Why Brown Shoes Beat Black in Menswear Today (& How to Wear)

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Learn how to wear brown shoes, how to style them, combine them, and when NOT to wear them: gentl.mn/brown-shoes-refurbished
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00:00 Brown Shoes Introduction
This video is an update to a piece that we produced all the way back in 2015. we wanted to make sure that we were bringing it to you with our highest standards of quality.
While we certainly encourage experimentation with less commonly seen shoe colors, we also want you to be able to master what is perhaps the most versatile option in footwear -- brown shoes.
02:28 The History of Brown Shoes
Many centuries before it came into widespread use, shoes and boots were actually available in a wide spectrum of colors but the "No Brown in Town" rule and those who still commonly cite it seem to feel that there are really only two colors for proper dress shoes -- brown and black.
Into the 1950s, many were accustomed to seeing brown shoes more often and in a wider variety of settings, therefore, the "No Brown in Town" rule was quickly fading away with a greater emphasis on individual style and the particular outfit as a whole.
07:40 WHY to Wear: 1. Versatility
08:21 2. Variety
09:31 3. Patina & Personality
Now that we’ve hopefully convinced you that you absolutely SHOULD wear brown shoes, let’s get to WHEN you can wear them!
11:02 WHEN to Wear: 1. Business Suits
While traditionalists will want to stick with black shoes in a white-collar business setting, brown shoes are absolutely acceptable with business suits 99% of the time in the 21st Century.
12:44 2. Everyday/Casual Suits
Outside of the world of fine worsteds and dark suits, brown shoes can really shine! When it comes to suits in lighter tones, relaxed fabrics, and more playful stylings, you have the full spectrum of brown shoes at your disposal here.
14:03 3. Odd Combinations
Although it may feel somewhat of a “cheat” to say odd combinations, the reality is you can apply whatever works for your personal style.
15:14 When NOT to Wear Brown Shoes
There’s really only one situation where brown shoes should NEVER be worn: with the most formal of dress codes, Black Tie, White Tie, and Morning Wear.
While this video has been a comprehensive overview of the world of brown shoes, don’t forget to check out our corresponding article for more information.
18:30 Outfit Rundown
#shoes #dressshoes #mensshoes #shoesfashion #mensfashion #mensstyle
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31 май 2024

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Комментарии : 199

@thechairman74 8 месяцев назад

But seriously, I think since brown is a color range instead of a specific color, it can suit many levels of formality and dress style. I've seen guys on morning news shows like Matt Lauer and Al Roker basically never wearing black shoes and only some variation of brown and making it work with any color of suit.

@nachno 8 месяцев назад

Yeah. Brown is a team.😂

@masterkamen371 8 месяцев назад

True, but I wouldn't pair brown with highly formal suits. I saw a local politician the other day walking around town, he had a very formal navy suit, paired with light brown shoes. It looked off. Should have went with black or very dark brown. And black suit with brown shoes just reminds me of Agent 47 for some reason.

@johnmoore3817 2 месяца назад

Brown a morning color. Black at night.

@05Rudey 8 месяцев назад

My grandad who owned and worked on a farm since before ww2 and many years after used to call his Brown Brogues 'Town Shoes', because most of the day working on the farm he was either wearing Wellies or a pair of black Boots, similar to what he was issued during his military service as work boots that got scuffed, muddied and battered in general. He basically saw the Brown Brogues as the smarter more conservative option whilst in town than his work boots paired with his Tweed jacket. It's something that must have rubbed of on me, whilst visiting my nearest city and dress up for the occasion, Brown shoes and boots are pretty much the goto, being London a Burberry raincoat. Tweed Jacket and Brolly is also needed. I have often wondered the origin of 'No Brown in Town', very insightful.

@markhunter9264 8 месяцев назад

Older gentleman here. I’ve been wearing dress clothes to work and church for almost 50 years. Conventional wisdom when I came up for dress wear was black shoes for blue and grey and brown shoes for brown and green. Cordovan shoes were a utility shoe that you could wear with either. For all my time wearing dress clothes I’ve essentially had three pair of Oxfords in those colors. My shoes last a very long time because I’ve long put sole savers on my shoes when new, and when I wear through them, I have them replaced and get new heals at the same time. I brush my shoes before every wear, and put polish on them monthly to keep them supple. I usually get 15 or more years out of a pair. I NEVER have them resoled. I did that many years ago and the shoes never fit properly after. All this said, there is a picture of President Kennedy wearing a dark blue suit with brown shoes, and he was certainly a style icon.

