What's Inside Fake M12 Batteries 

watching a Milwaukee being disassembled by a Dewalt....wars have been started over less

One thing I found with some knock off 18v Makita batteries was that they didn't have any balancing circuitry. Definitely a fire hazard because li-ion doesn't handle charging in series very well.

The higher discharge rate on the aftermarket 6ah battery is a huge plus. You'll get more cycles out of that battery vs the Milwaukee 6ah. Heat kills batteries, and lithium ion is so much more sensitive to that than the old nicads we grew up using. The slight discrepancy in capacity between the two is because higher discharge rate requires thicker materials for carrying current. There's only so much "oof-da" you can fit in a can, so there's always a trade off between capacity and discharge rate, even with the highest quality components. Love the channel btw and keep up the good work.

I have 4 m12 batteries. 2 brand-name, 2 generic. I have 2 that hold a charge and have full power. Of the other two, the Milwaukee one doesn't run full power but will hold a charge. The bad off-brand will run at a higher amps, but only for about 5 minutes. (Just now realizing that this reads like a math problem from a textbook 😂)

I would say the knockoff batteries are probably good for some of those miscellaneous accessories, such work lights, speakers, etc. Stuff that you don't really need that high discharge rate for and just need something with capacity for run time.

Those arrow keys are bugging me so much 😂😂

Ive had really good luck with a brand called PowersExtra and if by chance i get a bad one they are really good at replacing it.

I bought 2 DB201 (Dewilt) knockoffs from Amazon. They were "rated" 20v/6.0Ah (yeah right!). I knew they were probably NOT what the label and ad stated, and I was right. One of them, two of the cells shorted and would not charge or hold a charge. (figures). SO apart it came! I found 10 CR18650/1SP batteries in 5S/2P for the 20V. BUT they were ONLY 1.5Ah. This was printed on the cells! So the real "capacity" was ONLY 3.0Ah! NOT 6Ah... Yet ANOTHER chinese fake!

Dude you should be a voice actor, your voice would be perfect in so many roles. With or without the cold.

I use both fake and real, and you basically nailed it, you can be lucky or unlucky with the fake ones. I have some fake batteries that perform the same as originals, others go flat straight away. The real ones always good - you pays your money you take your choice. I have never had good fake Dewalt only good fake Milwaukee batteries, for some reason.

Perfect breakdown. We aren’t curing cancer here and since you have all your fingers and no long thumb nails you get 10 points. I will have to deduct 2 points for the simple reason that no one is perfect!! Carry on, I will be in the area all day.

You can get battery chargers that you could put those raw cells in that would tell you the actual capacity and max amps. But that would require that you actually desolder the cells from the pack, and the charger/tester isn't super cheap. But if you're interested in pursuing this further, that's probably the way to go.

As it is most of the time with fake stuff, the reason that someone says they're great and someone says they're crap, is because some of them are crap and some of them are great, and most people has a sample of just a few, or just one. Its always a gamble buying fake stuff from cheap chinese shops, doubly so with batteries. you might get a good one you might get a bad one. but even worse you can get one that seems good and works good for months before it burns your house down.

The waitly batteries are actually pretty decent for the money. Project farm did a great video on them and they tested the closest to the OEM batteries used.

11:10 You couldn't be more wrong. It is incredibly common for cells to be mislabeled. They are very low quality cells that have a fake wrap on them with fake specifications. You will NEVER get 500 charge cycles out of them and they can catch fire. That is the real risk. Though there isn't nearly as much energy in these cells as an ebike battery, the fire is still very hot and energetic enough to catch other things on fire. Putting the battery fire out is near impossible. I charge mine in an old frying pan and never leave them plugged in when I am not around. That way if they catch fire, I can grab the pan and run outside.

The problem with the fakes is that they're usually using cells recycled from old laptop batteries, etc, and some could be on their last few cycles.

I have been using a Milwaukee Toughshell jacket for 3 seasons now, it came with one 2.0 M12 battery that works fine. Bought two knock off 2.5 M12's for $40 CAD. Up here at the time they were asking $80 CAD for one replacement 2.0 M12 original. Must have got lucky because my knock offs are holding up. They actually last a bit longer than the OG battery (because they are more Mah). Good luck to everyone shopping.

The Waitley high capacity batteries are a good value for use with lights and such. Others have found that they do seem to have about the same amp hours as the real Milwaukee. Definitely not the best to use with your main tools. Good video.

