Remaking a Small Antique Coat to Fit Me!

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Often original garments and patterns aren't our perfect size. So how do we drastically adjust the measurements to fit? There are many different options, but for this coat we're testing out a less typical method. By using a tailors drafting manual of the era, we can see what a generic coat fit should be for the correct body measurements. From there, it's just merging the two patterns and proportionally grading up the details!
Thankfully, this coat pattern is fairly simple (even if it is covered in decorative stitching!). However, I hope to try this method again with more complex antique garments in the near future. Drafting manuals can seem intimidating, but they offer a valuable resource to understand how clothing ideally fit EVERY body, not just the "standard" body shape.
Socials
Instagram: / silk_and_buckram
Tiktok: / cloche_call
🖼 1908 Fashion Plate: gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt...
🖼 1907 Motor Coat: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1900s_i...
🖼 Childrens Coats: geheugen.delpher.nl/nl/geheug...
1908 Drafting Manual: archive.org/details/standardw...
UNL Collections: mediacommons.unl.edu/luna/ser...
Wool Broadcloth: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/coll...
Satin Lining: www.renaissancefabrics.net/pr...
Interfacings: www.etsy.com/shop/BiasBespoke
Witchy Vintage: witchyvintage.com/
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com)

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Опубликовано:

2 янв 2021

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Комментарии : 282

@AngelDivinity111 3 года назад

Proof that good tailoring and beautiful finishings and fabric never go out of style. This coat is so timeless and doesn't scream "I'm a 115 year old silhouette!"

@generalcorgi698 3 года назад

I love the hidden large pockets inside the small pocket, and I could imagine that that would start a lot of funny conversations, like pulling a huge phone from a teeny tiny pocket

@ragnkja 3 года назад

I love that too!

@stephaniemiller5049 3 года назад

Or snacks!

@hazeluzzell 3 года назад

Dr Who’s Police Pockets!

@camillaraymond3167 3 года назад

Very Mary Poppins!

@stevezytveld6585 3 года назад

A baguette. Please pull out a baguette.

@ms-rachel-anne 3 года назад

In my opinion, there are few sounds as satisfying as the hearty "snip, snip" of tight, sharp sewing shears.

@isaaqdoesstuff7623 2 года назад

Or the crisp rustling of silk! 😋

@annelewis7531 3 года назад

Wow Tardis Pockets bigger on the inside than on the outside. A great combination sewing pockets and Dr Who.

@rachaelhall1164 3 года назад

Between those sleeve heads and the pockets within pockets, this coat is a feat of engineering. Thanks for sharing with us

@devinbaggs7542 3 года назад

Welcome back to Sewing Masterpiece Theatre, this time for coats, and I am here for it!

@footprintwanderings 3 года назад

The sleeves, the lapels, the hidden pockets within pockets and above all all the ASMR my little sewing heart needs!

@michellecornum5856 3 года назад

SNEAKY POCKETS!!! I LOVE how this was very "Well, I needed to do X -- And I did." The moment this started, there was a tension -- and expectation, if you will, of "Oooh, crap, I know what's coming." But it didn't come. Very many of us have PTSD (Pattern Taking Stress Disorder) from having done this kind of thing, but you were very calm. Nothing was rushed, it was all ASMR, all very calm. Nicole Rudolph's Calm Sewing Training Course. I don't know what was more mesmerizing: the calm with which you did this, the patience and care taken in every stitch and fold, or the way these big assed shears come out and skillfully cut a smooth curve. These are sewing patience goals! BRAVO! Mme. Rudolph, Bravo.

@vincentbriggs1780 3 года назад

It's gorgeous! I absolutely love how dedicated you are to including every single detail, no matter how small or time consuming they are.

@alinefatturirodrigues1256 3 года назад

I honestly hope to achieve your level of sewing skills one day!! I honestly learn so much by just seeing how you work when making something!!! It looks beautiful! Plus the ASMR of you working the fabric, hand sewing it and the machine stitching is just ~ chef’s kiss ~

@adoptedbythe1king 3 года назад

This is exactly the comment I was going to make! Especially regarding ASMR. This video was medicine to my very tired strained self. I could feel my nerves and muscles relaxing as I watched. Thank you!!!

@rachelbyers8063 2 года назад

Never tire of watching you make coats…especially those with rows and rows of topstitching. Watching you is my therapy!!

