the risk of them getting lazy mixing a 40:1 that might end up more like 50:1 now and then
I fried the top end on my Husky 350 a few years ago while using big box department store oil. Put on new cylinder and piston did more big box oil and had a repeat of fried piston and rings. I would love to play with that old Mac and feel it running!
I’ve been cutting professionally (part-time) since 2014- Stihl saws and Amsoil, 100:1 mix ratio. Saws run great, no carbon, no scoring, clean mufflers, zero problems. Great channel!
@@imashbuttons1734 Yes, 100:1 on Amsoil Saber. I use a brushcutter that I bought in 1998, still runs strong even though the muffler rotted off. 100:1, keep the valve clearance adjusted, etc.
@@Chris-ry5vu yeah on Stihl trimmers they have valve covers on top and you have to get in there every so many hours and keep it in adjustment. Don’t feel stupid, I never knew they were there until it started running poorly and realized it needed some attention.
We always ran redline in the shifter karts KX125 in mine. 2 bottles to 5 gallons 25:1 spinning constantly at 14k more oil was needed. Don't use redline for anything that will sit very long, it doesn't have any rust inhibitors. Or at least 20 years ago. Yammalube was a very good oil also.
Older video (which is good, i learned alot!) I use 40 to 45 to 1 Royal Purple mix oil. Seems to do good for my 660. Big bore pop up piston cyber rings. (Now) had the non pop up in it since 2013 with split rings. Glad I just recently changed the piston though. For some reason all had been oiling well cylinder still nothing bad at all (very clean and smooth) piston top along exhaust edges have some small cracks with small pieces missing (small as needle points, you can't barely see them really) but yeah. Thanks for the video!😎
Thanks Ironhorse for sharing information and would love to see some tiger stripes on your 394 lol Be nice to see you and your brother cutting together again have great day
40:1 yes! Been running that for a number of years myself in my built and stock saws. Your confirmation is good to hear. All that time running Yamalube with no problem results. D rating, it's sticky sticky stuff and pricey. The only thing I don't like abut that oil is that it doesn't change the gas color enough to make me not have to wonder sometimes after a layoff if I added it or not.
In Stihl manuals, there were reportedly cases of cuts and jamming of the rings and the piston at 33: 1. Is there a risk of reduced machine life or carbon failure?
I totally agree with Harv on 40:1. The only thing I disagree with is running outboard engine oil ( marine or boat engines). It is formulated for water cooled engines and not air cooled engines that run hotter. I know my Husqvarna owners manual specifically states not to use outboard engine oil and to use an oil formulated for air cooled engines.
After much thought I started using a 42.5:1 ratio vs. 50:1 when I discovered that 50:1 is a mandated ratio. It’s pretty easy to mix 1 gallon of gas and with 3oz. oil measured in the Ratio-Rite cup.
Ireland here, always ran 40:1 in all of our saws (firewood, not logging) My neighbor has done the same, has an old partner saw from the 1970s, still going good.
Great video, I have always used 40:1 in all my 2 stroke equipment especially saws and weed eaters, I run 50:1 in blowers only because they don't run high enough rpm to clear themselves out very well
I run the Lucas Semi Synthetic at 50:1. It is cheap, and seems to do the job very well. It also has some cleaning properties. I tested it against Stihl Hp and hp ultra. The saw performed better with the Lucas.
I was running a synthetic oil in my saw, when I switched to Lucas I noticed right away how much better it ran. I really like the Lucas oil, good stuff.
I use ONLY Castrol POWER1 RACING 2T mixed 50:1 (2%) and runs perfectly for many years. No smoke, no carbon deposits, no power loss, perfect throttle response, clean spark plug... Highly recommended for any 2T engine.
@@JTRUTH2025 But I wouldn't do that because of losing power because of too much oil. Smokes alot. I recommend you 2% Castrol Power1 RACING 2T. Goes between 1% and 2%. I always mix that. No smoke, perfect throttle response, ultimate protection...
I run 32:1, like you run 40:1. I will probably start running less oil as I did think I was a little heavy and this video supports those thoughts. I have run between 20:1 to 50:1, used to recommend 32:1 to folks, like the home lites run, but again leaning your way. (Your video, you have the experience edge), Thanks for your comments (shared knowledge) and keep in mind folks, us rebuilder types do it different than an operator. (Break in period) When in doubt, r.f.m.. read the f,ing manual. Ah ha, hey, consider your variables and make a solid decision, 32:1, 40:1, you'll be ok, I like your comments on deburring, radiused skirt edges, and oil film coating. Thankyou sir. I believe McCullough recommends 40:1 if you use their oil, ah ha, folks give me oil so I use what I have with caution, folks leaving Alaska here, sometimes can not take the oils with them, product restriction, so I end up with a gallon of Ski-doo 2 stroke oil or what have you. Maybe a good mix is 32:1 break in and 40:1 ordinarily time. But Don't run it without oil!, by accident, 100% gas by mistake!, I keep a date and mix info tag on my gas cans. Thanks guys, I appreciate you all. Iron horse, Hello to your Beautiful family too. John.
