You can guarantee it's going to happen if you spray your clear on too quickly. You spray your base coat and either spray the clear when it's touch dry (recommended time), or when it's fully dry (2-3 full days later). Short cutting the drive time to spray clear will get you cracking 100% of the time.
What kind of paint are you talking about? I’ve never heard of waiting 2-3 days but I’m mostly familiar with automotive paint. The stuff I use you’re supposed to wait 30 minutes after the last coat of base and the spray clear. If you waited 2-3 days you’d have to scuff and then spray a coat of base again and then wait 30 minutes and clear. That’s how you get a good chemical bond instead of just a mechanical bond.
i catch myself watching your videos sometimes and i forget to drop a like and i legit get upset with myself cuz i really take the info you give seriously. I would just imagine it must feel quite good to know that all the way out in South Africa someone is using your advice. Very happy with the content on this channel
Just painted a plastic dust buster housing with Rust-Oleum American Accents Gloss Orange (Paint + Primer). Prepped it with1500, then 2000 grit paper. Cleaned it with soapy water in a spray bottle. Then rinsed it with distilled water from a spray bottle. Dried it with lint free blue shop towels. And finally sprayed it down with 70% Isopropyl alcohol, and dried that with a blue shop towel. Shook the new can of paint for a full minute, then sprayed the piece with a light dusting coat. This paint dries FAST. Shot the second coat 10 mins later, which built into a gorgeous orange gloss, with ZERO orange peel, wrinkles, or dusting. It was PERFECT. Shot it outside in direct sunshine, at 84° F, and 48% humidity, per my gauges, with almost no wind speed. The only thing I had to worry about was that errant A-hole flying insect that inevitably decides he's seeing a "huge orange flower." As luck would have it, he never showed. The piece was pristine. And I should have taken that as a sign, and stopped right there. Afterall, it appeared to have a clear coat on it already. But NOPE, I HAD to "protect" this beautiful paint job with a can of 2X Gloss Clear, from the same line (Rust-Oleum American Accents). After 45 mins of dry time, I "sanded down the glossy surfaces", per the can of Clear's instructions, with the distilled water spray, and a 3000 grit paper. Gloss now gone, I dried it with a blue towel, walked it out, and set it in the sun to air dry an additional 5 mins. Went out after shaking the Clear for a full min, and started the same process as the paint job (2 coat system), except this initial coat wasn't a "dust" coat. It wasn't sag worthy either. But enough to go on as a "full gloss" coat. Everything went swimmingly for oh, about the first 25-30 seconds. Then, as if by magic, the entire job began this amazing (albeit HORRIFYING), "wrinkle crinkle" transformation that would make the worst orange peel one could imagine look perfectly acceptable by comparison. And now I'm "here", with the rest of the neer do well "painter" class....crying yall a river. 😂 So, thanks for the insight. After watching this, I'm now thinking one of three things happened. The "gloss" (obvious, NOW 😂) component of the "GLOSS Real Orange" paint, is a clear "built into" the paint. Duh. So, not only is a clear coat not required, but even if seemingly "sanded off", the clear base solvents were still present. So, BAD REACTION. Another possibility may be "something" unseen, but present in the blue shop towels that was left behind during the wipe downs. Which didnt effect the paint going onto the plastic. But once left on the sanded paint surface, was a disaster waiting to happen. Then there was the 5 min sun drying of the piece. Did the UV in the sunlight somehow act as a negative catalyst on the paint surface, to cause the reaction? Regardless, I f'd it up. I think I'll just strip it, and reshoot it with only the gloss paint. And if you've made it this far, sorry for the sad sappy sob story whiney bitch novel I'm about to post. 😬
I've read stories like yours far too often, there's a ton if you read the reviews on the paint! Sorry it happened to you. I'm not entirely sure what causes the cracking... In my experience, shooting the clear as soon as you can after gloss allows for a better bond. This is obviously not possible if you're doing any sort of wet-sanding, but I haven't always needed to. Anyways, if you find a solution, be sure to share it here!
So my experience with this is TBE paint isn't cured. You have to wait 24 hours or longer for all chemicals to come out. Some paints require clear be applied minutes after. If you wait too long but not long enough "24hr" them it cracks.
Humidity is the number one cause of crazing. If you paint in a non-controlled environment, crazing is very easy to get. I am without an indoor paint booth at the moment and I have to be very careful to only paint in certain conditions.
