Very well explained!!!!! My lightweight crank pulley made a definite difference with no issues and I redline it multiple times a night since I only drive it once or twice a week. "A Redline A Day Keeps The Carbon Away And The Mechanic At Bay" :)
Adding lightweight/under drive pulleys really added response to the engine. It's noticeably quicker to acceletate, especially when rev-match/heel-toe shifting.
I used a lightweight underdrive pulley on my 3000gt for 10 years zero issues. I’ve used an underdrive pulley on my Trailblazer ss for 30k miles zero issues.
@@jimhiscott2918 The only issues with lightweight pullies I’ve seen on 3000gts are twin turbos making north of 500awhp at that point you wanna keep the stock heavy balancer because with a lightweight pulley it can cause the crank to flex, weaken and snap with higher horsepower applications.
Been running a lightweight pulley (VMS) on my h23a vtec swapped (Honda Prelude). 60,000 miles going strong no issues. Thank you for this video however, its very reassuring!
The CTR N1 Pulley is a perfect example. If Honda can run a B16b at 9500rpm for 24 Hours straight you guys really think its not safe for your commute to the grocery store? Common guys LOL
So, I've read and heard that a light weight pulley gives the motor 5 to 6 more horse power....? Your video was very good, and very technical. Thank you for such details and information. So, theoretically the motor will not have to work as hard, do you think there will be a slight improvement in gasoline milage... ??
@@popanda3652 Join the facebook group "8th Gen Honda Accord" and you'll see plenty of peoples builds, including mine. All the info you'd ever need to know.
@@popanda3652 oh sorry I didn't see this message till now sorry lol.. but yeah @brandon neves his car is really nice.. hopefully you joined the 8th gen group.. im Alex Edwards on there
@@aoescool dont worry about it man. Drunk driver totaled it and insurance said theyd give me 3k for it so i couldnt afford a new one. I drive a 2001 acura tl now and am in the process of of installing a rear mount turbo. Im in the 8th gen group still though cuz i still believe the platform will be the next b or k series once people realize how easy it is to make power with the j series from that gen. I apreciate the reply nonetheless tho :)
I appreciate the video, very informative. just bought a Hashimoto underdrive pulley and was searching to bust a rumour before I busted my B16A.. Thank you again
Harmonic damper/balancer I do believe we mechanics just call it a harmonic balancer because its a combo and it flows off the tongue a little better. Its universally agreed that its 'the thing at the end of the crank that drives the serpentine belt'
Didn’t Honda even sell an oem optional lightweight crank pulley for the original CTR with the b16b? If these were so bad I doubt Honda would sell them from their parts department.
I do endurance racing and would the light weight pulley affect the reliability of the K24 engine that are redline for 8 hours a day for an race weekend of about 25 hours total? I already have a lightweight steel flywheel.
Without testing it is hard to say for certain. My opinion is, if it is a standard tolerance engine, something off the Honda factory line, it would be fine. If the engine is highly tuned, blueprinted, boosted or otherwise a critical build I would more likely recommend a Fluidampr or ATI unit, which we sell at Heeltoe.
I'll try with a nicer comment so this doesn't disappear too: you don't know what you're talking about here. If you do an actual simulation of forces, you find out an inline-4 has fairly nasty 2nd order harmonics. It's a up-down rocking of the crankshaft ends. On a B/D/H engine with an oil pump gear riding on the crank, this can be DEADLY. Coyote V8's offer great examples of similar 2nd order harmonics shattering crank-driven pumps when they are under-dampened (particularly with a supercharger reducing it's damping power). K-series use chain-driven pumps so it's less of an issue. It still imparts much heavier loads on the outer-most main bearings with an undampened pulley. Also accessories like AC & PS add to the dampening effect, so motor with them deleted need even more dampening. Same for engines with lower rod-stroke ratios or higher redlines - they need more.
Given that the majority of engines we deal with are K and J and they all have the extra accessories you are talking about, you are supporting the point of the video. But in reality, the people this video is intended for are the vast majority of street-driven engines without power adders and not having the abuse of a racecar. Myself included, ZERO people in DECADES have mentioned to me once any issues whatsoever using a lightweight pulley. Model it all you want, the reality is, telling the world doomsday stories of grenading engines is largely a lie.
