When Hats were Illegal: Sewing a Goth Edwardian Hat

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Let's start digging in to the 1910s with a look at hats! I'm starting a thorough project of reproducing the most epic dark gothic dress from 1914, and it needs ALL of the accessories to go with it. So we're digging out the millinery buckram for once and getting to work on making some headwear. Since this era is a little outside of my previous experience with millinery, I acquired a similar antique hat to use as source material for construction techniques.
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🖼 Fiskehats: archive.org/details/dgrstyle1...
🖼 Spring styles: archive.org/details/dgrstyle1...
🖼 Le Style Parisien: digital.bunka.ac.jp/kichosho_...
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🖼 De Gracieuse: libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...
🖼 Les Formes Nouvelles: artsdecoratifs.e-sezhame.fr/se...
🖼 B/W Hat: libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...
🖼 Green Hat: libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...
Federal Migratory Bird Treaty Act: www.fws.gov/birds/management/...
Audubon Society:www.audubon.org/
Recent News on FMBTA: www.audubon.org/news/rollback...
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Опубликовано:

20 фев 2021

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Комментарии : 245

@knittingmoose 3 года назад

Nicole: Hats aren't my specialty and I don't know that much about making them Nicole: *makes the most gorgeous hat and I want it*

@sebastiandemimonde1896 3 года назад

I'm vibing with this "at your life-long enemy's funeral" look and I await your progress. 🖤

@mirjanbouma 3 года назад

Oh that's a great way to describe it, especially with the expression she has at the start of showing it off.

@ReisigSeeds 3 года назад

Can we just take a moment to appreciate the fact that Nicole can freehand a perfect circle? Because, damn.

@k80_ 3 года назад

It’s all about drawing with your whole arm instead of sketching with your hand/ fingers only!

@faameexplains1192 3 года назад

Rotate from the shoulder

@biguattipoptropica 3 года назад

@@faameexplains1192 you still have to practice it for a while though

@brucetidwell7715 3 года назад

You have to get your brain out of the way and just let your eyes and hand do it without thinking too hard, getting tense, and second guessing yourself. But it does take practice.

@toericabaker 3 года назад

she didnt use her shoulder as the axis, the circle wouldve been like 5 ft wide she planted the heel of the hand on the paper, and used that as the axis... Also she drew guidelines so thats not freehand WEEHHEHEHEEEE LOOK MA, IM A PEDANT

@cincocats320 3 года назад

Thanks for talking about the history behind the use of feathers and the effects. It is really important that the history behind why we have environmental protection laws in place be remembered so that they aren't gutted. I love this project. Can't wait to see you recreate the vamp collar. I've been obsessed with it.

@adoptedbythe1king 3 года назад

Made my husband laugh out loud when he asked me what I was watching and without missing a beat I said "the history of the regulation of migratory bird feathers in north america." 😅 This hat is lovely! I don't know exactly what it was, but at the end when you started moving towards the camera my brain suddenly thought you had switched places with Morgan Donner and then back to you again. 😅

@dvlvd 3 года назад

Not to detract from the loveliness of this hat, but I got ridiculously excited when you revealed you were going to remake that dress! The collar! The embroidery! :D

@eviebraud1307 2 года назад

The draping :D

@ruthmeow4262 3 года назад

I love hats, they need to come back. I constantly wear my mom's hat that she wore while a teacher in the 60's.

@k80_ 3 года назад

Hats and capes. Why did we ditch them???

@nicnaknoc 3 года назад

Agreed - now we are a movement, with a mission 🎩👒

@Lolibeth 3 года назад

@@k80_ Car safety headrests and increased informality

@undecidedgenius 3 года назад

@@k80_ allot of people still wear hats...the fedora may have been replaced with a baseball cap, some people wear cowboy hats, bucket hats, etc. However, we definitely do not wear them as much as we used to. I think the biggest reason (aside from what Elizabeth mentioned) is we are just not outside as much as we used to be. We go from our house to our car, our car to our job, etc...you may be outside for a couple of hours doing your lawn...but no where as much as we used to. Last summer I was part of a campaign drive for our state. Long hours outside in the sun Just about every person by their third day was wearing a hat of some type. It does not take long to figure out that even the nicest days required shade for your head...even if they had a full head of hair. (loved the job though...do it again, if I could)

@ah5721 3 года назад

@@Lolibeth headrests are the devil when wearing hats in cars! The shorter the brim in back the better when riding in a car.

@robbiecrafter 3 года назад

You chose a good "theme' tune. The moment your notification pops up on my screen I start hearing it and it continually loops in my head until I stop what I'm doing and watch it!

