I always think salt is a great treatment for paracites and bacteria issues. As bacteria and paracites which live in freshwater, can't survive in saltwater and visa versa. Most fish can handle salt, even corys in my experience (despite popular belief). Just make sure the salt doesnt contain iodine so it's fish safe.
It would be really useful in these sort of videos, where specific medication products and brands are promoted, for presenters/RU-vidrs to discuss how safe they are for community aquariums that have more than just fish housed in them. Many community aquariums have fish, snails, shrimp, frogs, crabs, etc and many medications can be toxic, especially for invertebrates.
Hardest thing is that we aren't able to get medication for our fish in Canada. None of our fish shops are allowed to sell it and virtually no vets are comfortable diagnosing or treating fish. I would love to see a video on alternative options. Thanks!
Great as always! Thanks for sharing all your expertise in such a warm way - you never feel you’re a twit for not knowing something that everyone else does. An idea for a future video - what about how to pack up your fish and break down a tank if you’re moving home? ❤
You're a legend dude. Been so cool watching your channel grow and how you've been enjoying it. Thanks for all the great videos and insight. Cheers from South Africa 🇿🇦
I recently got into checking out fish keeping videos (about a year ago) cause they calm me down. My dad was a marine biologist, and he took me with him in his work, but I was a kid ( I lost him early). This video made me make the connection on why fish keeping calms me Thanks :)
Hi Matt, great video as always. Probably worth mentioning that some treatments can affect shrimp and snails. Not sure if any of the ones you showed do, but certainly some I have looked into before have not been suitable. My biggest challenges when trying to treat any problems, are having mixed inhabitants (fish, shrimp, snails), heavily planted, and the size of my tank (550L). Taking out individual fish for a quarantine tank is a nightmare as with all the plants they are a challenge to catch! So generally having to treat the whole tank. Great videos, keep up the excellent content.
That's a very good point I believe all the treatments I showed are safe. But you're right there are a few treatments that aren't shrimp and snail friendly.
As someone who is super paranoid about something happening and not being prepared ahead of time this was very reassuring. Yet another chill video with my favorite fish dad
sadly here fish treatments are usually quite pricey. Having any number of fish though (or more expensive fish) I can definitely understand the logic behind keeping some key ones on hand. Usually when I've lost fish its either the odd weak fish, or its been tank conditions arent optimal and righting those have prevented further losses, thankfully I haven't had to deal with these types of illnesses yet. I also run a quarantine tank for new fish to be safe
“hole in the head” was the worst disease that one of my fishes developed (It was on a Pineapple shark). I never did get to cure the fish itself but it outgrew my tank and I gave the fish away. I suspect a lot of ailments are triggered by poor water quality.
Hole in the head is a pain, I once inherited a group of earth eaters who had it bad and I treated and treated and it would not go away. One day I changed their food as I couldn't get what the person before had been feeding them and within 2 weeks they started to heal and it completely went away just with a diet change.
@@FishShopMatt peculiar how a fish diet can cause such a dreadful ailment. At the time, it was thought the condition was brought upon by the use of live food which may have held parasites.
Pop eye is the worst one I’ve come across. One of my corydoras developed it. I treated the whole tank. Luckily it didn’t spread but he did lose an eye. Still living. I call him patch.
This was very informative. I’m very new to having an aquarium and unfortunately all our fish were sick when we first got them. One survived the initial illness but then got a fungal infection. I set up a quarantine tank for the fish when they got ill but now through trial and error, googling and watching videos like yours I’m feeling much more confident next time. All our shrimp survived and have just had babies so I hope our bad luck has passed
When this video came out I went, I'm so lucky I haven't had to deal with my fish getting sick before. Looked in the tank this morning and two of my guppies have fungal infections. Shouldn't have said anything haha. Perfect timing on the video
Good presentation... emphasis has to go on that if you maintain the aquarium properly, don't overstock or mix the wrong fish, and feed the fish an appropriate/varied diet, there is little likelihood of disease affecting the fish... they're far more likely to simply die of old age.
