Really enjoy these Tuesday chats. I like that you dedicate time to review your viewer comments and then set aside time to discuss the issues with subs...very thoughtful
My bike’s a 98 Guzzi California - a few months after I got it I did the valves - purely out of curiosity - an hours work and still within tolerance. Also , with an old guzzi you can hear when they need doing ! 😂
It’s quite simple, motorcycles communicate with you, so long as you religiously check your fuel consumption (indicator of the efficiency of the engine) and it remains the same and it sounds ok, all she is asking for in good oil twice as often as the manufacturer says AND make sure it is changed at 600 miles from new!! 50 years of riding and always done my own servicing backs up my words. Never done a tappet service yet.
i got 320 thousand miles out of my 600 fazer till the gearbox give up,never change clutch,still on same engine no oil burning had it for 12 years,still went fast
That’s not a feat of the harley, at all. Buy used, maintain and sell it, you will never lose money unless the market drops, not happend in the past few years where everything exploded. But market waves go up and down. Effectively you made a loss, as the high inflationary impact of recent years, even the ones before monetary inflation, but higher demand than usual should have brought you 20-40% higher resale, even on the highly afloat used market of harleys.
@GiancarloBenzina That's a fair point but a 20-40% higher resale value 4 years later is never going to happen in the real world . I was just joyous I didn't get spanked on the resale value !
My 800cc twin BMW is overdue a valve clearance check. Everyone (not just on forums but mechanic's as well) say the mileage quoted for the clearance is none sense. Double that mileage is fine and even then the shims will be still be OK.
True, but I have two 800cc twins, an R and an F. The F may go to 48k before needing adjustment, but the R needs to be done every 4000 due to early motors suffering valve seat recession. It's no hardship, the R only takes one hour, the F two days!
Moto Guzzis make so much sense. A famous and desirable motorcycle badge with a famous racing history. Characterful, stylish, unique, easy to maintain and unlikely to lose you money over time….what’s not to love if you like your motorcycling? As one ages, one realises that mega-bhp, speed, wheelies and the like are not that important. Flash passes, class always hangs around.
I've had four vfr,s. Not one needed shims. Amazing engine and build quality. Honda only made money on them by the quantity they sold, not the servicing costs. Now have a Pan European...another amazing engine.
All dealers incl Honda are cashing on servicing, been quoted for a 16k valve service on my Trans Alp appx £850, thats taking the Pxxx, either I do it myself or not bother if I keep it that long.
I have a Moto Guzzi V85tt , ( that you reviewed some time ago ) I agree ☝️ with other Guzzi owners, maintenance is relatively simple, I’ve change engine oil and filter , transmission oil and shaft oil , haven’t done Valve adjustment yet as bike is still under warranty and will be due soon .
Personally, I don’t think it’s irresponsible to not want to spend on maintenance more than the bike is worth per say, but when you shop for a bike you should take into account what needs doing to it, what you want from the bike (e.g are you planning on keeping it long term or looking to sell it on?) personally if I were to buy a VRF I’d learn to work on it myself as a project, although I’d prefer to work on a classic bike than that. Restoration builds wouldn’t exist if people weren’t willing to put in more money than they are worth. In the real world if you just wanted something to run around and can accept the fact that it will cost more to repair or worked than its worth and you’re okay with just scrapping it and moving on then I wouldn’t bother with valve clearance on that specific bike if it’s a non-issue.
Freddy, I have 2 victory motorbikes, 1 Vegas, and 1 Cossroads. I don't think I will ever own any other make again, not even the Indian. These engines were built to last and are so easy to maintain.
All in jest Freddie. I happen to own a ‘98 VFR800 which has done 26k miles. I do take care of it. I come from a racing background in years past, so I’m used to spannering but there is something very special about doing stuff yourself. Much harder without a garage but small jobs can be done. I checked the valves on mine about a year ago ‘just because’. I can’t imagine doing it again until 50k miles. Gear driven cams as well, so very little that needs maintaining beyond the usual. Replacing perished hoses that are out of sight is something a lot of people forget. If I was spending money with a mechanic on an older bike, I’d start there.
