Just replaced the electric motor on my 2002 4Runner. This video was a huge help. For anyone wondering: Though it is difficult, it is possible to do without removing the entire module.
I came across this looking to help a forum member that is having an ABS issue. Great explanation, calming voice, yet I didn't fall asleep watching. Thank you putting this info out there for us shade tree mechanics.
Thanks for this insight into the Toyota ABS system, debunking the 'Mystery' that prevents home DIY repairs on the braking system, will save so many people a lot of money, Cheers
Hi there. I’m in Australia and have just experienced a super dangerous situation with my 2005 Toyota UZJ100 Land Cruiser. That exact same thing happened to my motor and without warning. It has only 124000kms on he clock. I renewed the complete brake master cylinder ABS assembly.Thanks for sharing your explanation.
Thank you so much for explaining this I thought I got a bad motor because it would cycle here and there but you are very detailed in what it does. Thank you again 👍
Thanks so much as you rightly said the brake master cylinder have the rear Wheels and the front wheels but some times the front wheels will supply brake fluid while the rear will not supply brake fluid at all
I made a stupid mistake and reversed the polarity on some jumper cables. Now my ABS is not working and getting the noise. This video is very informative.
Nice overview of braking system. I just changed motor and accumulator assembly in my 4Runner. I used painters tape to secure nuts to socket for the firewall mount. Makes threading easy. I used forceps to insert brake pedal pin. For bleeding, suggest pressing brake pedal while releasing lines. This pressurizes lines. For 4Runners, this job can be done without removing dashboard knee panel.
Thanks. This is good to know that you can remove just the solenoid and replace it instead of removing the whole ABS unit from the firewall. Should add a parts list on the video description too.
just got through changing out the ABS motor- thanks to you I saved about $4,000- not having to listen to the dealership. One question- HOW THE HECK DO I RESET THE ALARM!!!!!!!!!
Thank you so much for this video. I think i will be able to fix mine. Just got quoted 2200.00 by mechanic. Looking forward to working on it. I will contribute to you channel. Thank you. I knew this could be fixed. Mine had noise for a long time, then Yesterday a non-stop whistle type noise, brakes FAILED on the road. I was lucky. PLEASE FIX THIS ASAP when you start hearing the noises. YOU CAN GET INTO A REALLY BAD ACCIDENT WITH NO BRAKES.
Hi there. Great video, thanks for the detailed explanation and breakdown. I would really appreciate the link to purchase the parts to refurbish the motor as I'll need to undergo this process on my unit that keens losing pressure. Thank you!
Mate thanks for the info you share 😉 i have a 2014 Prius C with separate module and pump 😬 i can still do what you do with the pump? I’m thinking maybe pump problem due to noise on the pump i saw on other video that you gonna replace both of them 😬 any advice 😉 thanks in advance 😉
Thanks for the video. I ordered a motor from Ebay and replaced it on my sons GS300. I ran out of time for the night and only bled fluid at the accumulator not the wheels. Took for a short test drive and I’m getting a noise under the car that almost sounds like gears thumping or slipping. I’m hoping that bleeding at the wheels will make it go away but we’ll see
Thank you for the great video, I do not have any error codes or any problem when braking, but when I step very hard on the brake pedal of my 2011 Camry hybrid I hear the noise that is described by the dealership as ABS pump failure trying to accumulate pressure. I purchased a refurbished ABS assembly to install it myself but the noise disappeared for some reason, do I need to worry? this is my son's car. Thanks
Will pressure bleeders work on this type of system for changing brake fluid front and rear? I know you can use the motor to bleed the rears, but trying to see if a pressure bleeder will work as well to save some wear and tear on the motor.
I found on my 2002 Lexus GS300 that I could not remove the motor while the ABS assembly was in the vehicle. The replacment motor arrived with a new cable, so I ended up disconnecting the opposite end of the cable as done in the video. The problem is that I did not label which terminal the red and black wires go to for the new motor. If you still have your ABS assembly, are you able to provide a photo showing which terminal each color wire goes to?