Trying to figure out why paint is cracking for a customer I sold paint to which happens to be a sister company I have my suspicions but will be looking into it further on Monday once I gather all of the facts. Things that I already know. 1. Small office building has humidity issues. 2. Found mold behind walls with wallpaper. 3. They had to replace most of the drywall. 4. Was painted with a primer then painted with a professional grade paint and had to apply several coats. 5. One year later, walls are showing up with fading when someone rubs it. Also has started the cracking. 6. Supplying new paint and suggesting to prime with Kills2. 7. Complaints already about how sample colors look yellow in one room and tan in another. Just wondering if it’s due to humidity still in the office and what other questions I should be asking. Thank you for your video. It was helpful!
Is the temperature there fairly stable? How long did they wait between primer and paint? Need to make sure the primer and paint were compatible of course.
Thank You Brad. This video was very helpful to me. I do acrylic pouring, and love to experiment. You have answered many questions that I had. Excellent!!!
I'm working on a project that I hope will eventually turn out great, but painting the guitar body has caused me endless headaches although it has also taught me a lot because of the mistakes I've made. First of all, before I even thought about painting I did a "mock up" matching the body and neck (with the original electronics) and the tone and playability were excellent, so I knew they were a good match. I disassembled everything and started with the body which had considerable gashes, holes, and other damage. It is made of mahogany, which I soon discovered was a very pourous wood. My first mistake was to completely sand off the existing finish before filling in all the damage. This is where I realized that I should have left the original finish on. If I had done that, I wouldn't have had to spray so many coats of primer (which of course didn't work). I finally decided to use a gloss protective enamel which seemed to finally start giving me a clear coat. My next mistake was to use too much of it. I found that it wouldn't dry. I tried baking it in the oven and leaving it out all day in the summer sun for over a month and the over runs were still not dry. Out of frustration, I put it away for a couple of months while I started learning to use my paint guns. Anyhow, when I got it back out and all the paint was finally dry. I started hand sanding it with some 500 grit paper, but the over runs were so thick that I used an electric sander with 200 grit paper just to try and get a flat finish. That removed most of the "crazing", so I started hand sanding with a higher grit paper but I still can't get a lot of the "rippling" out without sanding it almost back to the bare wood. As I mentioned before, I've learned a lot about what not to do but now I have a deliema. Should I keep sanding until all the mistakes are gone and start over or try and salvage what I started? I have a friend with a shop which is heated now that the weather is cooler, so that's not a problem. I also know a guy who owns an auto body shop and I'm almost to the point of frustration that I am considering taking it there and letting him finish the whole job. I really want to do this myself but on the other hand, I want to get the paint job done so I can put the guitar together (I've had all the new electronics and other hardware for months) and start playing it. If I do decide to paint and finish it (polyurethane) myself, how do you suggest I do this. I am an advanced player with many years of experience, but I'm still a novice at painting. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
+Mulehead now that you’ve built a finish on there, everything should be sealed up. I would sand it back flat using a sanding block, and re-finish it. This time use light coats. 3 coats of colour 15 minutes apart. Let it dry for 3 days. Sand smooth at 800 grit. Then repeat with clear coat, twice (6 coats total. For the drying, let that happen inside. Never put drying paint in direct sunlight. Let those final coats dry for 2 weeks, then you should be able to sand and polish. I’d give it another week or two after that before putting hardware on ideally.
if your paint is cracking (for acrylic paint I used crafters acrylics from the dollar store) Most likely there's to much layers or the paints drying crackly, USE A BIT OF WATER I did and the cracking stopped!
Thank you for these explanations. I recently started crafting and EVERYTHING I have spray painted this crazing has happened and I have ended up throwing away my projects. I think I am about done with crafting because I am so frustrated. It is expensive to buy the project, the paint, etc. just to end up throwing it away. Then to have all these spray cans of paint left over. So frustrating!!
@@BradAngove You mentioned that ye might make a set of videos wherein ye try do two sets one deliberately causing crazing and the other to avoid crazing. Then compare/contrast the two. Have ye perchance done this yet? I'm interested in attempting to purposely create mild crazing to create the effect of an old guitar that has mild crazing in an otherwise intact paint job. I would like see how ye do it. On a related vein, I just acquired an old vintage Matsumoto Teisco guitar that has mostly vertical cracks in the red finish so it looks like the paint it trying to split itself into vertical strips. I actually liked the look. Is there a way to reseal the finish and at the same time retain that cracked look? Would spraycan clear over the whole thing work?