Hi Freddie, My brother and I are going from Limerick,Ireland to Crete,Greece in June.. any pointers.. I'm on a new dl650xt and my brother is on an immaculate deauville 650nt
I have an 87 Sportster and a 22 Moto Guzzi V7 stone. Couldn't agree more re maintenence. If the MG had hydraulic lifters and proper clocks it would be perfect for me.
Gold star for your perfect prononciation of Husqvarna. As a Swede it's amazing to see the evolution of the brand even though they're not affiliated with Husqvarna in Sweden anymore. The 901 Norden as well as the Svartpilen 401 are so cool bikes. I really recommend you trying them both out for your self. The 901 is imposing in a very nice way. Much like the Yamaha Super Tenere 1200.
That’s where the boxer engine was easier to service. Servicing an air head 2 valve boxer engine could be done in about 30 mins and was very, very easy with no special tools req.
I think one of the reasons the Valve clearance checks are so expensive on certain bikes and cheap on others are that the Guzzi's for example have the transverse engine and the valvecovers are VERY easy to access. The Japanese R4 sportsbikes are the exakt opposite. I'm currently working on cleaning and rebuilding the carburettors on my 1996 Suzuki DR800s, and I had to remove almost everything external on the bike, like fairings, tank, seat, side covers, batterytray, ECU and airbox to remove the carbs to clean them. I guess it's the same issue with the valve checks on many sportbikes.
Re the £1,500 VFR. You'd be daft to pay £1.200 for valve check. Presumably the valves were not clattering when one bought it so just keep riding it! What;s the worst that can happen? If the valves are not noisy they are unlikely to suddenly become noisy. VFRs use shims to set the valve clearance, so far less likely to require adjustment than conventional 'screw and lock nut' tappets. Regarding belt drive, it has to be the way to go. I'm amazed how many bikes still use chains when modern long-life zero-maintenance (no lube or adjustment) required belts are available. Chains work well when totally enclosed in an an oil bath (such as valve timing chains in engines) where they are superior to belts. But for the exposed life of a bike transmission, belts are far better. And they are lighter and cheaper than shaft drives, and more efficient. Mechanics won't use 2nd hand parts as, being pre-used, they may fail prematurely, then the mechanic will get the blame for not doing a proper job! Best Vince
Hi Freddie, On the subject of the value clearance check I bought a tiger 900 last year which is now on 12,000 miles so due the big service including the value checks 😮 maybe I should of done my homework but I honesty thought the value check was due about 18 -24k I have been quoted between £650 -£900 + for the service but what I find is strange is the new 2024 model tiger the value check is now recommended at 18000 miles which is as far as I know is the same engine with a few tweaks makes you think like 🤔
Hello Freddie. Owned my Aprilia RSV 1000 since 2006. Was 5 months old. Had valve checks done sporadically. Never changed. The bikes got 60,000 registered miles but has done more. (the 05/6) models, can reset their odos. Last check 2 years, ago was £500. All in spec.
Home-servicing is a way forward for many people with one note of caution: you need basic competence. If colleges still do night classes in bike or car mechanics this is a great starting point. Otherwise it's easy to damage your bike through inexperience (stripping threads, rounding off heads, scratching gasket surfaces, breaking snap-fit parts, inaccurate timing, alignment or tension, poor electrical connections, the list is endless). You need patience, perseverance and accurate measurement. Once you've got the basics (and the appropriate tools) you can follow RU-vid videos, forum advice or workshop manuals to get most jobs done. As a young man I trained as a truck mechanic: I didn't enjoy it much at the time, but the skills I acquired have been useful ever since.
Comment of the day. Learn how to look after your bike and do it properly. Much better than scouring the internet for people to tell you that you don’t need to bother with stuff.
@@jasonk7072 That's all very well if you are competent at that sort of thing but some people aren't, so a garage is the only option. As Freddie mentioned with the guy who bought a bike for £1800. It would be pointless spending £1200 on valve clearances when the bike is only worth that amount and the fact that many people have said that they have never had problems with valve clearances. It's all about risk analysis, which is something they should have taken in the pandemic.
