My YJ, that I had owned for 25 years, became increasingly hard to start. The symptoms struck me as a failing starter (slow prolonged crank, clicks, etc), one day when I was about 5 miles from home, it finally would just click. Towed it home and was removing the starter for a core deposit and for reference to a new starter at the parts store. I noticed the contact/mounting surfaces were very oxidized, so I cleaned the mating surfaces, bolts, and terminals ...started right up after remounting and has been fine 5 years since!!! Recently had the same problem with my D21 Nissan truck (smarter now), cleaned all the ground straps (starter has a dedicated ground strap) and all was fine!!! Reduced ground = higher resistance = reduced current.
Recently found you, Dave, and really appreciate your stuff. I am new to Jeeps. I found an old “barn find” 1995 YJ for $800 and got it running with a new ECU and fuel pump - and I’m hooked!! I have a goal of someday rebuilding an engine and have been slowly building up my confidence - and your videos have really helped me see that I could do it.
I am going thru the same problem. New fuel pump and hoses. New fuel filter. Cleaned the throttle body. Either started four three seconds. I will clean the grounds today and try again. Great video, thank you guys!
Never guess about the timing. set it right the first time and forget it. #1 TDC compression. Then set oil pump to 11 oclock (12 is the valve cover, passenger fender is 6) Then set distributor in hole with lock down tang facing 1 oclock. lower slowly and it should line up with lockdown bolt hole AND be pointing at #1 spark plug on the cap. will start every time.
Dale, I’m really at a loss with my ‘93 2.5L. No start. New battery, new everything and I mean everything electrical except for the ignition switch, which I’ll replace this weekend. Turn key forward, I get the brake and engine light telling me the ECU is communicating. Fuel pump primes, check. Grounds, clean and tight. Relays and fuses, all checkout. No crank. Never, a crank. I skipped the ignition sequence and jumped the starter and solenoid with a screwdriver… YJ started for the first time in 2.5 years and test drove it, wow!! So now I know my starter is good and engine is solid… but it won’t turn over with the key. I can’t find anyone in the forums or videos with my problem. Some say ignition switch, some say ignition mechanism (mine pushes the rod so that seems good). I did find a random grounding cable, 4 or 6 gauge, has a single plug on the end like an antenna plug would fit into it, and a grounding terminal on the other end. I can’t remember where that goes. It was in the back of my YJ for the past couple years with my old under dash wiring harness, but I saw nothing like that on the new underdogs/engine bay harnesses. So, if that’s my issue, I feel freaking lost because I can’t find where it would go. I removed it like I said in 2018, so I don’t remember 😭
I had the same issue with my 90 yj and found that a body ground and engine ground fixed it. Took off the engine ground and wouldn’t work so I put it back on and worked. Sounds like you have the same issue I had.
My 92 YJ just stopped dead while on the trail, like the fuel pump stopped working. I listened for it to hum to prime, but nothing. Assuming that was the issue, I had it trailered home, changed fuel pump, still no start, scratching my head, no spark, so I changed the coil, the ignition pick-up coil in the distributor, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, CPS, checked fuses and relays all good. SO moving on to other troubleshooting. Narrowed down that it had to be the ECU. The Jeepers Den here in Orlando had a few for me to try, though they all had different ECU numbers, a couple of them got the fuel pump to prime, but no spark and couple did nothing. Figured that is the problem, so I had sent my original out for service to replace capacitors or whatever they do, got it back, STILL no spark or communication with the fuel pump. I tried the borrowed ECU from the shop and again it activates the fuel pump but as figured no spark no start. So now reaching out the the company who did the service on my original ECU to see what they did or did not do with the repair on the ECU. I think IF the ECU it will send the signal to prime and fire. Anyone have similar issue? and remedy? am I on the right track? Thanks for any inputs.
This one morning recently I had a no start on my xj which was surprising considering the battery starter and alternator had all been replaced within the last year. Installed a new starter and boom I thought I was good cause the jeep started. Turn it off. Back on. No start. Hours of trying to find out why. TIL I disconnected the battery then reconnected. Boom. Never happened again. Probably grounds. Hasn’t happened again since tho, might as well upgrade my cables and clean my grounds though lol
@@pvtimberfaller I thought so too, but I replaced everything connected to belt (Complete overhaul). Turns out... I didn't have the power steering pulley fully seated! Tightened that down and the squeal went away.