I think general rule with "genuine" vs. "third party" is that genuine is always better 1:1, but other compatible batteries are usually 75% as good. So math is simple - if you can get 3x third party batteries for the same price as single original, then you will be better off. As well in my experience I have both something like 6AH battery for price of 3AH and if our math still applies then the outcome is quite obvious. In short as long as "fake" batteries are significantly cheaper, they usually represents good value.

You're not ulgy, y'ueor hnasmeo

That was my little bit of experience with the knockoff Milwaukee 3ah, it seemed to go the distance, but one drop on the floor and the casement broke between the top and bottom packs. For the proce difference, I'd be fine buying the cheap 1.5 packs, but lesson learned on the bigger ones, became i know that my tools will take tumbles, so the genuine seems like its worth the money.

Big Clive meets Big Funk

Dude I started smoking again just so I can sound like you! You rock!

The circuitry is usually for battery balancing. Nice vid!

I wouldn't go as far as calling them knockoffs and fakes. Do they claim to be original Milwaukee or state that on their case? No. These are replacements. While OEM batteries are quality products they are also expensive (sometimes overpriced). There are hundreds of manufacturers producing replacement batteries, and not all of them are equal. Note that I'm not talking about batteries that ARE fake, ie. have Milwaukee logo on them despite not being original. Some make crap, to make quick buck and disappear, but there are legitimate manufacturers too, producing quality replacements at a fraction of price. If you buy cheapest pack, you pretty much get what you paid for, cheapest (often faking capacity) cells in crappy plastic case. But if you go around middle price region, you can get some nicely made batteries, with realistic specifications. Sometimes even two for the price of one OEM. I know it's hard to distinguish between them, but you may find lots of information on technical forums (Customer Reviews on Amazon is not one of them). Same goes for other such products, like cell phones or laptops. It's pretty much like in car industry, you can have crap and you can buy quality parts, sometimes even from the same factory as OEM. For example Behr parts are often used for first assembly by BMW, and they have both BMW and Behr logos on them. If you buy parts from Behr directly, you get parts that are cheaper, because they don't have BMW logo on them, but are of same quality.

Very good explanation of this, if you were handy soldering you could probably rebuild using new cells but as you mentioned, they sell knock off cells anyway, if like you and you depend on the tool you could get whichever ones you want. At the end of the day it's what you rely on and if you can claim stuff back through taxes, do what you feel. Nice video 👍

personally i dont like cheap out on batteries just because you never know if they matched cells and/or balance the cells at all which both is risking them going up in flames, i just rather spend 50% more than risking buring down everything

The fake battery packs also tend not to have the overcharge protection that keeps them from melting down if you leave them on the charger

8 minutes in and its obvious that the knock offs are resleeved. Very curious if they are reclaimed/refurbished or just from a cheap manufacturer.. Edit ok maybe assumptions were made lol

no worries, your explanations were very good...i actually learned a bit

I'm in the home gamer space with the ryobi tools, but have found it helps to just dig through reviews and find ones that seem like people say they last as long, or nearly as long as the real ones. You'll hear about it on the ones that are trash. For what it's worth, for the people that hate on ryobi, My 20+ year old tools all still work as good as they did new. They probably won't hold up as well if you like to use your drill as a hammer, but if you use it as a drill or a saw as a saw, they last just as long as any of the pro-summer brands. The 20 year old drills got used hard the first 5 years of their life, driving 3 inch drywall screws and pulling them back out building sets for stage plays back in the days before 1/4" impacts were common place.

What's inside?.... I'll say "Disappointment."

I have used both my Milwaukee 4AH M12 packs and the 5AH HO packs in my M12 impact guns Abe I’ve got to say the difference in performance is substantial. I actually took all my 4AH batteries home and replaced them with the 5AH packs.

0:00 What's inside fake m12 batteries? FIRE. That's what's inside. FIRE! Is your house/garage/worktruck worth the 100 bucks you save?

"Heavy's good! Heavy's reliable!" Boris The Bullet Dodger! I see you too are a man of good taste, watching BigClive I mean! I can't say much about the knock off M12 batteries, as I only have 2 genuine M12 batteries that I use in a 3/8 impact gun and a 1/2 right angle impact. I have had good luck with knock off M18 batteries from a company called PowerExtra, on Amazon. I got 2 6Ah batteries for $93CAD, and have been using them in my high torque 1/2 drive impact, 5" grinder, and a compact drill/driver set, all of which are brushless. They have done well for over a year now. That said, there is nothing like an authentic M18 8Ah in the grinder, and a 12Ah in the big impact! Expensive as fuck, but sure lasts a long time, and gobs of torque! Oh, I should also mention I used the knock off 6Ah batteries in the Milwaukee chainsaw. Did not go well! Great for the drill driver set though. Have a great day, Sir! And God Bless! o7

I always buy my things based upon who I can sue if something goes wrong

I always enjoy a van/truck tour. Interesting to see other guy’s setups.