A quick look through the comments and I’m gobsmacked. Apparently nobody has ever needed valve clearances done no matter the mileage. Total BS. Every bike I ever owned, with the exception of an XJR1300 and and. ZXR9 Ninja needed periodic shims or screw and nut adjustment. Smaller the bike the shorter the period needed between adjustments.
Had a few Honda's and had valves checked but never need shims. Currently run a Ducati MTS. just had another (39k miles) full Desmo service , vales, belts, oil, coolant and brake fluid. Only one ex valve adjusted as it would be out at next service. £1000 incl (specialist), and I know all the work was completed in full.
Hearing about the motto guzzi and cost of servicing reminds me of my old cx500 Honda, with shaft drive and cylinder heads that aren’t hidden under a fuel tank made servicing very easy. It strikes me that we have gone backwards in regards to servicing of motor cycles, or is this what the manufacturers want to get more money out of us!
Im planning to replace my 80s royal enfied small end bush a complete top end strip cost 20 pound time a couple of hours ,,, I will take a day cause im in no hurry ,, I will also replace all the carb gaskets , centre stand springs
Valves, if your bike is in warranty you have to do what you have to do to keep it in warranty. After that, know what you have. Hydraulic valves will probably never need anything unless the bike is abused. Shimed valves and taper valves might need to get adjusted. The trick is that they make a tapping noise when they fall out of spec. It sounds the same as a small exhaust leak so check that first but if you suddenly notice a slight tapping sound from the engine. Adjust your valves. Other than a feeler gauge there's no special tools needed. The hardest part of the job is all the stuff you have to remove to get to them. Also if you own Japanese and plan to work on it all spend a few bucks on a set JIS screwdrivers. Not expensive and will save you a ton of heartache. Buy the shop manual for your bike and watch some you tube before or even as a refresher for any job you are lacking confidence in. No one is going to be more concerned about the job being done right on your bike than you. Work safe, ride safe.
Also , YES, modern "Honda" ( I say honda cause thats my experience ) Checking top end IS NOT difficult get a manual, the pain is the plastic removal imho and yes you can run these japanese bike to 100 000 and not need a valve check just replace the oil often then one day the bike will become hard to start
'Acme Clockwork Magnetos - mechanically timed sparks - just when you need them most! Suitable for any no. cylinder engine, fit & forget . . . So, no 'Year 2000' worries for you, eh?' "Sorry, you've got a new 2027 Guzzler RR six-pot & no spark? - We're on our way ma'am.' : )
Hi Freddie my Moto Guzzi California EV has hydraulic valves so no need to adjust great for me. Back in the early 1980s I owned a 250SX Harley Davidson 2 stroke which was really badged a Gagiva.
I second the thoughts on Moto Guzzi. Very simple and cheap to service, and you have the privilege of owning and riding one of the most stylish and oldest manufactured motorcycle in the world with a rich history in European racing and manufacturing. I’m currently awaiting delivery of the new V100 Stelvio, my fourth MG😎
I don’t know how you could be so calm to do this podcast only a few hours before flying to India ! Quite a few people have commented about leaving valve clearance checks if the bike is running okay. Gradual changes in performance however may be imperceptible over a long period of time. If the clearances get bigger you should be able to hear that your top end is noisier (a tapping sound), you don’t need to be a mechanic to notice this, I’m not. Admittedly if the clearances tighten it’s not so easy to hear, although people say your engine will feel “harsh”. Simplicity is one of the reasons I prefer twin cylinder motorcycles and you read a comment about Harleys and Guzzis which is equally applicable to boxer engines, certainly the air cooled and air/oil cooled BMW’s 🇬🇧
9:27 I think you need to distinguish between the sportster engine and the TC/M8 engines. Sportster is a noisy, rattly miracle of an engine but it’s reliable as hell. Especially, especially the carb model. This is coming from someone who owns a carb Dyna, a V7ii and a couple of 70s triumph 750s ………. (Valve clearance adjustment is zero pounds for the last three)
My mate here in Germany has just put his bike ( BMW GT 1600 ) in for a full service plus rear tyre... Don't go giddy... 2300 euros..... That's twice as much as the complete touring holiday we have planned in Slovenia. PS have a great holiday.
