What Plane Should I Use Stanley Numbering System 

TRAP, start to woodwork with hand planes, no number of hand planes are enough, for every job you encounter there is a plane that just nails it. So you buy hand planes that fit your mantra. Then you look at vintage etc. do I need to say more. My advice, and every D.F..K has the so called holy grail of planes lol. So my choice 4, 5, 6. low angle jack plane, block plane. These will do all you want and more. James is a good person he will do you no wrong in what to buy. cheers from Tasmania

Very interesting and I guess I made the right choice! I'm a n00b to woodworking... only had a "new" bailey #4, but wanted a 2nd longer plane for jointing, flattening, truing, etc. Found a pretty mint series15 #6 yesterday and bought it! Good price, esp for its' condition... waay cheaper than even a rusty #5-1/2! I was contemplating very hard bn a #5 and #6 (to pair with my #4)... but was worried a #5 would be too similar to the #4, and I'd maybe just use that all the time and never the #4 anymore. So, I think a #6 is a better difference... #4 for smoothing and general work, and a #6 for jointing, truing and flattening. It's kinda like camera prime lenses... you usually skip the next focal length, or double it... to minimize your kit weight, size and/or cost. eg: if I had a common 50mm lens (#4 plane), then another typical 35mm lens (#5 plane) is kinda similar.... so, I got a 24mm (#6) instead! Also, a 24mm is kinda similar to a 35mm too (I could always just easily crop the 24mm pic to get a 35mm fov). ...a nice "gap" in your minimal kit of lenses (or planes), while still being most versatile. Also... like you mentioned in video... #6 is like half the cost of a rare #5-1/2 (esp one that's not completely rusted), and a 1/3 the price of a #7! #6 is a wonderful thing! Not to mention it also has a wider blade than my #4 (same as a #5-1/2).

OMG!!! Awesome! You just answered a bunch of my questions; numbering, type of plane, type numbering, order, size, etc, etc, & etc.

Every time I see your shop and your tools I re-examine my life.

I’d like to highly recommend reading the submitted questions and the informative replies. There’s a treasure trove of additional good information to be had. Thanks for all your efforts James.

Hello James. I love your videos. The traditional woodworking style is very interesting to me, and you have inspired me to explore the possibility of getting into it. Your videos help give confidence to beginners as your videos are very informative and detailed. Love what you do. Keep it up. Thanks for posting.

Lol! I love the mini-rage at the beginning while talking about what planes are "needed". I feel the same way on forums when my fellow newbies ask entry level plane questions and get blasted with, "You absolutely NEED these 20 planes or you will suck forever!" Glad to see a pro preaching moderation and simplicity for once. Thanks a million Mr. Wright!

Great explanation! My dad had a similar collection so I grew up using these. Doing a lot of timber framing my favorite is the 10 1/2.

How can one ask do you need of course! We do and the best plane is the tuned sharp plane

That’s a great video James. It cleared up many of my questions about the Stanley numbering system but, on course, left many questions too. Obviously, as you pointed out, most of the Stanley numbers end up just being random numbers with no logic to how they fit into their tasks. Now I need to expand my collection. I could have used a jointer this past week.

Thank you for making the great content you do! Also you timed this video perfectly, I have been looking at buying another plane as I have a small block plane but I want a larger one to go with it.

Good summary and totally agree with you. I started out with the #4 and now, like you, have all of them (became a collector as well as a user). Now I've taken it even further in my sick OCD mind and have bought all of the L-N equivalents. Oh well. I do use many of them, though.

This is definitely a good summary of the topic - I wish I saw something like this when I was first starting out.

I spy with my eye a very special iron in your No. 4. Amazing steel and I had loved to use mine in my No. 5. Great cut straight from the factory and even better after I took it to my stones.

Excellent review of model numbers! I have a modern #4, #5 that's probably from the '50s or '60s, and a #8 from late 1800s. There are excellent resources online to help identify the eras. My favorite is the #5 as it was the most forgiving when I started.

Now I have something to look for when I go to antique malls. I do own one plane, a rather beat up Craftsman from probably the 70s. No number on it, but it looks about comparable to a #4. I'll need to spend some time on it and see if I can't tune it up a bit. Thanks for sharing!

Great review. Thank you for posting.

Very informative, thank you. 🙏

Enjoyed your video...I would like to see you do a video on how you sharpen the blade for each of these planes...mainly what planes you put a camber on the blade and how you put the camber on and the degree of camber. Thanks again!

