HilleCine yeh I can see they are flawed in their design. But my original comment was pointing out that it wasn’t user error or Matt’s fault m....it’s the biners that are rubbish.
In defence, these biners get a bit sticky if you don’t oil them up after regular use - just like cams. However, I know that they’ve changed the design slightly for future iterations to avoid this issue. I don’t think this is a good reason to not use this piece of gear. If you don’t check that your screwgate is done up then that’s your fault, similarly to not checking if a biner is closed. Of course it’s the designers job to try and reduce the likelihood of issues like this arising, but it takes time to sort out the faults and for what this is, it’s actually an incredibly useful and simple piece of kit that I’ve found to be a valued piece in my climbing rack :)
@@RobbiePhillips Those biners are not equivalent to screwgates or other "safe" biners though. Edelrid even says so themselves iirc. They're just a safer snapgate, although imo, they're not even that.
IMHO, when maintained and checked regularly they are slightly safer compared to a normal snapgate, but I have a climbing partner who uses them and I've seconded for him and found gates part way stuck open on gear. I once had to double up (with opposing gates) his anchor biners as he'd used them for all the gear. I also have concerns that if they were crossloaded with the rope running over the gate, that could be enough to slide the mechanism and pop the gate open...
So... thats not entirely true. They meet all the requirements for safety set out by EN regulations for whats regarded as a "Locking Biner", so Edelrid state quite rightly that they are locking biners. I just spoke to one of their designers to double check, so I don't know where you got your info from (please send it to me if you have it, I'd be interested to see). At the end of the day it's a case of your perceived risk and an individual assessment based on your skill level as a climber. I used these biners everyday for a variety of tasks that make climbing on Big Walls/Multipitch much easier and safer in many regards. If you don't feel that they meet your own standards of safety for whatever type of climbing you're doing, then thats fine, but for what I do, I find them very acceptable in setting up belays, belaying with, and preventing my jacket from falling off the back of my harness (which has happened when using a normal snaplock biner :P ) Again, I feel it's a very subjective point and you're right that they aren't as safe as maybe a Twist Lock or Triple Lock biner, but climbing is all about assessing risks and making decisions based on the knowledge you have. It's worth noting just from my personal experience, I have never come across one of these biners undone after I've securely locked it, but thats not to say that it can't happen (as we've seen from comments on this thread), just like it's not impossible for Screwgates to come undone either, or cams to wiggle out of their placements, or nuts to flick out. It's all about the perceived risk and assessing each scenario in and of itself. Thanks for your comment :) Made me double check to make sure I knew what I was talking about haha Also check this out: www.alpenverein.de/chameleon/public/520c21c5-270e-6c4d-cd7c-e181ccabc107/Verschlusskarabiner-Uebersichtstabelle-2018-06_30226.pdf It's from the DAV and I don't speak or read German, but it's fairly self explanatory. It's only a suggestion, but includes the Slider Biner's.
Look, think of the Edelrid Slider Carabiners what you want, but they DO NOT EQUATE TO A LOCKING BINER. Their opening mechanism has just one mode, which means that they're to be regarded as snapgates from a safety perspective. I would never want to get belayed on one of those.
Totems rock! They are also able to be loaded on one side of the cam only and act as offsets as well. That is incredible. I use BD’s, aliens and totems. Totems are my absolute fav.
Not reccomend to lead on a two lobe placement though. That placement is meant for body weight when aid climbing. I'd still place it if I had absolutely no other choice but I'd definitely consider it a no fall zone.
I feel like you guy should like Mic up matt and whoever is being interviewed at the same time. It should feel like a natural conversation and that cant really take place with one party dictating when the other speaks.
I LOVE my Totems and DMM offsets. Still figuring out my small (7kn) ball nutz, but I've been advised to put a screamer on them when lead climbing (as opposed to aiding). Very cool video
I've taken a couple SMALL falls on my blue and red ball nut and they have held so far. Everytime I place one, its in a tiny parallel seam that has literally zero other gear options, so I've began taking the 3 smallest ones everytime I go for an onisght. End up using them probably 1 in 4 climbs
like the way he hints at colour coding his rack - i have found this super helpful, and an easy guide to what i need on my rack, and what to use size wise.....
Climbing pro on my rack: 7 Cams: WC Friends size 0.4-4 4 micro cams: Dmm dragonflys size 1-4 4 hexes: Dmm torque nuts size 1-4 (I like em. I dont use em really when with a partner because we would have a double rack of cams with our combined gear) Future purchase of BD c4 cams size 5 and up 6 tricams: Camp tricams size .125-2 (For new york gunks/kentucky rrg) 10 nuts: BD stoppers size 4-13 5 offset nuts: BD offset stoppers size 7-11 (x2 sets) (I like BD stoppers cuz every gear store has them in case i gotta replace some if i cant get one unstuck from a placement, and they would be my go to pieces if i have to bail on a route) 12 draws 60cm extendable 70m rope Guide belay device PAS: Petzl connect adjust Hollow block for rappel Various slings Webbing Cordlette Crack gloves Helmet, harness, shoes, chalk obviously
Love the video! But when are you guys going to cover the Edelrid Jul devices on your gear show?! I’ve been using my Mega Jul for years and LOVE it, but don’t know if the Giga Jul is worth the upgrade. I’d love it if you guys covered these devices! Nothing quite like them.
Giga Jul is much much better for multipitch climbing IMO, despite being heavier, as it gives you options for non-brake assisted mode when belaying a 2nd off the anchor and also for rappelling.
I've been bingeing climbing videos all morning because I was going to go climbing this weekend but my truck got stolen yesterday with both my pairs of shoes, harness, belay devices and some other bits and bobs in it from the gym. 😭
The one from CAMP are 4 sizes covering from 3 to 8 mm (they have much higher range than micro friend) and are all rated 8Kn, so you could lead on, I usually just aid on them instead of hammering a pitoon in, but you need to pay really good attention to the orientation as they do not like to rotate in a crack...
@@REVOLUTIONS51 Bah - my bad! Yes I used to have a set of ball nuts - camp also sell them and I believe they are the same product. They only criticism I have of them is that their longevity is far less than microcams as the small wire which operates the ball is somewhat fragile and easy to bend.
Totem Cams... the alloy biting more is a knowable thing. He should learn... so then we can know. I'll look into this cam, but just a bit bummed the information wasn't presentable at review time.
