Check the jet block and jet block gasket of the carburetor. These can cause rich conditions that can't be fixed by jetting changes due to allowing unmetered fuel to leak past.
I have heard that oring can cause trouble, but have never come across one that had failed. I do remember hoping replacing it would help my kdx200 carburetor, but it wasn't the issue. Thanks for the comment!
@@jenniesgarage try 32:1 with original carb. If that still not the fix then I'm with this guy on jet block. If you ever have questions or need help I work at northstate powersports in chico I'd be happy to help you out
3:13 in Pennsylvania USA not cold rn but lots of other issues that lead me to binge watching Jennie’s garage the night I discovered the channel I also have plenty of beer and despite what most people say it definitely helps!
The wholesomness of your wife and you running this channel is wholesome enough, (my wife wouldn't dare), to get my attention. The fact that you actually fix things is icing on the cake.
I would check the basics and make sure the float height is right and the needle is at the stock clip height (if it’s adjustable). It’s possible that someone tried to hot rod it by jetting it too much. People do funny things trying to make more power. Also (I need to remind myself of this because I always jump straight to the carb for nearly ANY issue), but a weak spark can cause a rich condition, but that’s likely a long shot to be honest.
Weak spark bc of coil that deteriorated could be very possible. had that happen quite often , the last couple of bikes I had. I think here is more than likely rings and maybe coil
I have the same bike and had all the spooge and smoke also, yours sounded better and responded better to throttle with the second carb. However , only adjust the air/ fuel mixture when the bike is warmed up as you’ll be chasing the wind in your setup if not. Love your fun videos guys, you explain things really well.
When you said you could fix Hard Times' rich-mixture problem with things around the house, I figured you'd integrate Camera Girl with the carburetor...on accounta she's always a breath of fresh air. (nyuck nyuck nyuck)
It’s been a while since I have seen Jennie’s Garage. Happened to see a new episode and am catching back up. You guys are on your way to a million subscribers and RU-vid stars. I can binge watch your content. Thank you so much!
I'll take what you call "clunky" editing to keep the content flowing. I love the channel! I once changed out a worn out carb on an older 2 stroke golf cart with a replacement. It not only brought it to life, but I saved enough money in gas to pay for it in a month of use! Keep it coming however ya can!
Hello guys, thank you for this video. I love to follow the Hard times recovery. I'm hooked to the carburator tunning arc! This format more RAW is ok for me. I watch your videos to see mechanic, dad jokes and smoke!
Fuel/air mixture screws in or out to lean or richen the idle circuit changes whether it's before or after the slide. On your carb with the screw nearest the air inlet it's an air screw. It was originally screwed fully in which makes it rich. If the screw was on the engine side it's a fuel screw & turning in reduces fuel making a lean mixture. Love the channel & caught the lord of the rings potato reference. Precious!
Adjusting the mixture screw way too much at a time. Also the crank case can hold oil/fuel down in the bottom. Gotta clear it out. Also gotta warm that thing up! It's not going to run perfect when it's cold
My guess is the previous owner messed with the jetting trying to make more power without a clue. I'd check what jets are stock against what's in there.
Usually in rich case I'll drop the pin first and go from there depending on how it runs in top also it look like it's do for new rings that's alot smoke but iam used to 32.1 when I drag race and only use good oil and fuel keep up great work and have a wonderful day.
I was running 40:1 on my yz 125 out of ignorance. I experienced all of these problems you have. Spooge, hard idle, and lots of smoke. I switched over to a JD jetting kit and that made it worse. I changed to a 32:1 ratio and played with the mixture screw and it perked it up immediately!
Sometimes the jet needle wears down the inside of the emulsion tube. Remove the needle and drop it straight in. If it goes all the way down, it’s worn out. I’ve had the lay happen with Keihen carbs. Had a 1994 Suzuki 125 that needed a carb replacement because of that.
