If you enjoyed this video, maybe have a watch of another of our video's which is 5 things you may not know about the Freelander 2: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e4D623-88-Q.html
Tip for oil change. The filter cap is set at an angle and the best way to undo it is to use a 27MM pivot head ratchet spanner, otherwise it takes ages doing bit by bit, Space is limited and can't get a socket ratchet in there
Hi Maverick Joe 👋. As far as forums go, I don't think you can go wrong with Freel2.com . There are some very knowledgeable people on there that really know their stuff when it comes to Freelander 2's. If you have Facebook, then the Freelander 2 Off Road Group (FL2ORG) are a great group of people full of knowledge. There is also the Muddy Freelander group which is the Facebook group of MuddyMods who do maintenance on Land Rovers and also sell a bunch of high quality modifications for the Freelander 2. 😃 - Scott
Basically just service all the mechanical components, and refit to car once all the rust is sorted, and I drive a 2014 SDI Metropolis and absolutely love the car. 👍👍👍👍
😂😂😂. That comment made both me and Alana laugh, and you sumed it up perfectly. 😄 That's a very nice spec and year of Freelander 2. If I could work the man maths, I'd love to have a Freelander 2 like that for good and our one for offroad stuffs. 😁 - Scott
Hi Ivov 👋. You could look at it that way. But any 4x4 is going to be expensive and have "too many" parts to maintain if you maintain them correctly. These Freelander's are probably one of the cheapest cars to maintain, and they are also very capable and great cars to own. 😀 - Scott
That's a helpful video, thanks for taking the time to go through it. I've kept up with a lot of standard maintenance, but it was good to know about the PTU and steering fluid/filter
Hi Ed and Hannah 👋. I have a spreadsheet setup for people to use, I just haven't got around to making a video yet and there is the odd tweak here and there that I'd like to do. But in their current state, you can find them here: 2006 - 2010 Freelander 2 (Miles): docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1aeMX_pOzaZkbTFE27-k7hStbYg6Io79wxBpUNpsMT60/edit?usp=sharing 2011 - 2015 Freelander 2 (Miles): docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1clTNTHnQW4rV6AtBR7PWJOR0UTvIFxDQDti_Kycbbq8/edit?usp=sharing If you need a version for a different type of Freelander 2 or need it in km's, let me know. 😃 Some basic instructions: 1. Go to File > Make a copy. Hopefully this will make a copy onto your account for you to edit. Failing that, go to File > Download. Although I'm not sure how well the sheet will work when it's opened up in different software. 2. Once you've got a copy that you can edit, enter your current odometer reading into the box and enter the dates and milage of when you last carried out the jobs in the sheet. The sheet will hopefully update and tell you what jobs need doing and when. 3. You can change the service intervals to your own preference if you don't like the sample ones I have put in. 😃 Hopefully the sheet will help. 🤞 - Scott
Excellent! Well done! This should be sent to anyone who owns a Freelander/LR. Would you guys happen to recommend a reliable LR specialist in the Los Angeles area? We have so many but I want to trust the right specialist. Thanks again!
Hi Ralph 👋. Thanks for leaving that great comment. 👍 We are from the UK so no idea on specialists in that part of the world 😁. But if someone wants to ship us and our car over to LA we would be more than willing to go looking around all while enjoying that LA sunshine and American way of life. 😁. Failing that, hopefully there is an American Freelander 2 forum that could help you out? You could try the Freel2 forum as I know that there is people from all over the world on there. Whether or not anyone is active on there from Los Angeles I don't know. 😀 - Scott
Really great video guys.👍 Agree the battery is a massive one to keep on top of. Scared me the first time ours went and I got all the faults and codes. New battery and a code clear and it was good as new. Oh, I also have the additional earth strap fitted👍
Thanks RC. 👍🏻 We have actually been really lucky with our battery and not had to replace it in the 2 years we have owned the car and have no idea when it was installed. So we fully expect to have all of these issues to come. 😁 - Scott
I had to replace my battery on mine biggest problem I’ve had has been rear wiper motors had car 3 years and on 3rd motor Car is off road at moment awaiting the fitting of a 2nd hand rear subframe so I’m having to rough it in the D4 😎🏴
Are you just super unlucky with rear wiper motors or what? 😅 If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for your 2nd hand rear subframe? I only ask because a new one is £469 and it's always interesting to know how much saving there is to be had by buying 2nd hand. 😀 - Scott
Hi door lock modules about £25 on eBay. Not that difficult if you have time. Might lose skin on knuckles but worth it compaired to garage costs. Just done three on my FL2.
