Why You Should NOT Do Epoxy Resin Countertops [Do THIS Instead] 

MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. ru-vid.comUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo

Four words: Stone Coat Countertops Tutorials. First, I saw RU-vidrs do it the way you would use normal resin for an art project. THEN, I watched Stone Coat Countertops videos that showed the CORRECT way to install an epoxy countertop. I am so glad that I found their videos before I attempted to take on this project.

Refreshing to see someone share fails so honestly. I struggle with my failures and it's nice to actually see that I am not alone.

I have been remodeling homes for over 30 years now. One thing that I can tell you, is that we all fail, all the time. And through our failures, we learn what DOESN"T work. I fix a lot of stuff that is screwed up by another person's failure, or simply because of normal wear and tear. Sometimes I just stand there and scratch my head wondering what I'm going to do to make it right. But when I'm in that situation, the first things that come to mind are: I know for sure this or that won't work because I've tried it before and it failed. So over time, we learn through trial and error what definitely won't work. And that leads us on a path to explore other options. That's how we learn the most important lesson: MATERIAL & METHODS. But through our failures, come great success.

We learned more from this “fail” than if you had covered up your mistake and let is believe everything turned out perfectly. I have more respect for you as a result. Thank you and keep on trying new stuff. We learn a lot, good or bad.

Plywood is the improper substrate for epoxy resin counter pour. MDF is recommended. The nature of plywood is that it contains air within the layers ( it breathes) where as HIGH DENSITY FIBERBOARD does not. The proper term is Epoxy Resin System. The goal is a chemical reaction. In order for that reaction to be predictable the components must work together. I suspect the primer used was not "part" of the recommendation system and was incompatible for this purpose. To prevent the accumulation of dirt, dust, hair and bugs during the curing process it is recommended to "tent" the project. There are portable painting booth tents that can be modified for this purpose. Unevenly coated edges are the result of improperly prepared substrate. Epoxy is self leveling, however the chemical structure cause ERS to build or pool at 90° edges. The raw edges of the substrate are highly porous and must be sealed with a Bondo type material, sanded smooth and slightly rounded at the 90° corner with a sander. A " tape dam" needs to be create under the edges to "hold" the epoxy on the vertical edge longer. This "tape dam" extends out away from the substrate as well as under it. Edges are coated last as the ERS begins to setup allowing for better adhesion and coverage. The torching is necessary because of the fast high heat, not carbon dioxide to release air bubbles. The heat allows ERS to thin, releasing the air. When this is understood, then it explains why other method do not work such as heat guns and lighters are not applicable. The honed finish is accomplished through speciality products as well as some sanding. There most likely was not enough material on your board due to improper preparation, so the material was sanded through much like sanding through veneer. MDF would have eliminated the unevenness of of the substrate as well. There are a level of complaints of staining on ERS counter, especially lighter colors. First, it is not recommended to prep food directly on ERS. It has been documented that heat can also discolor ERS. In this case though, as there was never a "system" created then the fact that it didn't perform well is to be expected. This experience really demonstrates the need for lots of research when undertaking such a project. The problem is two fold. People watch a few RU-vid videos and think "easy". They do not do research or if they do, they modify the process without understanding how ERS works; its chemical nature. Epoxy Resin Systems are a chemical reaction. In order for that reaction to be predictable (desirable) exactness must be adhered to. Measuring accurately, timing, compatibility with all components, proper tools, all matter. Because the process was not done correctly, the end product was not an epoxy resin product and cannot be evaluated as such.

The red stains after sanding is the blood from the bugs that were embedded in the epoxy. The white shiny spots are the white paint you put over the bugs in the epoxy that you sanded down. The reason your countertops stained is because you have to seal the sanded epoxy with another thinner coat of epoxy, because the sanded epoxy is porous after you sanded it.

Love your video and your honesty. We are about to go down this path for kitchen countertops. The concerns you raised, along with the comments recommending Stone Coat Countertop videos have informed me for moving forward. It is not easy to talk about our failures, but I am sure you have saved many people time, money and frustration by sharing your experience.