All the talk about carburetors reminded me about the video what was one of the 1st videos i watched from you, where you were testing fuel consumption between worn out, chinese clone and new genuine carburetors. I still think about that video every time i mess with carburetors
I love your channel honest people honest videos and can have a laugh as well fantastic. Sorry can't help on the bikes as I have no clue as Im thick when it comes to mechanical things but I do love hard times
Hey loving the vids for a while now! The airscrew is an easy beast to tackle, turn the screw fully in not tight just against the seat and then turn it 1 full turn out and then half so 1 1/2 turn total this should make for a good tuning base. Turning in the screw will cause a rich running condition at idle till 1/4 throttle Turning out the screw will cause a lean running condition till 1/4 throttle Give the bike a lively idle and then turn it down do a desired idle when the bike is warm. Hope it helps you’ve been one of the driving factors of me chasing the 2 stroke beast! Bye :)
Love the video!! It’s great to see you drop two videos so close to each other. I am not a motorcycle guy, but I have always enjoyed your videos. I am a long time subscriber and I have always felt it would be nice to see more videos from you. I truly believe if you could manage to drop a video once a week to every 10 days that your channel could really really grow. Don’t stress the editing, me and all the people that watch your channel enjoy the content that you and your wife put out. I wish nothing but great things for you two, and truly hope to see more and more content soon.
Love these vids, your channel caused me to create my own, I had a leaking carb issue which poured most of the fuel onto the floor, once I fixed it, I did a burnout then bought a new tyre😂 not a plug but if you want to watch - it’s called “wife’s out bikes out” That vid is because of you guys😉👍 btw I full restored that bike and sold it, wouldn’t have happened without you two🤙🤙 From downunder🤘
i had a kehin carb with a worn out seat for the float needle. changed the float needle to a brand new but still leaked fuel from the overflow hose (i tried adjusting the float level too). Almost impossible to replace unless you got some special tools and skill. The carburator on "Hard times" doesnt have that issue but carburators can get worn out in many strange ways. The worst kind of dirtbike carburator clowns are the people that cut the throttle spring and think they are saving weight or something. The only thing it will give you is whiskeythrottle and its not very fun when it is a CR500.
The first thing I would do is pull the plug and see how oily it is the second is a compression test because a lot of your issues lead me to believe its got bad ring seal.
Is it losing trans fluid at all and fouling plugs? If so the rich condition could be a worn transmission side crank seal which happens a lot on bikes that have sat for a long time. A way to test is to put in new oil (measure how much you put in) ride it for a afternoon and drain and re-measure. Just an idea.
I'm thinking two things, fuel mix is the first one and the compression ring is worn. That would explain why it's ok when it's cold but falls on its face once the ring starts to heat up. It's getting softer and allowing blow by. Simple compression test would answer that one. Check it cold, then run it until it starts its idunwannarun tricks. See what you get then.
Compression test and leak down test. I wonder how many hours are on the engine since rebuild? Need to physically check the condition of the piston, rings, and cylinder in addition to tests.
The exhaust is blue. You are burning transmission fluid. Change the crank seal. If that doesn't work, change the center case gasket. Those are the only two ways transmission fluid can get in the combustion chamber. Crank seal is easier to replace and way more common.
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I was fighting a TZR 125 running rich no matter what for a year. Turned out the emulsion sube was worn out and the needle could never close it completely.
