We are all learning- sometimes at the contractors expense or our own. Thanks for the video, glad to hear from the comment section. Btw, never store tools on high places or ledges.....they fall and land on people or pet animals.
All you haters writing negative comments about this video are Contractors afraid to news business this guy did a really good job due to the circumstances So really pisses me off that all you can think about is your insecurities about losing work The man had to do what he had to do when you so called professionals failed him so buzz off In secure haters to the home owner good job man
Its wrong, plain and simple, according to code and manufacturers recommendation its WRONG. You probably one of those “DIY” contracters that undercuts real contracters and does a half ass illegal job. And judging by your name your probably an illegal immigrant too.
everything show in this video is wrong whether was performed by a pro or the homeowner.... this kinda job needs to be followed by code because if u don't know something u don't guess since u can set the house on fire. pay attention and you'll see how many 90* he has and also it looks like he mixes different type of pipes some looks single walls and others looks dual walls and both have different spaces when it comes to building materials and also b vent doesn't require any kind of tape =\. if you don't know something, just look online for answers since is all there don't try to be cap save a joe, and fix everything on the cheap side.
I'm a fire inspector in California. We always recommend following the manufacturer's separation specifications. Most B-type (double wall) vents require one inch, but always follow what the manufacturer indicates (this information is usually embossed or labeled on the vent/product). Also, always use products from one manufacturer and from the same series/design ( i.e. Do not mix items from different manufacturers or different systems from the same manufacturer). I agree with Garrett Lees, who points out that only two bends are permitted and tape is prohibited here California. Finally, it's good practice to check with your local building department whether or not permits are required for the planned work. This will ensure one's safety and also protect one's investment when it's time to file an insurance claim, in the case of damage/fire. Cheers!
I just replaced a section of my exhaust. I didn’t use double layer and aluminum taped all the seams. When you walk past the furnace while it’s on, you can smell the glue from the tape melting. Now I have to redo it all. Leaving this here in case it helps the next guy.
Uhm?! The 4” B vent is centered inside the 6” single-wall vent, giving the 4” B vent a 2” clearance. The 6” is a shield for the 4” with 2” clearance due to that small space with wood and insulation. The 6” vent can touch anywhere because it is a shield with 2” between it and the 4” B vent. The contractor did an excellent job.
I like to use perforated strap to tight down the pipe in place I just cut a enough to wrap around it and screw the ends on opposite sides and then I do it again to make an x and make sure when someone is in the attic touches the pipe they don’t shift it or move it, also when installing this and poking it out the roof it’s good to have it tied down that way you’re not shifting it alover the place and it stand straight and within the gap not leaning on wood
Yes it’s 1 inch minimum clearance some manufacturers are 2 inch also you’re not supposed to use the aluminum tape in some areas it’s illegal because hacks will use it to hide holes or rust on the pipe also has to be sized by the total amount of BTUs venting
Running category 1 which rely on convection , minimum measure from combustible material is 6” , sometimes that is not possible , so if you have to be closer than 6” to the studs like in this case , you can create a heat shield , use ductwork material and live it off the wall at least 1”
By the way tape is prohibited on B-vent. If there is any rust on the joints, you want to see it. If there is any condensation you don't want to trap it. Go ahead and take the tape off, the vent will be tight enough without it.
Respectfully intended, but that bottom 90 is not code. Code is a t with a cap, this collects potential combustion oxides from the burning process ( drip t ) forvflue inspection and cleaning also.
Thanks for the video. Unfortunately some homeowners are unaware that the work that was done is not up to code. Then it gets covered up by other materials. Video would have been much better without background music though. It was distracting and hard to hear what you were saying. Hope your project turned out well. 😃
And yes that would be an inverted install which is illegal also curious why they didn’t run it straight up looks like you have a lot of offsets in that install
we are getting water in between the 2 pipes, leaking down onto the top of the hot water heater. Went onto the roof but all looks good. Storm collar is down and caulked, etc. It was a hard storm so maybe it was wind-blown rain that got under the cap and traveled down the outside of the inside pipe? Maybe add some sheet metal to keep rain from getting up underneath the cap?
all the sudden mine blows steam/condensation out the roof vent and it has my rafters all damp and dripping in just the area from where the vent sticks out the roof. No explanation, just started doing it when I turn the heat on. Any ideas?
If I'm so handy myself...why hire then? Then he mentions I didn't pay him. Yes, there are some bad contractors out there. Souds like this hired, used him to see how the lay out could have be done, then he decided to look for reviews and so on. Something tells me this guy is a scammer as well. Hire plps then finds a lame excuse not to pay. Because of cases like this both sides are affected, the consumer and the contractor. It seems like he went for a cheap bid then he expects a better outcome. You get what you pay for. My opinion, get 3 bids, check for license, reviews, and references.
I have a non-code compliant issue to watch for when re-roofing. The roof flashing for the B vent pipe was moved a couple of inches and literally has the B vent pipe now resting against a rafter 2x6. The solution is not a happy one - the roofing in that area will be removed and new flashing moved back to the original flashing location and then more new roofing will be laid down. Live and learn, hope my experience helps someone avoid this mistake.