Furkinell.. I paid £2500 for my '97 1100ev Cali two years back n it had just been fully serviced with brand new rubber in great condition n 33000 km on the clock. I'll stick with my Guzzis 😊
I do all my own mainenance. I just don't trust mechanics to do everythimng they say they do. I've never done a valve clearance check on any bike I've owned. Now I have a Guzzi V7 all I do is the oils, filters and brake pads and because I do it myself I can do it more often if needed. I upgraded the exhaust and remapped it myself. If theres ever a sale get the bits in while they're cheap. I was always told good oil keeps the engine young.
Yup! I've had some fancy machinery with all the electronic bells and whistles (and been disappointed). When you first roll them out of the showroom, it all seems great, but the reality is they cost an arm and a leg to keep maintained, and in 10 years time, they will only be fit for scrap - parts, if you can get them, will make it financially unviable to keep them on the road. My solution? I've got a Harley Low Rider and an Enfield 650 Interceptor (a Moto Guzzi V7 may be on the cards too). I can maintain them myself, parts are inexpensive and readily available, and they are an absolute pleasure/hoot to ride - I would take either of them anywhere. And, come the apocalypse, I could probably convert either of them to carb and simple electronic ignition (I draw the line at going back to contact breakers)
I find these repair costs you are quoting absolutely incredible. I have had my 1988 BMW K75 since 2008. Zero depreciation costs. I do all my own maintenance. Had no big bills. When the starter motor played up a few years ago, I simply replaced the brushes, and no more trouble. I have not adjusted the valves (I did check the clearances once). When the fuel injection ECU (brain) played up in extreme heat (about 45 degrees in Spain) I replaced it with a second hand one from Ebay. Yesterday evening and this morning I have been booking hotels for my trip to Merzouga, Morocco next month. All my friends will be on modern expensive bikes (group of 7). I have no desire to change my 36 year old adventure bike. (Combined age of bike and rider is 105 years). Have a great time in India.
There’s a few parameters: - how much do you ride a year? That determines if service and consumeables have a relevant effect or not. - are you bad in negotiating a very good bike to a much lower price? - are you any good in selling a bike in maintenance need to a shiny perfect bike price? - do you take real care about your bike, end2end maintenance, dry storage, weather and road conditions, …? Before you calculate cost for service, tires, etc. these do make a much much bigger difference. The technicalities otherwise are simple: - chose a brand that has a wide dealership with trusteable quality workshops: > i.e. Yamaha, Suzuki. - chose a bike that’s available used with 4-5yrs and in-line twin, or tractor v-twins. - chose a bike with long maintenance intervals, low-manufacturer service charges and standard narrower tires, and less power than your average pub hero’s johnny length in milimeters. - chose a bike where the models don’t change in 20plus years, but is still a solid recent market runner, if not still available. Tataaaa, where are we? Suzuki SV650! Or Vstrom650! Ugly? Well, make it nicer. Or try a Yam CP2 engined bike, a Kawa Z650. Yes I know, Harley, Moto Guzzi, all that. You’re a fool if you believe yourself. Evolutions and LeMans/California’s are too old and need meanwhile constant attention or an expensive professional full rebuild. V7-750 Guzzis are the crap of yesterday, they worked in city and when new, change the clutch, please, and wonder what effect it has if an old mini-tractor has a tiny oil-reservoir. Yes, they’re great - when recent. We have worked on them as students for decades and they run, mostly not, until we fixed it, with our unprofessional idea of fixing cheap “reliable” and “fast” bikes. You forget with older bikes that workshops don’t want to touch them anymore, 99% have changed their way of operations to parts-replacement, especially MotoGuzzi, most are piaggio brands dealers, that don’t deal with older stuff that’s not fresh in the portfolio. Same with other Brands. Just ask them for a 1992 Brembo brake pump of a Monster or a V10/Centauro. They don’t have it, not even in the catalog, they don’t even know what you’re talking about. thus stop BS yourself, get a decent looking “beginner” japanese bike, ride it, care for it and service it. They are the best and