@rogereriksen2472 8 месяцев назад

I fully agree with you Mark. It surely is just me and my ingrained older style, but I would feel poorly dressed with brown shoes with a dark suit. I have never done so. Also, I can not disagree more that JFK was a style icon. He certainly was a style rebel. Shunning the fedora hat gentlemen wore in his day and, as you pointed out, bucking the days style by wearing brown shoes with a navy suit. Lastly, I am way too conservative to actually wear much of the outfits displayed on Gentlemen's Gazette in public. Many appear to be costumes rather than serious daily men's wear.

@jimyoung9262 4 месяца назад

Do you put sole savers on yourself or have it done?

@markhunter9264 4 месяца назад

@@jimyoung9262 I have it done.

@jefffuhr2393 6 месяцев назад

Preston, you nailed this video with the ease and expertise of a master cobbler stretching leather on a last. Looking so effortless and so very hard to duplicate. You're a Gentleman's Gazette treasure. Congrats on your success and best wishes.

@countalma9800 7 месяцев назад

Used to wear brown shoes a lot, but as my tastes have evolved I realized I only really enjoy wearing black or tan/cognac dress shoes, with the latter being worn only late spring to late autumn. Somehow, black seems to be the only color that feels right in cold weather. Also, I live in NYC, and black shoes feel right in this urban environment.

@jimyoung9262 4 месяца назад

Yeah, black and grey is like the uniform in NY. Especially in the city....

@AllTheTimeInTheWorld 8 месяцев назад

I'm planning to buy my first pair of leather shoes in December and this video was quite helpful. My wardrobe is not very formal so I'll probably go for a pair oxfords in a lighter brown.

@justinafuchs2619 8 месяцев назад

Hmm, .. if you’re wardrobe is not very formal, just go for some Derby shoes in brown (or a lighter brown). I think they would perfectly match up with your wardrobe.

@thechairman74 8 месяцев назад

If you're looking for one pair of brown dress shoes, then derbies with a moccasin toe would be appropriate. They look less dressy than cap toes or brogues. A lot has to do with the point of the toe. The more pointed, the more dressy, the less pointed, the less dressy. Choose which type is more comfortable for you.

@masterkamen371 8 месяцев назад

@@thechairman74IMO that looks awful, looks like a work shoe. Cap toe or wing tip is the standard for a reason

@ProfessorJayTee 8 месяцев назад

...and ignore any people stating anything as an absolute, as in some do in these comments. Be you.

@tonythetourist2025 8 месяцев назад

I wear black and brown canvas shoes exclusively!😊 True story.

@FortunePayback 8 месяцев назад

This came out just in time! Finally started building my wardrobe these past few months after watching for a few years, and I've assembled a pretty good start, but I am finally going to get first pair of shoes! Now, I am overall dressing for fun and because it just feels good, so I'm overall going for more casual. That being said, brown was the obvious choice, and probably a derby, but to be honest, I'm still not completely sure. There are just so many styles and color shades that it's hard to pick just one to start with! Although this did help at least narrow it down a little bit. ...I'm definitely going to need a second closet though. I want all of the shoes.

@MaisonLafitte 6 месяцев назад

Great material!! I decide implement more classy items in my wardrobe and this channel is great help! 😀

@Anamae5451 8 месяцев назад

Love the channel guy's. I thought for a long time I was the only one who had a passion for suits. Good to know I'm not the only one and ya'll are so knowledgeable too. Keep the great content coming 👌.

@jordandegraaff 8 месяцев назад

I appreciate the updated video! I wouldn’t mind seeing more!

@davidbraid8429 7 месяцев назад

thank you Preston - very informative as always!

@theobaldlolworth4717 8 месяцев назад

Agreed, esp. dark brown shoes are very versatile, but also don't underestimate burgundy coloured ones!

@samyguerroury8980 8 месяцев назад

I really like all these old pictures. Thanks for the video

@NicolasMiari Месяц назад

Great video! Personally, I don't like wearing shoes that are lighter in color than my trousers, because of esthetic reasons. So I'll wear tan shoes with white linen pants, medium to dark brown with cream or light gray, and black with anything even approaching navy.

