I’ve watched many videos, have always been curious about this. no one, and I mean no one has given such helpful information about shellac vs. poly’s and using this particular product to restore in such an understanding way in such a short amount of time.
Well done. Summary: Restor A Finish comes in 8 colors. It will fix very light scratches or white stains from cold drinks n hot drinks IF THE OLD FINISH IS SHELLAC OR LAQUER, but not fix the more modern polyurethane finishes - polyurethane or the other poly. To determine if shellac or lacquer, test rub an inconspicuous spot with a Q-tip with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). If the q-tip removes a tiny hint of finish, then it is shellac or lacquer.
A tip I found for the modern finishes, if you don’t want to sand it and stuff - use a stain pen in a matching color. Dab it on the scratch and dab off the excess. Let it dry. Walla! Good as new!
Well this explains it. Somebody gave me a cabinet with some of the edges scraped off, I took it because I could just use the restore stuff I already had. I had the same results you did on that chair, nothing. This I knew was a crap furniture and was finished dark so the scrapes of the finish completely off stood out. Then I remembered I had a minwax scratch pen and it worked a treat. I had to put 2 coats in some places, but it looks new, and would work on your chair. Thanks. (the pens look almost like a sharpie, or exactly like that tide pen for stains, which they at least used to sell)
I agree 100 percent. I had a miraculous effect on kitchen cabinets, saving us from a huge replacement cost. Then, I tried to use the same product on a recently made wooden card table, and it was a disaster. It didn't restore the finish; if anything, it made big ugly and dull wipe marks and we had to go another way. So yes, this is a miraculous product for a lot of finished furnishings, and no, it doesn't work on the more recent items that are finished with a polyurethane stained finish.
Great info. I just bought this. Before I open up the can I will do the alcohol swab prior. I watched another channel by a person who swears by this stuff, but she did not mention testing the coat first. 👍
Found your video just after learning about Howard products. Definitely want to use Restor-a-Finish on my vintage bedroom suite but was concerned about dirt and buildup. You've given me as great tip with the 50-50 cleaner use before the restore product...so big THANKS! ❤
Very helpful! I wasn’t sure how to identify lacquer vs polyurethane finish, and now after watching your video I tested and it worked, indeed! Thank you!
BEST EXPLANATION!!! Work wonders on my guitar! My on my oak furniture the mahogany color gave it a beautiful redwood hue. Didn't do much on maple tho...Thanks!!!
Well researched and thoughtful. Other reviewers just slap it on willy-nilly. Critical to know that it only works for laquer or shellac when applied directly, and that any polyurethane-finished piece would still have to be sanded.
I've used Restor-a-Finish since the late 1970's and absolutely LOVE IT. I have golden oak and walnut antiques and golden oak plantation shutters - I use the golden oak Restor-a-Finish on my walnut antiques too, so no need to buy a separate can of walnut colored product, and they look beautiful. I also love using Howard's Feed-N-Wax, a mixture of orange oil and bee's wax. Howard's makes great products!
Thank you! I was very recently trying to find some of this product locally and turns out it would be quite a drive to get it from the store who carries it. I had no idea about its efficacy on where I wanted to use it, now I do, and I can save my money, and time. Very helpful video. 👍🤗
I just used this stuff on my Poly finish Alder golden wood, and it worked 100% like a charm. Not sure why it didn't do anything for yours. I encourage anyone to try it regardless of the finish. This stuff is great.
Thank you for your tip to first wipe the surface with 50/50 vinegar/water. I have been using Howard restor-a- finish for years and never before thought to remove residual furniture polish before applying Howard's. I can recall now, times when there was clearly a build up of old wax polish that I should have cleaned first. I just never knew what to use. Now I do! Also, I used to leave the restor-a-finish on the surface for at least 30 minutes before wiping off the excess. Now that I learned that the product breaks down the original shellac or lacquer finish on my antiques, I will remove the excess as soon as I am satisfied with the color blending. Best!
