I just pulled my motor off but here in AZ U can’t have your pool pump down for more then a day or 2 in mid summer so I pony up and bought a new motor now that she up in running I pulled my old motor apart and ordered bearings so I’ll have a backup this job seems pretty easy so thank U sir for the info👍🤠
Although not perfect, this video was helpful to remind me the steps to replace bearings in my pool pump. Now I can enjoy my pool again without so much noise. Thumbs UP! And yes, I actually did the WORK, so if I seem a little pissey, it's because it's been really hot, I got grease up to my elbows, and parts lying everywhere. What do these other guys do, watch "do-it" videos while laying down with a beer on their lap? LOL But really thanks for a great video- from one of the few that really lived it. Going now for a swim. Hope to never return here again - LOL.
Excellent video. Right to the point of what I needed. I have the exact same pump with the same "humming" problem. Now that I've seen this video I feel sure I can at least take it apart. Would be nice if you could post information where you get your parts (bearing, seal, joint stick, etc). By the way, where is part 3?
Great video! Knowing my luck I'd change out the bearing and a month later something else would fail and I'd just be buying another motor. Shame there was never a part 3.
Andres Sanchez hey andres, can i bother you with 2 quick questions? 1.- where the heck can i buy bearings? Any classic stores like lowes or somewhere online? 2.- what's the tool this guy used to remove the bearing? Thank you sir
Great video! I was able to disassemble the pump and motor assembly based on your video. I found the front bearing bad but in removing and taking apart the motor I had three of the bolts break and the retainer screw for the front bearing was seized into the retainer. I could not find a parts diagram/PN for screws and retainer. Any source for those?
Thank you for the video. I was about to start my rebuild but had to make sure about that left hand screw. Question: where do you actual pump parts? I cannot find them online unless I’m not seeing the proverbial snake that could bite me.
Considering the time & cost of removing the pump and pulling it apart plus down time, I would have replaced that back bearing as well. Because, if the one bearing failed, the second one will probably go sooner than later. An extra 5 bucks for the bearing and 2 more minutes of labor today to save you hours down the road is a good investment.
It is MIND BLOWING that he did not do this. Maybe it is so he gets another service call from his customer when it fails in 6 months. However, if I were the customer, I would be irate.
My father worker for Hyatt Bearing general Motors in Clark, NJ. He told me 30 or 40 years ago , never change bearings that are good just to change bearings for thre is no guarantee that the replacement will be superior or not fail sooner than a good original.
beyond great instructional video, strait to it real life advice and commentary on rebuild. Thank you! question are you using 120v to bench test the motor could not quit tell. anything on that is appreciated.
Great video. I do need to replace the washer you speak of in here, but am struggling to locate one. Any help on where I might be able to locate one would be awesome!!
so its taken me all day to take apart this same motor and i'm down to the last screw, the one in the middle that holds the thing in to get to the 2nd bearing and its stuck on i'm going nuts but i'm trying to do it so i can save money ...i'll update later
My advice is if your pool motor is more than 10 years old, I suggest you replace it, less noise, more efficient, less worry for more parts to broke. Replace it with a 2 speed motor to save electricity, high speed only when vacuuming, price is almost the same as single speed. I did replace my 12 year old pool motor bearing, the noise is still there, not worth replacing the bearing. I just bought a 2 speed and I love it, variable speed is more expensive though.
Your video was very very helpful, BUT I was hoping you address my problem. My problem is that my breaker "pops" IMMEDIATELY after I turn the power switch on. Are my motor windings fried? Thanks in advance for your response.
A pump was leaking at the seal plate. Replace the seal, but still leaked like a sieve. Took seal plate off, but saw nothing cracked. After the plate dried over the next 18 hours, the crack FINALLY became apparent, with a mineral build up alone the crack. It was a black seal plate, and I was working in the shade. ... and No, the seal plate was not warped as the guy said.
You mentioned the bearing being a 203 type bearing. Would that be the same bearing on a 1 1/2 HP dual speed motor also? is there any designations after the 203xx?
Question, Can the bearing be spinning well and still screech when the pump is reassembled ? Maybe the impeller not working right? or maybe the bearing seats?
@ 4:01 NO, NO - STOP THE BANGING - PLEASE! You didn't clean the housing. You lost your pre-load spring. 1. Clean the inside of the bearing insert surface (on the housing) until it is SHINY clean. 2. Now the bearing slips in EASY (without need for banging) and pushes against your preload spring. 3. Loosen your bearing tension mechanism until it can reach behind the bearing 4. Once your bearing tension mechanism is in place you start to tighten it. Don't tighten too much! 5. After you tighten a little, it causes the bearing to go in sideways, so take your hand and push on the other side. Now the bearing is LOOSE again. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the bearing tension mechanism holds the bearing surface parallel to the housing surface. 6. Finally tighten the bearing tension screw so it is snug. If you are banging on your pump motor, something is wrong. This is not the way to do work. In the end, the bearing is sandwiched in between the preload spring and the tension mechanism. @ 4:40 Is it tight because the bearing in in a bind, or because it is properly seated? How do you know? Try, again, to tap on the side OPPOSITE the bearing tension screw. If the housing suddenly is loose on the bearing, then it was in a bind. You shouldn't need to do this if the housing was properly cleaned in the first place.
