Adding to my other comment we have 5 radiators and I can confirm they are all hot all over, no cold sections so that’s good. When first turned on after being off for a while I go here a few bits going through the pipe so that will be sludgy bits but as per my previous comment not much I can go at the moment due to financial reasons and risk of causing leak with power flush. I would say the system is reasonably quiet in operation too. I’m just preying for no more problems!
Good video. We had one with our new Vaillant Home Combi was firing up when toilet flushed. We had a slight water hammer and hot water flow sensor in boiler thought hot tap was opened. Couldn’t solve hammer so engineer adjusted the flow sensor setting. I guess the installer should have checked this and fitted a shock absorber.
Great video. Our boiler locked out at weekend Vailant Eco Pro Mk 1 I believe. No hot water, the radiators were luke warm but due to Fault Code I turned down the thermostat controls. I even turned the wall controller to “off” but for 24 hours until the engineer came the pump was constantly sending cold water around the radiators. I contemplated pressing reset or turning boiler off on the switch on front of boiler but I was wary of messing about in case I caused pressure build up or other damage(I’m not an engineer). The fault code suggested pump or pressure switch failure. Engineer replaced pressure switch but I was still wary of underlying fault as we had a number of new parts in the summer to extend the boilers life and hopefully reliability as it’s around 15 years old and we can’t afford a new one😢. Thankfully the engineer did this under our monthly gas cover and we had new pump, diverter valve , pressure switch, and some other bits, I think a new heat exchanger plate too, so I was very surprised six months later to have pressure switch failure. Sadly yesterday morning just 24 hours after repair water started pouring out the bottom of the boiler. I was worried it might be heat exchanger but turns out Vaillant used to use some part copper/rubber pipes and a nearly 1 inch split had occurred. I was annoyed at first but the split pipe was facing the rear of the boiler so would not have been obvious to the previous engineer. I was hoping the other rubber pipe would be replaced too but for now he has just replaced the leaking one with an upgraded all copper pipe. Fingers crossed and praying we have a good run now without issues. Yes it’s getting old but it’s serviced yearly and as I say we’ve had lots of new parts. A full pressure system flush would be good as there was evidence of gunge in the old parts but because in the summer the engineer thinks our boiler loses pressure a bit faster than what’s usually considered normal he suspects a very tiny leak (I top up pressure every 3-4 months so very tiny leak if any). Problem is a high pressure flush could cause that tiny leak become a big leak and our upstairs floorboards are very difficult to remove. Its frustrating and a bit of a catch 22. And when the time comes for a new boiler that gunge would still be in the system! Any suggestions?? Someone has suggested removing the radiators one by one and hosing them down outside. This method would not fully remove ALL gunge but would clean the radiators without risking high pressure flushes of the system. But I’m not good at DIY so would need someone to do this without ripping me off. Has anyone got suggestions for my situation?
@@xxxxxxxx3476 thanks for your kind comments. It is working now but I’ve asked him to come back tomorrow as he got a bit carried away with the pressure. He did say he was going to up the pressure a bit but it’s at 1.9 bar cold, 2.3/2.4 bar with heat on and that seems excessive. When set at 1.3 it never goes about 1.8 normally with heating on. I know how to add pressure with the two taps on the loop that’s easy but getting rid of pressure I don’t know, so he’s coming back tomorrow to do that and just have another quick check to see if all still looks ok from when he fitted that new pipe on Monday. He expected to lose some pressure this week so he set it higher but it’s lost nothing. Thanks again for your understanding. It’s like cars isn’t it? You can keep them regularly serviced but still can let you down. You are so right though, these days things are overly technical and not built to last.
Great video. I just had a vaillant eco fit pure. What a pain it's been since install. Damn thing comes on to great up the water, flashing the radiator symbol, when the central heating is off! My engineer thought it was the diverter near the water tank. Nope! I've checked my house thermostat and changed the batteries. No difference. Wish I'd never chosen vaillant more trouble than it's worth. Engineer coming back a third time to fix, but it's either faulty or not fit for purpose: vaillant ecofit 625 if you're interested. Which also doesn't appear to have a comfort function either despite what the manual shows. 🤬
I have a viesmam boiler when I turn the dial to turn the heating off the boiler Carrys on running but according to my smart meter it isn't using any gas if that makes sense
mine keeps turning on for 25 seconds, i can hear it doing something like pumping air or gas or something out. and then stops for 2-3min then repeats. everything switched off in the flat. wondering if that normal or an issue like water leak could cause such a behaviour? or is this normal and I'm just noticing it now and hadn't before? I'm not seeing the tap led lighting up when it starts pumping the air out.
My boiler ideal exclusive 2 hasn't been right since the council sent a person round for the gas service check. It comes on for around 2 minutes in the night 12, 1 am a 2 am and 3 am it does not heat up its just makes a noise. It is May 23rd and its warm so it shouldn't come on at all.
Hello Mark, thanks for the video! We got a Worcester boiler in a house we just moved in. The blue central light is always on (not flashing) even if the heating is not on. Is this normal?! In our previous house our Worcester boiler had the blue light on only when we had the heating/hot water ON. Cheers!
Biasi 30c advance has no heating but HW works fine. Bridged the frost therm 2 to 1 and now runs perfectly but doesn't cross 45 c. Looking like the pcb is shot on a capacitor. Anyone else faced the same issue, as I don't want to fork out £180 on a circuit board.
Mark thanks for the video, very useful. I have just had a Hive single channel thermostat fitted to my Glowworm ultracom boiler. Previously the heating was controlled by an analogue integrated timer. Everything with the hive looks to be working correctly but my radiators are heating up to the set point (55) even when the thermostat isn’t calling for heating. The only way I can turn them off is by manually choosing hot water only on the main boiler display. Do you think this is a boiler control wiring issue or a stuck valve?
I have a Main Combi Eco boiler that is located in an out house so I assume the frost protection is firing up the boiler and heating the radiators however reading elsewhere this frost protection should only heat up the water in the boiler and not in the central heating system/radiators. Is this correct?
