When Guitar Nut Width gets Religious! 

I've always felt cramped on the 43mm guitars I've had. I've just bought a Sigma (AMI) with 44.5mm and it's noticably and visibly wider than 43mm. It's a dream to play and I wish I'd tried one sooner.

I need 1 7/8 47mm-48mm 1 3/4 43mm-44mm is to narrow. The finger tips are simply to thick regardless of the hand size. They touch the string below or above for buzzing and jutting Some chords are truly impossible. Lead runs are fine. I believe there is a huge market for wider nut width. Many people just give up because they cannot play clean chords and finger style is tough on narrow necks.

You have to have thick fingers and thick finger tips in order to fully understand why standard width guitar necks do not work for those of us with thick fingers and thick finger tips.

I can feel the difference immediately. In fact, I can see it. I prefer 1 11/16 because 1 3/4 makes my left hand ache as I can't comfortably mute the E and A string with my thumb. Also, I like the closer string spacing because I have thin fingers and it's easier to hold my fingers together into a chord shape than have little gaps between them. Smaller string spacing also adds economy of motion when strumming, and makes it possible to strum more strings with a pivoting wrist motion. I wouldn't have thought a 16th would make so much different but to me it does.

Thank you for the video.You are the only person so far that has brought up the thing about the finger tips.I have big hands but more importantly I have thick fingers which makes it extremely difficult for me to properly fret guitar strings without muting the adjoining guitar strings.Most people do not take into account the fact that there are a lot of people that have thick fingers and those people such as myself with thick fingers have thick finger tips that make learning to play guitar extremely difficult.

My experience. When use to a smaller guitar nut, going to a larger nut is not a problem. However, when use to a larger nut, going to a smaller nut can be a problem.

I grew up playing Mandolin. I’m 6”3 with long thin fingers. Every guitar I ever played always caused me wrist pain when I used barre chords. I bought a Martin 000-17 with a 1 3/4 nut. Same thing … actually it was even worse. I sold it and bought a Seagull with a 1.8” nut. Absolutely no wrist pain ever. Then I went to a guitar store because I was looking for a high end guitar..Martin or Taylor and the guy said that my wrist pain had more to do with the neck than the nut spacing. He had me try a Taylor with a 1 3/4 inch nut. Wow. No pain at all. Just like the Seagull. The guy said that thin neck profiles is what I’m “allergic too”.

I'm 6'5" with bigger hands. I use 1 3/4(44.5mm) at the nut and a thickness of .880" (22.3) on my main electric. Everything was a little weird at first but it became fantastic for me after a few days.

I heard instead of even spacing, which will cram the low strings, that making the spacing even between the strings helps. That means the slots filed are progressively wider as you go towards the bigger strings. My guitar, and I bought it new, Taylor 214, the slots are closer as you progress to the bigger strings. I'm building a nut and will space the strings evenly and try it. Not the slots. I will set the strings on the nut and and make the distance between the strings the same. Instead of the distance between the slots filed. Hope that makes sense.

Any intermediate or advanced player will notice differences in nut and string spacing. If you don’t that is odd.

I have 3 guitars all have 1 7/8 width; the B7 chord is a killer on anything narrower. You are right about the spacing, a 2015 Les Paul has a wider neck but the slots have traditional spacing.

My Taylor 12e has a 1 1/16” nut width, while my 514ce has a 1 3/4” nut width. I definitely feel the difference. The 514ce is slightly more comfortable to play and keep clean, with my large hands with stubbier fingers. It could also be because I play the 514 much more often, though. So perhaps it’s physiological, perhaps it is just what I’m use to. But either way, I definitely feel difference in that 1/16”.

I prefer the 1 11/16 but it is more difficult to find than 1 3/4. I have very small hands. I can play both but once I tried the 1 11/16th, It was like home for my left hand.

Yes difference is noticeable. Martin and Taylor have moved (for the most part, not all models) to 1 3/4. I had (sold) a Martin 1 11/16 and hated the spacing, and currently own a Martin 1 3/4 that feels just right...and I have normal hands. I find it's better for fretting more complex chords...I guess it depends on your personal style...but I'm no expert

I'm trying to start playing guitar, what would you do if you have a narrow neck guitar and you can't get the string height down for that size and string spacing, cutaways mean for shredding right? It's not like everyone can hold the A major cord with their index and mute or ring the high e easily, there's the mid and high section and neck relief, it's not like you can grope the mid to high section and spread your digits even on the lower registers with these silly things until now I'm confused, hopefully I'll have the chance to try out 45-46.04 mm, and see what happens.. I don't just feel the difference, I actually get annoyed by it, but then I have yet to learn how to play the guitar.

