Which Climbing Shoes Do Your Favourite YouTubers Use? | Climbing Daily Ep.1480 

These days what’s the difference! They’re all so talented

Hugo has the La Sportiva Katana Laces.

And the BD Momentums.

everyone knows magnus climbs in dragos

@@blakechunko9193 True, but I still would have liked to see him there. Also, he's not in magic wood with the others, so he won't be in any of the other footage either, which is what I really would have liked to see.

@@blakechunko9193 That's wrong, Magnus is climbing in chalk.

Most RU-vid videos are missing out on Magnus...

Epic Tv couldn't afford him....

Got em 😅

I noticed the same lol

awesome, how good were your guesses?

Have Adidas even made any shoes with them yet? I thought they were still selling 5.10 dead stock

Being from Europe, I've tried a pair of So Ill's (north american produced) and was frankly disgusted at the quality. The shoe came out of the box with glue marks all over it and are arguably the most uncomfortable shoes I've ever tried. I'm just glad the majority of great climbing shoes are still produced in Europe (where quality is more important than a cool looking shoe, yes that's a 'dig' at So Ill).

I am totally on the other side: I have here 2 pairs of Skwama, one pair of instinct vs(Scarpa), dragon (5.10), Aleon (5.10). those 2 five-ten models beat without a doubt in quality all others in my opinion. btw the Aleon may be the best shoe I used ever. this thing feels like a weapon!

Exactly why I was so mad that Eric didn't get to talk about his Skwamas

lmao i ordered my evolv zenists a full size down and it’s painful but i love it

As a long time shoe purchaser and obsesser lol I can say I’ve tried butora, soill, and madrock. Butora rubber is similar to the old evolv rubber, it’s good at the beginning but does seem to sort of gloss over after a day outside. Across are great shoes but once the rubber became glossy it was quite disappointing. For soill the shoes themselves had sort of bad quality and stretched a good bit to the point of them being a little baggy. For the rubber, they worked well but I wore through it quickly. Madrock is my favorite of the group honestly! The rubber is sticky and soft and the heel is such a big cheater when you have to heel hook on small edges.

@@nathanweaver7322 I've heard the same on the SoILL build quality, although my hope is that some of those issues will be addressed in their new Pro Lineup. It's also curious to me that their rubber is regarded as wearing quickly, when it's in the same line (same rubber?) as the Unparallel rubber which is... supposedly essentially Stealth C4. And curious to hear on the Madrocks! If I can get over my prejudices I'll give them a second look. As for Butora - I love their fits, but yeah the rubber has let me down a little bit. Although it seems good enough for Black Diamond athletes to get on the podium so what do I know?

thesii213 definitely recommend madrock! Once I got over the idea of buying from bigger brands I came to realize they create some of my new favorite shoes!

So Ill shoes are crap and so is their customer service. The most unfriendly people I've ever dealt with. It's a shame they are clearly too involved in how the shoe looks then actually producing some quality products. On top of that, considering the two main climbers that promote their shoes are essentially movie stars says a lot about it (and having almost no professional climbers, be it, oldschool trad dads or comp climbers). I would look at Tenaya if you want to try something new.

@@flowthewolf1 I mean, they've got Meghan Martin and Toshi Takeuchi, but I hear you. I've seen their velcro straps tear in my gym. Still, the rubber is supposed to be the same as Unparallel, which I think Tomoa Narasaki used to win 1st in the bouldering world cup so... But yeah. I'm super interested in Tenaya, but have a widish foot and have had a tough time finding a shoe that works for me. They also seem to use the OG Vibram Grip and not Grip2, which is curious to me. Any thoughts?

Most climbers use different ones. Indoor and outdoor are very different styles of climbing. Indoors have relatively big footholds compared to outdoors and are much more dynamic. Dynamic moves normally require a softer more flexible shoe whereas standing on tiny feet outdoors requires shoes that are stiffer as it works best for getting the weight through them. Also outdoors shoes always get dirty so it can be more practical to have multiple pairs.