@lieselemay 3 года назад

I love reverse engineering! It turned out sooo beautiful. All that top stitching was worth it. And that tid bit about the shoulder steaming/shaping was a total light bulb moment. Have a great day thanks as always for sharing. btw: I had a major epiphany about your medieval split sole shoe. I left you a message there, I hope you saw it.

@davecsaszarable 3 года назад

Your craft and dedication are unmatched. The voice, the hand gestures. It’s a pleasure watch your videos

@anastasiamaliuha5481 3 года назад

The robin egg blue and pale gold lining combination is exquisite and that top stitching is life😍

@TheMetatronGirl 3 года назад

Pockets of holding! Sorry, my nerd was showing. Good gracious, your stitching is so beautiful! The whole coat is gorgeous. I love the big pockets disguised as little pockets...I could have so much fun with that! Happy New Year, Nicole!

@loraleitourtillottwiehr2473 3 года назад

Oooh, I'm tempted to make this a thing in my next game! If only for wish fulfillment.

@Sleepingvampires 3 года назад

@@loraleitourtillottwiehr2473 D&D 3.5 Magic Item Compendium: Belt of Hidden Pouches.

@loraleitourtillottwiehr2473 3 года назад

@@Sleepingvampires awesome, thanks for the tip!

@adoptedbythe1king 3 года назад

I echo everyone else's comments about how lovely this whole video is. I also appreciate the final reveal both in historical get up AND in a modern context and showing how well it really works for both! 💝💝💝

@Annettobot 2 года назад

I mean it in the best way possible - Nicole makes me fall asleep. Her Videos are basically my type of ASMR. Love her for that ❤️

@mandylavida 3 года назад

I could watch you sew all day.

@AuthenticWe Год назад

As a quilter who's starting to make my own style and natural fiber garments, I love the miles of top stitching in this, because yes garment are time consuming, but 300 hour project on a machine with no hand stitching is also a lot 😂, but thank you and Ms Banner for teaching us how to proceed properly ❤

@catherinedelossantos7232 3 года назад

I love your attention to detail not only with your sewing projects, but in your editing. The music fits perfectly. I especially loved the song @14:45.

@sewwithmsjones1196 3 года назад

The sound of silk being cut, pinned, and stitched is just so lucious!

@kaytiej8311 3 года назад

The finesse and dexterity which you demostrate with the fabric is mesmerizing and soothing. Beautiful work.

@calicolyon 3 года назад

Beautiful idea for pockets to have pockets!

@jimbrittain402 3 года назад

I learn so much from you when you're simply chatting. Thank you.

@marciahighsmith4820 3 года назад

You’re very relaxing to watch sewing by hand.

@beckstheimpatient4135 3 года назад

As beautiful as your new/old coat is, your scissors truly make me want to cry. They are so beautiful, and sharp, and click so nicely and seem to fit your hand despite their weight x_x. Tools of the trade deserve so much love!

@dragonmakr2159 Год назад

I love that you prioritize (and use!) pockets like I do. It's so much harder to lose the things you need if you've got them in your coat or other pockets that are attached to you.

@ashleejones1690 3 года назад

As beautifully as the outside of the coat looks, I am 100% here for the inside! It may just be me living vicariously through others who can whip and fell nicely, all while looking like swans on a lake😅 The engineering aspect is really cool too💜

@lavadaroufs 3 года назад

This project blows my mind and I appreciate your skill and patience. Just a note if you do this again - you can get cotton batting through an upholsterer.

@ginaquinzani6488 3 года назад

I salute your depth of knowledge as well as your outstanding tailoring skills. Also, how it's videoed really shows the details of fine sewing. Seeing how you manipulate the fabric was helpful to me, a long time low skilled home sewer. I love your sensibility about real fabrics and your love of garments from the past. Thank you for sharing all this.

@not_today_satan_7 3 года назад

I love the time and care you took to smooth out the fabric to take slow carefull stitching and to cut slowly with precision. You are a seamstress. A work of art beautiful

@Renfield9 3 года назад

That was so much more ASMR then I expected and it was exactly what I needed apparently!

@hazeluzzell 3 года назад

Beautiful! That lining was a real jigsaw puzzle.

@NicoleRudolph 3 года назад

Not pictured- the full five minutes of footage I have of me staring at the vent lining with pure terror.