40:1 is fine! I get the saw where it has a good idle and leave the hi jet a little rich for 1tank of gas! I use 3 heating and cooling cycles before I put it in the wood!
In Stihl manuals, there were reportedly cases of cuts and jamming of the rings and the piston at 33: 1. Is there a risk of reduced machine life or carbon failure?
Right on , I agree 100%, I gave up running the saw brand oil when I had a rod bearing fail . Same as you said 40:1 and I’ve been using maxima formula k2 , so far so good , I usually burn 5 gallons of mixed gas a week
In Stihl manuals, there were reportedly cases of cuts and jamming of the rings and the piston at 33: 1. Is there a risk of reduced machine life or carbon failure?
I cut timber and run my saws hard , I’ve been using this mix for a few years with no failures . I could see carbon build up being a problem if your saw idled a lot or you do a lot of slow speed operation . Just my opinion on what works for me
1.8 oz klotz blendzall to 1 gal of fuel has been my ratio for years , u r correct about oils over years , clean as a whistle and 20year old clean running .i also use a min of hi test or lately with fuel prices actually running renagade race fuel .
Great subject iron horse kinda a touchy subject in most people's eyes I personally run a healthy 40:1 ratio either redline. Luke's.blue marble marine. Any high quality mineral based or synthetic works well for me enjoy the vidos always have a great one Harvey always :)
I ran 38:1 in my older 40:1 huskys. In the chromed plated bores and the nikasil it’s still 38:1/40:1 full synthetic oil. In my castiron sleeved two strokes it’s a mix of Castor, synthetic oil.
Great video Harvey!. I have a few higher end saws that run 50:1. I was thinking of going to 32:1 or 40:1. I have a Poulan 3.3 cubes. I have owned it for 30years now. The piston on the exhaust side looks great & has a small amount of oil on it. Have a great weekend now!
Id just Run 50:1 with the regular Stihl oil. 50:1 isn't just for EPA, oils have come so far in the past 25 years. Honestly like comparing sugar to sugar cubes, end of the day they will all protect. I've never had in issue with stihl oil(made by Castrol here in Canada), I use a 462 and 261. What I use & My opinion, cheers
Great vid and it’s going to save some pistons I run more oil again as Oil’s cheap engines aren’t! so 25-1 full synthetic! not the low smoke bs but the husqvarna hp full synthetic is brilliant and on par with the best in the world period! and 98 octane premium non ethanol only! It works up here in qld Australia it’s often hot! and the timber is hard! and although not working with as many now days back in the workshop servicing and repairing all brands I’d developed an opinion and myself being a husqvarna and Stihl small engine mechanic I’d seen a dead piston or 2 and it’s usually it’s running dealer recommendation’s
That’s how I mix mine for my saws and my jiffy ice auger. Now that would be funny. Porting a jiffy ice auger lol. We’re getting 5-9 inches of snow tomorrow up here in Maine. Probably the same storm.
High quality oil makes a difference. Lots of good mix oil knowledge in the 2cycle motorcycle world. 50:1 is 2.56oz per gal, 40:1 is 3.2oz per gal, 1 tablespoon is 0.52 oz. Most caps on the small bottles of mix oil (2.6oz bottles) is about 1-2 tbs, so 1 bottle plus a cap in 1 gal of gas. "How Harve adjust carbs" awesome idea. Have fun with the snow we're supposed to be getting it later tonight/tomorrow (up in NH).
@@aaronmorgan488 I respectfully disagree. I am talking purely about the mathematical ratios, not whether a specific oil is suitable for running at that ratio. Straight 30w dinosaur motor oil: 2.6 oz in 1 gallon of fuel is a ratio of 50:1. But that will pretty much be not suitable to actually run in the saw at that ratio. I was simply pointing out how little it takes to go from 50:1 to 40:1. If a mix oil told me to use 5.2 oz in 1 gallon of fuel to get a 50:1 ratio, the only thing I can conclude is the mix oil has twice as many solvents in it than needed.
I like 40 to 1 also....been running the Poulan oil, but probably should run down to cycle shop and get the Yamalube or something equivalent. Thank You Harvey for enlightening me on what YOU use... Cheers !
Use to race dirt bikes and fine tuned those two strokes. Oddly enough, you can foul a plug gooey black without any oil in the fuel at all. Saw many new race bikes that would leak black goo out of the pipe and the owner would say "I need to cut back on oil." To no avail. IT IS NOT AMOUNT OF OIL IN THE FUEL MIX, it is the air to fuel ratio. I used to run 20:1 mix and adjusted the jetting to where the plug burned a light tan and tailpipe not oily but a light dry gray. Actually, less oil makes for richer condition(blacker plug and muffler) as the thinner mix allows more fuel in relation to amount of air. Have been explaining this for 40 years. Kind of like people saying "those two strokes have a powerband put in the engine" 40 years on that one also.
That Lucas semi synthetic 2 stroke oil is good stuff...i run it in all my 2 stroke engines...from saws and trimmers and even my 2 stroke polaris at 40:1 in them all... Buy it by the gallon Amazon