Fun stuff. You’re right, you start with a #4 or #5 then add one more and before you know it your a plane collector!

Purchased a used Stanley/Bailey G12-005 (Made in England). Needs some clean up to be fully functional. Looking forward to using it on the entry table project

The ones i use the most are my type 17 4 1/2 love it because of the heavier casting my type16 no.6 which i have set up as a panel smoother (its my favorite) my type 11 no.7 it was a gift from chop with chris at the Atlanta woodworking show and i use it constantly. I am also lucky enough to have a stanley 40 1/2 that i bought for $20 and i love it. I upgraded all the blades to Hock 01 steel because its what i prefer. I have plenty of other but those are my main users

I just ordered my first plane off eBay. If it’s anything like bikes or boat motors, guitars, etc., having just one means I will maintain and use it better.

My Veritas low angle jointer is my favorite. I like the feel and weight. I use it on things I shouldn’t.

One has to collect them. Once you have them, and chisels, and good saws and learn to sharpen them, then you can become a woodworker. The love of the tool can get it all going. I love them all.

great video james i use a 5 4 and a block plane, also a few wooden body planes from Scottish shipbuilder

Very beautiful video... Compliment.

very informative video, thank you.

Love stanley planes , I have n 3 , 4 , 6 and looking to have n 5 or 7 . 🤔 After 2 years of tuning my planes you might full in love with specific one in my case n 3 😍 .

Need? No. Want? Yes. I think this is true for most of us...thanks James, that was informative.

Thanks James. This is straight forward and is obviously a very confusing topic for newbies like myself!

Wow so much to learn as I am getting into woodworking with hand tools! I almost prefer this type of instruction over the build videos. Thanks James

I have heard some used the no 1 as a block plane replacement during cold weather for ergonomics.

My first plane was a Craftsman (built by Stanley) #5 equivalent and I discovered that I really liked the length and width. So I bought a few more. Since then, I have turned all of them (I have 4 of them now) into scrub planes (I do a lot of milling and need fresh ones on hand regularly). I just bought two brand new planes, a WoodRiver #6 to help me with mounting lumber as it gets dry, and a WoodRiver #5 1/2. I really enjoy the 5 1/2 because I have large hands and it fits better, more comfortable to work with (sometimes for hours on end as I lose track of time). I plan on forgoing a #4 and going with a #4 1/2 for the same reason. Not trying to tell anyone I'm right and they're wrong, but simply what I've found works for me. P.S. I'm painting all of my old planes olive drab.

I started reconditioning my Dad's number 4. Nothing special about it with the exception of it was my Dad's. Then I reconditioned other block planes. Oy, then the money started to fly out the door with purchasing brand new US and Canadian made planes. Not upset in the least. Just poorer. My favorite plane; Veritas' shooting board plane. I make a ton of small mitered boxes. LOVE the shooting board with the Donkey Ear attachment. Hands down, my favorite specialty plane.

I recently discovered your channel and really enjoy the content. I haven’t seen all your videos yet but I was wondering if you could demonstrate a curved dado- like what you would see on a roll top desk.

thank you James

thank you, this was really helpful :-)

Love your content.

This is interesting, thanks for your explanation

I agree 100% with you in that these planes can be used for pretty much any job. Hey I just found out about a 1/2 hour ago that my two No 2 Stanley planes are a collectable tool and are pretty expensive, shucks I found one at our local garbage dump and I got the other one at a garage sale for 2 dollars. I collect, restore and use antique and vintage tools for all my projects and jobs. Last week while garage saleing I got a cast aluminum Cummins 1/4 inch drill and a cast aluminum Porter Cable skilsaw, both work perfect. They sure don't make tools like they once did, shucks today when a tool fails for any reason, most guys just chuck them away and buy another cheap chinese one.

Now that I'm a "plane collector", here's my minimum list, 1 block plane for fine work 1 block plane for home improvement 1 junk block plane for the 3 year old to use 1 #4 or #5 set for smoothing 1 #4 or #5 set for roughing 1 #6, #7, or #8 for jointing and bench flattening And a rabbet plane is nice now and then...

Thanks for sharing that

Like the video a lot, I have quite a lot of planes, love them all, just wondering if you could do a video on how to sharpen the knicker /spur, that's on the 50, 45, 55, 78, please, and as I have great difficulty in getting them sharp

I have some specialty planes but when it comes to metal body bench planes ... I just have 3 grizzly hand planes that equate to a #4, #5 & #7 ... those 3 can do 99% of what I need. Loads of great info!!

