What's the best way to install a string on a repeating crossbow? 

Yes, I will do this separately, I am currently testing all of the different bolts I was able to scrounge up on the market in Europe, range tests will come after that, at least with the most accurate bolts in different weight categories.

1) I use .025" or 0.6 mm, thinner wears out faster, and standard serving thread (i.e. not BCY Halo, Dyneema, or some other UHMW-PE) wears out faster. 2) I was recently talking to some guys at Steambow about how much to twist the string and if they do not want to offer a slightly shorter stringing aid to increase the brace height. They said they are concerned about people overtwisting the string and introducing excessive shock into the system. I think that the string cannot really be damaged, unless you twist it so much that it becomes kinked or has knots, but this would require you to use a string that is far too long for the bow, or to twist a suitable string ridiculously short. 2a) A consideration with twisting is that as you increase the brace height (distance from the limb), you are reducing the power stroke. So you tension the bow more but lose acceleration path, meaning it is probably a wash in terms of energy you get out. 3) The maximim achievable distance from the cocking bars depends on the crossbow model, the specific limb, and the length of the stringing aid. I set to between 14 and maybe 18 mm on my Stingers, using a 1 cm shorter stringing aid and always twisting down as far as I can and still get the eyelet on. A new string will stretch at first, so I unstring and add a twist or two after some shots. 24 mm sounds very good, actually, in terms of the string not hitting the cocking bars with much force. I strung a limb to my "taste" at Steambow just to demonstrate, and the tech guy said he felt like it was 1 or 2 twists too much, but I am not sure how much "science" is behind that. I just want to put the information out there clearly that I am going against what the manufacturer is saying with my current method.

I am working on a video about the aluminum magazine now. I have been shooting it with the iron sights, which are really proper sights unlike the spring and nubbin, and this makes it much easier to repeatably align the sights. The sights are very accurate for me, and I really like that. I also do like the metal magazine from the Stinger 1 a lot, partly just liking the feel and stoutness of a metal body as opposed to the polymer, but this is subjective to a degree. Steambow claims that due to the lack of flex in the aluminum, the interior tolerances are tighter, and the arrows are guided more tightly, and should lay better on the deck. I will get into more details in my video, once I make my measurements. I really like the magazine, though, the feel and the quality, and the improved features. I am also happy with the polymer magazines, they work just fine, but the aluminum is a class above.