It might be easier to quantify the differences between the resins if you use standard materials testing. Several of your tests work on similar principles but could be better quantified if you use standard procedures. Hardness is scratch resistance. You can test this with sandpaper. Elasticity is ability to bend without deformation. Basically how much it can bend and still return to the original shape. Your protractor would be good for this. Strength is the amount of force required to deform. A test called the Charpy V-notch. In metals you take a plate and put weld bead across it. Cut a grove in the center of the weld. Then put the plate notch side down supported from two edges and place weights on the center of the back until it breaks. This tells you the force it takes to break the sample. I am sure you could just print a suitable plate. Toughness is the amount of energy absorbed when broken. This test is called the Charpy impact test. This is done with a pendulum and sheer block. The pendulum has a sample holder and it swings toward and just missing a sheer plate that will sheer the sample. The difference in the height of where the pendulum is released and how high it swings back up shows the energy absorbed (toughness) of the material.
Nice test. Something also to consider is age. I've seen several company folks on forums admitting that their early resin prints from 10 years ago have become quite brittle. Admittedly, tech wasn't as advanced and I'm sure we've learned a lot, but time will impact resin more than plastic or metal, generally speaking. So, I hope early adopters don't have a resin-apocalypse in 10-15 years where whole armies or collections start falling apart at the touch!
The thought of my entire collection of miniatures I've spent a good portion of my life painting crumbling before me like Thanos snapped his fingers is soul-crushing.
I'm looking for tough resin to 3D print extremely small beveled gears, and a print in place mechanism for 1:87 scale switch stand on a model railroad. This is where two gears must mesh together inside of another object and not break.
Unless I overlooked it, try Sirayatech tenacious. Its an additive (you could print from it as well but) giving some flexibility. So the harder something is the more apt it is to shatter. I use (typically) a ratio of 1/5. So 20% tenacious to 80% regular resin…. Usually fast ABS works wonders to give it enough flex to minimize breakage.
Thank you so so much for taking the time to do this. I'm so tired of messing with ratios of 2 different resins and having painted miniatures break frequently because my friends or dogs are a little clumsy. ABS-like look like it will be more than enough for DnD miniatures that can take an occasional drop or two
hey man, watching your older dnd content and i just wanted to thank you for all the helpful info. starting my first campaign as DM soon and really nervous to get it right - you're making it way easier
Glad you did the hammer test! I know some people would think why??! and as you said in the video when are you even going to be doing that to your miniatures? To which I say well.. what if you're not printing that? I want to print parts for my motorbike, I know a lot of people would say, to use a filament printer however when you do not have that choice it's good to know what we resin printer users have at our disposal! There are 2 things with it for me. Actually having the decent quality to details as I'd want to use it for art pieces and things on the bike. On top of this, there's making custom parts. This is a tricky one because FDM really is the go here, you want something durable in a crash or even a drop of the bike which if you have a heavy bike... well it's basically like the hammer test. I know this video is 10 months old but I wonder how much things have developed now as the tech is changing all the time. I hope we start to see more durable resins we can also use in the future! really cool to see where the tech is going.
I moved recently and packed my resin minis in boxes with some packing. I used the elegoo abs-like almost exclusively, and I had alot of breakage at wrists and swords. I use water-washable now and it's pretty breakable, but so much easier to deal with. I'd be interested to see how the flexible stuff works.
I’ve been getting really sick of the cleaning process of 3d printing, and I’m considering water washable resin to take out some of the alcohol and green soap. Do you recommend it?
Thinking of buying a resin 3D printer for models and terrain, because I like the quality of the print, but I worried about durability. This video is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
Thanks Nate! I've (still) yet to venture into the realms of 3D printing but this was very slick and very interesting. I had no idea how brittle resin miniatures could be, or the detail variations - that was crazy. And also, having to do it in a warm room for optimum results! Finally, I am increasingly impressed your bookshelf of goodies behind you 😃
The viscosity might be the reason for the lack of detail. Maybe a test at the correct/different temperature would make it more fair for the Conjure Tough.
@@WASD20 Anycubic tough would be a good one to compare for this. Their tough resin is about as good I hear but it is much less viscous. Curious if this will impact detail.
Have you tried the Anycubic ABS like resin pro 2? Its increadibly tough for its price, it allows a lot of flex but very hard to bend and is pretty hard so its scratch resistant. On paper its similar to the conjur tough/ridgid resin.
Grateful for the advice! I’ve been wondering about durability. New to 3D printing… Brand New. I have a 1st gen Anycubic Photon, which I have yet to fool with. Can you recommend any “how to get started with resin 3D” videos or websites? Complete noobie here. I’ve never even used a filament machine. Many thanks. Love your channel!
Absolutely amazing and helpful review/tests. Thank you so very much! I want to print some cosplay-props for conventions and would like them to be able to have at leats a chance to not break when I drop them accidentally. Resin is said to be too brittle for props but with some of these I think it's worth a shot!
Is it possible to use the cheap resin to make the mini, then make a silicone mold of the mini, and use epoxy resin to get 10-30 replicas before the mold starts to lose details and needs to be remade?! It would still be cheaper but I guess you'd have to want a lot of a certain mini...
Late response but making molds has always been an option with both FDM and SLA printers. FDM prints require a bit more prep work and smoothing to produce good molds. FDM do have a drawback in resolution though. It's a lot harder to get fine details from a FDM print as opposed to an SLA one
I would buy 'platinum-cure' silicone rubber (for your molds) but not 'tin-cure'. platinum-cure is more expensive but it can last a lot longer than tin-cure rubber.
@@dumbcatBoth silicones have the same shelf and use life. Tin-cure shrinks in the cure and platinum-cure doesn't. The two have other differences, but both can work depending on your end goal, platinum will be more exact with preserving tiny details.
What I don't understand is why someone would keep a part like that in the 1st place. Why not mold the plastic piece, melt out the plastic and pour aluminum into the mold? Can also get a rubber mold, and pour in resin. Pieces would last for a very long time. Not as long as the metal pieces but much longer than plastic... One can also use JB weld by mixing it with acetone to make the metal easier to pour into a mold? Lastly, if anything, if someone is going to use a 3D printer, why not print them out with a rubber?
Hey, is it possible for you can share the settings you used for the sample prints? It could help a lot of trying to print some mechanical resistance materials.
I don't think the angle will affect the detail TOO much, but I do tilt mine slightly on their back in most cases so that any support marks are less likely to be visible on the front of the model.
The fact that he used preset profiles for the resins and didnt talk about calibrating exposure time at all shows to me that these tests are flawed. Overexposed resin gets brittle and has less detail. I feel like he doesnt know to calibrate resins
Can you do this test again but try it with a life size armor print? Would be interested in seeing if any of these resins would withstand a tackle or knife stab.
Great video but I have a question. There's a group of d&d players at the pool at my apartment and I'd love to see if I can join but I don't wanna interrupt the flow. How should I approach
you have omitted siraya tech resin from your tough resin lineup, the Blu and Tenacious line are mainstays of the tough and flexible segment, your lineup of tough resins is not representative of the market.
I’m aware! These are just some that happened to be sent my way. The idea of adding more to the line up was pretty unappealing to me. Changing resin in a printer is one of my least favorite things to do. :)
This is a pretty crap video. You pretty much only, and repeatedly test malleability, but several times say "strength or strongest" which would require compression, tensile, and shear tests, none of which you did.