This video reminds me of AvE's videos. You even got the same mat that he uses.

ive had good luck with the knockoff m12 batteries. but i also expect them to fail every time i use them lol. i did have bad luck with a brand new m12 6.0 that had the lead to the lower cells break after light use. but for the 50 i spent on 4 knockoffs if one last 6 months i am cool with my purchase. i abuse most my lower amp hour m12s they make good soft hammers lmao i have considered purchasing individual cells and the knock off shells and making my own.

It would be nice if you could take a closer look at the circuitry. See if both balance charge the cells. Cheap batteries might not have a BMS and just have over discharge protection and temp control.

dont even need a video comparing fake vs real batteries. The knockoff batteries are FLAT OUT DANGEROUS AND A LIABILITY!!. Wife removed one off of the charger to plug into the string trimmer. Battery exploded in her hand and burned her face (luckily was wearing gloves and glasses already so she was luckily alright ) but then the battery burned for over an hour!!!! It would calm down and a minute or so later it would sound like a jet taking off, and then BOOOOOM with nasty smoke and a HUGE flame while it blew battery cells 20 feet or so on fure until it calmed down and repeated that until all 10 cells were dead...... NEVER AGAIN WILL I USE A CHINESE KNOCKOFF BATTERY

Nothing makes me feel more manly than getting home from work covered in cuts and burns, cracking open a beer and watching this legend tear into tools. 💪 Edit: The only downside is the bit about burning down your Gaff 🏠... I charge my batteries at work though so I'm getting me some cheap ones 😁

It's not "fake" or "counterfeit" unless it is fraudulently labeled as being a Milwaukee product. All I have seen are compatible M12 products. There is nothing wrong or illegit about making and selling a compatible product.

The BMS/thermal protection is what worries me with knock offs. A replacement garage is far more expensive than the price difference lol

If I have low draw tools that I'm not beating up and I want to keep a battery in them like flashlights or maybe a quarter inch impact things like that knockoffs aren't bad, but those that work in construction and maybe dropping or being really hard on their batteries / high empire draw tools I'm sure it's not worth the money because you'd be burning through them in the warranties worth it to have on the name brand, for the most part if you can catch really good deals through Lowe's or Home Depot on their sales it's just best to get the name brand batteries

I’m just a DIY guy, but I got two 4ah batteries and a fast charger from Kobalt for $63 plus tax. The platform has the tools I need and I love the clearance deals I can get on their tools.

Ive used waitley for a few years in my drill and driver. Based on testing over at project farm. No complaints.

You should weigh the same battery charged vs not charged, you will be shocked with what you find out.

I picked up a suspiciously cheap M12/6.0 off ebay fully expecting it to be a counterfeit (which it was), but it's VERY well done and I wasn't totally sure if it was maybe a "fell off the truck" retail pack until I opened it up and saw the usual blue-sleeved generic cells. It was in a very convincing retail bubble pack and the only outward sign it was fake was the label stamping on the back of the pack didn't have quite the right font for "M12", it looks like it was squished a tiny bit, and has slightly blurry edges versus the consistent sharpness of the real stamping. I kinda think it would pass well enough to be accepted as a return at a retail store on a busy day, so watch out...if it doesn't look quite right it's more likely a fake than just a variance in production. I would be livid if I paid ~$180 at HD for a fakie with junk cells that costs $35. I haven't put it through any real use yet and I've never had good luck with those blue cells performing anywhere close to the label spec, but given the price I could buy legit cells from a legit supplier to rebuild the pack and it'd still cost less than half of what big red charges. I might see if I can source just the plastics from one of the usual CN suppliers and build a grip of my own packs, guessing the little BMS modules are also something that can be found loose on the CN sites.

I bought a pair of the Amazon 9.0AH batteries once, one of them had no chooch but I noticed they had less power by far on my M12 fuel 1/2" drill with a M12 6.0AH. I returned them and haven't been back. Use the knockoff batteries if you want but real batteries aren't that expensive if you shop for them. Home Depot site always has some sort of deal on them.

