I gave up on linen thread. I like the look really thin (0.35 to 0.45mm) thread provides for my wallets. I also like to think that the items I make can last decades, if cared for properly. One of the ways to make sure of that is to pull the thread rather tightly when stitching. I tried that with linen thread and was just snapping it. I did some experiments with linen vs polyester thread - after stitching a pocket, I tried tearing it apart. With polyester it's pretty much impossible. Linen doesn't put up much of a fight. I love Tiger or Slam thread, but as they don't come lower than .6mm, I now usually use the Amy Roke polyester threads. Still use Slam for bags.
My early career was very much in the textile industry - when I was learning about fibre, yarn, threads, woven, nonwoven etc - the history as to why we have such peculiar measurements and specifications in textiles was fascinating, and reminds me that we people are odd.
Your vids are very information dense, so the first time I watched this I didn't get most of what you were talking about, but it is a great reference to come back to once I had more options than just what came in my starter kit. (Which also boosts your viewing numbers!) The fact the vid is chaptered also makes it a lot easier to find what I need. I have just been through a bunch of your older vids (I had tools to sharpen) and can see that the production and your on screen confidence has grown over time, and I really like it when I can see channels that have evolved and come into their own, so well done on the hard work!
Thanks James! Glad the videos have helped you 👍 Yes, when I look back on my first videos it is clear I have come a long way 😂 It all comes down to practice whatever the craft 👍
I keep learning so much from you! I have been wondering about thread types and sizes as i am new to this craft. You are a truly wonderful resource! And you accent is most pleasant!
Great information, thanks very much! I love all these videos where you break down the details of tools, types of leather, thread, etc... Most people/channels just skip over that stuff; but for someone who is relatively new to leather work, all of this information is wonderful!
Thanks so much. I found this very helpful. I'm sure I'll have to go back and watch it several more times, but I appreciate your sharing your practical insights.
Another great video Jo! It's so hard to find comparative visual data for different chisel/thread combinations, so this is an amazing reference for a lot of us. I can confirm I took a leap of faith ordering an army of Ritza 25 Tiger thread in 0.6mm and 0.8 mm last week - to possibly replace my current Vinymo setup - for my 4.0mm pricking irons and round dent punches. Hopefully this video will help others to select their favorite setup with a bit more confidence that I had hehe!
Glad you like the video 🙂 my aim was to give as much information as possible so people can make their own choices as to what they would personally like 👍
Yup, loads of info in there Jo and as you said, a lot of the choices come down to personal preference. Personally I'm with you and tend to use linen thread as well mainly because it is also what I use in bookbinding. The environmental side of it also plays a big part in my decision though. I get mine pre-waxed from Hewits in 50g skeins although I did recently buy some Tiger thread from them as well (40% off was too good to pass up).
There is a the xiange thread from Pro Atelier that is a linen look polyester thread, it really is hard to tell the difference between them. But I do like the idea that if for whatever reason someone brought one of my wallets and lost it forever, it would rot away to nothing and not leave any plastics behind.
I like synthetic thread because it is much more durable in every way compared to linen or even hemp (hemp is many times stronger than linen. I also find that flat braided thread (even the higher quality ones like ritzy “tiger” thread) looks bad because it is flat. There is a Chinese company that makes the best leather stitching threads out there. Their Messi linen thread in the best linen thread out there and they have a polyester version of it that is also twisted. That being said the one i love is their “NANMEI” rounded braided polyester thread. You get the properties of braided thread (it won’t coil up while stitching and has good strength if its braided evenly (avoid cheap braided thread) )while getting the look of rounded thread. Bonded polyester or nylon thread (nylon is stronger than polyester but lacks the slight UV resistance that polyester has) is also good as it won’t unravel.
I like the meisi threads also, they are what I use the most along with the weixin and xiange from Pro Atelier Plus. Agree that the flat braided threads don't give as nice a stitch, which is what I say on the video. 👍
In addition to SPI, I've always considered the thickness of the piece. A KaBar style knife sheath, half an inch thick, will require a lower SPI as well as a burlier thread thickness. Likewise, a delicate, thin watchband would lean towards a higher SPI and much thinner thread thickness. I don't recall you ever doing a chisel/pricking iron discussion, where you lay out and discuss your collection. You're pretty old school as far as pricking irons being preferred, but I've wondered what your collection looks like. I have literal "scads" of chisels/irons, but really only use maybe 3 of them, between 3-4mm, rarely a 5mm. I often used linen years ago, but have transitioned over to polyester. Maine Thread Co. here in the US.
I’ve been trying those John James needles and I find that the eye is quite small for the .5.6 type linen threads. I’ve been using and very rough at that snagging the thread if it’s a tight fit, especially. I’ve had to use one of those little gadgets that helps pull the thread through because I’ve not been able to wet the end and get it through on its own, I bought some Amazon needles with a much bigger eye, and those are much easier to thread, as well as the eye is very smooth in the thread passes through without getting caught up in the eye.
I found for long stitches I will go with the Ritza because of how it is braided into a tube and doesn't easily tangle. Yes it lays flat, but no one will see it on an inside seam of a bag.
I brought silk thread, cotton thread and nylon thread.. I should have seen this episode before that. Anyways I'll use it for something else, maybe bookbinding projects.. Will silk thread be good enough ?
Hi Jo, I have Barbour 3/18 - 4/18 - 5/18 natural and white unwaxed linen threads. Obviously I wax them when I use them. Have you ever heard of using Feibings or other dyes to make the thread match the leather project. I need to use up these spools before I kick the bucket. I currently use Tiger because they have great colors but I know I could dye the linen to any color. I never hear people talking about dyeing linen threads. Would the dye damage the linen threads? John