Try this Dale, Turn your key to get the fuel pump going then wait till it builds pressure. Turn key back off then on again like you did the first time for about 15 seconds or so, then start it. See if it starts any better ? If it does it's a weak fuel pump, clogged filter. Yes I know you checked the flow already. Actually I thought it started pretty good on this vid. ? The spark plugs might be shot from so much fuel going into cylinder because it took so long to get it running also ? Maybe pull them & look at them, to see how they look. I'M HAPPY YOU GOT IT STARTED, I KNOW THE FEELING WHEN YOU BUILD AN ENGINE YOURSELF & IT STARTS UP FOR THE FIRST TIME.
I have a Jeep 2008 Wrangler six cylinder. My wife went out to start it one morning. The windshield wipers came on the dash lights all lit up but nothing. There was no sound from any part of the vehicle. So I bought a battery to replace the one in the vehicle, when I went to connect the battery the green wire burnt through all the way the horn came and there were sparks at the battery connection. That is I hooked up the positive and tried to connect the ground and that what I got, a burnt green wire, the horn and sparks at the ground on the battery? I have never seen anything like that before. I have only had this Jeep a short time and never owned a Jeep or a Chrysler vehicle.
I was able to get rid of my belt squeak by aligning the power steering pulley better. Check to see how the belt is riding on the fan pulley. If it is trying to create a new area to rub, that may be where the squeak is coming from. Try to reposition the power steering pulley to get the belt to align better. It was hard to tell if the squeak was rpm dependent. This worked for me,.....but may not be the issue. Could the belt be a little loose?
Question. I have a 1990 Jeep wrangler yj. I recently towed it behind my truck about 30 miles. I saw some posts about towing a jeep behind a car with a tow bar. Many of them said to put the transmission in 5th gear. So I did. After I dropped it off at my buddys land. I started it and drove it to park it. I came back a week later, tried to start it and just a loud fast clicking noise from the starter. So we swapped out the battery and same thing. So we pushed by hand the jeep down hill and popped the clutch and it started. Drove it around just fine. Turned it off and still loud clicking noise. So I towed it back home in neutral this time and pulled the starter to be tested. Its tested just fine with the machine at Autozone. Mind you, it wasn't an under pressure test, just to see if the the bendex engaged. I put the starter back on, and same thing, loud clicking noise from starter. So I think that its not spinning the flywheel. Something happened during towing. Even though it drove fine when once we push started it. The flywheel didn't look to be missing any teeth. Any ideas would be great.
That’s super weird. Starter shouldn’t be engaged, and probably wasn’t at all, with the flywheel when it was going down the road. Push start and started fine. Could be starter isn’t getting enough juice. Just enough to click the solenoid, but not turn it over. Maybe wiring on starter. Or bad ground. I’d test voltage at the starter.
Hi Dale... I was really guessing it was the fuel pressure regulator. I was having similar issues with my Jeep and replaced the fuel pressure regulator and it worked great! Oh well sounds like a ground issue, thanks for sharing!
Congratulations Dale !! I think it was a ground problem and of course the timing was off . I cant wait until your next video , I really enjoyed this build series . Until next time take care .
Hey buddy, me again. So I changed out the Starter and new starter relay. Still getting the rapid fire machine gun ticking noise when turning the key. Battery is good. I think that the starter gear isn't engaging the flywheel. As if the teeth aren't lining up. If I push the jeep back a few feet will it move the flywheel? Just curious if you may know. thanks.
If it’s in gear the flywheel will turn. But hard to do. I’d put it in neutral with engine off and try turning the crank with a wrench from the nut on front of crank pulley. Clockwise. Hard to turn, but can be done with wrench 👍
I have a 1993 jeep wrangler yj 2.5l 4cyl and it doesn’t click turn over or anything. I put jumper cables in my daily and tried it and still nothing, any idea what it might be?
Big fan of your videos and thought I'd throw in a non related comment, LOL. I have a 1997 Wrangler TJ that I'm rebuilding. Frustrated with Death Wobble and replaced track bar with new after replacing all the other front end components, upper lower ball joints, steering stabilizer etc... to my horror death wobble remained. Finally tracked it down to the casting on the driver side, was wallowed out from the old worn track bar not allowing the new to seat. New track bar purchase with taper inserts to take up slop in worn casting....problem solved.
I’m thinking maybe kinda bad injector spray, and maybe plugs fouled by assembly lubes an excess fuel till the plugs could heat up and clean up a bit. Ooooh scrub plugs and do the 12v pump thing for injectors with injector cleaner. See if it fires up faster also belt tension can cause squeaks suuuuuuper tight like near 100 ftlbs or something.
I have a 97 Jeep Wrangler tj and the lights and dash light up but the belt won’t turn over and it won’t start up. Do u have any suggestions I could do?
I've had this happen, that's how I know. At 3:07 you are taking the volt reading from the battery. NOW, take a reading from the connectors. If the connectors are loose or worn you won't get the 12 volt reading. Big difference reading between the battery terminals and the attached connectors. When I saw that part of the video I wanted to say something; but, I forgot. Happened after I rebuilt my MJ engine - that's how I know.