So, I have both the M18 and M12 line up. My M12 lineup is my side work go to setup - I use both knock off AND genuine M12 batteries - decides to try out a set (2) of a random KO brand on Amazon. Got the 4ah and have had both for two years now, never an issue, work as intended. I hear good and bad on both KO’s and genuine failing - they’re batteries, both use same tech - the KO most likely use recycled cells and that’s why they’re so damn cheap. Just bought a KO 9ah (largest M12 is 6ah LOL) so curious what this KO 9ah is actually drawing but have used it on my M12’s - 1/2” drive impact, Hackzall, oscillating multi tool, hammer drill driver, my inflater and my 1/4” impact driver - it def feels much more powerful then the 6ah, but my 6ah was used, passed down from my uncle and only holds 3 bars when fully charged. I mean for the price, $24 on Amazon, the 9ah KO is totally worth it. The set (2) of the 4ah were $27. So, honestly I would rather go through a bunch of used batteries then spend what Milwaukee charges for their damn batteries!!!

Aye... I 'inherited' a pile of Einhell stuff, drill, batteries, couple of chargers, (I know, a bit crappy but I just use it around the gaff, and the wife can play with it and doesn't matter if she breaks it...). Turns out one of the 4 amp batteries is a Chinese knock off, but I need to say, it works great, plenty of grunt and usage time... That said, wouldn't leave the fucker charging unattended... 😂... 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

CLICKBAIT. There weres no samsung galaxy m12 batteries in the video. Unsubbed.. downvoted.. 😡😡😡😡😡😡😡😡😆😆 no but seriously.. I can’t even turn an eye to knock off batteries.. I know how terrible they are.. so I don’t even waste the energy

Well done on explaining things. 2 things 1 cycle? What standard? LG and other name brand cells will be specified DOD 1000 Cycle x,xxx mah . This means that after 1000 cycles it will have the specified mah capacity. 1 cycle is specified as : start full discharge at rated ( old tech was 3C『capacity 』discharge) to 20% charge to 80%. Complete 1 cycle. Theas with 25A is much higher tech at 8.3C discharge rating. 2) One reason the DOD cycle excludes the top ND bottom 20% of the batteries "tank" is that it causes damage expressed as heat. This raised internal heat increases the rate at witch capacity is lost. Storage at 100% is not recommended long turm. I'm betting you have sufficient turnover to not have this sitting too long they are working man's batteries after all.

Great video. I know the Samsung cells are very reliable (been using them for years). I personally wouldn’t cheap out on batteries as I use the stubby impacts (lots of vibration). Not sure how they would hold up. I wouldn’t want 6x18650 cells to self destruct in my hand.

I have Milwaukee M12 and M18 tools that I use continuously for kitchen demo/cabinet installation. After about 6 years of reasonably hard use most of my batteries are wearing out. So I tried the “knockoffs” and yes they work. Rather well in the beginning but after about a year or so they (fakes/knockoffs) are definitely not holding their charge as well as they used to. They also heat up faster with high power draw tools like my 12v circular saw. They are definitely lower quality than the Milwaukee branded ones, and they fall off (discharge) faster than the real ones, but they do work well enough. Just not as long. TLDR; you get what you pay for. The fakes have about 75% of the output of the real ones at less than half the price. Some are at 1/3 of the price. In low draw tools they are awesome. In high draw tools they suck. I’ve been very happy with the fakes but still buy the Milwaukee ones for the high demand tools. Choose and use wisely to save money where you can, but spend more to get the performance you need. Both have their advantages.

"I'm getting all scientific & all but basically the more stuff they jam into it, the higher the capacity....". Lol, I'm glad you pointed out your gravitation toward "techspeak".i feel less self conscious for having to draw out a diagram to translate. 😁😁😁 I do feel a bit sheepish, however, amidst all these comments that don't mention ryobi at all, in admitting to using them almost exclusively, even upgrading to the 4 & 6 ah batts & been perfectly satisfied w the results. But I'm curious if anyone has any experience w them & can gimme their opinion, my having no basis of comparison.

I've been playing with all manner of batteries for over 40 years now, and things have not changed all that much. Back in the day I did a bit of rebuilding and repacking of battery packs. . SO, always where and always will be good and not so good aftermarket battery packs. . Back in the day of NiCad and MiMh battery packs there where reputable companies that sold aftermarket battery packs that where higher performing and better quality than OEM, built on name brand cells. Lithium batteries and the way the market works now has changed things a little bit, BUT, it remains, there are reputable and not so reputable manufacturers of aftermarket battery packs. The better quality battery packs will be found with specialist battery suppliers, that have a name and a reputation to support.