@judicousineau 3 года назад

So beautiful how you not only extend the size to fit you, but your manipulation of the fabric in and around the bends and curves of the garment is quite stunning to watch. You must have been in sensory overload when making this coat! Thank you very much for sharing your meticulous process and work with us. 💜

@londolanindou9836 Год назад

I've never made a single garment in my life, I don't plan to either. Is this still my favourite chanel? Yes.

@skirtedgalleons 3 года назад

I just watched this for the 4th or 5th time and realized how useful it is. I have to do many changes to every pattern I work with for various reasons, but for historical things it would be very useful to have historical slopers, just like we have modern pattern slopers.

@EddyOToole 3 года назад

The quality of your research, craft, and video production continues to baffle me. Thank you for gracing us yet again with another beautiful project ❣️

@TheChapel-ee4yh 3 года назад

The precision of your sewing is stunning

@kjtherrick4031 3 года назад

Your coat is lovely. I liked it best on you when you wore it with your own hair and clothes history bounding style. You made the entire process, from drafting, fitting, and piecing, look so easy, when it was not. You've made a beautiful coat. I hope you wear it often!

@bohemiansusan2897 3 года назад

Was a lot of fun to watch. My favorite part is topstitching. I did a cossack coat 12 years ago with rows of topstitching just for the fun of it. Am going to do it with my upcoming cossack coat project. Its fun to do it around necklines, collars and cuffs.

@counter10r 3 года назад

NIcole - really enjoyable video (and amazing skills demonstrated). What I love about your channel is that you have a beautifully personal and distinctive esthetic, and your projects are both historically researched and practical in terms of bringing them forward for contemporary wear (history-bounding if you want to call it that/vintage chic would be another way of phrasing it). Also love the breadth of your interests--from medieval to Edwardian!

@reneestarling9525 3 года назад

I love how your videos are often one part history, one part practical construction discussion, and one part ASMR. Soooooo relaxing.

@miladyrigel 3 года назад

This may come off weird, but I just want to say I enjoy your videos so much because you have such a nice voice. I don’t know if it’s my sound sensitivity, but I get a little 😬 in other RU-vid costumers when they speed talk. Your voice and tone is enjoyable and soothing. Excellent video though, I don’t think I could ever sew that many stitches parallel to each other without swearing and giving up on row two.

@KattGothica 3 года назад

Oh my goodness just so gorgeous. One day I will make a coat. I need to lv up some of my skills tho like top stitching so it doesn't look like I was drunk when I did it lolz. But OMG just beautiful work!

@lorrainetresnak7761 3 года назад

Beautiful coat, loved watching the detective work and construction. Your videos are so beautifully shot, Nicole. And I echo everyone else appreciating the ASMR.

@DasdardlySonya 3 года назад

wow. just... wow. I cannot FATHOM the level of talent and attention to detail that went into this. I can barely get a seam straight and you did those straight details perfectly. I wonder, how long did the entire project take to finish?

@NicoleRudolph 3 года назад

About 4 days including all the drafting!

@DasdardlySonya 3 года назад

@@NicoleRudolph thats even more impressive!

@charlarp 3 года назад

Beautiful! I love watching you sew and make shoes, especially recreating vintage items. And the way you record and edit the videos is perfect.

@SecretSquirrelFun 3 года назад

Beautiful, good job. Thanks for sharing your journey and your personal observations along the way. It must be so satisfying to make a coat, that fits as you want it to fit as well as in the style that really “floats your boat”. I can totally relate to the pocket discussion and solution - gotta love a practical pocket OMG I love me a gooooood pocket. Thanks again and beautiful editing and shots 🙂🐿

@Noodle21A 3 года назад

That pocket is genius! I love how you found such a practical solution without visually changing anything on the coat.

@Thesharktemptress 3 года назад

I LOVE the color of that coat. It's so unbelievably pretty. And I swear, that shaping you did on the sleeves? Witchcraft. Another fabulous video. I really look forward to your posts!

@cynthiadugan858 3 года назад

I love top stitching! Such a simple way to decorate yet adds strength as well as lovely detail. I’m in awe of your skills with drafting. I’d like to be able to do that ... but then I remember I’m a bit lazy so it’s probably never gonna happen 😉

@Absintheskiss 3 года назад

A stunning coat. That top stitching really makes a superb garment exquisite *chefs kiss*

@georginamolinar1820 3 года назад

It is absolutely lovely. May you wear it in good health.