@mistyazaleski6542 2 года назад

Same

@QueenCityHistory 3 года назад

The 1910s are such a fantastic and very overlooked decade when it comes to fashion. It was that gorgeous mix of turn of the century Victorian /Edwardian frilliness transitioning into the shorter more relaxed clothes of the 1920s. Always been my favorite decade...especially after 1914 to about 1922

@deniseyoung3738 3 года назад

I am beginning to think you had the coolest Grandma ever! It is so great you get to use her things in your work! Great hat, can't wait to see the whole outfit!

@bobbibuttons8730 3 года назад

Gosh, is there anything you can’t wear and not look stunningly beautiful. Shame I could be your grandma lol

@susanhillis5952 3 года назад

This hat is ridiculous, I’m delighted by how much joy it’s clearly giving you

@juliemeanor6531 3 года назад

Beautiful. Do you ever put your name or a message inside your creations, for future fashion historian s to find?

@reeree6682 Год назад

A most excellent idea!

@ReisigSeeds 3 года назад

I find it sad that hats are not commonly worn outside of, perhaps, Texas where the cowboy hat is considered working and formal attire. I do know there are a few masters in Texas who make cowboy hats to order and I’ve often wanted to just go and watch. Millinery, sadly, is nearly a lost art.

@whiteedk 3 года назад

Me to, ever since I was a teen I have wished that old fashioned hats came into fashion again... sadly it haven’t. And I am way to self conscious to just wear a hat

@lisasmith516 3 года назад

Live your Life! Stupid people are everywhere. A hat is protective and very interesting. I wore one all the time, different ones, depending...lots of "haters, mockers or just plain jealous...idiots" to deal with, but lots of positive experiences too! Particularly Texas women around Houston MetroPlex Cities area were jerks, strangely...Lisa Rousseau.

@brucetidwell7715 3 года назад

Millinery is still very much a "thing" among the Black church lady community but almost nowhere else.

@andreaclough44 3 года назад

The more of us who wear our hats out the more people will be encouraged to do the same, or at least think it’s not weird. You might even be stopped, as I have been, to be complimented on looking stylish.

@carlistar27 2 года назад

Sun hats thankfully never truly died here in Texas…. They just reduced in number. I have a few different ones with different trims and decorations I can add depending on the outfit of the day. Little by little trying to rebuild hat wearing culture

@eulerizeit 3 года назад

I appreciate the feather talk. I didn't know.

@lajoyous1568 3 года назад

"That's some bad hat Harry" 🤠 Actually I love it.

@LtSarai 3 года назад

You and the Closet Historian over here just. Making hats for specific goth outfits like it's fucking nothing. XD

@deborahduthie4519 3 года назад

I bet your Grandmother smiles every time you use her blocks and you achieve what you design to achieve. Another excellent tutorial. Thankyou. I love that piping detail around the cap to the broadsides.🎩

@Hair8Metal8Karen 3 года назад

After watching Nicole, Abby, Bernadette and Morgan, I've fallen in love with hand sewing. I'm hardly using my machine anymore.

@paganodesignworks 3 года назад

There are very few people whose videos I watch at normal speed...yours top my list. So much good info, presented beautifully. You are a treasure!

@MisSiszY 3 года назад

Fabulous as always. And you make it look so bloody easy too! "Oh I'll just casually master this new skill, no worries."

@Hair8Metal8Karen 3 года назад

Right? Hats, shoes, jackets, corsets, parasols... What can't she do?

@anjaderuiter6975 3 года назад

As a child in the late 1950s, my mother and her friends would not leave the house without a hat and a pair of gloves. When I got older and discovered thrift stores, I would always look for hats, souvenir scarves, and gloves. The gloves were just beautiful and came in so many colors and lengths and cost almost nothing. I also started collecting hat and glove patterns, never realizing just how much skill was needed to make these one-time everyday items.

@tedthetailor8422 3 года назад

I am Living for this hat. Well done! Its making me want to yank out my old millinery supplies and make something!!!

@annapettit8045 3 года назад

Yes! The spooky witchy garment 😍

@robinhahnsopran 3 года назад

That hat is STUNNING and looks amazing on you! Can't wait for the rest of the series, because the final ensemble is gonna be GORGEOUS!