Usually you can adjust the pin on a slide carb to richen or lean the mix out when revving up, if they raised it too much, it'll be too rich and leave the idle mix rendered utterly pointless, and make your bike more of a mosquito-fogger than anything... :P
Make sure you buy correct O ring .Air Stryker 1 has screw top ,Air Stryker 2 has square top with 2 Phillips heads .They use different jet-black o rings
I've rarely ever just swapped a carb and had it work well. Did you compare jet sizes? I would have just dropped 1 or 2 main jet sizes, and it probably needs a new needle on the slide. A large needle will lean it out through out the entire rpm range. U can test that by raising the clip all the way to drop the needle all the way. If it has no change then that verifies you need a smaller main or thicker needle. Same goes for idle. It's rich so u would back the air screw out all the way to lean it, if it goes passed 3 turns out u need to down size the pilot jet. So jetting can all be verified without purchasing anything. Jet block gasket could also be gone. Broken reeds, bad crank seal sucking in gear oil which is prob likely since its oozing oil. I doubt it's the top end. It's in the jetting but u can always remove expansion chamber and see piston before pulling top end off. If it has good compression I'd assume it's fine for now. I was ready to buy it lol still am. And hey Rudolph lol I'm jk, but hey it's always best to tune the carb warmed up, after a ride with load on the engine so it's cleared out, fully up to temp, and less residual buildup in the crank case. You absolutely do have alot of excess oil/fuel mix down there. It takes a good winding out of rpms to clear that so if it's sucking gear oil, tuning is going to be difficult cold and not cleared out. If they ran that bike in the desert sand, they always jet them way up fat so they don't melt the piston in the hot desert under heavy load so my go to would be jetting right off the rip. Idc what the internet says the jet size should be. That's just a guide. Just follow what the bike is telling you and jet accordingly. Those specs online can't accommodate every sea level, every temp, every atmospheric pressure etc. It's a starting point. I really hope you get Ole hard times going but I hope u don't and get sick of it and sell me it finally lmao 😂😂❤❤
ive had a couple 2 strokes where the crank seal leaks and it gets the gearbox oil in the engine. I never actually pressure tested which i guess i could have but it was pretty obvious bercause of all the oil dripping out of the exhaust and the smoke
I’ve been battling a rich condition myself. The bike takes forever to fire up. I’ve got a brand new needle in there and jets are new too. When the choke is on and it fires it revs to the moon until I turn the choke off. While warmed up and running it seems to run great. Revs quickly etc. lots of spooge out the tailpipe though. I’ve currently got the needle in #3 or #4 position. It refuses to idle down. So I have it set at a slightly elevated idle because that’s where it seems to like to be at. If I mess with it and back off the slide screw for idle it seems to hang then it will die out. I’m just wondering if something is worn out in there and I need to replace the whole carb. I have a spare that I need to go through and test out. Just haven’t gotten that far yet.
Could always use smaller jets. Someone went too big with the jets. Or put a turbo on it to supercharge it with more air to compensate with the fuel be too much. Maybe the intake is clogged up and not getting enough air. Check for air leaks or change the jets. Ya rings could be gone as well and not enough compression and not burning all the fuel mixture would cause it to run rich. New carb did improve the power in each stroke, just sounds peppier.
it appears someone has changed the throttle needle height position (tiny E-clip) and tried to compensate with idle adjustment. Lol that dont work as you see. Either the main jet has been replaced by larger, or the jet needle is set wrong.
Oil Rings or Valve seals... just watched another video with same issue... although that was a 4 stroke.. and this sounds like a 2 stroke... might be mixing oil in gas too rich? 20:1 isn't it... I haven't ridden since 1990's...
2 strokes being Smokey, can actually be both, Rich or Lean.... As you very well state.. Rich is when you have more fuel than you do air... BUT.... Also. People always assume that more oil content in the fuel, Is RICHER too... Which is actually not true... More oil in your fuel, Can also be a cause of added smoke... Which more oil content in fuel, Actually causes your engine to run Leaner, while still being smokey due to the higher oil content... Remember.. Oil / fuel mix is in "parts".... 40 parts gas, to 1 part oil etc etc.. A carburettor only draws in a set amount, due to its jet hole sizes... The higher the oil content in the fuel.. the LESS fuel your engine is actually receiving, because there is less fuel to oil ratio in the "parts" the carb inducts... So your engines Air/fuel ratio, is actually LEANER All while still being extra smokey, due to the "too much oil".....
Is there pre-mix in the tank? It does seem very smoky and the oil dripping from the exhaust suggests it's getting too much 2 cycle oil which will cause running issues. Perhaps check the oil pump setting?
Put your expansion pipe in a bed of coals and every now and again rotate until the smoke stops coming out this burns of a oil layer in the header redo the exhaust packing and checking the reeds
Question, I have a 2000 xr100r and it seems to run rich with stock jets with the original oem carb just rebuilt recently with oem Japan kit and also with a cheap new china carb . I thought maybe I need new piston rings possibly. Ironically it runs pretty dang good based on what I feel . I have not compression tested it yet . But if I do could I get away with hone and new rings ? Thanks
As much as I love two stroke I hate them😅They are relative sensitive engines. Little bit two rich,little bit to lean and they run like….🙈but when they work the way they should ❤
