Just had the same error code came up and had the exact same problem! I didn't even take the relay out! Just cleaned up the connector and scraped the plastic back and soldered it all back together! Works like a champ. Thanks for the video!
Wish I came across your video before I went through multiple thermistors thinking that's was the problem as so called "Repairman" videos suggested. I also left the relay in, cleaned the burnt terminal and resoldered in place.
Huge thanks for this! We were in between trips with a ton of laundry to do when the error showed up on Sunday. I was sure we were headed to the laundromat while waiting for an expensive part to arrive, but simply cleaning up the gunk, exposing more of the trace, and resoldering the one lead did the trick!
Add another one to your list Jamie! Thanks for the vid. Exact same problem. As a couple below mentioned, I didn't want to attempt to remove the whole relay so I just cleaned up the connections spot well. Just a shout to anyone that is not a soldering expert (such as myself!) I practiced a little on a flat head screw on my work bench. Once I felt I had the technique down correctly, I did the board. Hopefully it hands in there for another several hundred miles! Thanks again!
@@aflyinggoat1 Right on! It just makes my day when someone says they've been successful getting their dryer back going! Yeah close to 💯 you don't need to worry about the relay if you just see the big blow out. Just clean and patch up the path. You are most welcome!
great video and good cleanup on the damaged board. I highly recommend adding a wire from the relay pin to the other side of the trace (there are 2 pins - either will work). Whirlpool designers didn't do a great job of making that pc board. That trace is carrying a lot of current and designers didn't make that trace large enough. add the wire so you don't have to fix it more than once.
Had the same exact problem, my husband didn't want to fool with fixing it so I decided to give it a go!! It worked for me and all I spent was $3 on some solder. I didn't even take the relay off. Hardest part was rebuilding the solder joint, the first attempt I didn't build it up enough. Had to take switch board off again and try again. I've never soldered anything before but it was a success, thanks to this video! I will definitely buy you a coffee!! ☕
Our dryer stopped working yesterday and displayed the same F-01 code. It’s an older dryer so we were ready to take it to the dump instead of paying for a service call + parts if it wasn’t something I could fix. I found your video and did exactly what you recommended. Worked like a charm! Thanks so much, you saved us a lot of money!! Best wishes to you
Same exact problem here!! Sir, you saved me a lot of money as my wife wanted a new set. This solved the problem. As you mentioned, the relay was still good. It was making a noticable click anyway while the Dryer would not engage. The click was a strong signal the relay was still good. You motivated me to do the extra step of looking under the board to see that blown out point. I noticed a varnish coating. Had to scrape it out before desoldering as it was providing strong isolation, it would not melt.
Exactly what happened to mine and exactly what I needed to do. Thankfully the relay was still good so just adding more solder did the trick. Thank you very much!
You are AMAZING! Fixed for that exact problem! Easy solder. I did not have to remove the whole relay. Just cleaned and scraped the blown joint and soldered. Thanks for saving me some dough!! My wife is super happy too!
Thank you! Worked like a charm. My in-laws Whirlpool Sport Duet dryer stopped working. Took it apart and sure enough it was this same problem. I didn't have the tools (or the expertise) to remove the solder points on the board with the relay, but I did have enough to solder back the one point on the relay that had "blown" (black everywhere and the solder was completely gone from that point). Soldered that point back and it worked! Thank you! Saved them $300+ in a new board and paying a repair man!
Good video!! Thanks! I've done this 2 times in 2 yrs before realizing I've got dirty power coming into the house. My next step is to put the dryer on a suppressor or UPS to help. Whirlpool is in the board sale business. Lazy service techs rather sell boards than fix!
Thank you so much for your video! Had the same error code and it blew up at the exact same spot! Kept the relay in place and just cleaned up around the connector and soldered it back ! Works like new!
Apparently the only guy in our city that can fix a dryer is sick so I had a choice between waiting god knows how long for him to get better, buying a new dryer ($1,000) or following your instructions. When I opened the electronics panel I found the exact same problem you had, so I did just what you recommended and it WORKED!!!!! Thanks for taking the time to do this video, you saved me a ton of money. My wife is very happy too. Thank you, thank you.😊
Thanks! This was exactly my problem as well. You have helped bring my 24 year old dryer back to life. I wonder what causes the relay to get so hot that is melts the solder joint there.
Right on! I've wondered if over time when it cycles and cycles perhaps that joint develops a weak spot/crack and just weaker and weaker until it blows out/opens up. Glad you got yours back going.
Thanks for this. Mine has exactly the same. How did you get the smaller of the two cables at the far end (the one next to the large three pronged) to let go. It seems locked but there's no obvious release. Oh, you may have a slightly later model. \
If you are just going to get it for this one job probably anything is ok. Even like the cheaper ones from harbor freight like this. www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/soldering-guns-irons/30-watt-lightweight-soldering-iron-69060.html Just make sure to get electronic type solder not like the thick plumbing type etc. Something like this should work but you could probably get something smaller from amazon. www.harborfreight.com/08mm-electrical-solder-58000.html If you think you'll ever do much more soldering in the future I'd rec getting something like a nicer Weller or Hakko one. There are some nicer usb powered ones out there folks like but I've not used one of those myself. Good luck with it!
Excellent question and I've wondered the same. I'd like to see if the replacement board has any differences or thicker traces or would do the same after a while. The relay is fine though. Anything I say is 100% speculation. I think maybe it can be something from the numbers of cycles combined with the size of the trace. If you have any reservations whatsoever just replace the board. I personally don't equate this to being the same as replacing a repeatedly blowing fuse with a shunt or large value fuse.
Thumbs up for another successful repair, thank you! Hardest part for me was getting the circuit board out of the white case. I used some toothpicks to hold back the 6 tabs all at once and it came right out. My burnt circuit also lost maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch of copper so I used a few strands of copper from some 16 gauge wire I had laying around to patch the gap. Worked fine!