This is super helpful! I have a couple pieces at home that could definitely use a little bit of a makeover. I’m artsy - I’m NOT your girl when it comes to what I call heavy duty diy. Sanding? Id rather not. I have high hopes that this product can make my coffee tables and dresser look fresh with minimal effort on my part. Now I know how to go about it and how to figure out if it’s even going to work. Fingers crossed that these pieces are old enough to have the right kind of finish on!
3:15 Thanks 😊 for your knowledge, I bought it and I was hesitant to use it. I was going to clean it with water only, now I will use a vinegar mixture. Both pieces are older and this seems the perfect solution. I don’t want to make it brand new I want to keep the age to it.
A tip I found for the modern finishes, if you don’t want to sand it and stuff - use a stain pen in a matching color. Dab it on the scratch and dab off the excess. Let it dry. Walla! Good as new!
Funny you should mention that as I just tried one of those pens. Not sure if my scratches weren’t deep enough or what but I did not get the best results Do repair markers or pencils work on scratched poly-coated wood? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NWjJ2ao2NnQ.html
Thank you! I just bought two antique/vintage furniture pieces (one 1940s & one 1960s) and the finish on them both is, understandably, pretty tired. I don’t want to strip them back until next summer (I’m in Scotland, so winter is not the time for these things unless you have a huge shed) and wanted to just improve the worn bits for aesthetics in the meantime. I’ll go and buy this in the colours I need and use your advice to get a decent finish 😀
Used it on a 1923 mahogany Victor vv215 record player cabinet. The cabinet was in near perfect condition, just needed a couple minor nicks covered and to bring back some pop to the finish, worked great.
Thank you for this! Great recommendation by the algorithm. I just bought some of this stuff after watching another video that was recommended to me, and since you shared how to test if it will work, i can rest assured knowing it will work for my pieces.
Thank you! I learned something useful today. ETA, and sorry if this sounds dumb, but how do you decide on the colour(s) to buy with eight to choose from if you can't bring the items to the store for a match, like say, my kitchen cupboard? I suppose getting some swatches beforehand would do the trick!
Well, with a true full stain situations that is more difficult. However as this product is made with blending in mind it just needs to be close. That being said, I’m not the only one to haul a drawer with me into a hardware store so I could get a good match. I’ve also bought plenty of stain that doesn’t match, but will work great for the next project.😊
Wow, thank you! That’s quite a compliment. Never heard the comparison before but it’s funny as I do voice work as well. NOWHERE NEAR HER LEVEL but in at least one airport I’m the voice you hear telling people with guide dogs what gate they can find a rest area 🤭
It should've been worth mentioning that most modern [synthetic] 'polys' are in fact termed as 'varnish' - [often] the hardest of the three main [other] types of protective coatings: shellac, lacquer, and varnish.
Stumpy Nubs did an entire video on the many terms for top coats/varnish ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-v43GCh--jO0.htmlsi=aqK9VvtNev9LAQ5A
I picked up a large computer desk with enclosing doors. Oak and very thirsty looking. I guess the clue is it was not shiny so not poly. Restor did in an excellent job reviving the finish. I did half with one color and then forgot which color and half with a different shade but they are close enough. Most wouldn't notice.