Always 1 3/4 (44mm) these days, probably normal sized hands, I can definitely feel a difference but also think that it shouldn't be a problem, especially when you have a good look at the measured differences which are really next to nothing. My main problem with the narrow width has been that no matter how good the guitar is, it ends up not getting played and sold on. Thinking about it though, minor setup adjustments (neck relief/ saddle height, nut slots) can also be fairly insignificant measurement differences but can certainly be felt. I do plan to buy a narrower spaced guitar though as I think it shouldn't be a problem and more importantly it really limits the guitars you can own drastically. Glad I found your channel👍

I played a Washburn Woodline with a 1&11/16" yesterday and it was beautifully spaced. Played the CORT OC Blackwood with the same nut width right after and it felt completely different, too narrow. I think you're right, it depends on the cut 🤔

I can play standard strats etc, but I prefer a 48mm nut width... just look for wide neck 6 string guitar on ebay and reverb and you find plenty of that size.

Great video, thanks. I'm built like you and was also told that I have "piano fingers", but alas my finger tips must be wider than normal because I need a string spacing of 37.5 mm. Any narrower than that and my index finger cannot press down on the 2nd string 1st fret without touching one of the adjacent strings at the same time. This happens no matter what angle, or rotation, I have in my hand position. I've tried everything. I have been able to successfully fit 37.5 mm spaced nuts on some 1 11/16" necks if the fret ends aren't bevelled at too much of an angle, but 1 3/4 " neck width is better.

I found 1 3/4 easier to play without muting strings, and I’ve noticed the higher end Taylor’s and Yamahas have 1 3/4 nuts. Maybe all in my head...

I have big hands to start with and to make matters worse I have an injury on my middle finger that left the pad permanently bigger from scaring. I've struggled with playing, my middle finger is always catching and muting the other strings so my playing sounds sloppy. I purchased a Big Lou wide neck with a 2 inch nut width and found it much easier to play. I'll never go back to the smaller string spacing. With that being said if I didn't have the injury, I don't think I would need it. Great topic! Great videos! 👍

42/43mm nut width is just too small and the pads of my hands were touching the 1st string while my fingers stubbed adjacent strings to the one i was playing. Even though i was accurate. i also stopped strumming and went more into fingerstyle and classical playing , so i got a classical guitar which feels so much better.

I never thought it would make a difference until I went back and forth between a 11/16 and a 5/8. When strumming and muting strings, my muting gets sloppy when adjusting to a different width.

I search out this topic because I have an old oscar schmidt guitar that I can't play very well because my fingers are to big. I went to guitar center and played every acoustic they had under a $1000 and I could not play any of them without dampening one or both of the strings as I fretted the lower strings on the guitars. Then I played the Taylors and the Martians and some of the Takamines and I could clearly play each string at a price tag of about $2000. Anyone have any suggestions on a less costly good guitar.

I have a parkwood pw320m with a 1 11/16 nut width. Its ok but i wish it felt like a martin with 1 12/16. I just ordered the guild m120 with a 1 11/16 nut width because i didnt want to spend around $1500 for the american made m20, which incidentally has the 1 12/16 nut width. It looks like professional must prefer that in acoustics. I also have "piano hands" but the bigger nut is not much of a finger stretch and i dont have to squeeze them together so much on certain chords

I'm a little late to the party but I definitely prefer the wider neck. I have a Yamaha C-40 (2.06'') and an Ibanez V70CE (1-11/16''). The Ibanez is super bright with more sustain while the C-40 has a much lower tone with less sustain, especially strings 1-3. Whether I'm finger picking or strumming I find myself playing the C-40 much more often because it is so much wider, and I've come to enjoy the sound much more than the Ibanez also over time. My hands are similar in shape/size to yours but I find myself muting or buzzing the A and high E string quite a bit on the Ibanez but nothing similar on the Yamaha. Maybe it's just an accuracy thing? Lazy playing?