@@FishShopMatt Matt, I truly appreciate the effort. Chilis are next to impossible to get here in the states as well. BUT…I really enjoy commenting on almost every video with my Chili nonsense. Hope you aren’t too annoyed with me.
Great video, explained very well for all to understand. As a store manager of a maidenhead I can definitely tell you had the same job. This is almost a daily basis conversation.
Awesome video thank you great Idea stocking up on treatments! I'm also going to get that NT Labs illness card printed out and keep in the cabinet for quick reference 🙏
Just worth adding that some fish (such as loaches, synodontis catfish etc) are highly sensitive to most medications and must be dosed at a much lower level than the instructions on the bottle say (typically you would dose at 50% of the recommended level). This can lead to problems for those fish and you may need to repeat a course of treatment more than once. Also, if the treatment you are using states multiple doses over several days, then you should always complete the course even if the problem appears to be resolved. Great video as always Matt, really helpful guide, especially for new fishkeepers.
Thank you, yep always read the instructions most treatments have got better now and you don't have to worry so much about the sensitive fish being bothered by it but it's always worth checking.
I was hoping you would shed insight on the misdiagnosis of epistylis (fingers crossed I finally spelled it right) A lot of beginners are quick to see a fish in a post tell people to crank the heat and call it ich. In many cases it's not, and the treatments are opposite. Heat will make epi live longer and spread more and can be lethal, where as ich is less scary; basing this on one outbreak in my years and it was a guppy mama 5G tank with 3 girls to birth in. All the babies were covered but it cleared with 2 full rounds of treatment. *people are also worried about water changes before/after meds if there are babies along with being fearful to add medicine to a tank with babies. .... maybe down the line can you do a video for the ease of others that newborns can handle medical treatments? I think Cory from co op aquarium says it best, if fish don't survive a treatment, they were already too far with the illness. *I'm like you, I can spot a fish from across the room that isn't looking right. I've left the dinner table to go look at a fish in question 😂 * i also agree having the medicine is a lot easier than having nothing. For me this includes having a separate observation/hospital/quarantine tank. ... One more insight for potential video idea, explaining why it can be harmful for people to medicine dump. I also see posts stating "I've tried X,Y,Z, after A,B,C did nothing". When looking into the time they posted the popular "HELP! what's wrong with my fish" and it's only a few days apart. That can cause more stress aiding to the illnesses ability to attack the weak. ❤I apologize for the mini novel here. Thanks if you read this.
You don't ever need to apologize for taking the time to write such an awesome comment! Yeah Epistylis can be a pain and for most people is very tricky to distinguish between the two. I find it to be more irregular in shape and a bit more blurry or furry I suppose. I definitely like the video idea and will write it in my book of videos to do. It's becoming a very long list now hahaha.
Great video. It's always nerve-wracking when something is wrong with your fish. Had a new rainbow come in with pop eye. I got him isolated and treated and he's back with his friends. I felt pretty good about not panicking, and videos like this are excellent resources.
That was really interesting. I haven't run into any fish illnesses or parasites yet, but I suppose I should get some meds to have on hand. I am becoming more obsessed with keeping fish, and I want more tanks. It's so addictive. lol
Thank you, yeah you don't need tons of them but the more common treatments are worth having. Especially as I say on the video what's £5 when you have £100 worth of fish in your tank.
The one thing to note with stockpiling treatments is that the vast majority do have a finite shelf life, so always check the expiry date on what you buy...
Hi Matt, Thank you for such informative videos. This video is just what I need at the moment. I bought 6 Neon Tetras and three have developed fungus. One has died, one has just a stump for a tail and one has a large cotton bud by its mouth. The dead one had two cotton buds at its mouth. I have been treating them with API Melafix and Pimafix without much improvement (no improvement). I have gone online to Maidenhead and cannot see NT Labs products you have sugested. Are these just carried in your store? The Neon with a stump for a tail is struglling, is it suffering? Please keep the videos going as they are great for helping us with this interesting hobby.