What you’re looking for is probably checking rather than crazing. It’s something nitrocellulose lacquer does when it shrinks. Sometimes it happens over time, but you can also speed up the process by freezing it after you spray it.
Excellent information. I was experiencing this on one of my jobs tonight and was just baffled by it. But I think now I understand exactly what the issue was. Thank you. Very helpful 👍
Had to paint the roof around the sunroof. Yesterday it looked great. I tried fixing some fisheyes and put on another coat. From there it went south. Now I have to sand it down and start all over. But it is significantly colder today than it was 2 days ago. I think that’s where the crazing was coming from. Thanks for the info!
I was getting cocky with a huge trailer I've been painting outside, in December, in Florida, parked with one side southward and one northward. I painted the tail and the south side with zero issues (first real paint job I've done other than interior). Got the nose started and the north side. North side had a few areas that were "crazing". After some research and consideration on the specific spots that this was occurring, I'm thinking it's because they're spots that are relatively cold (relative to the rest of the trailer, which 68-75° Florida "winter" isn't cold) and therefore dry significantly slower. Thanks for the video and the reminder to not get cocky, slow down between coats.
This is why I sub.... you are quick and concise with your vids. I’m working on a metalcast strat body and the metalcast color didn’t jive with the metallic coat because I was impatient. It pulled together and made little clumps of metallic gunk under the translucent blue. Guess I need to be patient 🤷🏻♂️
I just got finished painting my guitar and i put the clear coat on when i turned away for about 5 sec I started to notice some crack and shrivel up . I had chills running up and down my back but it only happened on a certain color. I wanted to do a EVH frankenstrat look to my guitar and the only thing that was affects by this was the red everything else was fine. I probably did not dry for long enough, too bad I have to take off all the red though :(.
Just happened to me. Crazy custom paint job on a PS2 as a birthday present for my dad, did everything right and the very first layer of clear reacted and ruined the entire paintjob. Never use Rustoleum American Accents 2X Clear smh
Yeah brother I think you're right on about all of it I am working with fiberglass resin first thing and it's August and I'm working in the heat and layering problems for me thank you
Good information, great job... I would call aged laquer "crazing"... I would call Lacquer over cheap enamel "wrinkling" "peeling" or "stripping" & I would call too much paint, solvent speed issues or temperature issues "cracking", "splitting" or "crackle". But the term "crazing" to me I would reserve for old paint jobs usually Nitrocellulose Lacquer, that get brittle & crack over a long period of time, humidity issues or sun exposure... maybe decades. Lacquer can be shot and adhere on urethanes & even some enamel if they are well sanded, shot with a quality adhesion promoter like 222s (formerly Dupont, now Axalta) Sometimes you need to spray the first coats of Lacquer dry over the 222s if the enamel is of low quality catalyst. This will help avoid "wrinkling" the cheaper enamels. A quality "sandwiched" airbrushed lacquer artwork (Urethane/222s/lacquer/Urethane (Imron) finish can last for 40 years in the Florida sun with no crazing or pealing.... Guitars often have "crazing" when they were painted in nitro and get old. I went back to 100% Polished Nitro Lacquer on all my guitars due to the exceptional sound of Nitro. Finally one more source of wrinkling is laquer shot too wet with slow thinner or retarder that is then cleared in urethane before the solvent leaves the lacquer... for this reason it is advisable to use fast thinner with no retarders (wash thinner) to spray lacquer if it is intended to be cleared in urethane. Blushing due to moisture and fast thinner is not an issue if the lacquer is to be clear with urethane just sand with 500 and clear it. Everybody can call me out now "OLD SCHOOL"? :)
I painted a pickguard and back cover and it crazed over night cause it got really cold (thanks Wisconsin for being 60 degrees one day and 38 the next) thankfully it didn't happen to the guitar body and it looks cool on them. Which is great since you will not be physically touching (at least not aggressively like where you may rest your wrist on your picking arm) so it can keep the craised look
Thanks! I was already sure to leave everything (paint and doors) at room temp over night and I was still getting pretty frustrated because my issue is manifesting in my second coat on several doors I need to get done. The first coat on both sides of every piece had zero crazing, so I’m basically ruling out contaminates. I will try a slightly lighter coat and allow even more dry time between. New subscriber today 😎
You were absolutely correct regarding your chemical analysis. I was using two different brands of paint; Rust Oleum and Krylon. Both were called Appliance Epoxy. I had completed my project with the RO and ran out, but there were a few holidays. I began touch up with the K and spiderwebs or crazing came out all over, but not everywhere. It reminds me of that chemical that removes paint from cars; it just seems to break the bond.