1 3/4" is barely over 1 11/16".... nut slot depth make a difference in how 'easy' an action feels. The nut slots and the neck relief are important as is the saddle height and intonation

I prefer wider neck with at least 45mm nut. My hands are small and not skinny. For me it makes a big difference especially when your playing chords closer to the nut. If the space between the strings are too close then my fingers will either mute an adjacent string or cause a high pitched buzz just from a slight touch of another finger. I think if all manufacturers maximize the space in a 45mm nut then it should work but I've seen too many times the same size nut with less spacing. That is poor workmanship.

I like a 1 5/8 or even 1 11/16 but it is more so about the nut width than actual neck width. As long as the nut width doesn’t cause me to vibrato off the neck, I’m good. I also play a 7 string with almost 2 inch neck width and love it. No issues. But if I play a narrow nut with a 1 5/8 I end up with muting strings and hands get tired more easily. It’s weird. My hands are average but slim long fingers. My fingertips are thicker but still average I would say. I just pay better with wider specs

1 11/16 or 43 mm : string can slip of the fretboard when playing around 7th fret and up. Try playing fingerstyle on such a narrow space : finger obstruction. Ever wondered why classical en spanish guitars have such a wide nut/fretboard ? I have slender fingers. Maybe its good for fast flatpicking solos, but anything less than 44mm (1 23/32) is a no go for me.

i find 1,3/4 perfect......my nails cut shortest are same level as my fingertips....so my fingers are angled back slightly when playing, needing a bit more room between strings or i get string dampening.. guess others have this too.. i have been playing 44 years

I once played a Martin oo-28vs. 1 7/8" nut. 2 3/8" string spacing at the saddle. I wish I had that guitar. I absolutely loved that setup. I play fingerstyle and sometimes use classical style tremolo technique. The extra space between the strings allowed me play clean and clear on the inside strings without touching a neighboring string unintentionally. For strumming chords and flat picking bluegrass and jazz style, it would not be ideal. For intricate fingerstyle playing, it is wonderful. I wish more guitar manufacturers would make wide nut guitars. The nut be width is only part of the equation. The string spacing at the saddle is just important. Think of the highly technical playing that classical players do. Much of that would be much more difficult to impossible on a guitar with narrow string spacing. Until you become proficient in fingerstyle, this is something that is difficult to comprehend. I have played guitar for over 30 years and this is something that I started notice about a year ago. All my guitars have a 1 3/4" nut. Now I want a steel-string guitar with 1 13/16" or 1 7/8" nut. Saddly, there are not many of these in existence. This is because 1 3/4" nut width is a happy compromise that works for most people. It will accommodate most styles of playing for most people. The shape and size of a person's hands does factor in, but the more specialized someone becomes with their music, they find that certain neck widths and profiles work better for their style. By the way, I also play mandolin. Much different style from fingerstyle guitar.

Most high end guitars are built with 1 3/4 standard spacing now days. I much prefer this to a 1-11/16 and yes very noticeable. Even better i feel, is a 1-13/16" nut but these are hard to find and almost always on very high end guitars such as Collings, and top tier/custom Santa cruz, Martin etc. These generally have 2-5/16" spacing at the bridge, which in combination with the wider nut spacing is outstanding for finger style. I had an accident years ago that left my fret hand index finger fused and unable to bend at the last knuckle, so I've learned to hold a steel string dread in the same manner as a classical guitar in order to wrap my wrist enough around the neck to access the strings without buzzing my index digit. Needless to say 1 3/4" nut is as narrow as I can cleanly play and 1-13/16" suits me perfectly. Prior to my injury I only played guitars with a 1-13/16" nut and I even loved a 1-5/8" electric, which I can still play smoothly.... so long as i have a capo on the 3rd or 4th fret haha. In my opinion the most important and misunderstood factor for enjoying a guitar is nut width/string pacing, and 1/16" can feel like a mile to a discerning human hand.

I do have this problem! I didn't know that I had it, too, which is a shame. I found out when I upgraded my old beater guitar to brand new expensive Martin, then I ran into hardship trying to get clean, full chords out of the Martin. It turned out that my old guitar has a 1 3/4" nut, the Martin has a 1 11/16". Certain chords, especially ironically the "Cowboy" open chords, supposedly the easiest, are the hardest for me to play clean on the Martin. My stubby fingers will dampen strings. Ironically, as I go up the neck and into barre chords and non-open string chords, I have no problem. It's only the "easy" open chords that are hard. I find that really puzzling, but that's what happens. Oh, and I can play ukulele with none of these issues (although I don't have a soprano and never tried one, I have a larger concert uke). So it came as a surpise and for me a puzzle!