I found this video quite refreshing tbh, I haven't seen many people post their fails and try to find the reasons for it. Chiefly because they dont wish to appear inexperienced or look silly. I like people that are honest and prepared to put themselves and their reputation on the line in the hope that others won't make the same mistakes. I like people that keep it real, for this reason and a bunch of others I have subscribed.

Many of the other people have said pretty much what I would like to say to you. One thing that I didn’t see in a few comments that I took the time to read is that you should have built up a barrier along the sides of the countertop using wide painters’ tape. Go around the entire edge at least twice, making sure it gets a little stiff and making sure you have good adherence, especially at the corners. Then when you do your pour, you’re initially NOT letting the epoxy run off the sides; you’re “forcing” the epoxy to build up in thickness on the top, which would have allowed the self-leveling of the epoxy to actually work, to overcome any inconsistencies in the plywood substrate. Then, once that starts to get a little thick you can carefully remove the tape to allow what is truly excess to start coming down the sides. You can help that along with either a paint stick or a plastic squeegee or something to make sure that you’ll get total and even coverage on the sides without losing the thickness and smoothness on the top. I thought the tape on the underside of the counter was an interesting solution to try to help avoid the bubbles on the bottom that many end up getting and then need to sand away. It’s an interesting solution, but I did also see one of the other commenters mention that you can end up pulling the epoxy off the sides when pulling the tape. If you really wanted to try that I would suggest not placing the tape all way to the edge of the underside-leave about 1/8" of the underside exposed. When pulling the tape, pull downward so as not to put stress on the epoxy. However, another way to avoid having that problem on the underside would be to consistently watch the curing and to periodically scrape any epoxy from the underside as it is setting up, until you no longer have any buildup forming. Then you will have a nicely sealed edge and no sanding of the underside. As far as the sanding for honing, I don’t know what kind of epoxy you used and perhaps it was a lesser quality so that, in fact, you did kind of “open up the pores” which allowed for staining to happen. I believe that it is Stone Coat that has the Ultimate Top Coat product that you use after your flood coat that will give you the finish you were looking for without compromising the integrity of the surface and you would not have to do it by sanding. Good luck with your next attempt.

Omg- THANK YOU x1000 !!! I get so sick of watching tutorial videos that are edited to make projects look super easy and fun but in reality are extremely difficult. I'm glad not everyone is fake! I've watched 20 videos on this subject and not one other video mentioned potential staining, the thought of which makes me cringe. You are my hero of the day bc you saved me!

11:22 if you don't want a glossy finish, then you should apply a matte topcoat. Sanding and then applying a top coat will also eliminate any dust or foreign particles in the epoxy. It'll also help stop staining.

Sanding the counter takes away any stain resistance , there’s a topcoat that has a matte finish. Also remember epoxy isn’t just a diy easy to do, you need to special order epoxy online that is good quality. There’s also topcoats that have more durability for people who need it. Everything you did was basically wrong but it’s what’s expected for first time. Alsways practice on a small sample or something first.

Success comes with lots of failures and learning from them. kudos to you for taking it on Keep doing what your doing you have a healthy attitude and approach. I’m a professional contractor and tackled just about everything for the last 33 years And I’m still learning cheers Dave

Built and did my first epoxy counter tops with my son last week, and following all manufacturers instructions and some research on youtube, had results that exceeded my expectations! I can't wait do my next pour.

I have watched many Stone Coat Countertop videos. Always watching how they handle "mistakes". And, yes, they do Grade AA work everytime. That said, this young DIYer did a great job of pointing out her mistakes and how she handled them! My single advice: Do a test piece first and figure out what YOUR mistakes are.

I understand why some peeps are bashing in these comments. I cringed more than once while watching but in the end I have to give you some big credit for sticking with it and eventually even going back and redoing the whole thing with Poly. I never get Poly to not look shiny even if I use matte or satin or whatever. It always looks plastic so I hope yours came out to your liking. In the end I applaud you for making the video and going through all the work you did. These people talking about StoneCoat videos ... that guy makes it look easy and fun. Your video is more realistic.

