Another step in the process is to establish your eye relief with the scope on the maximum setting. Very important prior to torquing the scope ring screws.
An even higher level of precision is achieved if after you mount the wheeler level to the barrel you level your vertical reticle to a plumb bob instead of levelling your turret cap to the rifle. The reticle and turret cap may not be perfectly aligned. You can project the reticle image on the wall with a flashlight and match it to a plumb bob line whilst keeping the rifle level with the wheeler... then tighten down the scope.
Agreed. Also not all scope caps are level. Swarovski Ballistic Turret model scopes are slightly rounded on top. I used the plumb bob method to align the reticle.
The Pro Series was awesome. I used it putting new Leupold Scope on my Remington Model 700 30.06. I liked your comment about sticking to one of the lines.
It is always good to check ring alignment to see if lapping is necessary before the leveling stage. I did like the fat wrench explanation "around the world". Thanks
Absolutely agree. But let's be honest (maybe) 5% of ppl will lap their rings. And to try and get the message across as quickly and detailed as possible, you gotta be willing to shave the fat to keep the majority of ppl's attention.
No it’s not he never showed that before torquing screws or final level that you need to establish your proper eye relief. He’s close to showing ya how but he left out that very important step.
P.S. I just used mine Wheeler Pro for first time. I confirmed accuracy of the small level with a Starrett 135A (a bit more precise tool I have for other uses). Then coupled the set up as you laid out, with the flashlight and plumb bob method. I went super cheap.. plumb bob was piece string with a couple hex nuts tied to one end, other affixed to top of a white piece of cardboard. Flash lite was a modest inexpensive but bright led. Note: I compared reticle square using the level atop turret and another "shim tool" under middle of scope. Both were close but and I've had great success in past. I humbly recommend giving the plumb bob and light method a try. The Wheeler barrel clamp level makes it all work well...so easy to maintain level on the rifle action while also referencing the projected reticle image. I've yet to confirm tracking at range. I'm confident in good results. I'll drop a line if I find different.
Because, a lot of people seem to think that putting it on the body is more precise. But there is no manufacturer that says their scope bodies are machined perfectly square to the cross hairs.
@@lastavocations9487 I wonder about that. I just leveled my scope tonight, Vortex. The turret cap did in fact give a different level and was visibly off compared to cap off. I’m sure different scopes within manufacturer differ as well as manufacturer to manufacturer
Nice video, Going to sound like a stupid question,but how do you level your rail ? One would think once it is attached to the receiver it's level . The reason I ask is I just got the same leveling kit and am waiting on my 4.5x27x50 Meopta to arrive and you can best believe I want Everything Square and level.
I suppose if it wasn't made square then there will be issues. As in the top of rail is not flat or the contours cut into the bottom are rotated a little off center. Or heck even the mount holes in receiver are not centered and/or aligned? How will you know? After leveling the rifle and setting the front level on barrel I would prefer the plumb bob method and align the crosshairs to the plumb bob while looking through scope.
It's a highly contested subject... But I put blue Loctite on every screw that is not designed to regularly come in and out. ESPECIALLY if it's on something that would completely put you at a disadvantage if it were to back out and make it loose. (Like a sight). Blue does nothing but gum up the thread to thread contact. It will still allow you to back the screw out if needed. But there are some things you gotta know first. 1) If you gotta back one out. Make sure you have the exact size bit for the cap. 2) The tourqe reading will need to be a little bit higher than what is recommended by the manufacturer (unless they recommended it). Loctite is considered a lubricant until it solidifies. 3) Clean out the male and female threads before putting them back together.
Is it a true Wheeler ( $50) or did they adopt it and stamp their name on it. I'm finding a few other identical 'gold' level systems like that with other branding($29). I know China is good at that, ( and I'm sure the level with Wheeler's stamp on it is made in China), but if it is the same level, what's in a name? Your thoughts?
Do you loctite your scope ring caps? I notice on talleys website they say it’s fine to use loctite on the scope bases, into the receiver but they don’t recommend using it on the scope ring caps. What’s your take?
