Interesting this came up on my RU-vid feed and its 4 years old. Some of what this guys says is true - kiln dried wood is usually resin free because the kiln drying process crystallises the resin in the "pitch pockets" - and, it's not only knots that spill pitch across the surface. However, it's not true to say that the only way to get rid of the resin is to replace the board. If you have a heat gun ( like a paint stripping gun), you can play the heat over the knot/pitch pockets, being careful not to burn the timber face and watch the pitch run off - this run off can be cleaned off with white spirit/ turpentine or whatever cleaning agent is used in your locale. Once the heat is removed, the pitch in the knot will crystallise and seal the knot/pitch pocket and it can then be stained/painted/finished as you see fit. There are several videos on RU-vid that describe how to do this.
Came here looking for this comment. I learned that trick from a custom cabinet builder and I have used it on some ptp deck floors before painting with oil base and it seems to do the trick. No sap issues yet. He also said after crystallizing the sap with a heat gun to wipe it down with denatured alcohol. I don’t know if that’s necessary but that’s what I’ve done and had success.
Shut my mouth. You're the 1st video I watched regarding this, and I believe you!😂 Unfortunately, im losing my mind down here in Florida with sap coming out of my newly installed deck! Pine you say? Well of course...Home depot pressure treated speciality 😫😫😫
This was so helpful. I have been talking to many people about a severe sap dripping after a good sealer was used, quality paint, sanded. Very frustrating when no steps are skipped, from A-Z done according to Hoyle, and the wood is the ultimate problem. Life lesson: "Cheap is Cheap", buy good wood.
The pressure treated wood at Home Depot is GREEN. How can you put that on your deck? Maybe it’s not Kiln-dried? I don’t know? I have sap on 1 board clear across for like 3!yrs of sapping and it’s ALOT.
@@wizardofwoodis what you recommend considered first grade quality? When I complained -now 2 summers later sap everywhere -I was told “no one can afford first quality”.
Lesson 1: I should have come to the Wizard of Wood before redoing my deck. He's the wizard for #$%^ sake! Had 5 boards replaced this past spring. Live in MidAtlantic (hot and humid summers). The boards almost immediately started oozing sap in several places. The deck guys did not say anything about wood options and they went with the lowest priced (pine). I now am covering the deck with outdoor carpet to avoid tracking sap into house but irritated by something I could have avoided - IF.... I had come to the Wizard of Wood. Hoping this dissipates over a short time but it may be years before I can enjoy an uncovered deck. 😞
WHAT IS THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF TIME BEFORE APPLYING STAIN ON PRESSURE TREATED DECKING BOARDS THEN? ANYONE HAVE ADVICE PLEASE SHARE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE. MANY THANKS , Derek
@@rmbrikha, should be in the video. They will come back. They dissipate over time. The only “true” way to remedy a board with sap, specifically if it is excessive, is to replace the board.
