One last thing I'd like to add to this great overview, if I may, is the problem of the one way bearing. This is the component on the engine that transfers the force you apply via pulling the pullstart directly onto the starter shaft. I don't know if you've actually ever run into this issue before Josh, but with my car, which is basically the same, I've endured some serious headaches over the last five years with this part. It can be recognized by the fact that when pulling on the pullstart, there's either no distinct sound or very little of the piston turning over inside the crankcase and cylinder head ('slipping'). You'll also find the pullstart too easy to pull and there'll be almost no resistance. If this occurs, it means your one way bearing has worn out. You can't repair them so once broken you'll have to replace it with a new one. The only thing you can do to make them last longer is use special one way bearing oil every half gallon of fuel or so, to keep it lubricated as much as possible.
I hope nitro doesn't die out it's by far better than electric in my opinion I think people just get scared away from it cause it's a little more work than electric but I think it's just a better experience over all
Hey man, nice content on the channel - really helpful and well explained. I've got a losi 8ight T truggy with a dynamite 2.8 engine. The fuel is new. I checked that the glow from the plug is strong. The pull start got a bit stiffer so I thought it must have flooded. Off with the plug, upside down and gave it 10-15 pulls on the pull start to unflood it. when righted, no splashes come out the plug whole, and the cloth I held over the whole was dry as a bone with 10 quick pulls (easy now, only to 6 inches). New filter too. Reprimed it. I've got 1mm gap on the idle. High and Low speed throttle screws back to factory. The only thing I'm worried about is that when the plug is on, there is a knocking sound with the pull - which makes me think perhaps the crankshaft is bent / damaged from flooded pulling. Would this stop it from starting? Might have to strip and rebuild the engine. Can you think of any reason it might not start? I live in Dubai, where its 24 degrees right now.
Great videos ! I have the same engine VX18. Please could you share a basic carb setup for this? HSN (turns) - LSN (turns) - iddle (mm) I would like to have a start basic carb setup in order to adjust later running the car. Thanks. Cheers
Hi there, It doesn't work like that I'm afraid as carb settings are different for every engine. It varies depending on your fuel type, glow plug, outdoor temperatures / humidity, etc etc. Need to tune it according to how it's behaving & performing
Hi. Never had a nitro engine that would not start until now. When it was new and fresh out of the box the GXR28-SG was a straight forward process to set the beginning settings. Low speed screw .5mm in from being flush with housing. i.e. rather than flush, screwed in .5mm 3 turns open on high speed needle. Idle screw set for a narrow gap. I have tried different gaps. I have plenty of glow plugs and my igniters are all really effective. It started once when it was new. I sent it to Kyosho they said it was fine. But they returned it with an extra brand new carb. I gave up. Put in some after run oil and left it. I have plenty of others. WHY WON"T THIS CAR START? It is not gummed up. Internally it looks new/un-used. I heard about an issue with improperly sized rubber O rings on one of the setting needles. Work this out with me if you think you can. It is a nice 1/8th Vette An Inferno GT2 I must have swapped the glow plugs 5 times. Fuel flows. I warmed up the engine with a heat gun. Nothing I try works.. Yet Kyosho did tell me it ran fine. Not sure why they gave me a new carb.
I have a traxxas t maxx with a hobao hyper .21 motor in it and I have just had it running and then after the tank ran out it wouldn’t start again I checked the plug and it had burnt out so I brought a new plug but when I was trying to get it running my neighbour changed the tune and now it won’t fire with the new plug
hopefully you can help me i bought a 1/10 rc car a long time ago and forgot what make it is i have no manula either how would i found out how to reset the fule inlet ?
I've grown to like your videos for a few reasons. You make them memorable by repeating yourself as much as possible when stressing your point. You're drilling information into our heads at a rapid fire rate subconsciously. As yall would say, brilliant.
Im having a compression issue. My vx18 is stupid hard to pull . I know its not flooded , I know its getting fuel, already reset the tuning screw. At tbis point i dont know what to do to it. Ive had traxxas all my life until now and never had an issue starting any of them, now ive been trying to start this pos for 4 days , and on top of that the engine is brand new. So Help possibly?
I just received a older Nitro car I have no clue what kind of even is. How can I tell? It doesn't have a body for it that would usually have some kind of name. oh and I also cannot get it to start but I'm going to use tips from this video tomorrow to try to figure it out
Hi I restored a old Kyosho stinger Mk2 and it uses a O.S. Max Cz1 .12 and has a single needle valve and carb gap screw. There’s no info at all online. Any clue what setting it should be at from closed?