Love the video! Thank you for all the helpful condensed information. I have two questions for you. One, do you have exceptions to these treatments if you have shrimp in your tank? Two, how do you gently tell your acupuncturist there is an issue with some of the fish in the waiting room tank? Best wishes for a Happy Christmas!
Hi Matt Is there a general universal medicine that can be used in quarantine tank to treat fish, as a precautionary measure to prevent a wide range of diseases, bacterium and parasites , before introducing the fish into your expensive community tank?
It's a good medicine but always been quite a strong one and I've had a lot of fish stress out when using it. I almost find it too strong in most cases.
Great video Matt. Do you feel that if you hold the results card too close to the test it alters the colour of the test? I struggle to notice the difference between some of the colours. They are so similar.
Thank you! Yes it can do I also find that depending on the lighting in the room it can make a difference. I normally try and do it in the same room every time and if you're struggling test some tap water alongside your rank water that way you will be able to see results and compare colours.
Thank you again Matt!! You really inspired me to come back into the hobby and you continue making these straightforward videos that help me along the way. You’re the man!
Hi Matt, thanks so much for this. Very helpful, though my fish have never had any of these specific illnesses/parasites (I think), but we have been dealing with flagellate parasites, both internal and external ones unfortunately. One telltale sign of internal flagellates in my experience is white or translucent stringy poo, so that would be something to be concerned about in your fish. What do you think of the more "natural" treatments like garlic? I oftentimes struggle with using the commercial treatments as I have amanos and nerites in my fish tank as well and lots of the traditional/commercial treatments contain active ingredients that are damaging or deadly to inverts. Catching the amanos can be so difficult, plus sometimes small amounts of the treatment remain in the tank for months and are still damaging to inverts, so I prefer to try these more "natural" treatments first.
Thank you! Yeah it's tricky with the harder hitting treatments and inverts, personally nothing can replace an actual medication. Things like garlic can help boost but in my experience once a problem is there medication is the only way forward.
Some meds are harmful to invertebrates especially if you have shrimp in a tank. Aquarium salts is also a good treatment method for many types of infections. But can have an adverse effect on plants as well as invertebrates. And a med with copper in it kills snails and others invertebrates. I think meds is a very important part of aquarium knowledge to understand. Knowing the source for new fish and what med and quarantine method are used before you by fish. Also UV sterilizers are effective on some illness that fish get. I tank you for addressing meds and common illnesses but there is so much more to learn as you just touch the surface. I that is why I like to quarantine fish first. This allow you first to get to know some of their habits and tendency, feeding and check for illnesses then treat them if nessary in this smaller environment than your display tank. Takes less meds and allow more close observations of progress. A bare bottom tank and a few pieces of pvc pipe various sizes to allow the fish some privacy whole going through this transitioning process. However if I get fish via online I do a complete cycle of meds in the USA we use fritz products of salts, ick med, paracleanse and maracyn. Which I get at Aquarium coop as a great source. Also they have a video catalog to help you diagnose and treat various bacterial parasites, and other diseases and infections. An ounce of prevent by having meds on hand quarantineing and pre medicating fish when necessary and practiced faithfully is so very important; but people get impatient as they want to see their purchase immediately in their aquarium. But adding a few dollars in fish that ends up infectinh hundreds of dollars of fish and they perishable plus the breakdown of the aquarium to clean and res sterile it can lead to a lot of frustration and expense. We have all done it and many have gotten away with it but that one time you learn the hard way. I like a 30 to 45 quarantine process and if there is a problem a 30 day wait after it clears up to be sure you got it all as some times the babies of parasites and bacteria have to be treated multiple time to be sure you have killed it all off. Then a thirty day wait to makes sure it is gone. I know it is a pain but to protect your invest of not only money but your time is like the old saying the ounce of prevention is far more less than a pound of cure. Like you said water quarantine is so important