Which is Better: A Lightweight Crank Pulley or a Crank Pulley Damper? 

Less oil consumption from a different crank pulley sounds like fantasy. I have the same one but that isn't what it does

@@TrillMurray it's probably just a placebo. The engine is noticeably smoother after.

It could, but only if the pully is used as a sealing surface for the crankshaft seal and the original one is fucked

@@martienthestar lol, true, but not in my case. It was a leaky valve cover on the passenger side. AOS is next for more oil retention.

@@martienthestar the front main seal is behind the pulley on these and just contacts the crank and case halves.

Glad that I can be of some help 🥳

This is the way 🔥🤝

There's also ATI dampers. They can also be rebuilt, which is kinda nice.

a good dampener is worth power. zero point for anyone to just run a simple pulley.

@@leftyo9589 The point is to have a reliable daily driver and not a shitbox sti for 10 hp you won't notice anyway lol. Then blame subaru when there is engine failure to your car.

@@newguynasti2008 well, subaru motors are not as mod-friendly as K20/K24, LS, 2JZ, etc. that's why it has a reputation as being crappy.

Glad I could be of help 🥳 fluidamper is alqays the solid choice in my eyes

although super funny I build LSx motors blindfolded, and Honda motors time to time, and had built some crazy rotaries too *in fact a lot of the RU-vid junk is just that*! worked for Mazda motorsports specifically in R&D for their experimental scale GPT car they had been developing for a new car in series back in 2016. That's a weird story. but they swore by harmonic control and dampening. But seemingly all engines have this same combustion harmonics and these harmonics VSTLY effect the engine life. Koenigsegg free valve tech and some new2 machining styles have made some insane motors with near zero harmonics and ABSURE power for their size because of it.

High revving engines definitely benefits from the dampers

same with FA20? I'm debating between a light pulley and one of these.

Anytime my friend and always a solid upgrade 🥳

Ironic, as I modded my Mustang up the ying yang. My STI is stock as far as power mods. I've done a couple of reliability mods though.

🙏🙏🙏

Fluidamper was the right move! 🔥🥳

@@Smeedia Was looking for a replacement as the OEM rubber was beginning to disintegrate. Fluidamper was so expensive compared to rest and was curious how it would do: Wow cleaned up the wonk and vibrations. Keep up the great videos !!

@@i.norman WHich engine, year and mileage did the rubber start disintegrating at?

@@mikekillion4731 Hi - it's 2002 WRX Wagon - Automatic, with a EJ205AX3BB engine. I think I'm the 2nd owner and replaced the original crank pulley at around 250,000 KMs. Saw the crank a little wobbley when idling, inspected it and could see bits of hardened rubber missing. Replaced it and the engine idled incredibly smooth, though not sure how a new oem would compare. worth the price for fluidamper !!

Fluidamper is always a solid move 🔥

@@Smeedia fluid... solid move... I see what you did there xD

I love mine it’s awesome you’ll feel the difference immediately

I'll keep some more topic ones coming 🔥

Figured I'd make a video on it 🥳

😆🤭

It's a bit different with pushrod engines than modern OHC engines. But when I saw the built ones, many had dampers added or went total lightweight. But rebuilding a vw engine is like a weekend lol.

Anytime and appreciate the support Mike! 🙏

100%, I left out lightweight flywheels from this intentionally. Personally, I stick with OE. When possible, I will keep the mass on the crank to help with inertia when turning over. Funny enough I came across an email from SOA stating the oe pulley is nothing more than a pulley as well. But like I stated I always suggest the fluidampers 🤝

I believe I saw a post on the forums(not sure which) where someone shared the same reply from SOA. A pulley that has an elastomeric ring surrounding it and they(SOA) call it a pulley just sounds odd. I know that the OE pulleys will literally come apart, which is why I'm thankful for an aftermarket solution. Maybe I'll buy a second Fluidampr and finally get around to installing one on my EJ205. I also have to do the timing belt... Oh and let's not forget about the OE cam pulleys that crack💸💸💸

I've seen a handful of thrm de lam like that, makes a God awful noise when it happens 😆

Anytime my man! Jelly of that spec V 😍

@@Smeedia Jelly of the Spec?....nah why so?