@owlislike 3 года назад

SO. EXCITED. ABOUT. THIS. SERIES. ( ps. If anyone wants a deep dive into the hat feather scandal during the late 1800s and early 1900s the podcast "Dressed: The History of Fashion" has a fantastic episode )

@tarafoley6030 3 года назад

Again ... Beautifully done! Your demos put me to shame. Having been a dress maker, milliner, jewellery maker, costumer for the theatre program of our local university, etc ... I have yet, outside of some family members, demonstrated the processes & skills needed to produce the desired object. You work in very much the same way I do. My mantra is: "If if could be made before, it can be made again. If I want to tweak it, I can." Congratulations on your very successful recreations, new designs & flat out Flare/Style. 💥

@whitewitch32 3 года назад

My sister is a milliner by training, she doesn't work in fashion but I'm sure she didn't forgot her craft.

@ah5721 3 года назад

How did she get her start?

@whitewitch32 3 года назад

@@ah5721 She go to school which trained Milliners, unfortunately this sort of schools in Poland are shut now

@rachelfloyd5865 3 года назад

That is beautiful!!! I love black hats with feathers and this one is so elegant and very well constructed! Thank you for such a quality demonstration of vintage technic. I love love love your videos!!

@katherinethegreat508 3 года назад

Absolutely stunning hat, I'd say I can't believe you made it but you've been blowing us away with your creations for a while now so it seems totally normal to expect magnificence from you. Can't wait to see the next part of the ensemble!!

@reeree6682 Год назад

My family were milliners since time began. It actually ended with me. I can remember being VERY little and giving a blank felt and glue and access to bags and bags of feathers. Then...the 60's happened. No real hat wearing...the 70's and really through the present, verrrry little hat making taking place. The turban and headbands and the occasion festive Sunday hat permeated the "market". A shame, really. That being said, you, child of God, have done more than justice to the execution of this project. You have created a masterpiece and wear it beautifully! Thanks for bringing a tradition into the light for all to enjoy.

@camillamcarthur 3 года назад

I wanted a goofy hat in this sort of shape for a very long time and I'm so glad it doesn't seem as crazy difficult as I've always assumed it would be. Thank you for sharing your knowledge

@ColorwaveCraftsCo 3 года назад

I could never imagine myself doing something like this, but I love watching you make all of these unique items!! I'm a history nerd, so my favorite part is learning the history of the garments and then seeing the process of reproducing them 😊

@ashleejones1690 3 года назад

Ohmygosh you're going to make THAT dress?? **excitement intensifies**

@normanshadow1 3 года назад

Its so wonderful to see careful handstitching. It gives me sense of what it takes to do something well

@wiggle_duck9063 3 года назад

This makes me want to finish the tiny top hat I started making in a workshop just before the first UK lockdown - I feel like I could figure it out now :) Thanks for the education and inspiration! I've never seen velvet with a pile so long, crushed or otherwise; you learn something new every day! The teens had some fascinatingly wacky headgear going on

@alaskacosplay 3 года назад

I really wish large brimmed hats were back in style. The gorgeous styles of the fashionable 1950s and everything before that are absolutely stunning and I would absolutely wear a hat like that. Hats are really are really practical and stylish.

@ragnkja 3 года назад

The only way to get the Muggles used to seeing such styles out and about is to wear them. :)

@alaskacosplay 3 года назад

Nillie I do wear long wigs with some sort of elaborate hairstyle or a massive bow with two foot long tails while wearing an all black outfit. Muggles would normally just look at me and I think girls would envy an all black look with an elaborate hairstyle fit for a Lady.

@loraleitourtillottwiehr2473 3 года назад

I've been wanting to make a 1905-1908 style hat but have zero of the necessary skills (beyond sewing). Watching this made me feel like I could maybe actually do it!

@anonymousperson4214 3 года назад

Wow. Just wow. Also, I loved the cute little dancing vampire at the end :)

@archionblu 3 года назад

I am gobsmacked. I'm not really a 'hat person', so I've never really looked into how they're made. They're so complicated! The result is gorgeous. Also, re: the ending, YOU ARE FREAKING ADORABLE your little giggle and nose wrinkle laughing at your own silliness is the cutest and most relatable thing

@Trufriend61 3 года назад

This was absolutely wonderful to watch! Thank you Nicole! As a novice milliner, I love to see videos like this, hoping more people will become interested in hats again!

@jeanetterule5420 3 года назад

Just stunningly in a bold and funny way. The height is almost clownish but the brim and feather are jaunty and elegant. Very marvelous. And the tiny stitches, amazing. Thank you for this...

@mcomeslast 3 года назад

Except for sewing a vintage headband, I haven’t made hats either. I have been collecting photos of Grace Kelly’s Juliette cap. The one from her civil wedding. I found some photos that show the structure because the fabric in the back is sheer. It’s actually two layers! Love the idea of making the trims pinnable as that makes it easier to update the hat.