@davearroway1000 8 месяцев назад

Solid, informative, entertaining and calming Video in these.... strange Times. Thank you.

@lc4n333 8 месяцев назад

I have a pair of black dress shoes I wear only on most formal occassions. My everyday shoes are brown oxford with brougings. They are very versatile, easy to dress down with corduroy and denim (I only have black denims) or dress up with suits and blazers.

@jt1559 8 месяцев назад

I only wear black shoes when I have to and don't wear it all (it's all brown!) casually.

@mdsamsuzzaman671 24 дня назад

Excellent information.

@dandiehm8414 8 месяцев назад

Another good Preston video. I wish more than just a casual reference to Oxblood was mentioned, though.

@phillyfan-182 8 месяцев назад

The last 5 years I have invested in my wardrobe. Especially getting more brown dress shoes. Loafers, monk straps, derby’s, dress sneakers and oxfords

@Sartorial_Dad 8 месяцев назад

Outside of black tie and wearing a black or dark charcoal suit I almost always wear brown shoes. From loafers to spectators to monk straps to oxfords, I love brown shoes.

@pablobaio9435 8 месяцев назад

I prefer brown over black for shoes. I've several and just one black. For me is easier to combine and it has more options. Great video from Preston again. Cheers.

@Taras75357 8 месяцев назад

I had an interesting experience yesterday. I attended am afternoon wedding and after 5 reception yesterday. The wedding party wore a dark blue 3 piece suit and autumn deep deep orange tie with medium brown Oxford shoe. It coordinated very well. Not your typical formal wedding.

@liljuanito123 8 месяцев назад

It's great to have a pair of black boots/shoes for that formal event. One can have many different pairs of brown since it can vary in shades for everyday wear more casual wear.

@aravioli4203 8 месяцев назад

I think you can truly get away with owning 2 shoes, for almost any dress code. - black whole cut oxfords, which can be mirror shined for even black tie - brown half brogued oxfords, which can work for almost any common dress code. You’d probably wear your brown shoes 70 percent of the time, and black ones the remainder; the other 30 percent of the time.

@rlkinnard 7 месяцев назад

i would go with cordovan instead of brown and derbys instead of oxford. i don't like broguing.

@aravioli4203 7 месяцев назад

@@rlkinnard fair enough, I just think a mahogany brown works with many more colours than a Cordovan or oxblood brown. I love both, I really do, but I have to pick mahogany brown for it’s Versatility. Also, personally, I don’t like the vast majority open lace systems in formal wear, so I’d probably just stick with oxfords with some brogue.

@renebarba4788 2 дня назад

Great video

@jacknjill3000 5 месяцев назад

Great video and the extensive brown shoe history. I’m looking at a pair of brown double monk strap, but this pair does not have the tie cap and it’s solid. Many of the double monk strap have the toe cap. So I’m just wondering if the solid toe is an older style ?

@colin5021 8 месяцев назад

Hmmm. I reckon brown with warm tone trousers, black with colder tones. Sorry, but I just don't get blue/brown combos at all, just looks wrong to me! Likewise green/brown. But I agree that 'never wear brown in town' is past its sell-by-date. Fab stuff you guys, keep it up and greetings from the UK!

@christophermorkel.1955 7 месяцев назад

One of my favourite combinations with brown shoes, is beige chinos with a plain white golf/polo shirt, maybe slap on a blazer or sports coat if im really feeling cheeky.

@jamesrawls4426 8 месяцев назад

When I worked in the office, I often wore brown shoes. I loked wearing a pair of oxblood shoes with sharkskin grey pants and either a hunter green or royal blue shirt

@fdw1234 8 месяцев назад

Love Preston's "Agent Smith" look!!

@italogiardina8183 8 месяцев назад

A cobbler who specialised in Roman styled and brown Celtic pixy leather shoes were the choice for those classic folk music events, as well as the occasional farmers market.

@henrikfevre2109 8 месяцев назад

Great video. One thing I've always wondered is the idea of putting navy blue suits wíth black shoes. Dark blue and black are just too close to each other. It doesn't look good to these eyes, but apparently it's comme il faut. I would go with bordeaux or dark brown shoes shoes for a navy blue suit any day of the week.