Corey O'Brien many climbers do use different shoes indoors and outdoors, but this is mostly because folks will reserve a project shoe for outside and then use a beater shoe for much of the gym. From the perspective that most people buy maybe two pairs of shoes a year, this isn’t unreasonable as the majority will be trying out a new shoe in a different size almost every time as preferences and technologies change. However, for most terrain, I use one shoe, the Scarpa Chimera, and all of my pairs (7) bought this last year are the same size. Now, three pairs are for heavy mileage used for warmups, endurance, board training, and similar, two pairs are for serious projects, and two pairs are lightly broken in should a project pair be in need of a resole soon. Those project pairs see at least a couple problems every week inside because I want to know how each performs when I get back onto real rock with them. Too, while folks dismiss the gym, this is the training grounds for the vast majority of people, and why train with a subpar tool which informs your climbing incorrectly? As an aside, I have recently adopted the Veloces for my mileage pairs as the Chimeras wear atop the toe patch first which means resoling has to be done early to avoid puncturing the upper, and my price point means new Veloces are less expensive and longer lasting than resoled Chimeras with a new toe cap which will slightly warp the fit. As another aside, rock and hold types will matter, with more distinct and severe edges favoring stiffer shoes while smooth smears benefit from softer shoes and the advantage of downcamber in a shoe depends on how overhanging. However, I think the shoe which fits your foot absolutely best and which you are most familiar with will perform best.

Joel Amyotte if you don’t even know what shoes work for your feet why are u competing

Felix Walton cuz I’ve stuck with the hiangles for pretty much all the time I started climbing more intensly. I’m looking for a shoe that has similar rubber, but it was baggy on the sides and on the front, even though the length was perfect.

Just keep wearing them and they'll stretch perfectly and will be a great all around shoe. I sized 1 size down and have used the Muria's for everything. Good luck.

Miura VS are aggressive shoes so they'll hurt like hell if they don't fit the shape of your foot. It's important to shop around until you find the shoe that fits snug with no air pockets or areas that chafe. For me, Katana lace molds to my feet perfectly.

Evolv shakras are sooo comfy. Have you tried them?

Tenaya Mundaka/Mastia is comfy AF.

I reccomend the la sportiva genius. It has laces and is wide in the toe box, so it's pretty adjustable so you can dial it in. If you dont like no edge, maybe try the la sportiva testarossa. The have an edge but are pretty similar in most other ways.

Dillon Drew thank you !! I will try to find this one, on the internet i could found for BRL520,95, its half of my salary but its ok 👊💪

@@pheliplacerda2991 If money's a issue and you are looking for a performance shoe, the butora arco is the best you can get for the price. Its 160 USD.

I forgot to ask anyone else 😅 my plan was to let everyone know who was sponsored so we were being transparent. But then totally forgot

JEdit23 I recently bought the Rogue 5.10s and blew out the toes in both of them in under six weeks, I loved the fit and feel and I really liked the stealth rubber but the lack of durability was a major issue. Needless to say my first experience with 5.10s was not a good one but other models might have better reviews than the Rogues.

Interesting opinion. However, two of those climbers shown climb up to Font 8B...we would suggest that is near the capacity of the shoes. They use the shoes a lot and are heavily involved in the industry. Also, most people who buy climbing shoes are not pros, so is it not useful to hear the opinions of well informed amateur climbers? People who are nearer to most climbers?

How an expert uses a piece of gear is not much use to an average climber. Just because Chris Sharma thinks a particular shoe is great doesn't mean I'll think it's great for me. I think the average climber is perfectly capable of determining what type of gear is comfortable or easy to use and maintain.

Oh well different levels, different advice. Maybe someone on her level of skill would have more benefit hearing her thoughts instead of emil's one which climb much much harder!

V3/V4 climber isn't going to need the same shoe as a V9 climber. Pretty obvious if you think about it.

@@XibaXela Somewhat disagree tbh. Just because beginners/intermediates won't get all the benefits out of some high end shoes, doesn't mean they should fall for the beginner shoe scam. Beginner shoes are useless and shouldn't even exist. Thick, non sticky rubber, stiff soles. Useless. They're overly stiff and supportive and just lead to beginners deveoping bad habits and sloppy footwork because there's no sensitivity and feedback that punishes them for poor footwork. Beginners should be wearing soft shoes to strengthen their toes and develop better technique because they feel the rock/plastic more. Beginners should wear any soft shoe. Maybe not $180-$200 pairs, but because a lot of soft shoes tend to be somewhat aggressive, beginners definitely shouldn't be put off. Basic unlined slippers like Evolv Addicts, 5.10 moccasyms are super soft and ideal for beginners, but they should also not be put off buying other soft more aggressive shoes like evolv x1s, scarpa SR, scarpa VS-R, la sportiva cobra, la sportiva pythons. Honestly, I wouldn't even say no to a beginner who's considering buying scarpa furias if they can afford to replace them after they blow through that 3/3.5mm rubber in a few months. After a beginner/intermediate develops good footwork technique and strong toes, then they can consider stiffer, aggressive shoes like miuras for example.

@@maidenless2110 You need the same shoes but you can get away with cheaper ones :)