I am a child of the Jinn and have inherited their large finger tip bones. There is no way that I can press a string on a standard electric guitar without touching one of the adjacent strings. My finger tips are just too big. A six string bass with a 2 inch nut is no problem for me, but any smaller (like Carvin) is too tight. I have recently found out about Big Lou's wide nut guitars and am hoping that I will be able to play a guitar with a 2 inch nut. I can definitely see that 1/16 of an inch might be make or break for that customer.

I got back into guitar playing during COVID after a twenty something year absence. Same problems as before, my fat finger tips keep muting out the string adjacent to the sting I'm playing. So I got a custom 1 7/8in nut neck and all the problems went away. Now I'm 5foot 11inches, and I don't have especially large hands (I wear xl size gloves, but that's a common enough size) but I do have what some people call climbers fingers. My finger pads are large and flexible, good for grasping objects not so good at getting in narrow gaps. I take an American size 12 for shoes and I understand that's kind of a large foot for 5, 11, so maybe that's part of it?

Well done brother

Nut width and scale length importance are what a bunch of affordable guitars have taught me. 24" scale like Jaguar or Mustang electrics are a wet dream to play. When you get older it's even more of a big deal. I just ordered a Cordoba Cadete because of it's 615mm scale and 48mm nut width, because my hands love the shortscale. I'm 6'1" age 66. I hope to play for many years. The CV Squire Jag was my first with 24" scale....I have flatwounds on it. So good I found a IYV Mustang copy people like, it's coming too, and a Gretch "Jim Dandy", acoustic steel..24" scale...and now the Cadete (24.2"), because I do like the nylon Guitars. There is also the Fender CN-60S, but that nut is 42mm, which, for nylon I think is over the top., and the scale is 25.5. I'll play other guitars but....if this quiver sounds good...I might do some selling LOL TLDR: Nuts matter....Scale length even more.

I have a 70s 12 string , a regular Martin acoustic and a les Paul electric, and I can play them all the same for extended time periods. Obviously the electric is easier then the 12 strings big neck but it doesn’t effect my playing. But I’ve often heard people say they only play electric or only play acoustic. Again I’ve never had any issues playing either one comfortably. Maybe it’s because I learned on acoustic. And played electrics a little here and there.

i have long thick fingers, started on classical. 2" nut minimum for chords

I’ve gotten used to fender 1.65 and 1.685 necks but whenever I play a Gibson with a D shape, flat and wide neck I’m suddenly a better player (it seems) and it feels great. I have long fingers and maybe it’s string spacing vs nut width- IDK. But flat, shallow, wide nut necks matter -“ make or break”. I don’t like Gibson otherwise, so I’m thinking of putting a replacement 1.75 neck on my tele. I imagine this would look kind of awkward. Anyone used a warmouth wide neck on a tele? OR know of fenders w a wider nut than 1.685 Great video- thanks

5mm on the width length that equals 1 11/16 is difficult to play but if I use a thinning set of strings 47/10 I can get thru a set or song.

My old fingers need 1 3/4., my classical is 2” at the nut and it’s fine with those thick strings, but a steel string that’s 1 11/16 better have the lowest action possible, or I play like a child making sure my fingers are placed perfectly. But with 1 3/4 or 1 13/16 makes me confident. People ask me how that little extra string spacing makes a difference. You got me ??? but it sure does

I have pretty average size hands and still prefer 1 3/4 inch nut with wider string spacing. I have a Gretsch 1959 6122 Chet Atkins with 1 3/4 inch. I have a Fender Strat and a Tele each with Warmoth 1 3/4 nut widths and a Taylor 714CE with the same nut width. I am not a very accurate player, I guess you would say sloppy and the extra string spacing really helps me a lot. Just bought a Gibson ES 335 which is suppose to have a 1.695 inch nut and when it came at about 1.675 I was really bummed and am trying to get used to it.

I agree that there is a significant demand for a 1 7/8 nut on a steel string guitar. If I play a 1 3/4 nut width I usually put a capo on the second fret so I don’t get string buzz with my fat finger tips.

