I did the first fully running and drivng g23 back in 2003/2004. f23a1 with h22 head. type s pistons. supertech valvetrain and skunk 2 cams. tuned with only a VAFC2 in a 92 cx hatchback and made 232hp and the car ripped!! i drove it from vegas to wyoming several times. spanked a ton of cars that should have beat me. and finally sold the car in 2007. I used h22 trans with b series axles and didnt have any issues. a few years ago i did an f20b in ek hatch and had axle issues with that car at first. using innovative mounts and the car was dumped on cut springs. replaced with coilovers and installed a fresh set of mounts and axle issue was solved. i currently have k24a2 with type s trans in my ek hatch tuned on haltech elite 1500 and i still think my H series was way faster. i currently have an f20b in my garage that needs thrust washer replaced and i have a fresh fully built head. i think i may pull the k swap and go back to H!
If you are, it's been an honor, l've been following your creation back on honda-tech days and l'm still a fan of your creation ever sinced. Thanks for your feedback, hope you find my channel doing a good job continuing your creation.
Nope, i'm egman702. at the time, it was me and prelittlelude doing the g23. his was together first, and as far as i know mine was on the road first. @@sagittnet2158
Hey man. Thanks for sharing. I’m thinking of doing an H22 swap in my EF. I had a B16 in it and I kept my axles. Are you saying I can use those B16 axles on an H22 gearbox? And if so, which half shaft would I use?
@@the4thgen_tfl Your B16 axles might not be a correct length on a full H22 swap on EF. I'm using 89 Integra axle w/ Accord inner joint on pax side. H22 halfshaft; 89 Integra w/ H22 inner joint. I dont want to give you a false info on your EF chassis. I've learned that Insaneshafts axle length are the same like 1989 Acura integra w/ Prelude inner axle joint (driver and pax side). B series inner axle joint (pax tranny side) is too short for Prelude/ Accord transmission. It'll pop out. Let say you want to make your own axle, you need 90-97 Accord or Prelude inner joint that will insert on transmission and couple that w/ B series axle shaft, that's on pax side. For the Driver side; You need Prelude H22 halfshaft. B series axle but with Prelude inner cv joint so it'll lock in to the halfshaft.
I've had all the motors over the years. In my opinion b series boost is awesome. I've had both super charged and turbo setups . Including nitrous. I've have also have had all motor h22 in eg it rips pretty good . But the bad thing about h22 is lack of support on aftermarket parts . And the auto tensioner failing . I have had ks tune tensioner. For b series b20vtec all day for all motor. But after having k24 swap its hard to go back to a b or h22 .The motor revs like a bike . A set of camshafts swap in a k swap is far more responsive compared to h22 or b series . In my opinion. But Love all honda builds . Great content 👌 keep up the hard work
Thanks, I lost that K fever a long time ago l and wish it would strike me back again lol! Sure like to build and actually experience how it is, if it really is K is the way. I bet it'll be something like experiencing a boost and you'll never go back NA again lol!. But seriously, maybe someday man! I'll do it. I actually got a k20a3 but my tuner told me to get k24 instead. Soon it'll happen and thanks again.
@sagittnet2158 junk yard is the cheapest way to get a k24a2 or buy jdm k24 with rbb head. If you build a g23 you could afford a k24. I'm not rich either just patient. You just buy one part at a time . Or buy a complete swap out of wreck car. If you go k the most expensive parts to buy is transmission and k pro , everything else you could do on a budget. Hasport mounts went up a lot in price tho
@@erikfreeman4620 I've been looking on the yard whenever l go but no luck on a2's and one time l gave it a thought of the expenses and l just realized l already own a rsx shifter and cables. I only need those items you've mention. I'll slowly collect parts like how you've said. Later man!
Ive got the weakest k swap from an 05 accord and with only 160hp, its still extremely fun and has no trouble spinning the stock tires. I have most of the parts to turbo it and Im expecting 400hp😎
@@sagittnet2158 sorry to keep bothering you I've been looking all over do you remember what conversion kit and oil cap u got? Edit: my buddy has a 2001 prelude im trying to get him to hold me until I can afford it I'm a huge honda enthusiast have friends in the parts dept. if you're ever having trouble finding older parts fell free to dm me thanks for being so through in you video i'll share your video to him he would love this.
@@Mrhurtsdonut It's a custom G2b, I used a 1320 h2B adapter plate that I cut in half so it'll be easier for me. No need to fabricate a plate (mount holes are precision made) and also the rear T bracket, tranny bracket, driver engine post mount and bracket are custom made. The engine and transmission was shifted 1" to make clearanced for the power steering pump and crank pulley. I created a playlist so it'll be easier to navigate on my channel and you can see how it got all materialized. it's a Level 7 performance quick vent oil cap and no worries at all. You can always leave a msg. Thanks
I wouldn't run the open air intake (anymore), fabricating a large airbox makes the filter last much longer and you can direct air through the bumper for a little RamAir instead of the Air Cone. Have you ever thought about using the F series crank in the H series 87mm block? FYI, the F series SOHC VTEC heads are close to the performance of a DOHC VTEC Head. Using the H22 intake manifold and 4-2-1 header on a f23A1 gets near H22 performance. it's almost not worth it. You have a Good build, however Rod/Stroke ratio is an issue f23 97mm is too much,, you will deform the cylinder. 95mm crank from the f22 in the H22 block is a better option for reliability and RPMs. The h22 crank being 90.7mm. The F20 at 88mm with balance shaft delete would be interesting for a super high reving build with boost as the reduced bore would be better at preventing knock. But IMO it would not be worth it from a value perspective. K series is THAT much better, and lighter.