I know this is old but hoping to get some info. I have one of these and the front right shaft is missing and the front diff seems to be botched. Where do you get parts for it? It runs after a ton of carb tuning and runs good but I wanna get that front working for all-wheel drive. Also, what is the glow plug start you are using? I have a bunch of those tank ones and they work but only for about 3-4 min each.
@@TheRCBiker gotcha on the igniter. No manuals. Bought three trucks as a set one elect, two nitro. One is an 1/8 the other one is the 1/10. The 10 runs good the 8 need front end work for shock mount.
My hsp wont start even i did all the methods, wth is goin on. Im newbies here. I do change the plug but nothing works. Dammitt any help will be appreciated thank for nice vids
Hey I have a redcat shockwave and it refuses to turn on I hit the drill start I can feel it turn but not ignition and both the glow plug and the glow igniter are good fully charged and burns bright but still refuses to turn on eny tips or help plzzz
Great update to your other earlier video which itself was very good,a reference point I used many times as a rookie!,the fuel one caught me out when I first got my Savage,little did I know how very quickly nitro fuel goes off in hot humid summer weather,also worth mentioning Josh,I'm sure you're aware,but for other folk,this fuel is extremely toxic and is the kind of poison that accumulates in the bodies vital organs and takes a very long time to dissapate,beware when blowing in fuel lines and handling it.👍✌👌
hi i have a tamiya fs12-s nitro motor, when i bench start it runs and then stops. when the motor are seated in the car then it does nothing. tell me what am i doing wrong? BTW love your vids man they are very informative. lorenzo
Hey man ur page is awesome, I do have a question though even though I have done all of that I still can't get my traxxas tmaxx to start again and how often does your motor mounts strip because the motor keeps moving and stripping out my gearing sprocket what do I do man I got it from someone else and I'm so stumped and would love to drive it when it snows where I live
I have the same engine but nessed my tuning up at the beginning and don’t remember the settings. I know the altitude we live at are different but could you give me your settings so i could get it to start. This would be greatly appreciated
I have a 1:10 that haven't been playing for 20 years. I checked everything and they all looked good. However, I can never started the car. The engine quickly dies off after starting. A lot of time it does not start. I tried several high speed and low speed and idle gap needle settings but it does not work (I have lost the instruction long ago). The latest setting is after I blow the fuel into the carburetor the fuel withdraws back into the tank. I have almost fully opened the high speed needle and I am sure that there is enough space for the low speed needle to get the fuel in. I just cannot figure out why the fuel moves back into the tank and why the best I could do was a very short (1s) engine running noise and then it dies off (how much fuel do you have to get into the carburetor?) The glow plug is ok and the engine was cleaned. I don't have the manufacturer's manual so I don't know the default setting. Trying to get this working to spark my 6 year old son's enthusiasm about mechanics and engineering. It would be great if you can help me on this one. The car is a Hong nor I purchased in 2001 (I've checked its website and could not find the manual of such old product, and they do not accept email inquiry). Thank you.
It is being starved of fuel, with it being sat for that long I would suggest removing the carb and cleaning it out thoroughly. It sounds like it could be blocked!
Hi , I'm new to the Nitro engine cars and have recently bought GS Racing Shadow SB1. The problem that I am facing is that if I don't lean out the LSN then the engine doest start but when I check the LSN setting by pinching method it stops in 2 to 3 seconds max. Which according to the videos on Pinching means my LSN is very lean. I stay in India where the temperature is approx 25 to 30 degree Celsius. The engine is GS Racing .15 . Also when we say 1 turn for HSN/LSN does it mean 180 degree or 360 degree ? Thank you
Must be low on compression then! Because engines need Fuel, Air, Heat & Compression - so if you've checked the other three it only leaves poor compression as being the cause
Hi bud, just bought a new fox toro , it just won’t start have tried everything , this is my first nitro truck ... I did accidentally fiddle with the factory settings of the throttle and HSA , ISA but have tried to put them back to normal settings .. when I pull the cord some times it’s smooth otherwise there is a cranky noise which comes from the engine ... please help
Dear JT12, i have a dbx 1/10. when i got the nitro car, the servo's worked, now as well, but when I try to pull start the motor, it won't start. I think i flooded the engine but i think thats now good. I checked my glowplug and it glows red, so thats not it. And fuel comes in. Pls can you help me??
