Well it's better cable being long than short as you can always easily compensate for any mistakes with cable lengths. My previous electrician cut through the entire joist to fit a down light and it was only hanging by the thread. He made the hole at the wrong place and did a quick job of covering up his mistake by causing more damage by drilling right through joist aswell. Not in one place but 2 different places.
Couldn't help but notice . You didn't show wriggling and twisting about when pushing the FCU. back to the wall . and all the cussing that takes place coz of the bloody stiff wires 😮
Had a sparks install my kitchen, what a pigs ear he made of it. Even ran the 4.8 kWh oven from the ring. Took much bitchin to get the idiot out to install a spur from the consumer unit. The joys of an induction stove and a double oven, hopefully the idiot now knows better, but I should not be the one instructing him as I am the customer. They your Apprentice with this one "whats a d.p.d.t switch"...
Is the super rod camera better than the ferret? Nice to see a fellow sparks who doesn’t run a 6mm swa out for a few sockets & lights in a outbuilding! 13amp switched spur is more then enough most the time. 👌🏻
Multi-tool for cutting plasterboard walls all day every day. Pad saw is slow and nearly always damages the board as the teeth on the blade are very large
Why are you sleeving the grey conductor black, when you already had a black conductor to use? What I mean is, why didn't you chose to use thd grey as cpc and then you wouldn't have had to sleeve both conductors?
@@Cjrelectrical but what would be the best? I suppose if you have a spare in the main CU and easy access to run the cable, you would probably pick that option.
It depends on expected load as well as convenience of cable run from CU. If it's a long way, and a small load, no point doing it. If it needs a large load, it's necessary but very expensive. A small outdoor room might draw 1.5 kW heating and a few hundred watts for TV, lighting, computer etc. Fine on 13A.
Ionisation Smoke Alarms are largely obsolete, having been banned in Germany, France and some other EU member states for a few years because they contain radioactive material. You should only be fitting Optical Smoke Alarms. Heat Detectors in Kitchen areas.
EU precautionary principle nonsense. They react differently to different types of fires, therefore have their uses, and you can't always predict what type of fire you're going to have so can't always predict what type of sensor you're going to need and it isn't always optical or heat detector. There's zero risk from the radiation unless you literally take them apart - don't be like David Hahn. Actually, if anything you really want dual sensor smoke alarms with both optical _and_ ionising detectors, though most would say one is good enough - but dual is the "perfect" solution because it responds quickly to both the sorts of fires that trigger them. I dunno, I have a heat detector in my office because I vape, but still - as a generic install option dual sensor is best and properly solves the problem of correctly selecting (or more accurately predicting) which you need. Ionisation detectors are far from obsolete - modern optical detectors are good, but they're not perfect which is why dual sensor detectors are a thing made by the best smoke detector manufacturers.
Should the carbon monoxide alarms be 😊on a separate circuit so the tenant knows how to react for carbon vrs smoke. If all alarms sound you will not know if it's smoke or carbon
Correct..Carbon monoxide and smoke detectors are not allowed to be interlinked, they can be on the same circuit, but must alarm/sound separately. Chris said that he was fitting a combined detector, so it may respond differently to heat/Carbon monoxide.
The standard Aico Fire alarm pattern is a continuous rapid pulsing sound type, while the distinctive Carbon Monoxide alarm pattern is a repeating cycle of 3 slower sound pulses followed by a pause. On the Ei3028, the LED display will indicate if Fire or CO is detected. The flash rate of the red LED indicator is dependent on the alarm event type, and in the case of CO, on the level detected. Table B shows how the CO sensor reacts to different levels of CO gas and exposure time.
Another fantastic video, have been watching your content for quite a while now, very educational and I enjoy seeing all the latest stuff being installed, I have one little tip for you, was watching you cut the plasterboard with the pad saw and I cringed at you thumping the end of the saw, I only cringed as it looks painful, try twisting the saw back and forth with little pressure, I think your hands will thank you for this one day. Cheers