@danielgalil5020 8 месяцев назад

I loved this video. Just curious, as an avid fan of dress boots to pair with suits as opposed to shoes, and tall work boots with my casual outfits to pair with my flannels and denim partly cause of regency fashion, could you do a video on why did men stop wearing dress boots? Much love.

@dandiehm8414 8 месяцев назад

Cars replaced horses. Pavement replaced dirt roads. No horse poop to get on you socks if wearing shoes.

@Looey 2 месяца назад

I have a sepia panoramic pic of my dad on his 1931 senior trip to the Capitol. All the boys wore ties. He had brown & white shoes.

@hellfire510 8 месяцев назад

Hey could you guys do a video about the shirt collar over the vest and over the jacket lapel. I see people where both like this and was wondering when this trend originated and if it's a trend that is ok to wear in menswear. Thanks.

@JT-rx1eo 8 месяцев назад

Some of those "brown" shoe examples were actually closer to oxblood color. Im looking for a good oxblood color shoe in oxford, wingtip, or derby style. And an oxblood color belt too.

@stylishoversixty9459 8 месяцев назад

I enjoy an array of various styles of brown shoes, I like to pair my brown shoes with grey flannel trousers!

@priceeubanks9341 8 месяцев назад

I'd like to see a video on black shoes. In all of your "X Pair of Shoes" videos, black cap toes are the first suggestion. I have a pair of allend admeond I caught on a big sale and am waiting for a brown pair I like to go on sale. Would like to know how to wear the black shoes, especially how to tone them down so they aren't overly formal.

@elfurrohetero3518 3 месяца назад

Preston's Puns are the best!

@DapperArtImagery 8 месяцев назад

I feel black dress shoes are more strictly suited to very formal functions like funerals. That being said, brown dress shoes can also work in similar formal functions yet offer more versatility in other areas too.

@ABC-rh7zc 8 месяцев назад

Some of the example shots were not great. If you wear brown shoes with navy then the brown must be a really dark brown. Looks great.

@Pilzmaxe 8 месяцев назад

Unusually casual outfit. I like it.

@cherry612 8 месяцев назад

Just yesterday, I thought brown is actually the versatile colour. Most of the time, I wear my brown suede loafers or my brown Oxfords. Another great colour is bordeaux. ;)

@renatop5661 4 месяца назад

This is the best explanation I found in several languages.

@miguelc619 Месяц назад

My favorite browns are the bourdeaux color.

@elfurrohetero3518 3 месяца назад

The best sentence ever! "It's always better to be slightly overdressed, than embarrasingly underdressed"

@westfieldartworks8188 8 месяцев назад

Boy I'm really looking for a pair of the shoes displayed at 13:18 - 13:20 of this video. They're obviously mid-brown brogue wingtip derby's....I think they're called " woven." Not sure. I've been looking for a pair of shoes like that since your video on Fort Belvedere sock/shoe/pants combination came out, where a pair of these " woven " mid brown brogue derby's was displayed. Thank you.

@gjp8860 8 месяцев назад

Pair Loake Chester brogues in tan with Spoke jeans rolled at ankle . Go anywhere with this combination. You do need to wear clothes above waist too😊

@jimyoung9262 4 месяца назад

Those Loake Chesters are amazing looking. I have got to get me a pair...

@williamkazak469 8 месяцев назад

My Beatles boots were square toed and black. Back in the day. I love tan shoes but I cannot wear mine in the winter. Brown is the most versatile. Wear with jeans, chinos, wool trousers. I wear brown wingtips and cap toes with the above trousers.

@LocoTwinsies 8 месяцев назад

What about with light gray slacks and a button-down business causal shirt? Would a medium brown belt and shoes work?

@dkrappenschitz9513 8 месяцев назад

Navy suit looks better with brown than black shoes

@nuttycommuter3718 8 месяцев назад

Depends on the shade of brown.

@themoderndandy713 8 месяцев назад

I respectfully disagree.

@STAXONDECK1 8 месяцев назад

Blasphemy 😂

@johnsinclair2672 8 месяцев назад

No no no.... brown shoes of any shade are an anathema with a navy blue or charcoal grey business suite. They take the eye away from the person to their feet. It shouts “I’m a clown I don’t conform and have bad taste!” 🙂

@samanthab1923 8 месяцев назад

Agreed.