Hi I have a hpi evo rush and after following all steps and making sure everything is perfect it still won’t start my other nitro cars start and run but this one just won’t any tips would be much appreciated
Hi, no I never got round to using that and ended up selling it. You need a different Nitro for the helicopters, although it should start with the car fuel - just won't run very well. I would try it with the proper Nitro aero fuel before you start any further investigation :)
Mine won't start trophy 3.5 trying to do the first break in procedure started a few times but only got to about half a tank as it cut out most of time then I left it to next day then I tried starting it and it wouldn't start glow plug lights up fine it's at factory settings and it primes however when I do prime it I can here air leaking from the fuel cap
Hi, my buggy won't start after a head on collision with a sidewalk. My receiver bugged out and lost connection and it kept going. horrifying feeling to say the least. Before I repair the connections I want to make sure it can run again. I've done everything stated in the video. During the crash the exhaust came off the front lip of the chassis bent up and the rc car flipped upside down and was still running for about 10 seconds on its back revving exceptionally high before it stopped on its on. After sitting for 2 days I tried to started and it ran for about 3 seconds and cut out and can not get it to even ignite. Appreciate any help
Alright I’ll do my best to help so your exhaust lip your engines exhaust for any kinds of dents scrapes and damages open it up take it apart simply just check the crank piston and con rod are ok and not damaged from the long period of high speed reving while upside down you will most likely find something damaged check your gears as they may have been Damaged that’s all I can tell you from what you told Me
Hey mate I have a HSP WARHEAD brand new I have been trying to start it but it won’t fire over, I have check glow plug it has good bright orange glow to it, also have primed and unprimed my engine many times but still won’t start
My hpi racing trophy 3.5 doesn't start cold because of my tuning setting/ fuel but a couple of minutes heating the engine up in my cars foot well with the heater on, or using a hair dryer, it starts first pull every time
Hi there; I have an hsp warhead nitro car. Iv noticed that when driving for a few tanks the car begins to get sluggish and even cuts out during acceleration...I have richened the HSN but it continues...do you think the clutch may be worn?
Kayez GX if its still sluggish... You may have enriched it too much.. may want to lean it out.. it sounds as if it gets too much fuel/lubricant after a while... Although I'm not an expert... however there are tons of tuning videos around.
JT12's R/C Videos if I'm out an about at my local jumps I've usually driven there so on the way I have my 3.5 trophy in the passenger footwell with the heater on , by the time I've arrived it's warm and starts first pull
Hi, I could really use some help. I was giving a HPI Savage and it had a 24.7 XMT nitro motor. I don't know the settings for the HSP LSP and there is a third needle I don't know what it dose.
There could be an air lock in the fuel lines. Remove the fuel line that attaches to the carburettor, and then blow through. When fuel starts coming through, stop blowing and replace the fuel line. Then blow again to get fuel into the carb.
Hello i manage to start my t-maxx after 6 years sitting in the garage yesterday i played with it about 20 minutes and today i tried to start it and nothing. I tried so hard for one hour. Fuel is coming in and its brand new one also glow plug is brand new. Can you help me out please
Plucheron Gaming I know this is late but you might need to tune it because the tune needs to change everyday because of weather conditions. Or try charging the glow igniter
my inferno won't start and i've installed a new glow plug and fuel is going in but when i tip my car on it's side raw fuel comes out of exhaust. also, carb gap is more than 1 mm
I bought 3 redcats. First a tornado s30, an earthquake, and vortex ss. Broke in just great, ran for a couple months really great. One day they started having trouble starting. They all have nitro spray coming from the front engine bearing. Just behind the clutch plate. Its done this all their life. I just found out that its the front bearing and I'm replacing them in 1 week, we'll see how it goes.
Yeah leaking front bearing will cause performance issues for sure. Also leaks can occur out of the backplate (behind the pull start). Hope it sorts the issue
@@TheRCBiker when I prime fuel it gets all the way to the carb then when the engine starts it pushed air into the fuel tank from the exhaust and forms bubbles at the carb. Replaced everything with known working parts, EXCEPT the engine bearings. Pull start looks great 👍
My nitro stampede 2wd will not start the guy at the Rc shop tuned it a couple of months ago like 3 or 5 months ago and how do I check the ez start to see if my ez start is bad because it just sits there and reverse it’s a brand new.15 Traxxas engine I moved recently I think for sure my old neighbor stole my brand new glow plug igniter because I ran home and come back to his house and it was going and it and snowed and I would have seen it on top of the snow
I've just bought a hyper 7 nitro i don't know much about nitro it seen too run okay when started but it takes forever to start like 50 plus pulls thanks
my buggy took a swim, oooppps!!!! ive dismantled and cleaned/reassembled inc most of engine. now ive got a problem. when i try to start engine i find pull start very very stiff ( as if engine flooded ). it is fine when glow plug removed. any ideas ??? bearings mayby ???