Hello, I have not only a big hand, my fingers are wider than most, I contributed that to a life long of working in wood work. I find it very difficult to play a 1 11/16 width. I own several guitars with the 1 3/4 but I still am not happy. I like the ole pre war blues style of finger picking. Eastman and Gibson's parlor guitars have a 1 13/16 nut, Martin's parlor has a 1 7/8 nut that would for me be great, but that guitar is out of my price range. Blueridge's parlor is also a 1 7/8 however they are known for poor craftsmen ship with several different problems. So I am still looking around for other makes that offer a wider neck for my style of playing.

'I'm beginner and played 2 months on Yamaha FG800M. With a Nud width 43mm. Its fine for strummling, but I usually have a problems by trying notes playing on higher freds, like 7+ (My fingertip is touching a string from below) Last week I went to the store and tryed Taylors: 214ce (42.8mm) and 814ce (44.5mm). - 214ce: I had the same problem as on my Yamaha. - 814ce: It was noticable more space and more convinient to play and not touching the nearest string on 7+ Frets, BUT here we come to the downside aswell. Every mm counts for my not trained fingers. Pro guitarist don't have this issue in comparison with beginners. I already have problems in stretching my fingers between multiple freds with 43mm nut, so you can imagine, that 44.5m is more painful for me in that aspect. As conclusion. 43mm vs 44.5mm - you have to test it based on your finger size and stretching skill. I figured it out another solution in my case. I ordered a Seagull guitar, which has 43.7mm Nut width. Exactly in the middle! :D Will see in 2 days if it worked well... P.S. I have average hand, but palm size is longer, than my fingers. And for guitar, it's not as good as vise versa.

Check into Big lou gutiars they have 1/78thsinch or 2 inch and 2/78 inch nut width gutiars and necks❤

I belive ukaleily hace 4 strings ?

I have a 1-3/4 Tele neck. I'm wondering if I can shave it down to 1-11/16 or 1-5/8 on my belt sander without removing the stainless frets.

My fingers are to big from working with them for 30 years in the construction business. I used to be able to play any guitar. Just picked up my old oscar schmidt and couldn't play it.

that ukulele is floating in the background.

All things considered I feel like I could play my best at 13/16 Inch or wider. I realize that this standard severely limits my options when it comes to steel string guitars, but if I'm going to pay $1000 or perhaps a good deal more for a guitar, I'm just not going to settle for a guitar that is going to be working against me when I'm playing at the bottom of the neck.

Wider neck adds to a nicer tone imo

The nut width alone doesn't really dictate what I prefer or not. The neck shape, scale length and fretboard radius affect that too. Here is a rundown of my solid body electrics and some of the specs, and wether or not I like the nut width: - Fender Stratocaster with 1-11/16" (43mm) or 1-3/4" (44mm) nut, 9-1/2" radius, 25-1/2" scale length, modern C shape neck => I find the nut slightly too wide, would like to try 1.650" (42mm) if I could - Godin Session with 1.650" (42mm) nut, 12" radius, 25-1/2" scale length, modern C shape neck => love the nut width - 3 x Godin LG with 1-11/16" (43mm) nut, 16" radius, 24-3/4" scale length, modern C shape neck => love the nut width - Jackson Crackle replica with 1-5/8" (41mm) nut, 9-1/2" radius, 25-1/2" scale length, wizard profile neck => I hate this nut width and neck

Simply solution at last! I have bought and Ibanez Wide Neck acoustic guitar. Lovely instrument and at last no bloody buzzing.... What’s the matter with those other manufactures! Give players what they need - wider string spacings - even for slimmer fingers! Martyn Haulkham.

Playing technique and preferred music styles enter into this as well. And it isn't all about left-hand comfort. Narrower string spacing is favored by flat-pick strummers and shredders. Having less space between strings could make it a little bit faster to move from one string to another. Fingerpickers almost always want something that's at least 45mm (1 3/4") to avoid the feeling of being cramped over the soundhole and to minimize the likelihood of accidentally knicking an adjacent string with a fingernail. Higher-tension strings have a smaller orbit of oscillation and won't require as much fretboard real estate as low-tension strings. Crossover players who play a lot of nylon string will probably not want to go below 48mm on a steel string. I myself prefer 50mm for a steel-string nut width. Past experience with different instruments you've played always looms large in personal selection criteria. And I don't really buy the comparison with uke or mandolin neck width. Playing technique is entirely different on those instruments. How often do you play barre chords in 10th position on a uke? At any rate, when spending hundreds or thousands of dollars on a guitar you'll be spending hundreds of hours a year with over a number of decades, the question isn't "will this suffice for now?" The question is "is this what I believe is OPTIMAL for me?" If you're an accurate player, 1mm is a HUGE distance on an instrument fingerboard.