After finding out what they wanted to charge to paint my car I decided to take it on myself. I did a complete prep job of the entire body by hand and decided on using Dupli-Color Paint Shop for all three stages: primer, color, and metallic clearcoat. I decided to use the same manufacturer for all three stages to avoid problems just like this. Initially the results were spectacular. Two years later, my car started an insane amount of crazing but only on the hood. My question is; why did it occur 2 years later? If I applied too thick wouldn't that have shown up much sooner than two years later? Sidenote: All coats we're done with a sprayer, no rattle cans.
Thanks for the great info in this video. Couldn't work out what I was doing wrong and your advice about mixing different types of paint explained it all. No enamel and lacquer combinations
This is helpful thanks, a am painting my car, and saw this on my newly finished hood... after all the cut and buff... didnt know what yhe hell happened. And when i push on the hood, i can hear it crackle... totally new experience for me
Thanks. This was helpful. I was thinking the issue I am having is the temperature. Could be room temperature. Could be the object is too cold. Gave me some things to think about. Thanks.
Wow, you even have a video on this? Anyways, I commented the other day about painting my acoustic. A matte black base with pearlescent floral designs all over. After throwing on the second clear coat, this crazing began to appear literally everywhere. It's completely ruined and all of that meticulous work has been wasted. But it does make me feel a lot better to know that I'm not the only one who's had to experience this disappointment. Thank you for the informative video! I'll be sure to put this knowledge to use now. It's not the first time I've had to learn from my mistakes Edit: I think my issue is that I might have been too generous with the clear coat, which caused the shrinking and crazing.
I got a aluminum speaker cone to a perfect black mirror finish....waited 18 hours and applied a clearcoat both rustoleum, and pretty much instantly it started crazing....I had used it before and rhis never happened...ever figure it out? Cause this didn't really help me, the speed of it happening has me convinced it was some sort of reaction...whole morning wasted 😞
Thanks for sharing..my plastic bumper just did that...I'm painting in a garage temp inside around 80s, alittle humid...I feel mine was a chemical reaction...with all the different layers I sprayed with like you said...it's disappointing
I've been working on a travel trailer, aluminum siding - white... I've fixed and have gone thru 3 cans already, various spots...but I'm doing the front. 4 spots I'm getting cracking after 1 can....it was days later dried...temp 56-65'f I thought it was the new can....I really sanded and cleaned it again with a different can (same automotive rustolum gloss white) did it again in the same area too
Cracking isn’t caused by old cans, it’s caused by paint shrinking. This can occur from temperature fluctuations, or if you’re layering too much too quickly.
This happened to me on my latest build. I thought the guitar was cured, had left it in my apt for about a week then it sat in the garage for another week. Was about to put another coat on the front and it started wrinkling. I'm like huh? I think the humidity got to it from sitting out in the garage. So just scraped off the paint and gonna start fresh. Sucks cause I was almost finished. But not gonna give up. Using rustoleum 2x paint/primer gloss. First time it has happened to me. I will learn not to leave my guitars soaking up humidity in garage. Paint and wood do not like humidity! I learned my lesson.
Yes. Don’t think you can paint in a cold garage and run it inside to off gas in the heat. Won’t work, my clear coat cracked like a road map. Now I have to wait for it warm up enough outside to repair it.
I have seen so called professional paint shops, Ford Dealers to Classic car restorers whos paint came out with pin holes and crazying. 2K or and the now new water bourne paints. Professional spray booths, I and I have never sprayed anything except hairspray, did an old car on the street, with one coat Acrylic spay and it came out fantastically until someone decided to key the bonnet!