At 12:30 now that I've seen more of the video, I think it was a combination of grounds and a weak battery from the beginning. When I read the comments about check your timing I cringed HARD. Then you started second-guessing yourself and messing with the timing. Following up on my previous comment, you may have also had a loose battery connection; which is why you test both the terminals and connectors at the battery. Do a video on that. Before messing with the timing, I would have done the starter fluid or even squirt bottle with gas. Take an old gear oil bottle (kinda like a mustard bottle) with gas and squirt it into the intake and that's how you give it gas to try and purge it. You definitely had air in the fuel injector rail and once you get all of the air out, it starts to run better. Some injectors get fuel and others air and it can take up to 10 seconds of running before you finally get all of the air out. But yeah, next time, don't second guess your timing calculations.
Squeaky belt - put some motor oil on the belt with a paper towel and then clean as much of the oil off. Start it-stop it. Reapply. You may have to do this 6 or 7 times to get the squeaks off.
I wouldn't touch the fuel injectors. Run a tank or two before messing with the fuel injectors. Run a bottle of Techron in one of your tanks of gas. The injectors just need exercising and I thought you cleaned them when you had them out; so, the Techron to clean the tank itself, if nothing else.
Haha! Awesome. Thank you for the tips. Looks like a ground issue may have been a big part of it. Still more to do. Thanks for the advice! 👍Will look into it more .
Dale, I am somewhat new to jeeps as well. I got into your channel after I inherited my dad's '89 YJ Islander after his passing. It runs, but there are issues with bad light switches, bad fuses, manifold and starting issues that i want to address, b/c it always takes 5-6 cranks when cold starting. I was able to do small disassembled and replacement on switches and fuses, but am hesitant to go much further on my own. Are you planning on doing any paint work or aesthetic mods to the 92?
I have a problem with mine not wanting to continue running. It will turn over and start but as soon as I let go of the ignition it cuts off any suggestions?
Until you got to the punchline, my thoughts initially were Ground or your ignition switch was wired wrong so you only got 12v to the coil when you had the switch in the Start position. Here’s a solid tip for everyone concerning Grounding on older vehicles. I learned this nearly 40 years ago. I rebuilt the engine in my 1970 Ford Bronco with a 302. I had it all buttoned up and ready to start, good battery, etc. When it turned over, it was slow and strained like the battery was dead. I smoked the positive cable from the solenoid to the starter. My dad contacted this old timer who hand built custom starters and alternators. He was an automotive electrician who knew everything. He came over to my garage, hooked up a voltage meter and checked resistance. He said confidently and no big deal casually, “you just need a couple of grounds”. This was his formula. 3 grounds. - Battery to Engine. - Battery to Body. Engine to Body. We made up 3 ground cables. 2 custom length cables for the battery to body and engine to body. The third replaced the positive I burned up. First try, the engine turned over like butter. I kept it for another 5 years and it started with just a flick of the key like it had endless voltage. I recommend adding those 2 additional ground cables. They will eliminate most all the resistance your starting ground has.
Question besides running oil with zink in it what is your engine break in procedure after running at 2500 rpm for 25min of course how do you driver it,
My 94 has a slow start too, but not always. I did clean the injectors, replaced filters and o-rings, and while that did help with power, it didn’t fix the slow start. I’m interested in hearing if you have issues with it further.
dude on the left looks like he'd kill you. lol. I'm getting ready to pull my tank and do the pump and start my journey at 106K she's due anyway but I'm hoping it's just the pump.
Some of the symptoms you where having are brain related. The capacitors go bad in the brain. The caps. are 220uf 25v, but it's recommend to use 220uf 35v. Look for the video "yj brain surgery" anyways cool build
I recently had to replace the distributor in my 93 Sahara, I have the rotor lined up with #1 cylinder with engine tdc but now I have to hold gas pedal down to get it to start and then it idles pretty good and has good power on the bottom end but lost power up top so it doesn't have any power in 5th gear now. Also starts cutting out and popping through the exhaust at around 2500 rpm. Am I off by maybe 1 tooth on the cam drive gear? I hate that we can't turn the distributor on these to fine tune them
I Snow Plow with my87 YJ...I live in CT...I have a High Output alternator, 150amp...Extra Lights,,...First thing I did was run a cable from Pos. on battery, right to solenoid.,. Nothing...I Hate Jeeps!!....They Are Built Like Shit!!!.....After doing my drive way and a couple of neighbors, I was off to my brothers house....Half mile down the road, it Dies...It was Ignition Switch Connector???