Great Video! If I may ask, what size bearing puller is that you are using? Is it a 6 inch? Need to buy one, and they come in 3,4 and 6 inch. Thank You!
#1 Seal plate was cracked inside the shaft seal recession. #2 Never install shaft seals by directly touching the ceramic sides.....the oils in your hands degrade them and cause premature failure which leads to bearing failure. #3 Clean the piss out of all the parts, especially the internal parts and spray with electronic cleaner just before assembly to rid any dust/debris inside the winding area.
Jay my darn thing is still leaking worse then before................. i dont have time for this i have major surgery scheduled for tomorrow....... what am i doing wrong i follow the instructions exactly.... so frustrating and disappointing
@1:35 Where is your wave spring/pre-load washer? Do you know that you need this? It must have fell out while you were banging the motor shaft onto the table.
Very good job , i have just instale a new pump model PANTAIR SF-N1-3/4A/340037 and stop working while raining , probably it got water inside . i need a answer ,thank you . Chris.
The motor is water damaged and when that happens the pump will burn up and short out to were its not repairable and you will have to replace it or get a new pump but if there's a flood you don't want to be running it
Where do you buy the bearings at? What about the electrical part on top of the motor in the long removable Twinkie shaped removable compartment. Is the parts in this replaceable? Thanks Great video easy to follow!!!
Yes they are replaceable. It's call a Capacitor. Take the little housing off( 2 screws) inside you will see to plugged in wires. Then look on Amazon and get the exact same uf#, volts and hz. Place back the pug wires and housing. Pump will start if all specs were correct. Cost under $20 bucks
+Beau Billion Yes, you can upsize the motor but not downsize without changing the impeller too. a 1.5 hp impeller cannot have a motor smaller than 1.5 but you can add a 2.0 or 3.0. If you added a 1.0 or .5hp the pump would run hot and ultimately destroy the motor from overload drag
Good video, was getting ready to order from Amazon 2 seals, they cost $21.50, the 203 seal is less than $5 on Amazon. Same seal, looks like but one is marketed to pool pumps. Like the Plasto Joint seal, thanks will look for it as well. Any suggestions on the o ring kits?
@@2Timothy3END Yes, bought a package of 4 for $10, if I recall correctly. Replaced both front and rear seals and pump is working great, nice and silent again.
I dont know why I am watching this, I was supposed to find a video where I can find the answer for my easypro pump that keeps tripping the GFCI, at first it would run for a few minutes, now it just trips the GFCI right after the power cord is plugged in. Anyways, thanks for the very informative video sir
i wouldnt plug a motor into a gfic outlet there very sensitive. you could try replacing the gfci to a normal outlet and replace the breaker at the panel with a gfci breaker . make sure to contact a lic.electrican about this type of work.
@@orlandoochoa8222 believe it or not, I am looking for a new pump. Yea, its been a year since the time I commented here. What I did was that I disassembled the pump ( lots of water in there), let it dry then put it back and it ran for a year( of course there are a number of times it stopped running, let it "rest" then plugged it back to the outlet and it ran again). It is just clearly now that I need to buy a new pump. My pump is for a backyard waterfall, it is a pretty huge waterfall ( the pump is 5100GPH rated ) so I wouldnt risk anyone or pet just try to replace GFCI with a normal outlet. GFCI trips because something wrong and you'd better believe that its actually doing to protect you.
Thanks for you videos, I have a well pump that sounds exactly like yours in your part 1 video only thing the bearings are both free wheeling in both directions. the pump flooded and was under water for a bit would that effect the capacitor, I've already replaced the square D pumptrol any Ideas on what the problem might be or is my pump motor shot.
Hi Thanks for the video, great job. I was able to remove the motor and exposed the bearings. Unfortunately, the front bearing is much bigger than the one I bought (6203-2RS) The defective bearing has 6304DU POLAND PPL marked on it. I can't find it on line. Do you know what other name i can use? my pump is a 2HP..appreciate it..Thank you
I replaced both 203 bearing an my pump sounded great for a month, now I have a loud hi speed noise back again, low speed is ok. Is there a better quality bearing I can use?
I snapped the head off the screw that holds the wing behind the bearing. 4.25 of this video. Does anyone know what size and thread count I should drill and tap it out to so I can replace it?
@ 1:06 No bangy bangy - use a gear puller instead. I got a set of 3 sizes from ebay for $16. WAY easier than banging on the table- actually I didn't bang on the table, used more advanced method, but gear puller was still much easier. Maybe rather than "Pool Technicians"- "Backyard handyman"? These videos are almost correct, but need a bit of refinement. Remember you actually want to use your motor when you are done - right? Edit: LOL He shows you the proper puller @ 1:50, but doesn't know how to use it to remove the casing - go figure! Just wrap that baby around the housing just like you do with the bearing and the housing will come off exactly the same way.
Don't like the idea of grease on bearing or shaft ! Bearing needs to fit tight so as not to spin on shaft or end bell ! Bearing needs to do its own thing.
@@bradgee2059 While using a heavy screwdriver to pound it out, I broke off a piece of the housing. I replaced the bearings, put it back together, and crossed my fingers. It's been running fine for the last few months but I'll have to see how it holds up over time. So far, there aren't any leaks.
@@mrbede I ended up using a 3/4 or 5/8" concrete anchor. I put the anchor through the bearing and then tightened it down causing the anchor to expand inside the bearing. Then I was able to tap it out fairly easily.