I left my nitro rc in the garage for 2 years and there was a little bit of fuel in it and it's stuck I can't get the jelly and gunk of I need help I've tried hot water but not working do u have any suggestions
Hello and thanks for the great video I'm new to this Hobby I bought a used Traxxas Tmaxx 3.3 got it running and now I can get it to fire I checked the Glow plug and it wouldn't ignite but then I noticed fuel coming from my Exhaust is this normal?Thanks in advance I subscribe to your channel these cars make me fell young again lol Thanks again
Hi Tony, thank you for subscribing. Yes it's normal to see that coming out of the exhaust, it's actually just unburnt oil :) Try putting a bit of fuel directly on top of the piston and see if it fires
i bought a brand new hsp 1:10 buggy and used it once then pull start broke so a few months later ive just converted it to drill start because i have bad luck with pull statrs and all it does now is spray all the fuel out the exhasut
I have a used traxxas t maxx, i've checked everything you said but the tuning part is where everything doesn't work, my throttle idle is set to 1mm, but when i turn it on it works but as soon as i let the igniter go it dies
i ran my kyosho inferno neo 2.0 a day and a half ago now wont start i have the D battery glow ignitor maybe thats it...i also have adjusted air filter screw please help...
Check the Low Speed needle tuning setting it could be turned out all the way allowing loads of fuel in. But what you describe can be normal in new engines, is the engine new?
Have done all the pre checks and still won’t start. Tried dripping a bit of fuel straight into carb and then it starts and burns off that bit of fuel then dies. Seems like I just can’t get the fuel Flowing into the carb for some reason.
Ok that's a good test. Is it a new engine? If fuel isn't getting through it'll either be the tuning needles set too lean (likely the low end), or if it's an old engine the carb could actually be blocked.
What's the HSN Set like? The only other thing I'd check is the seal within the fuel tank lid. Sometimes this can go bad which means the fuel system cannot pressurise hence why fuel is not pushed through to the carb
@@TheRCBiker seal looked ok, but given it a wipe down and opened up the HSN 2 qtr turns turn and eureka, its finally sprung into life again with a bit of perserverance. must have been either of these or combination of both. Cheers
Hi Alex, what method of priming are you trying? Try removing the fuel line that goes to the carb, and remove the fuel line that goes to the exhaust. Blow into the one that goes into the exhaust, fuel will come out of the one that goes to the carb. There might just be an air lock or something
I took my sh .18 powered buggy out today and tried to start it but it didn't run so I returned it to factory settings but it still didn't want to run so I checked my igniter on a spare glow plug and it wasn't glowing very brightly so I charged it and it now glows white instead of orange glow. the point of this post is make sure your igniter is charged and don't be stupid like me :)
Alexander Juhola-Jones hahahaha I've had a similar issue except I was at the track getting ready for my first race ! Talk about feeling stupid , luckily one of the other teams loaned me one ! ( and I left my charger at home 😕)
sounds like you made a simple mistake that you are humble enough to admit. you also have learned from that mistake and tries not only to never have it happen to you again but cares enough to help teach others a simple and valuable lesson from your experience. see you have turned something small like a little mistake and are turning it into a thing of good by helping more then just yourself. you turn that into a valuable life lesson, so dont ever call yourself stupid because that you are not.
Hey so I tried starting my car up and it just keeps pumping fuel through and it won't ignite. I tried setting it to factory settings, it didn't work, I checked my glow plug and igniter, they worked fine. It just won't start.
hi can someone help me when I turned my RC car it wouldn't stop moving it should only stop moving when in on brakes the idle isn't to high I reset the tuning things and it didn't work help please
My other half and I have recently purchased a nitro car, which means we are newbies to it but we can’t get the damn thing to start up no matter what, we’ve tried so much
Hi Hannah, Is it a new car or second hand? You might need to return the tuning needles back to default if it's used. Providing that is OK, remove the glow plug and check it - should be glowing a bright red. With the glow plug removed pour a little nitro fuel directly into the engine through the glow plug hole. Replace glow plug. Check Idle Gap is set 1mm open. If all those things are set then it will start : )
Layton Mitchell maybe you need to tighten the screws on the drill start if that's what you mean. do that by taking the engine out of the car. I have a tutorial on how to do it.
Hi Ahmed. Keep in mind that engines need just three things to start, they need Fuel, Air & Heat. So, put some fuel directly on top of the piston. Check the Idle gap is open 1mm. And check the glow plug is glowing red. If all of those things check out, it will start!