to reduce illnesses but also allows for a quicker recovery. Nutrition is a vary important part of you treatment programs quality foods and variety of foods live frozen and a good quality flake food to increase the fishes over all immune system protection. I know it seems like a lot but to maintain the quality of like for your fish is so important. Also after you quarantine fish especially if they are sick fish, the resterilizing you quarantine system for the next is very important and it also means the filter. If use a sponge filter means washing it thoroughly I use a little bleach the rinse the sponge well then let it complete dry out I like put them into sunlight for a day or two then start reseeded the good bacteria back on the sponge in case you need it and have a good liquid bacteria to reseed the quarantine tank if you have to quarantine new fish or sick fish you add water the seeded filter media so addition liquid bacteria a heater and you good to go anytime something comes up Iike to get my quarantine tank back up as soon as possible if you have to put a small goldfish or some inexpensive fish you can move in the system to keep the nitrogen cycle running, as you never know if you go some where and you see a fish you want and got to have you already have a place to put it when you get home or if something go wrong you got a place for fish to go if sick or injured as well as a backup if you tank gets a leaks or cracks. At least you can save some of your fish. I like a 20 gal or 75 liter tank as it can accommodate a larger fish as well as a group of smaller fish. But a ten gallon or 37 liter tank at the bare minimum. Consisting of a tank, filter system (my favorite a sponge) , a pump and an airstone , a heater, a dedicated fish net sterilized after each and every use, some sterilized pvc pieces of pipe or joints and optionally a plant or two to float in the tank. You can put a light on it but if no plants not a requirement. However a light does aow you the ability to see you fushes body more closely. But you dont have to have it on all the time nor spend a fortune for one. ( note check around for used ones online and thrift stores.) I used and old gooseneck incandescent bulb lamp for years a cheap clamp led bulb lamp would work too. Remember this is a quarantine system I have used plastic see through plastic bins for better visibility to the aquatic animals and fish. But a solid will work but it doesn't always you to visually see the animal without handling them which stress them out more or can create even greater damage by introducing something into the quarantine system be it chemical biological or viral. That why I so say sterilized you net and have a net for each aquarium and that aquarium only. Nets are cheap don't skip this part as reusing a net from one tank into another without sterilizing properly is the fastest way to infect other tanks as well. Once the system is up running it is ready to go. Hope this helps someone, but I don't think it discussed as much as it should be especially by the fish store selling fish. I know for some they don't care but Matt you understand return business and if a person is told up front the importance of being prepared they will get in started in the fish keeping but I also understand it is like you are trying to get them purchase more products than necessary. But the school of hard knocks is a great tea her but the lose of life of the fish and the expenses that one can insure will ar some point be felt. And that is coming from a place of experience via the school of hard knocks becauae on impatient and not understanding. We do it for our cats and dogs without hesitation but fish and aquatic life not so much until we understand that that box of life is alive and seen as water pets, and it requires us to take on responsibility with more discipline and understanding. As cats and dogs we take to a vet but for fish that husbandry is our alone we are the provider, caretaker, the doctor that those animals will ever see and they deserve the best we can do to see they have the best care. Thanks for sharing this Matt but I think there is so much more that can be discuss maybe a mini series of videos. I wish you and MD would talk about this more often to remind old keepers and to educate new keepers. It is a topic thank don't get talked about or like to like talk about or even to take on ,as they lack the knowledge and it can be boring but that is the problem many ard not or avoiding it all together. And many don't want to make the investment in the first place. Sorry for going on about this for so long but I am passionate about this because I have dealt with the negative ramifications for myself. And if one person gets this message and applies it, it was worth my time to type it out. Sometimes one person at a time getting this information out is the only way an aquatic pet/fish can be heard and dealt with and protected properly in the future.