Odds are you are correct. You could try the rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab test. Of course do it on the back or perhaps bottom of the piece. Good luck
Man, I have inherited a beautiful cherry wood furniture set and the bedroom set is all wierd looking. It's has nicks, smokey areas from I assume trapped moisture but on a footboard???? Blotches from the cherry stain on cherry wood - I don't know why either, and I am kind of shocked. I took some Murphys oil soap to it and the built up "slime" kimd of moved with the direction of the rag but didn't come off. I'm thinking pledge but pledge made my debroom oak set look absolutely stunning but I maintained it like a new born. I love oak gosh that honey warm feel and the grain - uh it's perfect. This cherry though is ....... to high end for me to put pledge on, I can't figure this one and don't want to learn on it either. The vinegar I know would work, it is absolutely reasonable but ..... I would hate to dry out the cherry. I'm almost at a point of taking it in for a full restoration but leave it at a natural look so it ages beautifully on its own with oil and beeswax at the end if recommended or just oil. I think - never been able to afford cherry furniture -but if you allow it to age naturally it will become so magnificent the older it gets. Some woods you shouldn't rush amd allow it to be itself and I think cherry is one of them. Again, I grew up with nothing more than muscle and anger so I haven't been able to watch cherry wood do anything ever. I do know it's sought after and high end so that tells me maybe just maybe if I left it to nature it's best. The scary thing.....label says made in China so ............................I do t know what side of that blade I should lean on. Go on and strip that bad boy and redo it myself because it says China made or ..... explain my self to a pro and let them guide the process
Wow a lot to consider. Not being able to see it makes it a tough call. I will say this, the Restore A Finish most likely will not help with trapped moisture. Cleaning with Murphy’s was a great first step. As for the vinegar water mix, that will with unfinished wood, raise grain. But when a solid top coat is on, using it occasionally to get rid of furniture polish residue should not harm it. Although I’m not sure that would be the right remedy for your situation. No matter what you try, always test in a spot that won’t be noticeable. If you can take perhaps a drawer of this bedroom set to your local hardware store you might be able to get some great advice! Good luck, and for what it’s worth I inherited a table from my mom that I love the shape of just not the color. It’s been over 10 years and I still haven’t gotten around to changing it😁
Thanks for the video and instructions. I’m not sure which colour to choose. Do you know if there are photos anywhere that show what all the final colours look like?
I’m not an expert, but it’s been my experience that it doesn’t have to be as precise as you would if you were trying to re-stain a piece using just stain. That being said, if you are working with a lighter piece I would suggest being more particular with the light version of it. But generally, as it is working with the stain, that’s already on the piece, it tends to blend rather well so long as you are in the ballpark and the repair area is not that large.
Thank you for keeping to the point. I'm about to attempt my first restoration and I am sure it is a shellac finish. However, There are some bad gouges in the wood which will need filling. Will this colour the filling also, please?
Having not seen the gouges I wonder if the technique with a damp towel and an iron to get them out? Unfortunately I have no experience with wood filler and Restore-A-Finsh so I don’t know. But it sounds like it will work for the rest of the piece so it won’t be a waste. Will be interested in hearing if it works for you.
Not at all sure. My guess (NOT AN EXPERT) is it would be a case of yes and no. If there is an underlying stain you might be able match it with Restore but would then have to wax the piece…Or is it wax based as in the natural wax that shellac usually comes with? That would be a yes, make sure not to use too much or leave it on too long. Is it totally a French wax where time builds up an amber? Might not be good at all. You could try an inconspicuous spot first (underside, back inside leg or drawer interior) hopefully you have some other piece that you are sure it will help. Sorry I don’t have a definitive answer for you.
@@AskingSpot thanks for replying! I'm a woodworker so I tend to be good at figuring out exactly what finish is used but I've got this 200 year old French bed and I can't tell what's been used. I had to clean years of dust and gunk gently off and it doesn't seem as waxy now. Perhaps there was a beeswax used over the original finish. Might have to experiment with restor a finish and see how it goes!
@@WhistlingMeg this is the follow up video that might help ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NWjJ2ao2NnQ.htmlsi=CqQe2Rk5uxDIE3Qm Unfortunately, there is not as easy of a fix when you have a poly top.
I did the alcohol test on my table and it seemed like the finish was coming off. However, the Restorafinish still didn't work to remove any of the scratches or stains/rings on the table.
It should come off fairly easily…also Restore a Finish doesn’t repair scratches it simply allows for the current finish to be able to cover a bare spot. Its camouflage. As for the stain it depends on what made it. There are various treatments for that and I wish you could tell you exactly which one would work.
Thanks for sharing! I have a question which I don't seem to be able to find answers anywhere else and would love to hear some insights from you! Do you know how long I should keep the re-finished furniture in a well-ventilated area until I can bring it back to my house and use the furniture safely?
I don’t have an official answer on that either. In my opinion, if I no longer smell it and it is dry, I can take it in. If it gets used for food or kids I give it no less than 5 days and as much as 30. Good luck
@@AskingSpotthank you for the detailed answer! That helps me reduce my fear a lot!!! Yeah totally get the food and kids part, it doesn’t hurt by being over precautious😊