Thanks again James. I've got the whole series in corrugated. (Started with a couple inherited). For anyone wanting to really dive into Stanley numbers, look up a site called "Patrick's blood and gore". He's got the whole system including comments about each one. There's a LOT of Stanley planes

Z Just for information, I was an indentured carpenter and joiner apprentice in the early 1970's in the UK. The tools we had to provide were a block plane, a 4 ½ smoother and a 5 ½ jack. I never saw the even numbers until I came to the US.

Muy buena colección de lo mejor

Wow! So helpful!

Thanks for that video im just starting to get into hand tools. I got and restored or reworked a Bailey no5 and a stanley rule level & co no35 and I had a blast learning about them and there history and getting a amazing finished product I do have a question though one I have been digging for a answer for a long time I got into spoon carving and can't find a good reliable long lasting finish that can stand up to heat with stiring a pot of soup I use butcher block oil and after a couple uses and washing's it goes right out I would like to make and sell them but I can't do that if they don't have a reliable finish I hope you can help or point me in a good direction thanks keep up the great videos

What about vintage Record planes? A lot of them can be had for great prices and I’ve seen some modeled after Preston as well as Stanley.

I wasn't paying attention to part of the video but all I heard was type 1 and I thought I was a plane for a second of diabetus 🤣

How about a draw knife vs a scrub plane? Really enjoy your channel.

I'm no smarter than before I watched this, but still found it interesting. Thanks for making this. I'm not quite ready to start using planes.

I own a no5 and 5 1/2 which i use regularly. If you only need one, buy a 5 or 5 1/2

Have a #4 and a block need one of the long ones in my life

Oh no - you spelt my name wrong at 0:39 - lol. I love these planes and have recently bought a job lot of 23 (3, 4, 5, 51/2 only one from US of A though!) for restoration and use. Also have just got a 6 and a 7. You have a great collection. Love your videos.

The laugh and then the cut lol. I can only assume you cut out the crying.

Excellent once again. One Q: when carving a new tote, which way should the grain of the wood be traveling? Should it be parallel with the direction of force, should it go vertical and parallel to the bolt holding the tote to the shoe, or should it be somewhere in between? what is your take on it? Thanks again, James.

I’m a big fan of the millers falls planes. They seem on average a little heavier than the baileys

I just started woodworking, and I mostly make dining tables, which are 4 2x10’s put together. I try to make sure they are all level when I glue them together, but that doesn’t always work out. Which plane do you think would be best for leveling that out?

Nice video! Would you recommend a hand plane to renovate a parquet floor?

confusing Stanley made crystal clear until numbers became quarters and halves, but well done, and why do some planes have grooves in the bottom plate?

What are your thoughts in "transitional" planes? I have a jointer and a jack plane of the style, and I'm not sure if I'm getting the most out of my work using them.

I only use 3 planes: a #4, a blockplane and a 50 cm long jointer

Thanks for the info!! I just picked up a large jack plane labelled "No 5A" and I have no clue what manufacturer made it... That's the only label on the toe of the plane and there is nothing on the rest of it! Hoping someone in the comments may know a tad more, but I am stumped, my dudes!

What brand is your iron on the No.4 with rounded top? I know it doesn't affect it's actual use, but it still stinks that your 5¼ has a hang-hole. Nice collection and explanation. For right now, I have a 3 (unfortunately the sole is cracked and the tote and knob are broken on this one), 4, 5, 6, 7, and a 8. The quarter and half sizes are very rare around my area so people charge a crazy amount for them. 😞 Keep up the great work!

The Stanley five and a quarter. Is it labeled 5-14? That would be five minus a quarter. Or, 4.75. (I read that somewhere, and don't remember where.) steve

Stanly loved to count, woodbyright hate to spell check

I inherited a #4, found/restored a #7, and have 2 block planes (smooth and crunchy). I have no need for more tools ... just better technique. Thanks for the $0.02.

Very informative info just what I needed as an old newbie. I notice you have a lot of Blue Stanleys in your line up. I am wanting to get a 4 and 5 but have read the Blue painted Stanley USA made ones are just not as good as the old pre 1960's planes. Do think that is true or is there a bit of plain old plane snoberry? :) Some of my guitar bretheren who think a 1960's Gibson ES330 is so much better than a 70's or 80's or new production which IMO and years of guitar experience is not always true, some are some aren't. Many new production guitars today are even better than a lot of older vintage. Anyway, back to planes I want a 4 and 5 to actually use. Your advice please on Blue vs Black

Do you need them all? Yes, yes I do.