@rejoyce318 3 года назад

I have a couple of (half/headband) hats from the same era that belonged to my mom.

@merriehightower1481 3 года назад

Thank you for the feather history, I wondered why they stopped using all those fancy feathers. I did know that it was causing extinction of many birds, I didn’t know about the law to protect them . Loved watching you make the hat. I can’t wait to see the entire outfit 🥰

@clarestebbing2901 3 года назад

You do not disappoint. Informative and calming. Thx.

@spazarific 3 года назад

This turned out amazing! Could the oval on the lining be slightly smaller to help add tension and prevent the hat from dropping down if your hairstyle is changed to something smaller or say someone with a smaller head were to wear the hat?

@michelleneumann2413 3 года назад

That hat is incredibly beautiful. I love it! My grandmother had one in a similar style. Too neat!!!

@normanshadow1 3 года назад

Wow, and I thought I was ambitious making a pair of barbie doll socks and shorts today!

@MicheleLHarvey 3 года назад

Nicole, you ARE an absolute inspiration! This entire project is beyond belief! Hats? Shoes? Edwardian Vampy Witchy spectacularly detailed outfit? No problem! You are a wonder, girl! Thanks for all the delicious & inspiring videos!

@Honey_Daddy 2 года назад

I am into roughly 0 antique fashions, crafts or anything related to all of this, but I have a deep love of watching things created from scratch, so I find this all very stimulating nonetheless. I guess I come to see how materials ended up looking legitimately like an antique hat. While none of my interests are relevant, I the talent and skill is undeniable.

@brissygirl4997 3 года назад

Nicole if you ever wanted to delve further into millinery repollock on instagram is a millinery teacher. She usually does a livestream about once a week and often has pieces that are from her own collection, that she had made or her students have made and I believe she has some vintage/antique pieces as well. You did a fantastic job as always!

@lisafisk2826 3 года назад

Having never had any idea about hats of my grandmother (I have about a dozen from the 30s and 40s), I now have so much more appreciation for the milliners who made them. You make some amazing pieces! The more I see, the more I not only appreciate your skills and talents, but also the skills and talents of everyone who has ever attempted this! Please keep up the amazing work! Your talent is amazing and a gift.

@baralinni79 3 года назад

The hat is stunning, looking forward to the rest of the series!

@bowerbirdstyle7661 3 года назад

The hat turned out beautifully and dark hair really suits you.

@marcellacruser951 3 года назад

I'm in awe. I'm not a high-crown fan by inclination, but by the end of your video, I was in love! Perfection! And a sincere thank you for for explaining the Migratory Waterfowl Act so thoroughly.. Not many people outside of the Range Ecology community ever get taught why bird conservation/market hunting laws were enacted. Bless you for that!

@babyg285 3 года назад

I'm crocheting my very first hat while watching you make your first hat! Yay hats!

@___LC___ 3 года назад

I have so many illegal feathers...I am a gardener and don’t like to throw away beautiful found treasures.

@agimagi2158 3 года назад

I love the part when you are talking about the problems with feathers and what impact the situation had on upcoming fashion eras! Your hat turned out beautiful, I always wondered how those fancy wavy brims are made!

@madeleinerose7090 3 года назад

Gorgeous! That beautiful ‘velvet’ looks like a sheared fur. This hat is just stunning! As usual, the entire video is ASMR heaven. 🥰

@debrab8109 3 года назад

Nicole you do beautiful work and your attention to detail impeccable. The only thing you missed was sewing your own label into the hat, Blaylock & Blynn, Philadelphia would be proud.

@j.t.w.stevenson2453 3 года назад

1914 - great year for hats, bad year for Austrian Archdukes! Lovely video, really interesting (as always)!

@Barblooms 3 года назад

I loved watching this beautiful hat appear from the magic you work with needle and thread. It’s stunning, in the understated way that won’t overpower that dress. Thanks for reminding folks what an impact we can have on life around us - both bad and good. I remember when the very symbol of this country was near extinction, and marvel when I see a real live wild Bald Eagle. I bet you didn’t guess I’m an Audubon member! 😃

@EmeraldVideosNL 3 года назад

Vampy goth YAS!! Totally my aesthetic. Loved the gown when you and Abby looked at it. Bring it on, I'm so going to enjoy this series!💜

@lisam5744 3 года назад

I knew hats were complicated to make. Just not THIS complicated! Wow! Although she makes it look simple and easily done. Great job.