@ozgurcetin2789 3 месяца назад

Would a Brown shoe not go well with just a Black Trouser and Black shirt. No jacket or tie just Trousers and a shirt?

@DavidGarcia-qs5ng 8 месяцев назад

With Tennis shorts , I like Brown Chucka boots with red plaid socks knee high. Is this alittle much? Asking for a friend.

@velviaman3206 7 месяцев назад

Is shoe polish available in the US?

@modalsoul6511 8 месяцев назад

I agree 100 💯 percent … with the exception of a light grey or dark grey suit … black shoes only ( boots for me )

@lynnglidewell7367 7 месяцев назад

Most often I wear brown shoes. I'm retired ,70 , and no longer have need of business suites so that is of no consideration for me any longer. I do wear blazers, sport coats, and cardigan sweaters, matched in various combinations like many you've here. I have brown shoes from dark to medium to tan.I also have Ox Blood loafers. I do find however that black shoes are every handsome when matched with light gray dress trousers or full suits. Also while wearing a black leather coat with light gray dress pants. Never fails to gather compliments.

@user-tj1gp8zc3o 2 месяца назад

How do I wear brown shoes with a tux?

@dapperdan9573 8 месяцев назад

What you should do you should make a video on on on why the unlike men stopped wearing thermal underwear

@daimena.cianci2651 8 месяцев назад

Another video in the "GG Remastered" line 😁

@iboofer 8 месяцев назад

Who's the guy who had the shoe on his head? He pops up every so often in your videos but I don't know his name. Will he ever get an interview video?

@roundsm18 8 месяцев назад

Interesting. Ive spent all of my office life wearing black shoes, black suit black vest. Shirts change from white to a color on Fridays and ties change daily. I do own two pairs of brown footwear - one I ride horses in, the other are hiking boots.

@Frasesdepositividad 8 месяцев назад

Brown is more versatile since it can be paired with more casual outfits like khaki chinos and jeans that otherwise would look odd with black also gray i think looks better with brown even tho it also can be paired with black brown looks awesome with every color except dark navy bue i think a very dark navy suit with brown shoes looks kinda odd and a clash of formality tough

@medhatsidaros4070 6 месяцев назад

For a beginner. Can you wear brown shoes with jeans?

@outinarizona 8 месяцев назад

hahahala. Raf...never wear that track suit with neon green again. I used to have brown shoes, dark, but that got boring. I now have med-gray suede, navy and oxblood leathers.

@karlsmith7016 8 месяцев назад

But do the same rules apply for light tan shoes?

@nesnahprotsdam 8 месяцев назад

I suggest wearing them on your feet. I once tried wearing them on my ears, but they dangle and people tend to look at you, but not in a positive way. Follow me for more great classic menswear tips!

@jhlfsc 7 месяцев назад

Lemme tell you something.... If you EVER get an invitation from someone who went so far out of their way as to prohibit wearing brown shoes to their event, that person is not your friend.

@frankv7068 8 месяцев назад

I thought burgundy was the most versatile

@samanthab1923 8 месяцев назад

I still like an Oxblood loafer

@themoderndandy713 8 месяцев назад

It's arguably the most elegant.

@vrkoven 8 месяцев назад

Oxblood/burgundy seems a natural pick with blue, brown and gray, though I"ve worn oxblood with a black suit that had a matching pinstripe. Problem is that it's getting increasingly difficult to find shoes in this color (to say nothing of socks), so I"ve been nursing along long-lived pairs of loafers and brogues.

@garrettlundy3959 8 месяцев назад

I’m still looking for an outfit for the new Allen-Edmunds ‘Ultraviolet’ shoes and boots. Maybe the Joker’s purple suit from the 1989 Batman movie…..

@nestorlabbe4317 21 день назад

¡QUñe lastima que no esté traducido al español! Me cuesta mucho seguirlo con los subtítulos automáticos. Aunque al subtitularlos los traduzcan, lo hace de una manera muy torpe y primitiva y al seguir el subtítulo se pierde detalles del video.

@linwoodavenue4300 8 месяцев назад

Brown shoes, brown belt and you can’t go wrong.