When sanding you created small areas where staining agents can get trapped. In terms of sanding, anything over 320grit requires wet sanding. If you want to avoid stains, you need to go to at least 1500 grit. And you need to seal it afterwards with either a wax or a specialized product.

Melissa! Thank you for your video. I'm a 71-yr-old DIYer who purchased an "as-is" mobile home (first home I've ever owned). I've been watching Stonecoat since their beginning and while their newer videos make it look so easy, I think their earlier videos covered a lot more of the basics. I've also wondered whether their hype of their own product was just hype, or truly made a difference. After reading through all of the comments (except the insulting one that you've apparently, and rightfully, deleted), it seems as though Stonecoat does have a superior product. I appreciate that you include your "fails". As one viewer posted, these aren't fails simply because they didn't work. You learned and were able to pass along your experience to the rest of us. I started watching you some time ago on FB and I have never been disappointed. Thank you for sharing all you do!

Oh no! I'm sorry that this happened to you and that it was such a struggle. For those that come here and are worried about now doing your counter tops in resin, here are a few helpful things to do. If you are going to be using resin for counters, tables, walls, etc. Anything functional within your home, always make sure that the material you are working on is is flat. Even if it is self leveling, this can cause some big issues for you later on. Also make sure you use a primer before putting down epoxy. Even if you have painted the surface before hand a good primer is always a good step. Pouring in doors is preferable due to dust and bugs, just make sure you have good ventilation and are using the proper mask and gloves at all times with working with epoxy. Whwn it comes down to what seems to be the biggest downfall of this poor, the stains and durability, I personally have never heard of just sanding down epoxy and leaving it. The reason for this is even though we use our torches to get out bubbles that are seen in the resin, you are still going to have time buts of air within the epoxy. So when you sand this, you are opening those little pockets up to anything that goes on the surface. Now of course you can do the technique still and then coat it. Again with something that won't be so shiny but the easier and more efficient way to make it even would be to use a product meant for this. Stone Coat Countertops actually makes a product that is specifically meant to be a top coat that creates a semi-gloss or satin finish but yet be super durable. You don't have to sand it once it is dry either. It goes on easy and drys quickly and still give you that "natural look instead of the very glossy look you normally get with epoxy. One last tip, always make sure you are using the right kind of 3poxy for counters or tables. So many don't stand up to heat or are not food safe and that isn't what you want at all. These projects can go very well and be gorgeous and last for a long time. As much as it is said that anyone can do it, I still suggest working with epoxy on other small things before doing something of this size and experience level.

I appreciate the honesty...you clearly are a very secure person to have admit this snd tell us all. Not many people admit anything bad

Sorry, but title should read "How NOT to work with epoxy".

I used beyond paint on my countertops, then montana marble spray for a faux marble look. Then I finished it with several layers of the top coat from beyond paint to protect it. Looks pretty good and I'm happy with it. Way cheaper than new counters and much easier than epoxy.

I appreciate reviews that remove all the "everything is always perfect" illusion, and just tells it like it actually was for you.

My epoxy counter tops I did 2 yrs ago still look amazing I would do it again.. I did Stone Coat Countertops

Sounds like you needed to research your project more before starting. I did several very small pours before trying something as big as what you did, in order to see what the outcome would be. I also went into it expecting that I would make lots of stupid mistakes. I had sticky problems, color uncertainties, and even a fire on my tabletop (after misting it with alcohol to get the design I wanted, then torching). And, anytime I had questions, I called the company I bought by materials from and they were glad to help. They also constantly produce more tutorials. I even watch stuff from other companies who do it differently just to know whats going on in the business. I learned that if you do it in the cold, you dont get good results - the hard way. With every little pour that doesnt result in something beautiful, I learned one more thing to avoid next time. For me, epoxy season starts in late March and there are a thousand things I cant wait to try. Hang in there!

You haven't convinced me to not do an epoxy counter. But you have convinced me that I need to do it right. Thanks for listing all of your fails.

We did epoxy on our countertops, followed the instructions to the T, have had *almost* no issues and we love it. You did a lot of strange things that predictably resulted in failure as many of the commenters have pointed out. Epoxy is really DIY friendly you just have to follow the instructions. I will say though, the bug problem is REAL.