Can you explain how to fix 2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser . Only two error codes were stored: C1241 and C1452. No ABS light stays on the dashboard when drive. Accumulator sensor voltage in range between 3.4 to 4.7 and change when pump operated
Hi I had a question?….I have a 2006 gs430 and I’m getting break pressure to 3 wheels but not the 4 it’s the rear driver side is there a way to fix that or rebuild it if do I have to get another to replace it?….thank you
@DadsGotADeal are you saying you should bleed the brakes on the assembly before reinstall or can you just bleed the breaks normally once the whole unit is reinstalled back in the engine bay?
I hope the actuator motor is able to come off of my LS460 without having to remove the entire unit and hopefully be able to find one new or used because I don't have Toyota Techstream software to bleed the unit and my local dealer wants $2200 to replace the unit.
Nice writeup. Insightful material here. I have a Lexus GS and 4Runner V8 both with this design. Given their ages, I know it's just a matter of time until I have to repair. On the older GS models the failure rates are all but guaranteed at higher mileage. Seems slight improvements were made and in 02+ models, life was a little longer. Curious if you know how compatible these pumps across the different Toyota models. For example would my 4runner motor work on my GS and vice versa?
How’s it going. Sorry I missed this comment. The electric motors are compatible between Toyota’s and Lexus from 2003 and back. Not sure what year going forward they switched to a three bolt electric motor.
I have a 2006 Tacoma. I have the electronic brake system. I don’t have any lights on the dash but it seems like I have to push harder than normal to stop the truck? It’s like it lacks boost? I can lock he tires up but it take more foot pressure than it should? I do hear what sounds like the motor when I start the truck and have my foot on the brake………..Could it be that motor is going bad or is that just the way it was designed?
I have 2003 4Runner V6.0 and is it possible to just remove and replace the motor while the ABS system still attached to the car without the hassle of disconnect the brake lines?
I have a JZS147 Aristo that’s got the brake light stuck on and everytime I pump the pedal the pump whines more often than it should, topping up brake fluid has sometimes made the light go away but I am assuming I’m low on nitrogen
Hi My 2007 RX 350 brake padel sink down, the master cylinder was changed two times still same issue, Can I remove ABS fuses to see if it works with out it? Thanks
Have done it on my Prado 120 too. It's a pain in the ass to take the motor out without removing the whole unit. After 2 h Ive done it and now I can give the motor to the specialist
My Lexus GS300 model 2000 last week I change the rear brake pads but I having bruzz Sound on Abs motor and some time my brake padel hard brakes not work some time it’s working
Hello my abs failed on my 2007 FJ what's the best way for me to diagnose it or machine to diagnose it to pinpoint the real problem. The back tire differentials are on also you know the red light Axle sticks. When I turn under 5 miles an hour it skids. Thanks
no forum even considered this option - bought the motor off of Amazon for $68- spent an hour on pulling/replacing - another hour bleeding the system and saved -thousands$$$ Thanks again for taking the time - BTW, actually took the cap off of the motor and found only one contact still hanging on! 2002 Toyota 4runner 287k miles
I have a 2009 tacoma with the same system , but my truck hen im applying the brakes slowly and with out pressing the perdal hard it brakes on me real hard can you help me if is the motor need to be replace thenks in advance
Great video! Just what i was looking for. I have 01 4Runner. Hard brake tubing leaked at frame rail causing fluid to drain completely. Replaced/patched new section and bleed brakes. Able to get good brake pedal pressure to wheels but ABS light and buzzer still on. Drove several times and slammed on brakes with without fixing ABS warning light. Can there still be air within this area and still have decent brake pressure? Should i be looking into other areas to diagnose the ABS warning light and buzzer? With ignition on, i hear the pump turning on and off approximately every 15-20 seconds. Pump runs for a short period and cut off repeatedly. Any help pointing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again fir an excellant video.
