VW engineers responsible for, among others, the TSI engine, need to be sent over to Japan to learn how true engines are designed and built. TSI engines are failing at just over 100k km due to relatively minor cam chain/tensioner issues which should've been addressed during the design stage. Planned obsolescence immediately comes to mind.
Everyone talking as if Japanese engines are all that. Plenty of Japanese engines are absolute garbage, but some like the K-series are good. it's the same with all manufacturers. Take the 1.9TDi VW unit for example. Super reliable
@@yanierolivera4678 bad turbos and plugged egrs? You obviously never owned one. My current Passat is on 478000 miles, on UK roads, not big long freeways like America. . Had 1 clutch and dmf, original turbo, egr, airflow meter. Serviced as per the vw schedule. Don't sit there and tell me they're unreliable. Another who believes the crap about dirty diesels too.
@@TheBlaert yeah it's like they made the whole thing up. Just to destroy Volkswagen. What a piece of crap car to start with. I got a friend who makes a good living off the stupid suckers that by vw's though. That's a good thing
I've seen these engines last over 600K miles with no serious issues. Bulletproof!!!!!! However, Honda engines MUST have REGULARLY SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE. Period.
Absolutely wonderful teardown. Your voice is so clear and i love how you edit your videos! You show all the necessary details without wasting time!! More professionally done than most big channels and its done on the ground on cardboard!
I'm going to like and comment on all your videos I watch so youtube gives you more ad revenue and more recommendations to other people because you deserve it.
I learned so much with this video. I've own the same Accord for 11 years now and I'm aware of every single issue with the engine that you mentioned. I have no intention to ever tear down my engine for any reason but this video helped me understand my car's engine so much better. I hope one day I can develop the knowledge and nerves to do an engine swap or rebuild. Thank you so much!!
These truly are the best engines. 250k on my CRV and it still runs like new. No leaks, no noise, no issues whatsoever. I had a good look at the valve train when I performed a valve adjustment and everything still looks clean and good with minimal wear
How far out of adjustment were the valves? My 4 cyl outlander calls for valve adjustment but ive read its not worth it unless it's very loud (loose) or very quiet (tight)
Great engines. My 2005 Accord Lx with a 5 speed manual transmission gave me 491000 hwy miles with only basic maintenance and synthetic oil changes every 5,000 mi. Best car I ever had.
Yup starting out with a new K20C2 engine in my wife's 2020 Civic Sport 6 speed manual, With 5000 miles on it now I changed the oil with 0W-20 XL Amsoil The mid Grade full synthetic from Amsoil. Car is getting 36.6 mpg Average. Very fun to drive.👍
Man, its unbelievable that with all these intricacies and details you have outlined in your videos, you can buy basic modern cars for around $25K.. Everyone should feel entitled just driving down the road! I guess the life lesson I have learned from your videos is that be grateful for what you have in modern life!
@Green Mamba Games. Really?? Why don't you start a car company? Where you can mass manufacture economical cars at current price point. Suddenly Rocket science becomes trivial.
Yes! Every mechanic I know has told me that Honda's K engines are the best. And this applies both to K20 and K24. Btw, Honda's naturally aspirated petrol engines are generally highly reliable.
Came here to say the same, I once ordered extra bolts to then realize that the bolts were not actually missing. Thank you! And great tear down and info, thanks for doing this op!
I work in IT sales for a multinational company, but love to watch your videos to brain num. Keep up the great work. They are very educational. I used to own and operate semie trucks in the oilfield in Alberta.
Love the K-series! The vtec solenoid can be an issue but full synthetic oil and on time intervals keeps that little screen from clogging up. Thanks for the content!