I did my kitchen counters, island top and bathroom, I “honed” (sanded) the kitchen and LOVE the way they turned out! I learned from Stonecoat and did many small practice boards before ever attempting the counters. They recommend using MDF not ply board and route ring the edges in order for the epoxy to flow easily to cover the edges. Also good quality epoxy is a MUST, I use Stonecoat and have never been disappointed in the product. Poor results have been my own mistakes. Follow the manufacturer recommendations, every detail matters. Stonecoat recommends waiting about 2 weeks (I believe) before honing (sanding) your project, and actually makes the counters more durable but now they offer a new product called Ultimate Top Coat that gives your project more of a natural stone or satin finish and provides an extra layer of protection saving a ton of time sanding for the same look. Thanks for the video laying out your experience I think it is helpful for some but don’t care for the title as many mistakes were made. I highly ENCOURAGE you and anyone else to check out Stonecoat countertops videos, order their product, follow their recommendations and try a small project and report back to us!!! Thanks for sharing 😊

Wow. I'm not a youtuber with DIY videos - yet my very first project with epoxy was for walnut countertops in our kitchen remodel. I read and followed directions - perfect results (total elapsed time 48 hours, allowing for two coats to cure). My take is that this isn't very hard, not as hard as this video implies.

We did all of our kitchen counters and backsplashes with epoxy and it turned out great. I would recommend it if you want beautiful, durable countertops.

Thank you for this video. I'm in the beginning stages of starting my own business. I'm a 51 year old woman who is tired of working for other people & I'm concentrating on my retirement. I've always worked for myself making SIDE money, but never cut ties with my job to make it my primary source of income. In my heart & soul I know I'm going to do very well. Positivity is key!! I'm planning to keep my inventory down to ONLY the things I know will be popular and sale in my area to begin with. Then the expansion will come when I feel confident that we can go out, start and finish these jobs (countertops) like we've been doing them our whole lives. I think the "Do's and Don't" videos are so important to learn from others. Even reading the comments are informative. Thanks again for taking the time to make these type videos.

In regards to the uneven edges, you can epoxy all of the edges with your brush before your pour begins to fall over. Being wet breaks that surface tension that's usually created when the epoxy hits the dry surface. It flows down SO quick and leaves smooth flawless edges :)

I appreciate your video. Your honesty is admirable. As an epoxy professional, I have to say that most of your problems are from the particular epoxy that you used. I have so many counter tops out there all over Arizona. None of them have absorbed stains. Some have been sanded and some have not. Some of your other problems are simply due to a lack of experience. These are all easy problems to overcome. I would be happy to coach you through them so that you can have far better results if you would like to try again.

Great video! More people should do this type of video. Most people don't want to admit to making mistakes much less to a complete fail, but we all do them occasionally and explaining those can often save others. I'm no pro, but I've done a dozen or so resin counters, desk tops, etc. My first pour I had some places that resisted the epoxy, stippling you called it. I still don't know what caused it but it has never happened since. It took me till my third pour think to tape the bottom the the counter, after havinng fussed for hours and hours over the drips from the second pour. Don't give up, resin isn't any different than any other skill, experience leads to confidence and those two things and the right tools are the key to a consistent, quality finished product. You've gained some valuable experience, you've gained knowledge and insight, thanks for sharing, now you just need to gain some confidence.

Thank you for this video. This was not a failure. This was an educational course. It becomes a failure if you stop trying to find out what went wrong and why. And yes, an education can be expensive. You did address some reservations I have concerning epoxy resin countertops. I learned much of my kitchen habits while working in small town restaurants and hotel kitchens at a very young age. As a result, I’m not always as careful as I need to be in order to keep countertops in pristine condition. I consider a kitchen to be a food shop. While I certainly want my kitchen to be attractive and welcoming, I need it to be functional and designed to withstand the abuse that food preparation can dole out. Stainless steel is ideal but well beyond my financial limitations. All that said, I don’t understand why laminate countertops (i.e. Formica & Wlisonart) have been shoved aside. They’ve stood the test of time and if anyone hasn’t explored the current colors and patterns available, then looking at them cost nothing.