Maybe you need a Scan Tool to cancel the ABS light. Might try disconnecting the battery for a short period. My mechanic canceled mine( 100series) with his Scan Tool.
please can some help i got a problem with same unit,the preasure from all system does not drops back,so it holds on all 4 wheels is that master cilynder or some valve or what,cozz i change all pistons gummies cilynders on brake calibers,same shit
Other things can cause the Master Cylinder, ABS, Booster to fail. I think the accumulator can also leak..... I have had 2 fail. Its makes a squeaking/chirping sounds.
Hello mate, thank you for the Info, I'm in Australia, I have a 2000 toyota prado that has same abs brake set up in this video, all abs traction control ights come on dash when start car and beeps, the pressure tube above makes a weird noise off and on also, I have a small video of it would love for you to give some advice on prob if same as you done.....
My gx470 is getting codes c1340 c1256 c1236 c1223 c0205 c0200 All indicating master cylinder, brakes are getting lock up here and there, should I replace the whole system or is the motor causing this? Thank you
Hey, great video.... Thanks. I really need some help: I replaced the motor and it worked for some days, today I felt that the motor is working more time than usual and I have the beep alarm on the dash, what should I do? Thanks again.
The Pajero uses exactly the same system, the motor can't be bought separately. You have to replace the entire system at the same price as a used pajero. I also removed the motor and had it rebuild by an auto electrician.
Had your exact explanation happen to me today, car is now at mechanic and I’m expecting a huge bill. This seems pretty challenging, is there a lot of ways someone could mess this up?
My 2001 4Runner v6 brake pedal sinks when I press softly. If I press harder it holds. What would cause that? It has the same ABS assembly as you showed in this great video.
Answering my own comment: I’m reading that the cup seals or bore in the master cylinder may be worn. Can that be rebuilt, or is a replacement recommended?
@@michaelcampana3357 So on my 2007 FJ cruiser I have to depress the brake pedal down hard to stop, the pedal at this point is near the floor. I replaced the rear calipers, pads and rotors ( first time replacing them since new) Bleed the entire brake system and the same issue exists, pedal near to the floor to stop. It seems the rear brakes are not working. The pump appears to be in working order, no codes or weird noises from the pump assembly. I removed the brake booster unit and order the master cylinder piston off of ebay with the hope it fixes my sinking pedal. After uprooting the fluid reservoir one of the 3 cup seals has a little corrosion around it so will be ordering new one and also order a new pressure tank. I'll follow up after the rebuild...
There can be another type of failure - internal high pressure switch. Motor is ok, but it pumps the brake fluid for a long time and pressure is getting dropped because high pressure switch does not cut off the motor.
Adding to the question. I have a Prado LC120 with this type of fault. Sometimes the motor is pumping,sometimes not. O was long way from home with no mechanich on the way that could fix this,so I used a thin iron pole to knuck on the motor in order to make it work. Got to home but still haven fixed the problem. After much of reading I decided to order the repair kit from UK,even before dissasembling all,because the mechanics in my town are all on vacation. So I risked 130GPB and ordered the kit to try and save time. I just hope that it will not be the hogh pressure valve,or I thrown away that money and still didn't fix the problem. Soooo,how the check if the valve is bad???
@@pretekaomne9210 I’m sorry but master cylinder repair kit fixes only pedal pressing issue - when you press brake pedal and hold it - your truck may stop for a while and then continue moving, regardless you holding brake pedal. But it will not solve motor / pump / high pressure switch issue. I’ve passed through this already
Now I see that I didn't write that I ordered the brake booster electric motor repair kit, so if it's the electric motor fault-I should solve it. But if it's something else.... One more thing-when the motor of the pump worked-I heard 2 times pumping for 4-5 sec when I turn the contact switch. That makes the brake pedal go down and become softer,as it should be. Also the beeping and error lights go down and I can drive normaly. But eventually,when I use the brake a couple of times-the sound goes on again,so do the error lights and the brake pedal goes stiff. Is it enough to conclude that the motor has some dead angle where it won't start turning and pumping?