Most Honda/Acura engines, especially B, K and J series engines are balanced internally, and NOT via the crank pulley. Most '80s V8 and V6 engines are by and large balanced externally though, which is where I think a lot of the confusion comes from.
I understand that lightweight pulleys would play well with manual as upgrades. But how about cars with the auto trans? Such as the J35Z2 and not J35Z3?
i'd love to have a greater throttle response in my 04 rsx type s, just seems like when rev matching with my sparco pedals you almost have to give it a double tap on the gas instead of one.
Ive run lightweight aluminum crank pulleys on three engines all of them daily driven to over 8000rpm including -30 Canadian winters....never had engine failure lmao b16a2 b18c1 k20z3
@@Heeltoe. This myth was originally spread because American cars from the 1950s-1970s were externally balanced with the crank pulley as a damper. When racers would replace that pulley to something lighter the motors would shake apart. This is not the case with Honda motors because they are internally balanced, I dont see why this is so difficult for the internet to understand.
@@danielcalquinhas447 likewise, the secondary reasoning for not changing this part is the risk of stress fractures due to repeated flexing of the crankshaft under powerstrokes. Weaker crankshafts will fatigue and fail if the harmonic vibration from this oscillation isn't dampened. Honda makes no such flexy crankshafts. The only reason to run a racing damper on a Honda engine is under very high load high stress conditions.
would this be the same as changing out to a lighter flywheel ? would a lighter flywheel be required at the same time. ive heard reports saying a lighter flywheels puts the car in limp, will the lighter pulley do the same as well ?
Performance-wise yes the impact is the same. Lighter mass on the crank means faster revving and better acceleration. And sometimes yes people will say that the light flywheel is somehow not good for the engine. The "limp" mode is not a real thing, not in the Honda range. Some Hondas and Acuras with a lighter flywheel will get a check-engine light (not the same thing as "limp mode"). This is because the system in these cars that monitors engine misfires will detect minimal changes in the crankshaft speed that makes the system think the engine is misfiring. There isn't any performance impact to this light, but it is something annoying and you want if off. Many people use engine tuners to disable misfire detection to resolve it.
@HeeltoeAuto At 4:15, on the lightweight pulley there are 4 distinct 'marks' along the outside diameter. Are those timing marks that are also present on the factory pulley in the same location relative to the hub key?
Curious how many pulleys I could swap for a Lightweight/UR pulley on my k24z3 motor on my 2.4 2010 accord? Looking into swapping the oem for lighter ones if available but not sure how many replacement pulleys I’d need
We have a 2-pulley kit with belt here for you: www.heeltoeauto.com/pulley-system/buddy-club-p1-crank-pulley-kit-2pc-honda-accord-2008-12-14-i-4-k24z3-w/ac-bc05-p1pk24z3-a.html
Heeltoe you guys are very well respected what you say I trust! thanks for taking the time to make this video. A lot of us are in your corner as well. I get all my parts from these guys and they always deliver! Stay tune for more out of this j-series accord ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Y5cf6FIi-m8.html
I have a 06 vq35de and im wondering wether i should run a lightweight pullry or fluid damper idk if my car comes stock with damper or if i need it what do you guys think
My pulley separated from the rubber ring today on my stock TL-S , you think it messed up anything in the engine? Definitely going to upgrade to a lighter pulley. Thanks for this informative video.
Great explanation! I just want to ask, What is your opinion on using lightweight pulley on undersquare engine. Does it vibrate a lot? Planning on adding these on my car
Where the hell did you get your information??? Its not a mith. If you run an aluminum pulley on a Honda B series performance engine you risk the chance of having oil pump failure DON'T DO IT. Extremely discouraged on Honda B, D & K series engines.