Hi iHall 👋. After doing 3, does that mean when the 4th is due to be done you'll be able to do it with your eyes closed? 😅 I cannot imagine how much you would've shelled out if you had got a garage to do the job for you. 🙈 - Scott
I change the oil on mine every 5-6k or 12 months and use good quality filters. 100% agree on the info re tyres, I changed all 5 on mine to AT tyres and plan to rotate the fronts to rear as the fronts will see more wear on road in normal road. For fuel filters buy genuine, they are fussy about filters. If you get a leaky shock change both sides if you can as the other won't be far behind. Rust points other than under the vehicle. Arches, Door Sills, Boot handle rail/cover. Cracking video as always. I have sent this one to my friend who has just bought a FL2.
@@ralphjimenez1954 Ours is a 2010. It depends how many miles you do in a year whether you should leave it for 12 months. We do ours, as you would've seen in the video, every 6,000 miles. That for us equals 12 months anyway. Some people would class the oil as still new at that mileage and wouldn't change it. But we do a decent chunk of offroading which involves alot of slow speed stuff which generates alot of heat within the engine seeing as the radiator isn't being blasted with cool air like it would be if you were doing more than 30mph. To me, and I could be wrong when I say this but I feel like heat can age oil just as much as mileage can. 😀 - Scott
You are welcome Nemo 👍. In a video format where I eject all the information within a short space of time it does come across as an amazing amount of maintenance. Also when you buy one 2nd, 3rd, 4th hand, there probably will be most of this maintenance work to get through because the owners before maybe haven't done it so you're playing catch up while you get on top of it. 😃 Overall though, once you get the Freelander 2 maintained, a lot of the stuff doesn't need touching for 5 or more years. So the servicing becomes very similar to any other car apart from the Haldex which could do with a service every 2 years. Between Alana and I, we haven't really worked out what is similar to the Freelander 2. We often talk theoretically about what car would we go to from a Freelander 2 that could do all the jobs that a Freelander 2 can do and we never actually answer the question. 😅 I think the maintenance on this car is just the joy of having something that can take you from the North of Scotland to the South of England very comfortably and safely. Then with a twist of a rotary switch, then be doing some pretty intense off roading. To sum up, it does have a lot of different maintenance items, but you also get A LOT of car with the Freelander 2. 😁 - Scott
Good video mate - I've got 2008 FL2 TD4 and have already replaced the Timing Belt / Water Pump Kit and a faulty Throttle Valve - Other issues l've had which apparently are quite common are a dodgy Crankshaft Sensor (easy job) and currently a duff EGR Valve (down-right bloody awkward) - Anyway thanks again and l agree with you totally - If one looks after their FL2 it will look after you.
