Been watching your vids for a long time, very informative. Your techniques have been used by me for over 1 year, and my knives have never been as sharp as they are now. Even a Wakizashi and Tanto that I have stropped are razor sharp. Keep the information coming. And the bushcraft information, I have used on numerous trips to different island and camped in several jungles. Thanks for the sharing of information. And I now use your techniques for butchering deer after hunts.
Aurora... My love... I am happy to see you with an Aurora Sir. To me have been like "the end of the road". It is an "hard to beat design" (really comfortable, "ALL PURPOSE" design) and the 3V version is like "a knife from Mars" (if compared to the others "bushcraft knives" on the market -mostly made in "O1"-). It probably will grow up on you day after day; i hope you will enjoy it (like i do). Best wishes from Italy
@@Onedayilbeok It's an evolution of the Canadian belt knife, which was used to skin reindeer and moose. It has the moon shape which is great for slicing away layers of fat, but still has a tip for opening incisions. And since bark river is known for essentially "perfecting" designs, many think that the CS is the best all-round northern hemisphere knife.
I can respect that. I hate swages, so I totally understand. Thank you for your time. I've been watching your stuff and collecting for a long time now. It was nice to have a conversation with you directly. I appreciate it very much.
I certainly agree with you on the clip point for batoning. It's good for piercing, but somewhat counterintuitive when used as a strike point with a wooden baton. I was just curious on your thoughts. I thought it was a peculiar design for a barkie, but that's me. All the best!
I agree with you completely. I honestly would not carry a knife that thick and that large to skin a whitetail deer. Which is what we hunt here mostly. My grandfather used to go from gut to cape with a pocket knife so I realise that level of blade is all that is necessary. Though sharpness is still paramount. I find drop points useful in bushcraft. Drilling starters for bow drill or friction fire and carving applications are best suited for it in my practice.
I think the best thing to use for feather making is a pocket knife. Swiss army, case the thinner blade really works the best. I use fixed blades too, but the thin blade of a pocket knife really slices.
My 3V Bravo1.5 has a thicker and angular handle than A2 Bravo1.5. I think the angular thick handle assures stable holding better when power cut is needed. Thanks.
Hello, I would like to say I have seen all your videos. That's right, all of them. I have been watching you and practicing your sharpening techniques. For that I would like to say thank you. I recently aquired a bravo -1 spear point ramp less cpm 3-v with green canvas micarta scales. It is almost zero ground but does have a small micro bevel. I will be grinding it off, as I did to my a-2 bravo -1. The handle geometry is very different from a2 to cpm3-v versions. The same as you found.
Oh no way. I will be reprofiling on the stones immediately. As is your suggestion. I would also like to note the handle differences. The a2 handle is rounder and more smooth in feel. The 3v scales are more angular and larger in cross section. Also the 3v scales extend up almost touching the plunge line. The A2 scales are a bit shorter, about 3/16" away from the plunge. I will test them thoroughly and see how the angular handle feels working. I'm very used to the a2 so we'll see.
If you sell Bark River Knives, how do I purchase one from you? I'm wondering if the extra length of the Bravo 1.25 may offset the Aurora when batoning logs. It seems like the wider blade of the Bravo 1.25 would split the wood more and require less effort than the Aurora.
I love BRKT, but I have to agree with you. The scandi-convex grind the bushcrafter comes with is "ridiculous". It is not very sharp. The Aurora was way sharper. I had to re-profile my bushcrafter to get it to an acceptable sharpness
i'm leaning towards a canadian special or lil'. have you had a chance to look at the lil' canadian? also, which of the two steels offered do you think is better for field duty?
You will like Bravo for Large Stag again....so no worries...it is a large stag knife. For it's SHEER Cool factor I know you still love it. It is great knife....someday a Classic.
Agree the pair of the dark handle Gunny Scandi with the 1.5 Bravo with iron desert wood handle would be my pick too. Does either knife, 1.5 Bravo or Gunny, come from BR with a Scandi grind that is acceptable or via special order ? Each of your knives has its own unique personality but for those unfamiliar with BK it's better to say each knife's name and avoid the phrase "this knife" for identification purposes. Thumbs up !
I prefer the 1.25lt too the aurora for bushcrafter because part of bushcraft too me is food prep and hunting and I don’t like the aurora for skinning or gutting I do like the bravo 1 probably the most though but would really like too try the bravo 1lt for multi use
as far as all around knife...hunting/camp/bushcraft I bet the gunny scandi would be one of the best. You should compare it against the bravo1 this next deer season to see how it does as a hunter. I think a lot of people would like to see a video of what you feel is a good do-all knife for that person that just wants to carry one blade for everything
Maybe someone already asked - I've been away from the computer a bit - but have you seen the clip point Scandi Gunny in 3v over at Knives Ship Free? Interesting mod. Cheers
Almost all of 3V Bark River knives come in fatter geometry and larger edge angle than the same models in A2 from BRKT. But I know 3V takes the same geometry as A2 and is still 3 times as durable and no chippy. So I always reprofile the 3V geometry and love it. If you don't like reprofiling, you need to tolerate the dullness of 3V or the less durability of A2. Thanks.
Hello , great video's , Been forging for 38 years , and recently started using W2 tool steel for my hunters and skinner's and am getting back some impressive results from the field . What impresses me with this steel is its ability to maintain and hold a very fine edge , especially when done on water stones , which I have come to appreciate and use exclusively . Are you familiar with this steel ? Hard to get in North America , but there are sources .
Yes sir it does have the fat geometry. But not quite as bad as your example. After reprofiling it should be fine for woodcraft. But right now it has a very slight micro bevel. This is the spear point version in 3v. With some steel removed from the top of the spine it seems a bit lighter than standard blade. I'll have to weigh it for you. Do you have a spear point version? I feel it's more bushcraft oriented in design. What do you think?
woulda been nice if you shared the names of the different models of knifes. im fairly certain they are all BR blades but have no idea which model is which
First is Bravo 1, second is Aurora, third is Canadian Special I think, fourth is Gunny Bravo I think, and the last is the Bravo 1.5 field. Those are my guesses at least :)
I don't think so. In order to split wood for a small cooking fire I like Bravo1 the best. In order to whittle out feathers to ignite I like Helle Temagami CA the best. I don't drill with a knife.
I like Scandi grind for wood jobs. I don't need a clip point for batoning at all. It looks like a very strange design to me. And strangely again they seem like having given up their ridiculously large angle to their Scandi-convex grind. I suspect they noticed their failure about their fat Scandi-convex and made a strange design to the right Scandi-convex. They cannot change the geometry to the same model because they need to take responsibility for it. They don't need to for the different model.
I like all you video very much. But if you can list those name of models , it would be better for all of us. Sometimes I cannot hear very clearly what you are talking. ^^
Say Heah, I like ti Scout and no Hunting, So fir a Tough Knife my Bravo 1 in 3V is one of my Fav. Knives, Infact I have (3( Bravo 1's, two in 3V and one in the A2, So yeah I could understand why a military group had it designed . ,, .