@adorothyinkansas4392 3 года назад

Watching videos of you explaining what your books say would be wonderful!

@krysil1221 3 года назад

And now I want to make hats. LOL!

@kelstew3 3 года назад

Nicole I’m gonna need you to do more hats 👒

@elenavitali9818 3 года назад

I haven't even watched it yet and I already know I'm going to love it.!!

@k1tkat-kate 3 года назад

The detail of the angled brim is so neat!

@adorothyinkansas4392 3 года назад

I am here Alll DAY for this!💥💣🧦👜👒🎩🕸🖤❣

@hypatia4754 3 года назад

So well done!

@catzkeet4860 3 года назад

Whoa, that panne looks like fur fabric with that length of pile!!

@NicoleRudolph 3 года назад

It basically is! I bought it from a teddy bear supply shop

@ah5721 3 года назад

Watching you and the music you choose is magical and relaxing 🥰😊. Thank you for providing wonderful content ! I treat myself to your sewing after doing my labor intensive homework.

@OriginalAfrocentricDesignbyLis 3 года назад

I recently started back making cloth hats, mostly baseball, newsboy, big apple caps and bucket and top hats. I have been using craft and buckram interfacing. Buckram is new to me. It is a pleasure to see you make and cover a buckram base. Also wire for the brim is new to me. I have used boning on the top of an African inspired crown (hat). I was going to ask what kind of wire is that. But I can hear you saying "millinery wire"... Thank you for this video. It is well made and informative‼️ 👍 😊 💗

@loverizzato9081 3 года назад

It's so very you. Breathtakingly elegant!

@calicolyon 3 года назад

Love this series ❤️❤️❤️

@studious_nonchalance 3 года назад

This is GLORIOUS! Ironically, I started on a 1910s Toque out of cabbage from my Reform dress on Thursday and I SO could have used this knowledge!

@studious_nonchalance 3 года назад

I am pleased tho to have learned some techniques to improve my effort in future!

@user-nv4mx4xz5u 3 года назад

I am planning on making a toque hat!I know that this may sound silly but did you have a pattern?I have been looking for a good pattern and they are all discontinued.I want to draft one myself but l can't wrap my head around it

@studious_nonchalance 3 года назад

@@user-nv4mx4xz5u I don't, unfortunately. I just took some rectangle off cuts of fabric that looked promising and kinda made an oversized and oval-ish pillbox with a buckram interfacing . It's a softer kind than this one Nicole used I think. I just kinda made it up. My insta is @absherianisma if you want to see what I mean/roast my hat making attempt!

@studious_nonchalance 3 года назад

Also, I just wrapped the pieces around my head til it looked right , then pinned it in place and tried it on again to make sure it lined up well. I don't know how to draft yet.

@user-nv4mx4xz5u 3 года назад

That was actually quite helpful!!!I unfortunately don't have Instagram but again thank you so much!!!!:)

@christikaboom 3 года назад

This turned out so gorgeous!!! Excellent work!

@RianShafer Год назад

Love it!

@pelicanformation3802 3 года назад

Love! Love! Love!

@anastasiav8492 3 года назад

Lovely!!

@denicehill2094 3 года назад

Splendid work!

@fixxundfertig 3 года назад

Stunning. Terrific job!

@erinrabideau3691 3 года назад

Gorgeous!!! It’s amazing to watch you create!!

@toyline00 3 года назад

I like all the research, background and details you add to your work. Lovely hat, cute grizzly bear at the end too!

@lindateller9325 3 года назад

Just wow!

@fatsparrowsewing 3 года назад

I'm currently trying to make a witch sunhat and have been very lucky to be given three rooster tail feathers from a friend who keeps chickens - totally underrated feather option! Slight iridescence, good body, and sizable enough to be seen but not so big you have to sew them down too much! Now I just have to finish the hat! Just as Summer ends here... 😑

@gkseeton 3 года назад

I just love watching you work. That hat is magnificent!

@madpenguinina 3 года назад

I'm so excited to see the whole look once the dress is done! Thank you for sharing the process with us

@PhotographtheBird 3 года назад

This was fascinating to watch. Thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge! Can’t wait to see it all come together

@loosegear4345 3 года назад

Very impressed!

@tiasoles2808 3 года назад

I'M SO EXCITED TO SEE THIS ALL TOGETHER!!!!

@bettyjotatum6115 3 года назад

I really like your historic information and admire your techniques. Well done! I say this from decades long background of sewing that includes a period of professional sewing. I am now retired from another kind of job and am an award winning art quilter. Thanks for presenting a very interesting number of videos! Cheers.