there’s always a youngster happy to take it off you, once you want to change. You’re stubborn and want to tell me Harley stories? Yes? Buy one and then let me know how cheap you got with it. It’s all BS, unless you can apply the main principles of good purchase, perfect maintenance and hero-like selling. Any other will cost you lots of money. parts ain’t cheap on Harley! Not now, not yesterday, never before. It’s only cheap if you don’t maintain it and even then, the oild cost you money, lot’s of oil and a that twice (gearbox, engine, …). Your odyssey with triumph, well, you bought a fashion device, not a motorcycle. Trinckley has been clear on that since 1995. They were interested more in selling the Brand than in actual quality and still are. The superficial pseudo-quality of style (that is where they shine) and “look-a-like” (pro suspension and carb) is their culture! Pretenders! Like so many on that Island, sorry, to say, but 40yrs of dealing in business and private taught me a lot. The old Triumph I like, yes, they’re even more rubbish, but they are original, and much simpler, no, meanwhile not cheaper to run, weren’t then either. The cheapest bike to self-maintain and roll-on I think from the section of cool bikes are the ones your law-system wants to get rid off, too. 1998-2003 motorcycles in perfect condition at 1/4th of the price, that are no collectible or junk-sourcing for bobber re-builds (like the Beemers are still). Try a 883/1200 sportster, a Twin-Cam 88B big-twin wide-glide, a Yamaha SRX6, a MG Sport 1100 carb, Kawasaki W650/W800 (protect from Rust!)…
Back in the mid 90s my mechanic told me it wasn't worth doing a valve check as they were never out anyway. It was obvious the bike was running perfectly, so why not just run it and see how you go? It would be a shame to kill a lovely old Honda but really? Anyone ever seen a dead VFR engine? Oil, filters, tyres, pads, fork oil and coolant. Two hundred quid tops, do it yourself-able. Happy days!
Did my big service at 12k on my Street Triple,no adjustment needed and I'm yet to find one that's be out of tolerance the valve adjustment service isn't that difficult to do but the dealer service is a com
Interestingly Freddie, the only other bike I know of which has hydraulic valves, which never need manual adjustment because they self adjust is...... The Royal Enfield Classic 500, which ceased production in 2020. Servicing for these bikes is always just oil, filters and lube.
The old Husqvarna factory in Varese, Italy is still being used by SWM motorcycles, they even bought some patents of old Husqvarna engines which they still use in the new SWM bikes.
Lot to be said for old classic bikes, points ignition, no computers, two valves per cylinder, no complex electronics or rider aids, my Z1 will live for ever!
Electrolux was the best, most expensive, longest lasting vacuum cleaner of all time. Easily repairable, high quality, now gone forever. The Husky is a KTM 890 in nicer clothes, for whatever that's worth....
I'm really interested in owning a motorcycle that would last forever. I like small size machines like 125 cc or smaller scooters. My KYMCO Agility has screws falling off of it regularly. It only has about 5600 miles on it so far. I think that a new Honda Trail 125 or (Hunter Cub) might be something that could last long. I like the looks of the Royal Enfield Meteors and Classics, but they are really heavy machines. They weigh almost double the Agility 125. The low stressed RE engines probably would last forever. The Buel blast 500 motorcycles (half a Sportster) had a bad reputation for breaking, even with belt drive and hydraulic valve adjustment. Harley Davidsons to this day have a bad reputation for breaking. Their Evo motors were supposedly great. Yet compared to other brands they still require lots of work beyond just changing fluids. I have read that the Suzuki V twin 650 motors are nearly indestructible. What motorcycles of 300 cc and smaller have reputations for lasting forever? I don't mean age wise. I mean miles wise. A fifty year old Honda Cub with just 3000 miles isn't really long lasting. It is long existing.
Every bike I've owned since 2000 hasn't needed valve clearances adjusted. I've just checked them. Now i don't do it. If you look after the bike, service it regularly with quality parts & oils, when riding it appy mechanical sympathy.
I think this service and original parts topic is the DIRTY SECRET of the motorcycle industry. Servicing costs are fast becoming a good reason to NOT get a motorcycle.