Thank you for taking the time to write this! It's a hard video to make on treatments and diseases as you need to keep it interesting so people watch but also informative. As you say I've only scratched the surface so there will be definitely more to come.
Thank you! Another great video that I will be referring back to no doubt! ...So in your opinion is it overkill that with my new tank I was considering using the API starter juice with lab grown plants and buying all my fish from one breeder or is it something to consider while I have the option? And can you add a link so we can tip you? Ha ha you know us Americans like to show our gratitude and sure, a T shirt is cool but I'd rather just buy you boys and your wives a beer!
Thank you so much! It certainly wouldn't hurt to do that but it's fairly rare to suffer problems that bad that they can't be quickly rectified. If you do all that you shouldn't have issues but you may find it hard to get everything you want. Hahaha you don't have to tip, but if you want to there is a members section to my channel and also something called super thanks where people have sent me tips before.
I keep having fish swim erratically, then die shortly after. All of my water parameters are in normal range, and I do water changes regularly. I just don't know what to do to help them. The erratic swimming is the only symptom.
Hi matt. Loving the channel keep it up mate. I do have a problem in my aqurium but not with fish more of an algae issue. Fuzz algae to be precise. Been like it a weeks now and everything I'm trying is not working. Please fish guru how can get rid of this and what causes it please 🙏
Well it's a bit tricky depending on where it growing could lead you to the cause. If it's growing on plants those plants could be damaged or deficient in something, if it's growing on certain bits of hardscape they could be harboring fish waste or leaching organics into the aquarium. Personally if it's the green furry type then a good few water changes and getting that aquarium stability back will normally fix it. You can use algaecides but if you don't work out the underlying issue it will probably just come back.
@FishShopMatt its seems to the root of my carpeting plants. Its more white then green though. Nothing on the stem plants at the back just on my Dwarf Sagittaria at the base of the plant. Could it be to much nutrients in the substrate. Only seems to have come on since i put seachem tabs in the substrate
That's very annoying, the anti fluke and wormer may get them with regular dosing. If that doesn't work look for a treatment with levamisole in the ingredients
Informative and awesome as always Matt! I have issues with guppies fins occasionally. I really don’t see any concerning aggression going on. But every so often I’ll loose like 2 or 3 at once and then nothing for months. The tail fin disappears and then dead. I have a lot, so it’s hard to keep an eye on. I honestly never get to see it start. All of a sudden I will notice that the tailfin is just gone. I keep shrimp in the tank as well. So that really complicates my ability to treat. Obviously a hospital tank is ideal. I’m going to get one set up soon. Just to have on hand it’s just very random and doesn’t affect most of the guppies.
So it could be an underlying bacterial infection that only shows it's face when one of them is under the weather or getting old. Then when it gets a chance it takes out two or three weaker fish and then goes dormant for a while. NT Labs anti internal bacteria treatment is shrimp safe so you could do a course of that and see what happens
@@FrogmanHerzfeld if not look for a treatment with the ingredient acriflavine or chloramine t as these are normally safe but they have to be in the lower concentrations.
Depending on the issue, with tiny fish like Endlers. Would you recommend removing the fish and treating in a separate hospital tank or treating the entire tank? Less stressful for the fish, definitely. I'm having an issue now. Thank you!
Yeah possibly it all depends on where they've been and what they have come in to contact with. I've seen it happen in many different ways over the years.
Thank you for this. It confirms my male m8nnows fins are due to fighting. They display to each other a lot and try to chase the females but the girls are like whatever 😂
Very informative as always! I've got three danios, one of which has a bent back and 2 have unevenly /angular swollen stomachs. Its not a feeding issue as they are like it round the clock. Could it be a parasite?
It could be a number of things, I doubt it's a parasite as if they've lived with it for a while it would have probably finished them off by now. It may just be deformities danios do get bred quite a lot. It wouldn't hurt to try a treatment to see if it helps them, the bent back won't go away but the funny bellies might.
