The problem is when you have to overseed due to any type of summer heat, storm or other type of damage. Can go with Tenacity to seed and then maybe 6 weeks later put down a stronger longer lasting pre-emergent and hope you stop some of the poa annua that may have not yet germinated yet. Such a tough call, but without more seed, some of the areas will remain bare.
Tell me what will control the Poa Anna in my Bermuda, I use Barricade Fall and early Spring and I see same each year. I probably see less each year. I did use Negate last spring so it killed a lot of it off.
Waiting 2 seasons for my new resto. to get deep roots in the ground. I will hit it post stuff if needed. Prod. stays in soil way more than one might think. Is there anything that does not prune the new roots i could put down?
Hi amber was wondering in the spring I'm in southern nj , so I was told that you can put out I have prodiamine early and it will just sit until whether warms up ,is that ok so I don't miss my window thanks
You can apply Prodiamine as a pre-emergent for fall, but you do need to activate it into the soil with at least 0.5 inch of watering or rainfall within 14 days of the application. It would be best to monitor your soil temperatures (you can find these online by your zipcode) and be sure to put down your pre-emergent for fall before soil temperatures drop below about 70 degrees.
@@grassthief1280 While you can technically put down pre-emergent anytime it’s not frozen, precipitating, and there is not snow or ice on the ground, if you live in an area with a long winter and the soil temperature is already that low, then 50 degrees is really the lowest end of the spectrum on a fall application. This is because most fall/winter weeds will germinate as soil temperatures drop below about 70 degrees, so if you are waiting until it’s consistently down to about 50, then you may be missing a lot of plants. How much a fall application will help into spring depends on how long the winter is, the soil consistency and moisture, the target plants, and other factors. Keep in mind that some of the first weeds to appear in late winter/early spring, such as dandelions, actually start to germinate in the fall.
Usually this is the case, yes. Most pre-emergent herbicides need to be applied to turfgrass that is well-established, which is after at least 4 weeks or the second mowing, whichever is longer. Be sure you review the product label of the pre-emergent you are using for any other precautions.
To confirm, I can put down a preemergent late in the fall as long s it’s down and activated before the ground temps drop below 70, correct? I ask because I plan to overseed within the next week and want to give the seeds time to germinate and not be killed by the preemergent application.
Yes, it is ideal to get your pre-emergent down for fall before the soil temp dips around 70 for 2-3 days. Keep in mind that most pre-emergent herbicides CANNOT be used at the same time that you are overseeding because they will prohibit the new seeds from coming up. If you have new grass coming up, then it needs to be well established before you can put almost any herbicides at all on it - this is usually after at least 4 weeks or the second mowing, whichever is longer. One huge exception is that Tenacity Herbicide www.domyown.com/tenacity-herbicide-p-1877.html can be applied before or at the same time as turfgrasses listed as tolerant on the label (NOT St. Augustine or Bermuda, especially). Please be sure that you carefully read and follow all label directions on any product you plan to use, especially in relation to seeding intervals. Of course, we are always happy to assist you by phone as well at 866-581-7378.
@@johnames6430 John, I know the seeds won't germinate if I apply preemergent before they germinate. My question is will the preemergent be effective if I apply it in October (will be about 6 weeks after seeding), well after the seeds have already germinated as long as the ground temps are 70 and above. I've read where folks say you have to apply preemergenct in September but never mention soil temps being one of the parameters; only timing. We can have 70* temps into November sometimes, but mid to late October is usually when temps may get iffy. I'll be planting seeds next week. Thanks
@@johnames6430 Thanks for info. I have a thermometer I use to test soil temperature. I will use that site against my soil temp test to see just how accurate that website is.
Yes, we do recommend that you wait for the new grass seed to germinate and take root with a few mowings before applying a pre-emergent so that you do not inhibit the growth of the new grass seeds.
Yes, with most pre-emergent herbicides, you cannot overseed. The only exception is usually Tenacity, which you can apply anytime before seeding or at the same time as seeding (though not on newly emerged turfgrass): www.domyown.com/tenacity-herbicide-p-1877.html Most pre-emergents must be used on established turfgrass only, so you would not be able to use one until any new turf is well-established.
Dimension 2EW is a great pre-emergent to use for dallisgrass in Bermuda and most other established lawns. You would do a late winter/early spring application to prevent dallisgrass (and crabgrass): www.domyown.com/dimension-2ew-herbicide-p-1494.html. For post-emergent control, Revolver applied in the fall is a great option: www.domyown.com/revolver-selective-herbicide-p-1561.html
Is there any post emergent that kills crabgrass without harming at Augustine? I have a ton of crabgrass growing horizontally... so much so that it's like a rug in certain spots where I can feel an inch or more of space between the roots and the soil. I'm afraid the pre emergent I plan to put down either wont make contact with soil or will take forever for the crabgrass to phase out.
A pre-emergent herbicide prevents new weeds from growing, so it’s not going to kill any existing crabgrass. If you have such thick weeds in some areas that you can no longer see the turf, then you probably want to use a non-selective herbicide like RoundUp QuikPro on those spots and then resod as needed: www.domyown.com/roundup-quikpro-15-oz-packs-p-1125.html For smaller areas, you can use Image Kills Nutsedge as a post-emergent for crabgrass in St. Augustine and other warm-season turfgrass: www.domyown.com/image-kills-nutsedge-concentrate-p-9448.html For larger lawns, you can use MSM. Be sure to check the rates since this product is used at very low rates: www.domyown.com/msm-turf-herbicide-p-18053.html Please call us at 866-581-7378 if you more specific questions about your lawn care.
@@domyown non selective meaning that it will also kill the crabgrass? Do the other two besides roundup still affect the st Augustine? I have heard that there are not any selective herbicides for crabgrass in st Augustine because they are very similar.
A selective herbicide is one that kills some plants and not others, for example, killing crabgrass but not your desirable turfgrass. A non-selective herbicide affects any plants you spray with it. When treating grassy weeds like crabgrass in St. Augustine, you often need more than one application and may only see suppression (not total control) on more mature weeds.