1000 or 300 cycles is not the cycling capacity, it's only the cycles they tested to. Granted the no name will likely yield less cycles, but this number isn't really a comparison. They usually say something like "no more than 20% degradation at 300 cycles". This isn't the end of the battery, just what they test to. BAK batteries aren't tier 1 or 2, but close. They (BAK) have been used in IBM laptops, etc. They are a name brand vs the cheesy 1.3Ah batteries.

20 v OEM Battery 1= 98.00 Amazon knockoff 4 for 80.00 I use the KO since even if they last one day they have paid for them selves and most last me 6mo to a year and I use the heavily on a daily basis rough in in plumbing in homes and commercial

only 18 down votes, including mine. The "let us discover ... together" is not always a good approach. The sensing wire, not on some knockouts, seemed a guess. I jumped and exited. Not written to hurt, yet 20 minutes when 10 would have been better .... I did bail so this is skewed, unfairly, but I could not sit through more.

If AvE still did quality BOLTR content, this is what it might look like. Instead he's showing a crusty, filthy, cluttered bench and tools nobody gives a single hoot about, for the most part.

China makes junk lithium batteries. Korea(Samsung) and Japan make the best lith batteries. Of all the lith batts I have acquired from Asia, only the Chinese batteries have spontaneously caught on fire sitting on my bench, brand new.

15:32 I can tell you right now, those specs are a LIE. Search google for a 3000mah cell with a 25 amp sustained discharge limit. You won't find a single one. The Samsung battery is the only one I have ever heard of and it has a lower capacity. The discharge capability is why it has such a high amp rating. But even with the Samsung, which is a very good cell, the voltage will sag by A LOT if you get anywhere near the 25amp discharge rate.

This is great information for a pro, but misleading for the weekend warriors. I'm a pro, 3rd generation carpenter and use Dewalt (mostly). So when it was time to take my father in law out to buy himself so power tools, I knew there was only one place to take him....Harbor Frieght of course. For him to buy Dewalt would be like my mom buying a Lamborghini.

A "verse" is section of certain types of literature, like poetry or song lyrics. 'Versus" is a word that signifies comparison or opposition. You're comparing one kind of battery VERSUS another... unless you're talking about all those batteries in the Bible, John chapter 12 verse 77.

FYI, I don't own Milwaukee but I do own rigid (same Corp) and I found the home Depot website will sell batteries at super low prices compared to shipping inside the store. Legit serialized and warranted batteries shipped to your home for free. I bout two 4 hour batteries for a hundred bucks, they sold two 6 hour batteries for 150. You got to be careful tho, because they will sell two batteries for a hundred, but they will also sell 1 battery for a hundred, same size. I'm sure the home Depot site has similar deals for Milwaukee tools and batteries. Be smart

You explained that perfectly. Well done sir, you get what you pay for

Though the genuine Milwaukee batteries are expensive, especially the big ones like the 12amp m18, I prefer to stick with them as (like you said) their performance and construction is reliable. I also don’t want to risk my tools and chargers with knock off batteries, if the power spikes and they damage the motor or catch on fire I’m sure Milwaukee has a way to know that you used unapproved batteries and therefore would deny any warranty claim, Milwaukee might not even let you pay them to fix the tool. I know how my Milwaukee batteries hold up to extreme cold and heat, both in storage and in use, but it’s a gamble how the knock offs will perform especially since you can’t rely on them using the same internals as the last one you bought from them! I run Milwaukee and Dewalt and have been quite happy with their performance and longevity and have never had a problem with my tools due to batteries so, regardless of savings I will not put an off brand battery in my tools and chargers.

Well why didn't they just toss in some of them 10,000,000 Mah Trustfire cells :P I'd deffinatly tell you to test those cells and see how close to the spec sheet the knock-off ones are. Odds are, they'er low quality clones of even those....

So it's just rechargeable batteries inside them? Looks like them batteries you buy for vapes. I never knew that was what's inside wow. Wonder whats in my large dewalt 36v battery

I bought a chinese 3ah battery for a dewalt from the flea market, and it lasted me 3 years. For 45 bucks, not bad, but then I got a milwaukee sawzall and m18 impact driver, and I like the feel, and power better than the dewalt. I honestly think both are great brands, they both have good and crap products.

How to gauge if dummies work for Milwaukees cell assembly company . they color coded the batteries based on what they are to be used on AND they had to mark 5 not once but TWICE they’ve used the correct amount for the stack

I have Fake m12s and have never noticed a difference in performance. I also have a fake dewalt battery. It mostly comes down to reading reviews and possibly getting lucky. When you can buy any where from 3 to 5 times as many batteries compared to the genuine one. Why not take the risk?