I've had this happen the first time I painted my motorcycle tank. I tried to fix it by sanding everything down and starting from scratch along with 3 plastic pieces. Everything went great. Plastics turned out perfect but the same thing happened with the tank... I don't understand what I'm doing wrong.
@@BradAngove sanded everything out last night, was able to get it all out, praise God. Finished up with a compound and polish. Looking great. Thanks so much for all your tips via all these videos. Helped me out a lot bringing this '94 Magna back to life. Keep up the great work. God bless.
@@alexanderking3971 watch out for older bikes and cars, the factory paints used are often times not compatible with new painting processes, most of the time you need to take it right down to bare metal so the paint doesn’t have a reaction. If you want to know beforehand, always take an acetone rag and rub down the surface and see if the paint rubs off on the rag, or pour a small amount onto your work piece and see how the paint reacts. That will tell you a lot.
I painted a guitar with enamel with a lacquer burst color. Then clear coated with a clear lacquer. And the finish craisined and that was exactly what I was looking for. If you are not aware of what can happen by mixing lacquer and enamel you will be taken back. Know your paints and what works with what.
Brad Angove rather well. It was the look I was going for. Old crackly, like old paint on a window. It has held up for almost a year with no problem. I love it!
I only use the same brand paints and confirm the types are compatible with manufacturer. Rust-Oleum staff told me that if I sand any paint that is not fully cured that I should wait 48 hours to rcoat with different color or type of top coats (such as color on top of primer, or clear on top of color). They said sanding opens up pores in uncured paint that must be allowed to dry for 48 hours before adding new colors or types on top. Have you run into problems by not doing this?
I just had this problem with rustoleum, I primed and base coated a boat motor let that sit for 3 days and came back and shot clear on it and it wrinkled 70% of it. Maybe I sprayed the base on too thick because the primer was unharmed. O well try again I guess.
I used a gloss cellulose spary paint on the top coat which I had cracks. but the paint layer before was just an ordinary quick dry gloss spary paint which probably hadn't quite dried after a few hours. I think that caused the paint cracks the so called reacting. Then I sanded it all down to the level with a 400 grit sandpaper and then smoothned it with a 1000 grit and after 24 hours went over it again with the cellulose spary paint. It is important the layer should be so refune and thinly sparayed otherwise it will react again.
Just as I suspected.. This video confirmed that it wasn't just me going nuts. (liked this video btw). Story: Ran into this problem for the first time in my life today. I got gloss spray paint for my son's bike and painted it, and it came out AMAZING... THEN..... I decided to lock it all in with a clear gloss for a clear coat kinda finish. (both were enamel). Bottom line, I have to run and get fine grit sand paper and repaint out all the cracks. I think I'll let him ride it for about a week before I attempt the clear coat.. Let the actual paint bake and cure for a while. 👍🏼
@@BradAngove I've painted car parts and guitars and furniture and came out flawless, this caught me completely by surprise. Hence me stumbling onto this video. Haha
This usuall happens when we use a mate paint over a glossy one,thats how we achieve the "crackling effect",doesnt matter if its the same brand of paint or not
Thanks for the explanation 👍 I’ve had horrible clear coat problems with lines and “scratches” in the finish. As per your explanation I think it’s because I had way too much heat in my workshop. Thanks again
Really appreciate your videos - just had wrinkling happen on a Tele I'm building using all Krylon products. Let the final color coat dry 24hrs the clear coat wrinkled basically on contact. Had a similar thing happen using all Rustoleum 2X products (which is why I moved to Krylon - hey I'm on a budget). I'm really feeling this is a reaction problem - what I'm hearing on the internets is to apply color coats and then move straight to clear coat waiting around 20 - 30min per coat. Or I hear if you wait 24hrs you need to scuff the final color coat (which I hate) so the clear can bond with the color. What worked on my last job was wait 24hrs - I scuffed the final color coat - applied another coat of color - then started clear coating after 20min - worked fine. Feels like a crap shoot at times.
What you’re hearing is essentially correct. Fresh paint/clear doesn’t adhere to partially cured gloss paint (with limited exceptions). It needs to be scuffed for it to bond properly, or recoat I led within a short enough time to allow for chemical adhesion.
@@BradAngove Well that worked - I spaced these coats about 25min apart 3 primer - 3 color - 4 clear -- all were fairly light but good coverage. Turned out fine.