Oliver's story of the Legend was one of the best ever told on the podcast. It's amazing how much nostalgia tugs on us, I've ridden and loved so many different bikes, but the thump of a big v-twin is still the closest thing to my heart. I can still smell the salty, lush air of coastal Carolina backroads and feel the chill of passing through a creek basin on a warm day-all from the pillion seat of my dad's Yamaha V Star. I've tried the big bikes and found I didn't care for the weight, preferring the smaller, lighter machines instead. The Meteor 350 was the first bike in a while that felt special; it is a dream to handle while running errands and carried me on a 1000mi trip with poise (well and the occasional downshift on a big hill). The Daytona 675 I had for a short period was fantastically sharp, it still tops any sportbike I've ever ridden. Even still, seeing a big, gleaming v twin cruiser and hearing it lope by on a curvy two lane road...it fills me with a joy that other bikes can't touch.
Plumbers, builders etc. Welcome to rip off Britain Freddie! In my area every tradesperson doubles their quote because they see the large houses in the neighbourhood (mine isn’t one of them 😂). I suspect most VFRs will be good for 100K miles as other people said. I loved belt drive on my F800ST, wish more manufacturers did them - the same direct feel of a chain without the regular maintenance and no mess. The Husky certainly looks distinctive, maybe a slightly different look for someone who likes the KTM 890 engine.
While I am old school an have an easier time with old mechanical stuff, its easier because thats what I grew up working on. The people trying to maintain 2024 stuff in 2050 will not be the same. They will have grown up fiddling with electronics. The things we see as complicated will be simple to them, an they will have no idea how to rebuild a carburetor. It will look over complicated to them. Because they didn't grow up with them like we did.
You're so wrong about "tinkerers". My grandfather got me into tinkering, first job he showed me was packing wheel bearings. He could get anything running, pre fuel injection and ECU. That's what he grew up with. I can also get running again. Because I grew up with electronic controls in vehicles. Today's kids are growing up with modern electronics. But if you understand electricity and computer programming you can sort it out. I had an electrical nightmare on my 1992 gtr that I had to study the wire diagram for a few days to sort out. Turned out to be corrosion on a circuit board that was allowing several systems to cross over power and short out several things at once. Once I figured that out and found where they could possibly short each other in the diagram pretty simple fix. Could my grandfather have figured that one out? Probably not. Two generations after me will think that was an obvious situation to fix. Tomorrows tinkerers are growing up with today's problems. So it'll go on. But I do remember back in the late 90's rebuilding my 68 Camaro wondering what kind of classic vehicles tomorrows kids will be restoring. But things seem to last longer now so I'm still wondering.
The vfr are bullet proof. The valve cost check for an old bike is not worth it. Simple maths. Ive had a few VFRs and just change oil and filters. Brake fluids. Readly to go
The only reason that manufacturers specify valve clearance checks is to avoid liability lawsuits. They know that bunch of bike owners will be abusive to their machines and probably won't maintain them as they are supposed to. If you buy new bike and don't ride like jackass, you will most likely enjoy your bike for long time by just doing regular maintenance.
I was trying to find an air-cooled Bonneville SE, almost the same as Freddie's. But hearing local owners and the mark-up maintenance prices of the local dealership and seeing the difficulty of finding parts for a model that was sold until less than 10 years ago, has made me question if it's wise to pay the premium for second-hand vs a INT 650, arguably with less build quality but parts are easy and cheap and it's a known bike to be diyer-and-thinkerer-friendly
I would highly recommend my Bonneville, but I do understand that seems a bit weird as it seems to be constantly broken! Frustratingly for me, the only thing wrong with it was a loose spark plug, and then a mechanic completely messed up my bike😳 Up until that point (42,000 miles), if was incredibly cheap to run. They’re very good, simple and unstressed bikes🙂
The most important thing Husky can come up with for their new bike’s expedition qualities is the paint job?? Oh please. . .and those bags on the back wouldn’t work for a 1 day trip to a restaurant. Freddie, please read through the lines!😊
I wanted to change my front sprocket from a 15 tooth to a 16 tooth on a nearly new bike. The sprocket retains nut is notorious for being really difficult to loosen. The dealer quoted $215 aud to change it plus the cost of the sprocket $75. I've ordered an impact wrench for $85 and I'll do it myself.