Which one (by preference) would you start with first if you were starting out?

Nice 5 1/2...

My first plane funnily was a Stanley No. 4 1/2 before I got a Record No. 4

I know it;s hard, but please try to document what you can. 100 years from now someone will see your video and appreciate the effort.

Hello, I have a Stanley numbered "C74 1/2" - 14 in. long 2 1/2in. wide ! Wondering where's this one fit ?? Also, will be using my old entrylevel Stanley no 4 for my next Scrub Plane, so should I select another number 4 for my ForePlane or Am I better to select a number 5 for a ForePlane ? Many thanks, Robert

Thanks for your videos leaned alot. I have a butcher block countertop. I sanded it stained it few years back made a big mess with all the dust though out the house. I believe its oak wood not sure how to tell. But if i where to do a #5 plank and a sanding block & paper by hand would that be a option? I also have a fairly long half inch wide crack behind my sink in the wood from the water over the years. Whats the best way you'd recommend repairing that. Thanks again for vidoes.

OK I got a Stanley #5. I was wondering how do I tell what type it is? And it’s missing the blade and all the components that go to the blade on my Stanley #5, where can I get the replacement parts for it?

Great video James! I got a quick question if someone can help me.. I got on my hand an old Rapier 700 (just like a Stanley 7) and I'm in the journey of restoring it... the blade is super used so Im looking for a new one but from where I am (Chile) I can't find replacement for a No 7, so.. the question is, can I use for example a No. 5 blade on a No. 7???

Witch is better for smoothing bevel up or down smoothing plane

I use a No. 4-1/2 unless I'm using a No. 5 or No. 6, but that's only during the 6th Wednesday of the month when a witch flies across the full moon on Valentine's Day. But if it's not a full moon then I go to the No. 8 for 4" pieces of 1/2" thick balsa, except when...

Hello! What does the 4 1/2, 5 1/2 and the 5 1/4 used for?

James, great info here. I have recently taken ownership of my grandfather's Stanley #3 and #5 planes. I am new to woodworking all together and honestly, I am a power tool guy. I would like to get into making boxes. Oh yeah, the question, can I use either of these two planes in a shooting board for miters? What would be the best plane for that application? Can I just make my #3 a bevel up plane. Thanks and again, great info in this video. Even though I am a power tool guy, I just subscribed.

Great topic James! rr Normandy

I built my first wooden plane last year, then another and another and another, am I a plane builder now? I use a Stanley block plane, a wooden #5 a wooden #7 and a wooden rebate plane. They can do everything I need, but I'm going to build a wooden #3 next for smoothing duties.

I’d highly recommend the harbor freight #33. Hahahaha

Nice overview of the different plane types. I'm waiting for one of the "my shop teacher said you should never lay your plane blade-down on the workbench!" zealots to chime in, though they may have fainted dead away once they saw the opening shot of the video.

I bought a "Great Neck" 8 planer, I don't know much about planers

I needed this. Great video, time to head to eBay!

I have a #7 and #8 and want to sell one of them. Which would you sell?

James you rascal, there is no such thing as a No. 53. But you already knew that right? I had to look it up in my Stanley Tool Guide by John Walter. Unless I misheard you and you said No. 63. In that case there is a No.63 Low Angle Block Plane. I also noticed that the iron on your No. 4 has a rounded over top. I've never seen that on a Bailey before. My guess is that it is an after market replacement blade. While we're at it, that iron on your No. 5 is square on top. I have never seen that before. I'm guessing after market as well. That's why I enjoy collecting planes. It's the attention to detail. Stanley made a lot of planes and it's probably next to impossible to have an example of all of them. Unless you're John Walter. That guy is the ultimate authority on Stanley tools. I'm a member of M-WTCA and hope to meet you someday at one of our meetings.

Difference between Bedford and Bailey?

I scored an Ohio Tool Company # 5 1/2 today. What a find?

Why your Stanley planes is blue like a Record?

James, is it just coincidence or does it seem like you prefer prewar planes.

are there numbers on this planes?

Here's a good reference for the model numbers of Stanley planes: homepages.sover.net/~nichael/nlc-wood/stanref-num.html

The millers falls lineup would go.. 7,8,9,10,11,14,15,18,22,24

This topic is calling out for the compilation of an infographic/table indicating sole length, width, and cutter width (metric and imperial) correlated to the Stanley Numbering system for bench planes. Oh, wait. Look over here (for a bit of that data), virginiatoolworks.com/tools/stanley-planes/stanley-bench-plane-chart/