@Flash Jones The rubber in oem crank pulleys and in very expensive after market race pulleys is there to absorb harmonic vibrations. With no rubber there is nothing to take up these vibrations except for your oil pump and the crank bearings closest to the pulley. Look on any serious race engine builders motor and you will 100% of the time find a rubber dampened pulley. Especially with us B series Honda engine builders where the crank runs through the oil pump it is imperative to run a very well dampened pulley! I just spent $6000 building another 650hp boosted B series long block and forked out another $365 for a race dampened crank pulley with a smile because i know what will happen if I don't! Again, avoid non dampened or any plane aluminum pulleys!
@Flash Jones Got to love that vtec👍. Look at the Honda OEM TypeR N1 pulley/damper. It is a single belt pulley that is "underdriven" and its ⅓ the weight of a standard oem pulley. I have ran this pulley with great success on many B series. Honda oem Pn#13811-PCT-000 This is a very nice pulley I think you may be interested in.
I purchased the Buddy Club P1 Crank Pulley Kit, K-Series Applications (K20, K24), BC05-P1P for my 09 TSX from you. My mechanic was telling me that if we install it, the engine will make a lot of noise after. Is that true? Regardless of the answer, do you have a video or sound clip? If the engine will be very loud and sound like an older model Civic, I don't want it lol.
No it doesn't change the sound. Just make sure you buy a new crank bolt for your model because mine bent slightly on the top part of the bolt (not the threads) this is because u have to use a torch to remove and sometimes the bolt gets damaged. Better to have a brand new bolt to reinstall.
I need one for the b20b will the type r n1 work on non vtec engines what about vms pulleys? They don’t really make LW PULLEYS for b20 in general or all b series pulley the same I just want a little more pep in my step lol 😂 please help a brother out!
@@devoncanada2 Get a Honda OEM N1 typeR pulley. Its a great damper for less then $100. Only 1.8 pounds and made by Honda! Its also got a slight underdrive to it. Been running mine for 3 years on my 650hp LS Vtec. No oil pump issues to date
@@jimhiscott2918 my stock pulley is perfect for what i have so far. I got a ported type s pump, 50 degree vtc, rdx injectors, ported rrc, and a few other goodies 💪
Would my 04 TL based need a tune after installing(m/t)? Is there more than one pully that can be upgraded? Just received my short shift kit and high-flow third cat. Hoping to install soon!
Is this a worthwhile upgrade for Honda V6 Motors? I have a TL That still runs strong and I've been looking into getting one of these the next time I do a timing belt service on it. Are they also a reliable performance upgrade?
I have a question make fun of me if you want but I’m being very careful on what I do to my car. I just bought a light weight crankshaft pulley for my Acura rsx 2006 base model automatic. I hear a lot of mix feed back from it saying it destroy my car and others say it ran fine like nothing was done to it. I need help on if it’s safe to put on or don’t do it.
Gavin we appreciate your concern, the video was made for you to get our opinions on it. In short, you'll be fine. Got ahead an install it and don't worry about the scary stories.
HeeltoeAuto what should I expect to get out of this light weight crankshaft? I’ve heard better acceleration but no hp gain, some said 3 to 4hp gain and some say nothing it’s just nice to look at
@@deathstalker176 The lighter weight of the pulley reduces the power needed to spin the engine. The revs should be a little more responsive and faster revving. It's not a big hp gain but part of a good performance package for a tuner. Fact: faster acceleration means more HP. So whoever said no power gain isn't really stating facts. it's not just a pretty part. It's effective. How could the car accelerate better but not have more power? that doesn't make sense.
We have Buddy Club pulley sets for the 08-12 Accord yes: www.heeltoeauto.com/pulley-system/buddy-club-p1-crank-pulley-kit-2pc-honda-accord-2008-12-14-i-4-k24z3-w/ac-bc05-p1pk24z3-a.html
@@Heeltoe. yeah I seen that one was more curious if the one for the tsx bc I want the ps one as well…just wasn’t sure if it would work bc the tsx has electric ps
Jim that's kind of an odd comment, of course one of them is going to be lightest. just because you might not agree with somebody buying a light pulley doesn't mean that one of them isn't the lightest out of the rest.
What about a 2015 VW beetle. Automatic, gen 3 tsi 1.8t. would a light crank pulley or under drive pulley, which is what I'd like to do. Would this be able to work for it?