Eyyyyy 🥳🥳🥳🥳

Just waiting for my intercooler piping and we will be ready to rip 💔

🤝🙏🔥

Fluidampers are always a solid move 🔥

Any issues if i were to pair the fluidampr crank pulley with lighten alternator and waterpump pulleys on a BRZ?

@@lauchongyee9062 Sounds fine.

Are u running on the said combo for your ride?

@@lauchongyee9062 Nah I had the lightweight pulley kit from raceseng with the lightweight crank pulley. For 15k miles moved on to other cars. I would have liked to replace the crank with a fluid damp because it will only help with reliability. It won’t hurt. Also lots of people have a good argument not to change pulleys on an FRS because money could be better used for exhaust, tune, brakes, tires etc and I agree.

Thank you Layne 🥳

🤝

Fluidamper was the move! When those things explode its terrifying 😅😅😅

Tired to get some in there that were applicable 🔥

Sounds like bro science let’s see the dyno charts

@@andreahighsides7756 We are building a small journal 327, 63 to be exact. The factory pulley was a 6in. Factory switched to 10in for all SBC sizes in 67. Now while I don't have the Dyno charts, I am sure GM has them burried somewhere

Unfortunately it would not help with that, higher cylinder pressures will make a rod bend before the vibrations ever would 🙏

@Smeedia I see. Thanks for the info. Looks like beefier rods are the only solution for my modest power goals.

Got you 🥳

As per what a dampner is, most engines do have a "dampner" and it would almost always take a cross section to see how much rubber or composite is used to soak up vibration and resonance. Lightened pullys (as a a dyno technician) I have noted that in about 30% of circumstances INCREASE the amount of resonance past having none, due to essentially adding a tuning fork to the end.

Lmao going to start this series now 😅🔥

Nothing crazy for power I wouldent stress it too much 🤝🙏

Thank you 🤝 get brain farts when filming sometimes 😆

Extra sausage and pepperoni

Thanks for saying this. Between you and this video I think I'll go with the Fluidampr. Would love smoother operation and I can make up for the extra weight with the accessory pulley upgrades.

@@mikekillion4731 100%

Curious, doing a Google now 👀

@@Smeedia yeah. Thinking about copping one up

If the opportunity comes up I can definitely make that one 🙏🙏🙏

You'd be fine with the OE but I'd still suggest fluidamper 🤝

@@Smeedia I'll add it to the list. If you think it's a better idea I'll take the builders word for it 💪

Got you 🤝

Anytime buddy 🤝

Feel any diffrenece in the car? 👀

Huge difference upgraded mounts the sound was much better much smoother revs and less vibration through the steering wheel

Not so much luckily on EJs, the crankshaft is so short that vibrations are already pretty low. ROTARY engines though sound like a good time when it comes to dampers and balancing 😅

Since it's heavier I don't see how it could free up power unless it has less friction than OEM.

The rotational weight of the fluidampr is less than OEM. There is a weighted inertia ring inside of the fluidampr that is suspended in fluid. MotoIQ did a long tech video on fluidamprs and provides better information and resources. After installing on my EJ, I noticed improvements in every area of driving. From Idle to redline, this made my Forester better. Mike from MotoIQ touches on a little discussed topic of the sensors picking up the cam and crank angles more "correct" as opposed to the whip forces on the cam and crank from combustion. He is not kidding and this is known is racing circles. The same way a faster ECU or one with better OS (if using older hardware) can do the ignition timing better and be more precise. The reduced whip of the crank and subsequently the cams means it is more accurately reading the correct cam positioning as an example. Go one step further and take a look at images of exotic engines and see a quite large and familiar crank pulleys. I have spotted a few. Additionally, you can find harmonic dampers with similar tech and goals in detailed pictures of certain F1 engines (take a look at the incredibly intritcate cam harmonic balancers as an example).

You got a point 😆

My fluidamper weighs 6.6 👀 that's what my scale read out at🫡

@@Smeedia According to fluidampers site they weigh 6.9 lbs.

@Don Merrigan interesting 🤔 in its defense I did weigh an older one as used in the video ao thr newer ones prob weigh the 6.9

@@Smeedia both have great track records. 20% cheaper and 15% lighter is what sold me on ATI.

Tbh I would use the stock pulley. If you wanted to you'd be okay using the grimmspeed one though 🙏

💪💪💪