Funk and TTC should get together and go bowling.

tv too high

My bro invested into the Milwaukee m12 ecosystem. The tools are genuinely impressive. The batteries on the other hand... Those stupid little plastic clips that hold the batteries in will break after about 5 uses in any kind of tool that puts any impact on them. They'll still work... Until you throw them across the room out of frustration because they keep disconnecting.

You pointed out one major failure point for aftermarket batteries. The construction. They dont take a drop very well compared to the factory batteries. The plastic is definitely lesser quality, and the construction is sometimes lacking.

Original Dewalt does fine, The batteries that came with the tool may be the only originals I own. Just talking bang for your buck. I don't feel too bad if I lose or have to chuck a knockoff, but cringe if I chuck an original.

I would call them affordable alternatives, not fakes. They're in fact real batteries, and not knockoff/counterfeits either. I have used them, and have no issues with them really. But I still prefer my Milwaukee and makita batteries

I bought a 2 pack of ryobi 18v knockoff batteries. I only fully charged twice and then was junk and the second lasted a couple months. But I took em apart and a genuine battery apart and they didn't have half the circuts inside them or have the capacity they were said to have.

I have had very good luck buying “fake “Nimh batteries from the usual suspect, the old Makita runs well on them.

There are no *fake* batteries in this video, there are OEM Milwaukee batteries and aftermarket Milwaukee *compatible* batteries. Do you call every other AA battery that's not an Every Ready brand fake?

Work buys the Vanon knockoffs. Doesn't matter if they're genuine or knockoffs though, you can be sure the idiots there will break the side clips within a day.

I won't buy knockoffs because I don't trust the cells and lithium ion batteries are no joke. What I do is buy new Samsung cells and replace the ones in my packs when they finally die.

I remember you had to have the green LG’s, then you had to have the pink bois, but then came the LG chocolates. Then everyone switched back to pod systems. Go figure.

The thing that really throws me off with understanding amp hours is that milwaukee has an 18v 6.0amp hour standard battery which is about the same size if not exactly the same size as the 3/4/5 amp hour batteries but then milwaukee has the high out put 6.0 which is significantly larger and lasts a lot longer, so if amp hours is how long the battery lasts than how can they both be 6 amp hours if one definitely without a doubt lasts longer? (i use these on the 18v big blower which over heats anything that isn't a highoutput battery and on their angle grinders so it's quite easy to tell the time and performance of the batteries with these tools)

2, 9ah waitley 12v Milwaukee batteries I got for 54$ and won’t go back to buying name brand unless it’s a free batt thrown in with tools

3:05 I found one of those red cells on the ground from a junked vape or something but it says "Uitra Flre" Haha fcking Engrish.

I did a test with my m12 vacuum and the fake battery lasted longer than the comparable Milwaukee battery. How do you like that?

You gotta look at the actual chipset in each.. the whole bms will be different as well as their current output allowances.. like ryobi official batteries on the plus line have boards with all kinds of protection with voltage equalization therefore they can get away with allowing more of a current output without the batteries going nuclear,. The ripoff batteries use generic microcontrollers and cut the draw down to pussy levels..

Samsung and reputation... they already lost it when they put timing circuits on their tv's that burned the timing circuit after warranty was over and before that they had calculated how much they need to go under speck with capacitors to blow them after warranty..Combine with all their other crap, they do have reputation alright... well least its not bad as Apples... Also its not like there havent been knock off cells floating around before...

@funk Fpv have you heard of a guy called AvE? you two should bounce ideas off each other... just saying. www.youtube.com/@arduinoversusevil2025 skim through some of his vids. i think you two knowing of each other will be a net positive for all parties. Also thanks for the top tier content. Your 'shorts' vids are beyond good. Keep up the good work.

Dewalt is for cocaine. Milwaukee is for meth. Makita is for budlight

Tbh...they are way over priced...so i don't care.... Glad you are feeling better

I have a fake 6 amp m18 Milwaukee battery, it works ok in an impact driver but not in anything where it would be useful

not bad for an ultrafire to have 35g.. many of their 18650s are under 30 which is why they have such a bad rep

Great video, 0:02

You have that shirt and it’s awesome. But do you really think the guys making the finger remover 3000 are enough?

"fake" means they are selling them as real and they con you. These are NOT fake, they are imitation and sold as such. Their only claim needs checking is compatibility, and they are good on that one.