@@FishShopMatt thank you. It seems to have developed over a period of time, they looked perfectly normal for a while, then ones back became deformed and then the others bellies have grown into very odd shapes
Silly question, will the Rx's kill your live plants or snails? In every condition do you treat the whole tank or do you put the fish in a hospital tank? TIA
It shouldn't affect your plants that much if at all. Yeah I would always treat the whole tank as you don't know if any of the other fish are carrying it but not showing signs.
Hi Matt, i had a few cichlids that got dropsy and they died, one of my lfs suggested me to improve the circulation of the water buying a pump, did he suggest me right? I have a Juwel Primo 110 and he told me that a lot of people who have Juwel have bought a circulation pump too. I also have to ask another question: i have two tanks, one is a 110 liters and the other is 55 liters, in the 110 i have a female of Nannacara anomala who is particularly territorial, recently i bought a new male (to replace the already dead "old" one and another female of this fish to add to the 110 but she scared them a lot, they were hidden in the space between the filter and the heater, I saved them adding to the 55 growing them up but it won't be long term for sure, how can i disorient the territorial female so she lose her territory and i can add the little ones?
So dropsy can be caused by many things, it certainly won't hurt to have extra flow especially as the juwel filters aren't the strongest. As for your aggressive female really it's either a rescape when you out the new ones in or remove her for a few hours, I would out her in a bucket or tub with a sponge filter and a small heater. Then try reintroducing her later on, some fish can just be territorial dirt bags though.
@@andreacasoli3371 yeah very popular the only thing that lets them down slightly is the filter not being as powerful as some other brands. Otherwise they're a brilliant brand.
I have rosy barbs ,danios and penguin fish,all seem fine apart from one barb that has started gulping air from the surface a being a lot more active as in constantly swimming rather than just chilling with the rest,after doing this for a while it will go and lie on the bottom, always the same place, people have suggested low oxygen levels but I have a lot of surface agitation and an air stone,ive tested the water which suggested water change so I did a 50% water change,tried Internet swim bladder plus tetra water balance,Internet disease control too I've no idea what to do!
What medicine can be used for bettas. I read they are more sensitive to antibiotics. Not sure how to treat her white growths on gills. I don’t know how to upload a picture or I’d show you.
Hmmm I can't say I've heard of that before, it may just be biofilm growing on their shells for some reason. It's definitely not a common thing though, if you ever get a photo tag it onto one of my posts on Facebook so I can see.
Once you have one of those in the tank, does the medicine also kill a swath of the beneficial bacteria as well? And if so, could that mess up your cycle? Do you need to do some bacterial input after treatment?
It can knock your bacteria back slightly but most of the time I find my tanks bounce back quickly. It certainly wouldn't hurt to dose filter starter to get it back to 100%.
I know nobody is probably going to see this but how do you treat with live plants? I was advised that all of these chemicals would kill or melt my plants.
It depends on how long the power cut is. Most of the time I would just wrap the aquarium up in a blanket if it was cold and going to be off for a long time. Most of the time it's not the power cut but the days after that cause the issue. Your filter bacteria may have completely died off and then you start feeding normally when the power is back on. This can cause a massive spike in pollutants so really don't worry too much about the powercut if it's only a few hours. But the days after make sure you use some filter starter and do a few little water changes, also slow down on feeding to let the filter catch back up.
@@FishShopMatt Thank you for your quick and concise reply. Please don't think that my intent was to trick you but I was told at my local branch of Maidenhead that it is not company policy to supply a Betta with free swimming fish and I was told in no uncertain terms that it was not possible to house them together, that the Betta would be constantly stressed and therefore have it's lifespan shortened considerably.
Hi Matt! this is unrelated to the video, but do you have experience with Hyphessobrycon cyanotaenia? I am considering getting some for myself but I dont have places where I can view them in real life. Are they as beautfiul in real life as the pictures on the internet?
If you get the true cyanotaenia they are lovely! I have seen a few species imported under that name by accident but they were still gorgeous fish. They will take a bit of time to colour up but once they get there, they're a great fish!