Hi Freddie . When looking at bike purchases , as well as the bike appealing to me it must be simple to self service. My eyes were watering hearing the cost to some folks having a dealer do a service. Modern classics I would go for an Enfield as they have tappets rather than bucket and shim to sdjust the valves . This means valve clearances take 30 mins and are done by turning a screw instead of buying new shims. For cruisers Harleys have hydraulic valves so never need servicing. Sure loads of other bikes look great , Triumphs appeal to me especially but with electronic gizmos bucket shims they are not suitable for easy home maintenance
Guzzis will save you a fortune. The engine was designed when Pteradactyls circled over breakers yards and will last beyond the next ice age. Once you've opened a Guzzi, you'll always yearn for one
Oh c’mon Freddy everyone knows that a Hardley Furguson is going to cost and loose you money. One of the worst motorcycles ever made. Quality control - nope just crap chrome laden over priced oil leaking garbage.
The modern bikes like KTM have a lot of problems with fuel injection and throttle issues. It seemxs the csuzuki v strom is a very good bike to work on. The triumph triples like the legend is a good bike, detuned. The sprag clutches werent great on the 900 daytona but if you keep the battery charged and the starter motor isnt strained they should last.
Ok, im not very experienced, but why on earth are dealers charging these sums?! I just had all belts and tensioners on my car, 2 new tires, and a service done from a high street garage done for sub 1k on my car. It's truly baffling. It is definitely a deterent for me to continue on 2 wheels when my job allows very little time for learning new wrenching and carrying it out.
In 20 years all bikes will need to be EVs. So the tinkerers will be those that convert old bikes to electric drive, and bypass all the complications of getting parts.
I like motorbikes, so fun to ride! Ride it till it breaks!!!! Leave it in the ditch. Get a new one. ha ha. Bloody ridiculous. Nothing like paying for a middle class life style for some one else. I ride to be free
For an easy to maintain and service bike you can’t beat a classic airhead BMW boxer engined bike. All the parts are available and they are cheap compared to classic Japanese bikes or modern bikes.
One of the biggest selling points for me on buying my 650 royal Enfield was the fact that I can do all of the maintenance myself and fix pretty much anything on the bike myself. Simplicity is extremely underrated. Could it be more powerful, yeah, and if I want it to be I can fit a big bore kit myself and almost 20 more HP out of it.
HD FXRS 1990 Valve checks: NONE, belt & pully: 80k miles, no oiling no maintenance only tightness check, 40 mpg & I do my own oil changes every 3k miles. Somewhat more expensive to get…dirt cheap ever after. Built for at least 150k miles. Just my 2cts.
With regards to the VFR topic, and ALMOST every other bike on the planet, what you said is spot on! Valve checks are the biggest scam ever perpetuated on motorcycling!! When you buy a new bike you have no choice because they extort you with voiding the warranty, but never fall for this on a used bike especially, as mentioned, when it cost more than what you paid for the bike. If the valves are out to any significant degree, the bike will run NOTICEABLY poorly. As other people have mentioned in the comments, I to have heard this from more than a few "Honest" mechanics. I have owned several bikes in my 40 years of riding and have never adjusted the valves on one of them, over hundreds of thousands of combined kilometers. All Japanese BTW.
Those vfr750 and 800 motors rarely go out of spec and are so well made the shims will often be within tolerance even after 50000 miles. Theyre not easy to work on and fitting a new exhaust wasnt easy. I fitted a black widow stainless steel downpipe but the studs often seize in the head and can shear off. The regulator rectifiers are very bad and i went through 3 in 20000 miles until i fitted an electrex mosfet one thats dearer but far better. The eccentric adjusters for the chain can seize also and riding in winter with salted roads doesnt help. I was riding 75 miles a day to and from work but if i chose another bike it would be a v strom 650 as its cheaper to run and so good. I have a suzuki DR650 and i love that now. Great for speedbumps flat out.😂
At 35,000 miles I did a compression test on my Zrx1200r , all 4 cylinders read 225psi. Which is highest end of the spec according to the workshop manual, perfect. I’ve owned the bike from new and never had the rocker/valve cover off. I won’t be taking off either.
