I built a raised patio and there’s about 2-3 feet of clean stone at the highest point of the wall behind it. I do have a drain which the patio is pitched to. However , I’m thinking of using easy joint as well. But I don’t have a perforated pipe or exfiltration pipe. Is using easy joint a bad idea? Was thinking of using it for extra protection, even though patio is pitched to a drain.
If you subsoil is sloped away from the foundation and to a lower area, I would say you could. But without knowing the complete construction, I can’t say for sure
the raised patio? There are several ways to do it. Crown it, add a drain in the middle and slope it all towards the drain, level it and install a semi-permeable jointing compound. It depends on how large it is. This one in the video I crowned it and still installed a semi-permeable jointing compound.
@@iamahardscaper I'm taking down a old deck, in my backyard and going to lay down pavers. Debating on unilock windermere or techno bloc , haven't found a style yet looking for a Grey with a dark trim . Any thoughts. Thx
Techo Bloc Blu is our typical go to when starting with a client. It is available in smooth and textured with a border stone that is Black. But Unilock also has Beacon Hill that is an alternative to Blu. Always best to find a landscape supplier near you and go see these in person because they will look a little bit different than the pictures on the website.
@@iamahardscaper well, my project is far from foundation and I was planning on just doing a dense graded base because I am far more familiar with it. How should the drainage function in this sort of scenario
If it is dense graded your not as concerned about drainage for the patio. Just adding dirt at the end of your patio may affect the surrounding areas. Trees, gardens, fences. Building up is fine as long as you have the space.
Great question. On this one we did a very slight crown in the middle of the patio and installed a permeable jointing compound. That way the wall could be level. You could alternatively install a drain in the middle and slope everything towards that. And then there a couple less desirable options.
Great video. I have a question, my yard slopes TOWARDS the foundation, it’s relatively steep, about a half inch for every 1 ft. A contractor told me it would cost an extra 2-3k to do a raised patio. He’s suggesting that instead of that, he will try to correct the grade a little and still have the patio pitched towards the foundation but he will install a drain along the foundation and run it out to the street. Everything I’ve read says the patio should always slope away from the house. Have you ever done this or heard of this being done in the case of a really steep grade?
I would never put a drain up against the foundation. I’d at least have it 3 feet out. Rather than this though I would build a retaining wall at the back of the yard and wherever necessary to be able to flatten the remainder of the yard from foundation to the retaining wall so you can then install the patio properly.
Great video You mentioned this is an independent patio and no pressure against the foundation wall since you also built a retaining wall there. I have a similar situation. My raised patio is covering the entire back foundation wall on a slope which is 23ft by 11ft Do you recommend I should have a retaining wall towards the foundation? Secondly the contractor said since you have poured concrete wall with no basement you don’t need a retaining wall there. What do you recommend? Please advise thanks
So it is just against a solid concrete foundation? I’d assume that would be okay, but I’ve never experienced that. We always build a wall against the foundation for our raised patios
Love your content and contemplating on buying some of your course material. Do you have any sections on pool coping and diving boards? We just had an inground pool installed and I am going to tackle the pavers myself. The only area I am stuck on is the coping and setting concrete for the diving board.
Thank you for watching! There is nothing on pool coping and diving boards, but these videos may help with cutting pool coping for curves and for adhering the pool coping: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1PpiKn1gvFc.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-r0otcVLrgPE.html
Thanks for another great video. I am dealing with a similar situation where one end of the patio closest to the foundation needs to be retained because the natural grade at that point is much lower than the height of the patio, but maybe a foot or so after the patio is on grade. Have you ever encountered a situation like this where you have a single cap lets say and then pavers afterwards along one edge of the patio?
So instead of the patio sloping 2% for drainage, it appears the pavers are level with the walls and thus the permeable joints are providing a route for the water?
Yes, but there are a few other ways you can do this. In this case we also added a slight crown in the middle of the patio so the water moves from the middle to the edges. You can also add a drain in the middle of the patio and slope everything towards the drain.
Excellent video! We are planning to DIY a raised patio in our sloped yard and are trying to reconcile the exact placement of the drainage outlet. We always see this located in the first course of the wall that is above grade, but how does this help with drainage of the ASTM #57 behind the buried course and the bedding for the wall itself? It almost seems like we would need to run the drain pipe under the wall bedding and then away from the patio underground and pop out somewhere in the yard that was low enough to daylight the pipe. With our small yard I am not sure that is even possible.
As you explained with the 57 stone is the way I would do it because water will flow to the lowest point. Then you could dig out a hole for a dry well if you do not have anywhere to daylight. That way the excess water will be stored there.
@@iamahardscaper I suppose one option would be to use the traditional dense aggregate for the leveling pad under the wall blocks. That would bring my drain pipe up about 6 inches right behind the first course and might give me a better chance at running a drain pipe out into the yard.
at 4:50 you can see that the corner of the walls are not interlocking. making the walls not connected. is that on purpose? shouldnt they be interlocking into each other so the wall would be stronger
I see what you're seeing. It looks like there is a line there on the bottom course at the same point as the other line. But it doesn't look like it is a block because the bevel is not there. I know the corner is interlocked.
I'm going to be back there this week and will look at it. It's bugging me now. Most of my work comes from Kitchener where I started my business. Only recently relocated life to Toronto