It's sometimes difficult to identify what went wrong when crazing happens. I've had it happen on occasion after I thought I had all the bases covered to prevent it. I do know that crazing can be created everytime if there is a temperature difference between the temperature of your paint and the temperature of the surface that your painting. Take a 70 deg. F rattle can from your warm house and spray it on primed metal item outside that has been stored at the outside temperature of 60 deg. F and I guarantee you will have crazing.
Thank you for the explanation of paint crazing. I totally screwed up my first paint job where I had bubbling on the hood and top of my car and shrinkage along the edges of where I painted. It has scared me to not repaint the car. I want to overcome this huge failure but I am driven to learn how to paint better. Should I wait at least a day after primer and a day after base coat before I do a clear coat just in case to avoid trapping solvent? I appreciate any and all advice in advance. Thank you kindly!
Hi there! This is very informative, never having dealt with something like this before, I really wanted to understand where I went wrong. I am doing a DIY in my bathroom on the countertop with Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy spray. I started to get this problem and I think it’s because I didn’t wait the 30 minutes for the next coat.. I waited a day. So now, sanding like crazy to get it smooth and guess I will wait a week to recoat (since the can says recoat in 30 min or a week). When I recoat, I will be sure to do much lighter coats. You live and you learn, right?! I learned on this one for sure!!! 🤦🏼♀️
So for me , I love using isopropyl alcohol, if you sand with anything finer then 300 you need to heat gun after an ipa wipe-down or the alcohol will fuck up the paint and cause the weird spider wed thing
Thanks Good food for preventative measures. (Hind sight and all, UHG) I know squat about painting . . . GOT these y block valve covers, put on a good coat of tremclad hi heat gloss black (which by the way is a medium gloss at the most, maybe ) but for these covers I wanted hi gloss and heat resistance. So I sprayed the heat paint on bear metal wiped clean first w acetone then within 10 minutes sprayed tremclad hi gloss normal paint. Both good layers. Was really glossy and looked great. A day later I noticed at the edge of the flanges a tiny glimmer of steal I missed painting, so I sprayed these edges and a few spots on the covers again. Now I have alligator skin texture valve covers. I'm going to leave paint on and allow it to thoroughly dry like for a few warm days or more, sand with fine paper and try again. I'm guessing the coats were thick and haven't thoroughly dried enough. (Or the hi heat paint is another chemical).
I got crazing/ cracks on my post catalytic lacquer on top of a furniture piece that had shellac and paint but only on the top which is weird - I also got it with paint when I painted over lacquer
I was using lacquer thinner to even out some touch up paint. I had put a piece of tape to mark the area. I think I went a little overboard with the thinner. The tape seems to have absorbed some of the thinner when I lifted the tape, there is a small area of the clearcoat that appears to have slightly“raised” “lifted” or “expanded” it’s only visible against the light. I’m concerned that the thinner penetrated into the there might be some crazing in that area later on. It’s a factory finish. What do you think?
@@BradAngove Plain white, BMW 3 years old. I suspect if there’s a problem there, it might be more visible if it was a different colour. I don’t see a hint of change or discolouration on the white itself. Funny thing is the “raised” area is further away from where the tape starts absorbing the thinner. You would figure an oddity would appear where the tape is most saturated by the thinner but the inner area of saturation looks fine. It’s barely visible anyways, it could almost blend in with the orange peel. It’s not an issue, just concerned if something will happen long term.
You could spray a sheet of spruce then put in cold place as soon as dry or begore finished drying and it would have crazing. No need ruin guitar but if you plan on how to get rid of crazing thatd be eorth a watch.
A great little tutorial! Planning my first build using auto paints and this will motivate me to NOT RUSH the various layers. With other finishes like stain, oil, wax I have also had problems by being in too much of a hurry. specifically after getting a nice look after many coats of Danish Oil type treatment (similar to TruOil) I've gone to waxing too early even though I've waited a day after the final oil application. It makes for a real problem as that wax polishing which requires a hard buffing and heating up the wax has softened the underlying layers and makes it impossible to get a a good finish. Easily recoverable though in that as the oil and the Renaissance wax I was using are petroleum based I just left the body for a day and then did a coat or two of oil and then left it a few days before waxing again. Much better! For info I still wasn't totally happy with the look so waited a few more days and then used Autoglym Resin Polish (another auto product). That's a liquid product and much easier to apply than the solid wax but probably needed the wax underneath. The result was really pleasing. In short I totally agree that there is everything to gain by waiting as long as possible between layers (meaning different products like primer, colour, and gloss) and to a degree between coats of each layer.