@mikehoare6093 8 месяцев назад

how I do it : white linen suit and boater : formal-black, less formal-brown spectators tweed and trilby : brown exclusively ghurka pants, jacket and any kind of headwear : brown of any kind and sole, i.e. casual wear, outdoors activities with kids, etc. black goes on black -always ! grey and blue depends on formality scale, but blue is very much universal, that´s why I commented once, first suit should be a blue three piece, single breasted. al capone : black exclusively bottom line : black is always fine, build your black footwear first, then go fancy with other shoes.

@dannythorne9761 4 месяца назад

I'm not sure what to wear with my black overcoat and brown shoes

@tenantrep 6 месяцев назад

Burgundy is nice as well

@paulmcgee1867 6 месяцев назад

On the feet works for me

@senseored 8 месяцев назад

I wear the brown shoes on my hands, but I have to admit it makes it awkward to keep to traditional silverware etiquette during dinner.

@walterfoyt5985 7 месяцев назад

While I enjoy you videos I’d love to see one on braces (suspenders), which I love.

@rlkinnard 7 месяцев назад

the number one thing that i care about when wearing a shoe is that it is comfortable; why does this almost never comes up in your discussions? Comfort, durability, and style are in that order what I care about in dress shoe.

@paulmcgee1867 6 месяцев назад

Because it's obvious?

@alexsmith4155 8 месяцев назад

I own a pair of shoes in almost every colour and by far my most worn shoes are a pair of brown dress boots

@johnmoore3817 2 месяца назад

I don't wear shoes at all anymore. Not since I discovered Thursday boots. From jeans to suits.

@user-tj1gp8zc3o 2 месяца назад

Tell Preston that he has a hip name!

@paulbugoni2846 8 месяцев назад

Brown is far more popular in Italy than black in terms of men’s shoes. Great video!

@jrooney58 8 месяцев назад

Overall, a fine presentation, however, the styles of shoe that are appropriate for business wear is much broader than you suggest. For quite some time loafers have been accepted for business wear. Bernhard Roetzel, in his classic book _Gentleman: A Timeless Guide to Fashion_, wrote that “in the USA, tassel loafers in their classic form are an accepted item of ‘business wear.’” [p 162]. Similarly, G Bruce Boyer, wrote in his 1985 classic _ Elegance_, that the Gucci loafer was “the first shoe that bridged the gap between casual and business footwear.” [p 152] Boyer continued that, while penny loafers were still too casual, “a pair of black, box calf tassel slip-ons is no longer the anathema it once was.” [p 153]. Boyer was writing in 1985. The practice of wearing loafer style shoes with business suits has only grown in the interim. Now, I recognize that business cultures can vary from place to place and from industry to industry , but in the US, pairing loafers with business suits is pretty common.

@moorshound3243 6 месяцев назад

Thinking about brown now. However having lived in black boots and shoes for my whole life, it's like jumping into the unknown?

@dakotaescher1 8 месяцев назад

I wear black dress shoes and dress boots. I have no desire to be on any trend. I wear my style and my style is classic. My style never goes out of style.

@MeToo-py1tq 4 дня назад

Can Brown shoes be worn with a brown suit?

@markalbert9390 6 месяцев назад

Not sure about the shoes, (I hate black), but I love all those cuffs.

@TheoTheTimeTravelingMagician 2 месяца назад

2:10 “if I had a nickel for every time time someone told me not to wear brown in town, I’d have 2 nickels. Which isn’t a lot, but it’s weird it happened twice, right?” - if dr. Hienz Doofenshmirtz was a Gentleman’s Gazette host

@pascalnorvins2187 8 месяцев назад

One pair of black oxford cap toe (quarter brogue is great but no more) is enough for a lifetime. Own 10 pairs of brown in different shapes and shades..

@Newman8881 7 месяцев назад

How about burgundy??

@ABC-rh7zc 8 месяцев назад

Tan shoes can look attractive on their own but match with very little. White jeans/trousers go with tan shoes but not much else.

@MaryReed-iy7fq 2 месяца назад

My next shoe purchase will be brown.

@TalkingDonkey2 8 месяцев назад

🔥🔥🔥🔥

@fumanpoo4725 8 месяцев назад

Blends well with dog doo.

@awalton9024 7 месяцев назад

No fashion faux pas during the 70s, no matter how big a crime against humanity, was seen as a significant offense.

@rogergirouard 14 дней назад

most of my shoes are brown ,maroon ,cordovan, oxblood, i do have black shoes but don't care much about black, i don't really own nuch dark clothing that would call for wearing black,