@olivetreewoman 3 года назад

The top stitching is just beautiful, you do incredible work! Just lovely!

@McNerdyCostumesandProps 3 года назад

I live in Nebraska if you need anything more from coat with the top stitching. I only need the vaguest of excuses to go to the UNL campus lol.

@terrichicosky3166 3 года назад

That is a gorgeous coat. I love the color and the detail of the stitching so precise

@MsDeepAndDark 3 года назад

It is absolutely mesmerising to watch a pro at work 😍

@rd6203 3 года назад

Soooo much top-stitching! The only explanation is that the original designer had a grudge against their seamstress

@mary78880 3 года назад

This coat is sooo beautiful!! Thank you for bringing us along. I love the color you chose!

@aliloucreations1817 3 года назад

I just love the top stitching it brings the coat together, great construction ❤️❤️❤️

@jenniferfromks 3 года назад

So beautiful!! The details are just.. ugh. It's awesome of you to share your process on projects like this, just awesome!

@morguegremlin6226 3 года назад

It reminds me of a style that was popular during my first few years of high school but 1000% nicer. It looks incredible 🤩

@jenninstitches 3 года назад

She's lovely. That color is so delightful and the I do appreciate allllllll the top stitching. The pocket improvements were very awesome.

@shonitagarcia3222 3 года назад

So Beautiful. I love your Bernina too. You did such a beautiful job on making this coat for yourself. I really like the added personal touches you did, like when you added a secret pocket to your little pocket behind it. Love that. And your unique color scheme of using a grey-light blueish color with a gold - like color of fabric. It works well. Great job.

@VoodooAngel63 3 года назад

Wow, that is a gorgeous coat...especially in those colors. I always think that there is something quite appealing in the combination of pastels with ivory.

@dianavoermans 3 года назад

Well done! The tailoring is 🤩 amazing, as well as the execution of the stitchwork etc. I love the detective work you performed to gather the knowledge about the pattern. A good wool is a such a joy to work with ❤️ 🤩 💃🏻

@nheinrich834 3 года назад

Wow! Absolutely stunning!

@teresaunderwood41 3 года назад

Wowzers!!! Stunning❣

@nancyt2003 Год назад

Haven’t tailored a coat in forever. I feel very inspired! Bravo!

@lynnekingham8754 3 года назад

What beautiful craftmanship you always show. Fascinating to watch and very inspiring. A joy.

@MuseAndDionysus 3 года назад

I love love LOVE the stitch details. Stunning

@chaoticpoodle Год назад

So beautiful!! Just, wow!!!

@yezzyjames 3 года назад

That turned out looking like one smart coat. And good solution with those pockets. :}

@brigidscaldron 3 года назад

Wow! This is so wonderful!

@YarnAndy 3 года назад

It's gorgeous and those sleeves look like a dream. The amount of work that went into this... Enjoy looking fabulous every time you wear it! 💙

@Hair8Metal8Karen 3 года назад

The colours you chose for this are so pretty!

@jasperthebeetleboy 3 года назад

Oh wow the color is so nice

@skepticbat 3 года назад

Gosh these videos are inspiring and so aesthetic. Job well done

@seamlyshenanigans861 3 года назад

Beautiful work! 😍

@annieoldfield1 3 года назад

The amount of work!!!! Superb!

@Donteatacowman 3 года назад

Listened to a few of your vids at work - even your process is just nice to listen to. I don't get "ASMR tingles" and don't go looking for ASMR stuff - but this was lovely to have on in the background when you were just sewing. So soothing.

@junelovell1189 3 года назад

I am stunned and the garment is stunning. Thank you

@minkaf4243 3 года назад

Beautiful work! I love your videos.

@Christina-yp7ek 3 года назад

I absolutely love that coat 😍 ❤

@edwardianmystery 3 года назад

Absolutely in love with this coat! I want one now aha.

@khaxjc1 3 года назад

Oh so lovely. Both the coat and the video. I wanted to make a particular point of complimenting the sound editing. It was wonderful. Especially during the section that was without voiceover and we were just shown the work accompanied by the piano and the sounds of the machine and scissors and such. The shots and how they were put together were also great. This was a quality production showing us some skills to be in awe of. Thank you for taking us along for the ride and giving a nice relaxing escape from reality. P.S. I cant help being hung up wondering what that original little pocket was for. Its not important and yet its lingering with me. Ah the annoyance of an obsessive brain.