What i find handy is clean after every coat that dry's i use a vevor spray booth & dew to lack of ventilation after 15min's between coat's put a fan on to get some air flowing & yes i've had plenty of wrinkle's
Got cracking from 3 variables on my 2nd coat of clear. Heat, was like 95-100. Too heavy a second coat within 20 minutes. And might have been incompatible putting rustoleum clear over krylon fusion. Had no problems putting my krylon coats on in the temps
I sprayed candy paint over silver paint and a week later I’m seeming lines in the paint. I wonder if it was because I used a spray can primer. Also it was a bit cooler in temp.
Just happened, sanded smooth old paint and surface, but could not sand inside the wiring cavities, scrubbed the guitar clean including cavities and sprayed some Zinnser BIN white spray shellac and the areas in the cavities all wrinkled, the rest of the guitar where i sanded smooth were fine
Ive had this problem before when its a paint reaction and im in a pinch I re sand the problem spot spray the whole piece in clear coat to incapsulate the whole piece and start over for some reason clear coat doesn’t react
Yep so iv paint a hood 6ft by 3ft,looked great at first. Then sanded cuz I wanted it perfect,wet sanded then dried it. Cool day then probably made it colder. Spray painted not even 10 seconds later the paint started wrinkling man this can be so frustrating
It's always been a Crap Shoot for me. Different colors of paint seem to react differently during cure. ESPECIALLY Reds, I have found. Red shades, in my experience, take longer to dry. Black (a Value, not a color) on the other hand, dries quickly, and I have had Incredible luck with. Some days are just better than others. 🎨
I'm kinda pissed, because I have spent 2 days prepping a car for rattle can paint. Followed manufacturer's rules perfectly, in perfect form. It did this, any idea as to why? 60 to 70 degrees F. 10% humidity. Covered, painted in shade.. 1 coat Rust-oleum Painter's Choice Gloss Blue Prime+Paint. Waited 60 minutes. 2 coats Rust-oleum Gloss Navy Blue Enamel, 45 minutes apart. No runs, drips, or reactions at this point. Waited 30 minutes to apply clear. I was excited. 1st coat of Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel. Waited 30 minutes. Seemed fine. 2nd coat Clear, and little random lines formed within 1 minute of spraying it on. Waited 30 minutes. 3rd coat. 30 minutes. More lines formed. 4th coat, and even more lines. Is this crazing? It looks kinda cool, almost like a pattern of crackling, but will it be flaking off fast? I don't know. It's drying now. Daylight tomorrow after coffee will tell. Sure is annoying though.
Cracking and crazing aren’t quite the same, and I can’t tell which one you have. Sounds to me like it’s probably cracking from re-coating after 30 minutes when the last coat is part way through the drying process.
@@BradAngove I called Rust-Oleum. I've spoken to 3 of them so far to prepare this project. 3 different advice sets. 😆 Between them and my test I did prior I think the process was fine up until the Clear. The auto paint product specialist said to wait maximum of 15 minutes between ANY and ALL coats being applied in one session. And that ALL coats should be laid down prior to 1 hour passing from start time. So to do 7 light coats like I want in one hour that's a coat every 8 minutes, with 2 minutes to spare between each coat to fetch and shake a warmed can. Speed painting. Their instructions don't say this on any of the cans though. The instructions on the color cans I used say recoat anytime up to 1 hour, or wait 48+ hours. The Clear can says "recoat anytime". So that's a failure to provide clear directions...pun intended. A test spray I did using 4 coats on an old hood I had didnt have any wrinkle though. I did 2 light color coats 20 minutes apart, waited 30 minutes, then 2 light Clear coats 15 minutes apart. Those were fine. So that was 65 minutes. Right at their 1 hour session limit. So it seems to agree with their phone advice. So I think my Clear coat time was too long on the car panels. Should have stuck to 10 to 15 minutes between Clear coats. But their cans don't say this is necessary. It is likely due to our humidity being low (around 20%) and air temp still warm around 70F. In a very humid area my time-line would likely have been just fine. Thus is DIY Life. Now I get to wet sand like a boss and hope I don't get into the color layer, or roughly knock down the wrinkles with 1000+ grit and apply Hammered Clear to cover it up. I'm thinking try in that order using Hammered Clear as backup. Next time I will test spray exactly as I plan to do on final project! 😆
I tried so many different techniques painting and sanding my guitar. But no matter how many coats I put on or how long I let it dry or how rough or how smooth it is, as soon as I go to spray on the clear coat it cracks within seconds. Then I have to let it dry and sand it back down and start over. I’m using the same brand and type of clear coat as paint and I have no idea what I’m doing wrong.