@@speedkar99 In my experience with these people who go longer than they should on conventional on a regular basis or and then finally decide to go synthetic yes I’ve seen them leak. The seal is usually brittle and falls apart even when removing. The additive pack for synthetic is higher in detergent and the same crud that clogs up the screen seems to reinforce the crusty seal until you use synthetic which can clean the crud and cause a leak. Seen this happen on valve cover gaskets many times with people who have poor maintenance habits. Nowadays they’re all spec’d 0w20 which I’ve only seen in synthetic. Of course if you decide to use what Honda specifies. I don’t for mine and still no blown engine or any other problems.
To be fair I had my VTEC solenoid fail before the screen clogged up. At least it's on the outside of the engine and in my old accord is super easy get to. I just traded my accord this week for a 3rd gen fit and I already miss it. That engine was still running perfect despite the rest of the car falling apart from rust around it.
VTEC solenoid issues can also be caused by the electrical connector wearing out and making a bad connection. It's usually worth cleaning and reseating the connector before replacing the whole thing. You can also try just changing the oil. The only time I've ever had a VTEC solenoid issue it went away after an oil change.
I have never been inside an engine until I got an EP3 civic si . I changed the camshafts on it myself 😎👌 I LOVE this engine it is VERY EASY to modify and upgrade . Honda did an outstanding job with the k series engines simply amazing
Actually, Honda uses the single valve at low rpm to increase turbulence thereby promoting a more homogeneous mixture and thereby a more rapid combustion.
In my experience, rust is the killer not mechanical failure. It doesn't matter how good the engine is if you're never going to get the bodywork around it through scrutiny. All I can say is, rust protection far outweighs any mechanical advantage in salty climates. People in dry places rave about Japanese cars, but in the cold climates they really didn't hold up until relatively recently. Mechanically they're usually excellent, but they would just end up with holes in the floor. The Japanese take better care of their roads and don't salt them up as much as everywhere else, so a lot of their cars (esp JDM versions) weren't galvanised for the longest time. That's why in the UK, a huge proportion of the 70s Japanese cars you see are LHD, because they've been imported from dry places like California. Almost all of the RHD ones originally sold here or Japan are long gone. Most manufacturers globally got on top of it during the 90s and 00s. Some models started to hold up very well, and eventually they figured it out and all of them got decent protection after a while. Up until then they rotted away like 1960s European cars. Like Cortinas or Minis.
@@thegearknob7161 I have a 2000 Corolla with high mileage, and mechanically it's held up very well. The paint is excellent, too. But as soon as you get to the bottom, it's rusted. The car was made in Canada and apparently spent some time in the east coast of the U.S., so I imagine it's seen its share of salt. Even the fuel line is rusted, almost all the way through, they tell me. I'm debating trying to replace it with high-pressure fuel-injection hose to save time and money. lol
@@johnnykwon8173 This is exactly what I'm talking about. The k makes more power more efficient than the b. I've had zero issues with my k20a2 and it's got high lift cams 10 years going.
@@johnnykwon8173 I'm confused, do you mean the b16b? That's the only b-series engine I know of that revs to 9k stock. B18c5 redline is 8400. K20a2 redline is 8200 k-pro pushes it up to 8600 Neither b or k will make power above their redlines without heavy modification. Peak power is well below their respective redlines.
I loved the K20Z3 motor, supremely engineered and bulletproof. It liked to burn oil though, and one tim while revving it to 8600 RPM the oil light went on. Checked my dipstick, was shocked to find there was no oil on the dip. Filled the oil back up and it had zero signs of damage or wear in the next oil change.
Probably had a little bit of cavitation in the oil pump, quite common when you rev an oil pump past 8000rpm, sounds like you might’ve got a little lucky!
I have the valves adjusted on my 2006 Honda Element with the K24A engine @ 105K mile intervals by my Honda garage master mechanic. He said the problem with the Honda valves needing adjustment is not because the valves get loose, it is because they get tight. Whatever the reason, the inside of my cylinder head still looks new with premium synthetic oil changes @ 5K mile intervals. My car has never burned oi or had any leaks. All I do is scheduled services. Wonderful engine! The only thing that "broke" on it was the starter which wore out. Unfortunately, it is underneath the intake manifold.