I thought about installing a sheet of aluminum to seperate the air intake from digesting hot air w/c l've done some experiment on it on my cd5 Accord and it really helped big time. Other idea was to use Honda Prelude OE air intake box but l couldn't make it fit so dropped that idea. Next l was eyeing PLM air intake box but l never got around w/ it. I might get to it in the near future to come. I made a H23vtec and also H22 stroker that l used a f23 crank n rods w/ H22a4 pistons, H22 cyl head. I did heard using about F23a1 cyl head intake manifold will have good power results and yes, K is the way and no doubt! Someday l'll give it a try again and thanks for your feedback. Later man!
OG rules! Lol! But seriously, when it comes on swap, K is the way, its a new generation motor. Wish someone could design and fabricate a H22 camshafts mechanism that can be electronically control like the K series. That would be a game changer.
Hi, I have been following you for some time, great videos Question, can I put k20 pistons on a h22a to increase the power, or should I leave it stock and build a complete g23?
It's best to keep your H22 stock and if you really want a little bit of power from it. You can install a OE type S H22a4 piston to bump your comp ratio and use type S cams or Sk2 tuner cams. Only use Honda piston that way you dont have to worry about parts incompatibility. If your block still have orig FRM sleeve it'll save you a headache down the road. K series and H22 piston have different height. If K20 piston is use on H22 using H crank and rod, it'll put the k piston sunk in and like l mentioned, you'll have material incompatibility. Possible of damaging frm sleeve or piston skirt unless your H have iron sleeve. Also since k piston will be sunk down the block, it wont give the power that you want to begin with. You can build a H23vtec using your block by installing either F22 or H23a1 crank n' rods. If your block 98-2001 H22a4, you can use F23 crank n' rod (like stroker l built) and only use OE H piston or just build a G23 using f23 block. If you need more info, you can always check Honda-tech.com and visit their faq. Thanks man and if you ever decide to build a g23, only use Honda F23 headgasket and use a hondabond or mega grey sealant on head plugs regardless if using those removable plugs.
Sinced you pretty much got 60% of the parts coz you already have a B20 wl ls tranny. You dont have to get a axle. You'll be needing few more part pieces like plate adapter, crankshaft to flywheel spacer and longer bolts, driver side post mount, intermediate adapter plate and ect. There's a few kits out there on the market to choose from if you decide to go H2B. But like l have mentioned, there's pros n' cons. I was lucky enough to have a H2B swap that motor is straight and still retained power steering.
If you use the Plateless H2B setup or something like l did. You can install a/c coz it'll have plenty of clearances for a/c compressor. I couldnt say much on H2B using adapter plate if its possible or not. Thanks
It's not about w/c tranny has a longer or shorter gears. It's the feeling l have that somehow l was able to floor the gas when using 1st gear and l have no fear of breaking anything.
I have a f23a1 block , I got some k20a2 pistons for my aftermarket f20b rods, and they don't fit , stopped my build dead in its tracks , any ideas or suggestions
l send you a link and he's got same dilemma like yours and he just shave the rods. Not sure if your'e comfortable of doing the same but its better to have a machine shop personel do it coz it needs to be rebalance after. I think your rods are design for a forged pistons. Are you building a F23a1 block w/ F20b crank and rods?
@@sagittnet2158 I had Vitara pistons with B18B rods in the boosted D16 in my CRX. ended up getting a motorcycle than sold it. my coworker is restoring it now.
It was 96 Lx auto and using orig auto harness. I cut off some of the connectors l dont need and use 1 connector for my reverse light. Have you seen those inexpensive tucked harness on ebay. I thinking of getting one of those and check all the wiring pin out points. Making sure all wire are terminated correctly. It shouldnt be that hard to check it out. Thanks
@@sagittnet2158 I didn't know you could use the Auto harness. How did you wire up VTEC? Are you using a OBD2 distributor? I have a 98 DX Auto coupe. Ya I see the eBay harness made by Jackspania thinking about using it.
@@skromee l just remembered it now that my lx model dont have a vtec solenoid. l used a engine harness from a EX model that has vtec and automatic tranny. I actually got 2 harness w/c in the beginning l got a manual not knowing its for 99 Civic and l went to the yard to got what l'm using now. Sorry for misleading rsponse earlier but it' not that hard to add wires for vtec if you decided to use your harness. I'm using obd1 dizzy. All wires was so crusty that its bare exposed. I decided to use the Obd2 connector so it'll plug n play w/ Civic obd2 harness.
Automatic harnesses are the best in 2024 why? Because they have extra plugs to future use.even if its dx auto 9/10 there would be a extra plug left over when converting to manual that you can use to hook up vtec for an example
I wouldn't do H2B or G2b unless I have lots of unused free parts laying around for it. Its cost more than a K swap. You can do a JunkYard stock k24a2 swap with reliability on plenty of power.
Prices will go up on any kind of engine swaps if you have to source something you dont have. But there's always a way doing it cheaper and yes no doubt, K is the way!