In general I would say yes. HOWEVER, as boost pressure rises and toque increases the issue of crankshaft deflection becomes greater and greater. Especially if the engine is built up with stronger pistons, sleeves, rods, etc you will want to consider an upgraded damper like a ATi or Fluidampr unit to dampen those forces. On a factory-turbocharged car with a stock bottom end (most cases) or a mild turbo on a mild build...I say go for an alloy pulley. It will help you generate more power off-boost to help RPMs come up and get exhaust flowing.
I'll take a watch but don't expect it to change my mind. In 15+ years, nobody has yet. Have yet to see practical real world evidence that a modern Honda engine *needs* any kind of harmonic damper, short of a high horsepower race engine.
@@Heeltoe. that's true your over engineered very reliable low hp honda engine may be fine but that's not the case with all 4 cylinders depending on bore stroke overall smaller piston less torsional push and pull on the crank ie less need for a damper but like my 2.4 nissan motor it's at about the end of the spectrum for a for displacement to still be able to rev past 7k that's not to say that a damper wouldnt help your honda last 20% longer by dampening those vibrations that are just vibrating the main bearings the oil pump the rod bearings the snout 9f the crank, even vibrations being transferred to the valves from the timing chain if u have one and u wouldnt be able to notice a problem until years and years later after it's way too late u cant feel torsional vibration at all it's a harmonic frequency that happens at different points in the rev range that the damper dials out not an actual vibration u can feel or hear
@@Spacedout209 Thanks I appreciate the feedback. We just don't put stock in the idea that the stock pulley on your general Honda engine is even a harmonic damper to begin with. It's all in the video. *shrug* I am not commenting on any non-Honda engines.
@@Heeltoe. I seen that engine with an oem pully on the crank, i think even some porches dont come with them stock but whatever I can do to keep my nissan 4 cylinder from vibrating itself to death all I was saying is I'm sure adding one to an engine that didnt come with one would make it last a little longer even if it isnt necessary
@@Heeltoe. I did, I'm just busting your damper. In all seriousness it probably doesn't matter on a stock or bolt on build. These guys build xxxx hp engines so they know what they're talking about. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-V1hX1liR7r8.html
Just use a fluid damper for the crank pulley. Makes hp and is still lighter than stock but absorbs any vibrations and if you assume Honda engines don’t vibrate at all because they have magical crankshafts and can ignore the fact that they’re 4 cylinders then I’m inclined to believe you’re selling these pullies or making commission from sales. I wouldn’t trust those shitty looking garage made pullies either. There are far superior brands that make lightweight pullies. How much money do you make selling these pullies versus the cost to make them? They look like some Alibaba junk.
Well a lot of hate in there. LOL, I'll tell you what you lost me at a fluid-filled damper makes power. Sounds to me like you're more interested in saying a bunch of negative things than actual facts. Every one of the pulleys in this videos is a quality made part and with the exception of one they're all made in the USA.
Great video! I have one question: Do you think that between all k20 specs, the crankshaft pulley are the same? Im asking because I have bone stock 8th gen civic si (k20z3) and the crankshaft pulley is wobbling, so looking for the part the exact replacement is 160$ while ive seen other crankshaft pulleys for other k20's for 40$
These parts are made concentrically. They are basically balanced off the lathe. But that is not the concern people have anyway. They are worried about damping destructive harmonics, which is a non-issue.
@@Heeltoe. its more stress on the oil pump and bearing only because slightly more vibration atributes to lower film of oil coating bearings from shaking
@@Heeltoe. it's balanced for the heavier OEM one when you take one that only weighs a few ounces on a stock internal motor it will cause issues down the line. Now if you have different crank rods and pistons that weigh less it won't be as big of an issue cause its more or less counter balanced...
@@04tacomaguy1 I'm sorry friend you're really off base. Size and weight of the pulley have nothing to do with the balance of the bottom end. The engine is balanced internally has nothing to do with the pulley. The pulley is balanced as well so it doesn't affect the balance of the rotating assembly at all.