Hi Matt! Ive had ich occur in my tank before (maybe 4-6 months ago?) but it seemed to sort itself out in around 2 days and hasnt returned since. I live in Singapore so im guessing the hotter climate here helps? But after watching and hearing you explain what ich is, do you think i should still throw in anti-ich treatment? Assuming that the ich is dormant and not dead would it be a good idea?
Help please! Hello, in my 60 gallon tank I have a Tiger Oscar and fry flowerhorn that I got from Petco. For the last few days, the Oscar appears sick. Moving slowly, losing color and appears pale/white. I added Super Ick Cure by API and Melafix. Any ideas?
Ive got a 5 year old Blackmore and i think he is blind 😅 he still swims eats and is normal but both his eyes are clouded over like what happens with old dogs... is there anything i should do or treatments for him or has he genuinely just gone blind?
Hello matt y from Belgium. Y have a betta is 4 jear old . Swims on the bottom on its sade. Sometimes hi goos op for are. He tried to get something to eat. It have a thick body. What kan y do..
It could be a few different things, have a look at images of dropsy and see if he maybe suffering with that. If not then try an anti internal bacterial treatment and see if he responds to it. At 4 years old he may just be hitting old age.
My Bloodfin tetra has lost it's caudal fins right down to it's body and one small mark on it's body? if I medicate it do I need to be concerned about O.D.ing the healthy fish?
I don't remember you touching on isolation/quarantine. Also...I never see content (from anyone) on a fish getting stuck inside the hardscape, nor how to prep your tanks to move across country.
Hepistilys is another disease that is quite similar to ich but should not be confused because the treatments aren't the same. Hep does produce white spots all over the fish's body including the eyes (ich doesn't). The spots from ich look like they're almost part of the skin or "painted dots" on the fish while the spots from hep are protuberant. From the top of my memory both can be treated with malachite green but don't take my word for it... More specific treatments may just get your fish in a worst condition than it already was. And PLEASE don't just dump malachite green or any other medication right in the tank 🤦 Use a hospital bin to treat only the sick and not kill everything else.
Hey guys, i started my first aquarium 2 months ago and i went with 15 tiger barbs and 6 cherry barbs in total also got 6 amano shrimps. The tank is big enough loads of platns rocks you know the stuff. Now 5 weeks ago 1 of the tiger barbs died in like 2 days, stopped swimming not eating and alone in a corner, i checked all the water stuff and everything was fine. 2 weeks ago another dies in the same way so i call the shop where i go, they taught ut was a parasite or something so i had to get 2 fish over to the shop so they can check them. That happend 1 week ago again they found nothing and water quality is perfect. So we all tought the fish were just weak... now yesterday 1 of my cherry barbs got the same symptoms not eating not swimming and in a corner, today he passed away... Anyone thoughts on whats happening? Btw the ither fish look good and eat and loads of energy.
So it could be a few things but as it's generally one at a time I think it could be some parasite moving from fish to fish. The issue will be if it's a strong parasite most of the medicines that will get rid of it will probably get rid of your shrimp too. If it was me and you're still suffering with random losses I would get the amanos out and treat with an anti fluke and wormer treatment and see if that sorts it.
@@HELVA-dx7tmbuy a second hand tank with heater and filter to use as a quarantine tank. Squeeze your existing sponges into the new tank to transfer beneficial bacteria (won't look good, but sets up the ecosystem for the health of your shrimp). If desperate, use a bucket with sponge filter and heater until you get a quarantine tank.
@@lpoolck17 hey a quick update, today i called the guys from the shop again to get some cure for it, they think the same thing as Matt, but they have a new kind of cure that would be safe for the shrimps and snails so i dont have to get them out. It should be added in the tank for 4 to 7 days and after that remove lile 80% of the water and they should be fine. Isnt 80% 2 much tho? Thanks in advance