Guitar companies can make seven string guitars which require wider necks but they can't make six string wide neck guitars for those of us with thick fingers?That makes no kind of sense what so ever.I had to order a guitar with a 51mm wide neck from China because I called Fender and other guitar companies that brag about making custom guitars but told me that they cannot accommodate my request,go figure.

Hi flowforth. Yeah i had problems with a yamaha i had, it had a skinny neck and the action was raised a little not too much but my fingers kept touching strings behind the ones i was fretting and muting them. I prefer a bit wider and flatter neck. Also scale length is important you can have lower action and no buzzing on a longer scale. Good topics

I find it very very interesting that higher end guitars have wider string spacing

I wonder what he would want for a nut width on a seven string guitar!

Big guy, just learning 3 months in to minimum 1hr day practice and sing at least that. Singing has really progressed, guitar is taking forever. Both guitars 1 and 11 but 1 has 4 mm more at hole. I finger style mostly and can play the wider in my sleep. I am terrible with the other hitting wrong strings slightly, my fingers do not fit with any depth. Fractions of mm seem like miles. At the 2cnd fret, A, it's horrible on both. My tips are well callused, I stretch them daily. I talk with experienced guitarist who learned in childhood and they don't understand. I have a lot to learn but I don't understand why someone wouldn't think it quicker to learn with wider nut widths, a nanometer matters if u r contacting wrong string. It's the hardest part of learning. I am looking at Seaguls 48mm nuts and was thinking about getting a 12string and only using 6 but I guess there is more tension. I'm frustrated and that's why I watched your video.

Huge differences. I m taking my guitar back to the store. My fat fingers do not fit and every 16th helps .

I love how you move as a metronome when you speak...

I really wish someone would make a 41 mm (1 5/8") neck on acoustics. For us small handed, short fingered ppl.... it really is a battle reaching over to thumb mute the low E string. I can't believe NO ONE makes these.

I have taylor gc7 with a 1 3/4 nut width, great for fingerpicking , hate to strum it... the Ovation is a 1 11/16 and is the opposite, can't finger pick it at all, but love it for strumming.... your question at 2:55 is exactly what I would ask a guitar store person also..... thanks for the info PEACE

Use metric. 44 mm is very good.

42.8mm = 1. 11/16inches

Check out Big lou guitars... That all he makes is wide nut steel string guitars... Check him out...I've got 4 of them...

Tighter is better for me.

Long slender piano player hands and fingers here. Just sayin'. So, in my experience, nut width is only part of the equation with respect to string width comfort. Yes, I am one of the slow learners who accidentally stumbled across the variance in the overall string width at the bridge on a Stratocaster. Here's my story. (Please click "Read more".) I unintentionally and unknowingly bought an inexpensive Korean Squier Strat with 2-7/32" overall string width at the bridge that quickly became my go-to Strat because it was easier for me to play. I did not know why it felt right for me and I was clueless. It was mysterious because comparative measurements between the two Strats were identical. -The nut width was the same as my other Strat. -The neck radius was the same. -The string height was the same. -The relief measurement was the the same. But months later while searching for a Stratocaster bridge upgrade, I learned that there is a choice of either a 2-1/8" or a 2-7/32" bridge string width at the bridge. What? Where is my caliper? Surprise! My first Strat had a 2-1/8" bridge. My new/old go-to Strat had a 2-7/32" bridge. Call me crazy, but the increase of only 3/32" overall string width at the bridge with an approximate increase of only about 0.5mm between strings is vastly more comfortable for me. In addition-check this out-I can install a 2-7/32" bridge on a Strat that was built with a 2-1/8" bridge and for me that Strat becomes comfortable. Oh, well. I ignore nut width on a Strat and focus on bridge string width. But, I know nothing about the bridge string width on acoustic guitars. I only know that some people are never satisfied. :)

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