Thanks alot Mark 👍. There's a good few almost niggly issues that do come up with these FL2's as you've found which I was going to include in the video but then quickly realised it would make the video go on longer than I, or anyone else would like. 😅 Wouldn't it be nice if all these parts were easy to get to and on quick release fittings to make everyone's life easier. 😁 - Scott
Hah, I can certainly see where you're coming from. 😁 When they work, it's a great system. When they don't work, they can be a nightmare and expensive too. 😀 - Scott
Hi Diary Of A Dead Tattooist 👋. Freelander 2's really don't enjoy short trips. The battery takes a hammering (especially in winter), just starting the car. Then there's a surprisingly decent amount of ECU's dotted around the car, all wanting their own power out of the battery. 😀 Plus, the earlier FL2's also had a smaller alternator, which meant the battery wasn't getting recharged as quickly. So if you plan to do short trips, try and factor a longish trip into the mix. Not only to keep the battery healthy, but also to keep the engine happy as that will get gunked up with short runs. Another idea is to put the battery on some kind of smart charger when the car is parked up. But that still won't keep the engine happy if it's subjected to shorter runs. 😀 - Scott
@@ScottandAlana4x4 yipp. Bit like most diesels then. Possibly get a larger battery (amg one you mentioned) to compensate with a hook up to charge half way through the week. We only live 3/5 mins from work traffic depending. 😜 Thanks for responding.
@diaryofadeadtattooist Exactly like most diesels. 😁 The battery aside, the biggest issues you will probably have is DPF issues if you have a later FL2. It's also got a variable geometry turbo that gets all gummed up with short journeys. Plus, the oil won't be getting hot enough to burn off moisture within it. If you can, try and find a long route home and hold it in gears to get the revs up and turbo working. That should get things up to temperature and start to burn off any nasty build-ups of rubbish within the engine area. 👍😀 - Scott
really like your videos learnt a lot. My 2010 Freelander makes a humming drumming noise at the rear. its not the wheel bearings, it makes the noise in drive and when freewheeling. I have read that its a worn diff that needs replaced any thoughts on that theory?
Hi Simon 👋. Firstly thanks alot. 👍😀 As you would've seen in this video, the service schedule for changing the rear diff oil was set too far apart. Which meant the oil lost its ability to be oil and swarf would build up in the diff and float around in the oil. Couple that with previous owners not wanting to pay to have it serviced results in knackered diffs. 😀 Even if it was serviced, some people have reported doing a diff in about 40,000 miles. So as you can gather it is very possible it could be a diff on the way out. If you're comfortable doing the work yourself then I'd say buy one from Bell Engineering, MuddyMods or FreelanderSpecialist . com so you get a good quality diff. If not, give one of those companies a call and get your car booked in to have it checked out. The only downside is because those companies are good and know Freelander's inside out, they have a bit of a waiting list to get booked in I believe. 😀 *BUT* , the other thing to bear in mind is sometimes tyres when they wear down can get *VERY* noisy and almost give off the impression that you have wheel bearing or diff issues. So don't go off at the deep end and buy a diff before you've ruled out tyres first. 😀 I hope this helps. 😁 - Scott
Rear differential noise - problem with the rear differential bearing/s due to incorrect (strong) factory tightening torque (I changed it twice before they figured it out)
Thanks alot Steve! 👍 Hopefully the main dealer's in Spain are much better than the ones here. Main dealers here have a reputation for having a less maintained Freelander 2 than if you were to take it to an independent who actually knows what their doing and doing the jobs that need to be done. 😊 It's almost a sure bet that a main dealer will never touch the Haldex or the PTU because they are "sealed for life", "don't need maintenance" and, "if it's not on the list, it doesn't get done". 😅 - Scott
@@ScottandAlana4x4 it looked to be very good, but unfortunately the steering fluid just pissed out of the bottom of it 😫 annoyingly I knew the reservoir hadn’t been changed. I assume that’s now caused a blockage and popped one of the hoses off down the bottom. Dodgy passenger side front lock which I missed on inspection somehow too! Hopefully not too costly to sort the power steering!
@@Harrisonthetube From a financial point of view that's less than ideal to have those issues. 🥲 But mentally, just think of it this way if you plan to keep the car for a number of years. Every part you replace now is one less part that will make you breakdown or surprise you later down the line. 😊 Hopefully you'll be lucky and these issues will be the only ones you'll have for a long while to come 🤞 If it makes you feel any better, within about a month or so into our ownership of our Freelander 2, we had to buy a whole new Haldex and have it fitted. The Haldex was many hundreds of pounds before it even got to the fitment part. 😅 - Scott