Had a different problem once with one brand of pressure pack cans ... Undercoated (2 coats) a guitar body and neck and let it all dry for a week. Put 3 coats of colour on over 3 consecutive days and weirdly had the undercoat colour seep through the top coats but only in certain places mostly on the neck and near some edges on the body. Thankfully the overall effect didn't look too bad so it was left as is and then clear coated which went on fine.... Only thing I can think that happened was with each new top coat being applied the solvents in the colour coat dissolved some of the undercoat up to the visible surface ... go figure....
Local Aussie product called 'White Knight'. Cheaper end of the market rattle can paint stocked by smaller hardware stores used by home renovators and DIY for furniture and kids toys projects. Quite hard wearing and very decent finish. I used the Copper colour over a cream undercoat... have a look at www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=7653 for more details...
I’m using laquer on wood. I always spray with under coat before final coats. But sometimes in small areas it cracks and fall off. What is the cause of this?
Ugh this is happening to me! Of course your temp point is super helpful- I’m in AZ and it’s 85 at 5am 🤔 guessing that’s still too hot since I’m still getting the crazing - yes painting that early!
I tried prime ring my guitar I did the primer two days ago. I left the primer to dry a day when I looked the next morning there was alittle bit of cracks in the primer. Looking on the internet I searched what kind of grit to use 220 popped up. Used the 220 sanded the primer where the cracks were. I took a rag and cleaned off the dust today I decided to do a second coat. Within 20-30 seconds the second coat of primer cracked the whole primer on the back of the guitar. I don’t know what to do.... any ideas brad?
thankyou heaps. I finished painting a set of Rims and could not work out wtf happened. It looked great after I finished the clear coat, had a look the next day and the paint under the clear was ripped and rippled everywhere.
Brad Angove yes it did, was much useful information thankyou. Quick question, is it possible to respray acrylic base coat over 2k clear with just a light sand of the clear or would I have to sand the clear coat completely back to the acrylic base coat
I painted a panel on my car a while back and I was spraying the colour coat at night (stupid mistake) the next morning I saw the paint and it was completely the wrong colour. Don't be stupid like me and go off of the colour of the cap😂. Anyway i went to my local motor factors and got the proper shade for my car and sprayed over the old paint ( after sanding it down a bit) just over a year later and I have to do it again because everything is cracking and chipping off. I'm guessing the first paint I used was different from the 2nd so it probably caused some sort of reaction.
I think its a reaction with certain metals after sanding. I've started cleaning metal sufaces with either a light glass beading or methanol wipe before priming.
Hi Brad, really appreciate your videos. I'm painting a bike frame (aluminium + montana gold) and just sprayed my 2nd coat of SprayMax 2K matte. 1st layer came out nicely, cured 24 h and lightly sanded with 800. 2nd spraying crazed/crackeled in parts. I suspect too cold & humid + too thick of a coat... can this be saved? Can I - let it dry, sand down the bad topcoat and give it another go with a fresh can of that expensive 2K? Cheers
Hi, Ive never heard of that 2K paint till just now & I found it on Amazon. Whats special about it? Did you say you sanded (wet?) between coats w/800? Were you able to resolve the crackling? Ive just painted a portion of my truck w/Rustoleum Professional Gloss White & had the 1st coat come out gr8, but the 2nd coat (55hrs later) crackled in 1 spot. Thanks.
I had my mirror silver beautiful, used distilled water to wipe down, after curing before spray8ng my candy and now it's crazed but didn't craze on other parts same methid
Yeah, just had this happen to me trying to finish up a guitar kit.... gonna see how it dries and might just even leave it a lone a laquer over it. ...but going from a cold apartment to outside, back inside, would that ruin the laquer?? Nevermind, you said not to use laquer over enamel paint....good to know!!!!