Great video. Hse fires caused from inexperienced installation. hot exhaust pipe if touching any wood up thru hse, in time will burn hse down. Thank You.
@@markp9057 it varies according to your local building codes. In Canada I got a new hot water tank and the installer told me the stud being 3 inches from the single layer vent was not enough. It had been like that since the house was built for 20 years and it passed inspection in 1984. So I just pulled out an old piece of vent pipe and cut it and opened it to a flat piece and nailed it to the wood which took about 10 minutes. With a small gap between the wood and the metal , That was all I needed and the installer would probably have charged me $100 but I did it in front of him myself. He said he would not pass the installation without the fix.
We don't get to see the original installation and it looks like a lot of framing happened after the fact. Don't use the chase as a return and all should be good.
Thanks, but please report that guy and post his name. I work as a handy man and run into some cases where people are terrify of trusting me due to resent so call contractors, handyman. Thank you and have a nice day.
Hmm, whenever I see tape on a b-vent it’s an automatic red flag; either the installer has no clue what he’s doing, or it’s an amateur attempt to mitigate serious installation issues, and usually both. Properly sized and installed b-vent is under negative pressure, and will not leak CO. That job would fail inspection , but so many of these DIY’s are done w/o permits so no inspection. #darwineffect
Bill C there isn’t any tape approved for b vent. It’s manufactured so All the connections twist lock together. No tape is ever necessary. Most new houses and retrofits here use high efficiency furnaces and water heaters which use a power vent or inducer that vents using PVC pipe directly through the sidewall. b vents are becoming less common, maybe that explains the confusion about their proper installation.
I will be installing ‘B’ vent in my garage for ceil garage heater soon and will be going thru the roof - I know that these lock together BUT what’s wrong with adding aluminum tape to the seems? I know it’s not required, BUT why not?
Tom if it lets you sleep at night , go for it, But tape serves absolutely no purpose with a correctly installed b-vent. And unless you spring for tape that’s actually rated “high temp” ($50+/-/roll) the standard foil tape you find at home centers will fail in a few months/seasons anyway. I’ve even seen homeowners/cowboy contractors use “aluminum colored” duct tape on b-vent; extreme fire hazard. So, get over your need to tape it to satisfy your psychological needs, because mechanically, it’s unnecessary and here in CA it’s a code violation.
HVAC video from a home owner? Good lord. Good job! It looks like crap.. Advice for “do it yourselfers” call a professional who knows what they are doing. Not only is it a water hazard to your home it’s a safety hazard for your family in many ways. It’s not worth being a cheap skate. Building any house demands permits for that exact reason!
TheBattery00 I just watch a lot of videos on RU-vid, and read all the comments people provide and I do it myself, it may take a lot longer but I learn something and I think it may be a cleaner install and better because it’s not their house.
@@TrendyStone I replaced my own hot water tank and checked all the codes and studied up on it. a $200 lightly used gas hot water tank. To get one installed would be about $900. I fixed my own furnace after the repair man wanted to change out a controller board. He charged $150 to do next to nothing and still did not find the problem. I had the schematic of the board and figured out how it worked. A new board from the local company would have cost $175. On line they are about $40. But I found the problem , it was a relay , so I found a similar relay in my parts cabinet. I wired it in place and removed the old relay. It works fine, for free. took me a week or so but the weather was not cold and I just turned on the furnace fan and left my stove oven on. Probably about 4 hours of total time to fix it. The actual replacement part cost about $1 so I ordered a few relays from china. Working good now for 4 years. I should really order the replacement boards and just keep them for repairs. I fixed a good stove from my neighbor. It would have cost about $350 to fix it , the replacement display with controls was $270. I just peeled the control tape off the front of the control panel and found a break in the line. The line is so thin , you can't solder to it. So I just put some fine copper wires touching the break and put the self adhesive panel back and the glue held the contact with the copper in place. The stove works fine. You don't need these contractors and repair guys if you can study up on things a little. I replace laptop screens and phone screens. $10 to $30. All on youtube, step by step. Do all my car repairs. from youtube step by step.
You are right but if the house burns down from some other cause they can see the B vent was not 1 inch from wood. I would not want my house to burn down and then the fire inspector finding building code violations. It could affect the insurance or they could say it was the cause of the fire and pay you zero $ or take you to court and pay you half of what you would have got.
Tat was the only mistake the old contractor did. Dont think it's enough heat like they said to start a fire.. but the new contractor wanted the work if it was done wrong the new contractor would have took everything down and start over. All about the $$ he took the money out the other guys pocket all he had to do was a easy fix done.
Tat was the only mistake the old contractor did all he had to do was fix it the new contractor wanted the work if it was done wrong the new contractor would have took everything down and start over. All about the $$$
Aluminium tape is flame retardant and is effective at temperatures between -35c and 120c, meaning that it is ideal for indoor or outdoor use on almost any surface including guttering. The tape is simple to use.
@@tomatexelon you will get a drop in air velocity. That can cause the air to cool quicker than it is exhausting. The elbows as well are already dropping the velocity as well. This can cause condensation issues and your carbon monoxide may not be escaping as it should. Ideally you want all lines to be the same width but if you have to change it's better to go from large to smaller but only if you absolutely have to.