3 года назад
I had a 2003 Accord with a K24A3. Great engine. Had about 390000 km on the clock when i eventually sold it. There was nothing wrong with it, I just got bored with front wheel drive. That engine has the "performance" VTEC on both intake and exhaust cams. It really likes to rev (VTEC point at 6000 rpm, 190 hp at 6800 rpm and rev limiter at 7300 rpm :D), but also has some useful low end torque compared to the K20A6 that's more commonly found in Accords here. It also got the same if not better fuel mileage.
@@colinjohnson5515 Wix, higher grades of Napa (Gold etc) , etc. The most expensive FRAMs are decent but at that price point there are better deals. Or alternately the car manufacturer filters tend to be good and reasonably priced. The issue with the orange FRAMs is the structure keeping the filter material in place is made of cardboard.
Can you do a video on Toyotas 5.7 litre v8 3UR-FE engine? Used in Tundras, Sequoias and Landcruisers for those who don't know. Would be extremely interesting.
A common issue with these engines in that year range of hondas is apparently when the power steering pump goes out it leaks fluid all over your alternator so you end up having to replace both.
This motor is amazing, have it in my 2016 accord sport. I have 86500 miles on it, zero problems, never needed maintenance service except for oil service, only changed air filter and spark plugs.
The EGR valve on my 2010 2.4L Accord is literally visible as soon as you pop the hood. I was shocked. I pass on replacing one on my ‘85 pathfinder after removing the entire intake on my Volvo 940 to replace the oil trap.
Excellent engine, definitely one of the best ever built. Running smooth, no matter if at low or high revs, true reliability for many many miles. No plastic crap.
My 2006 Accord gave me 380,000 hard miles of use. No telling how many miles I could have gotten had I driven it easier and been more maintenance focused.
I have an '08 with 150k miles and owned since it had 25k miles. The car has been great and I was thinking about buying a newer car but then decided to spend money on maintenance this year to keep the car going another few years. I also bought a lot of new tools to work on everything from suspension to engine parts. I still have a couple of DIY projects to do but if the car last me at least another 3-5 years with minimal maintenance I would be very happy while I continue to save for a new car. I haven't decided if I want another Accord or something nicer like an Acura.
@@speedkar99 . Yes I know. But my car has been paid off for about 5 years and I drive very little - maybe 5k miles per year. I just need the car to hang on another 10-20k miles while I continue saving. The way I see it a new car is going to cost me $400+ per month which is roughly $5k per year. As long as my maintenance expenses are well below that threshold I still come out ahead. I've had a good run in this car (owned it since 2009 at 25k miles).
I think this is the engine that’s in my 08 Honda crv 2.4l and it’s been so reliable- I mean like rock solid reliable, though it does burn some oil but I just top it off once every two or three months depending on how much I drive. My crv currently just turned over to 196,455 miles 👌🏻
Easiest engine I've ever worked on 🤷🏽♂️ It's pretty straightforward and decently engineered . Everything you need to know is in the Honda factory service manual from 0-? A-Z
IMO honda makes the best automobile engines in the world. They have been kinda blowing it lately tho, I really hate the new engines using plastic intake manifolds.
funny enough i don't think that's particularly new, my 03 CRV has a plastic intake, and that was made only 1 or 2 years after the K series was introduced
Honda calls the part at 5:30 the "Fuel Injector Air Assist Control Solenoid Valve". My understanding is it is a shortcut for the air to take when cold starting and then idling (to avoid a stall). Oftentimes aftermarket plugs that path off. I only know because I had to search for hours trying to find what it's called to replace mine a few days ago.
Very cool. I feel like taking my engine apart again after watching this video. I want to check valve clearances and compression. I did a rebuild last year (valve lapping and seals, piston rings and honed cylinders). Never done anything like that before. I figure it should be broken in by now. Anything else I should look for while I got it in the garage?