Refreshing to hear someone on RU-vid that admits they don't know EVERYTHING! I've done several epoxy surface projects and have made almost every mistake myself.

I appreciate you putting this video together. This is a clear case of simple mistakes you can make when you resin. I make tumblers and do epoxy molds on a daily basis. We all experience trial and error as first time epoxy users. A countertop is a huge project for having never used to product before. I know several others have commented on all the things you did wrong and I, too, have to add my 2 cents. Those little spots that didn’t take to the epoxy, that happens in tumblers all the time. Any natural reason can cause this, like unevenness, humidity, etc., but to me it seems like you didn’t have enough epoxy to cover your table. Also, some of that unevenness was likely due to the wood not having a seal coat in it. Wood is porous, and it soaks epoxy into it. Any time you’re using a pour out surface you should paint a thin layer on first, then, after it’s cured, do your first real coat. Very well could have contributed to your empty spots, or, what we tumbler makers call “fish eyes”. If you’ve watched any professional apply epoxy, they move it around, just like an artist doing a dirty pour. You have to give the epoxy it’s path. Also, what many beginners don’t understand about epoxy is that it does shrink some as it cures. Also, typically Part A of the mixture is thicker than part B. It’s not like water, so you should always mix more than you think you will need. Finally, the sanding. I cringed at this part. You almost always wet sand epoxy and definitely with countertops. Most experts put 2 or more layers of polish on after the final sand. You put pores and grooves into your epoxy when you sand it, so, of course it’s going to build up stains. It’s basically an open surface until it’s sealed by another layer of epoxy or the polish. If it makes you feel any better, I’ve awakened to find small gnats or mosquitoes embedded in my tumblers that I’ve left to cure overnight INSIDE. Happens to everyone. It’s a total nightmare to epoxy in the summer, especially in the south. As I said, I’m glad you detailed your entire experience as this is a great way for beginners to learn what worked for you and what didn’t. I won’t say what failed because you learned some things and from the experience. Also, it gives more experienced people the ability to help out and everyone can learn. Epoxy is NOT an easy material to work with. It is trial and error for sure, and for many of us a lot of errors! I still wake up to a cup that looks insane and go, what did I do wrong?? I really hope you try it again and that it works out better for you. Good luck!!

I’m jumping in late to the party, but want to add that the quality of the epoxy is really important. I used Stone Coat Countertops countertop epoxy kit and it is fabulous. Mike has many many tutorials that made the project effortless. Yeah, I made a few mistakes tin the first bathroom that I learned from for the second bathroom. Both bathroom counters still look terrific after three years. I’m going to do my kitchen counters next using a dirty pour and I’m very excited.

I recommend always putting a top coat on epoxy pours ( kinda like you now have done ) we use a Water Based polyurethane that comes in Satin and that gives you another layer of protection and removes the gloss. Epoxies and polyuretanes work best when applied in a controlled atmosphere (low dust, moderate temp and low humidity). I do like your tip on the tape around the bottom edge. Epoxies definitely have learning curve, but can also be alot of fun creating a unique one of kind look. The Stone Coat countertop guys are amazing.

I have done resin for several years. A ton of different things effect your pours. Its best to start small and after you learn the process go large. I love working with resin and the results are amazing. I'm sorry you had a bad experience.

Yikes. I love hearing DIY fails to learn from but it sounds like you just ignored all the rules and are blaming the epoxy. Unsealed countertops will obviously stain.

Thank you for such an honest video. It's so refreshing to find someone who has problems with DIY's, especially from an exprienced DIYer. I have never been brave enough to try using epoxy and I won't now because even though I'm sure I would have a terrible result (Murphy's Law with me, lol), the fact that it absorbs stains is not good either. What a bummer after all your hard work, to find that it holds stains. I found your video to be a breath of fresh air, so thank you so much. ☺

I appreciate your honesty. I recently did an epoxy pour and I can honestly say as an experienced DIYer this was one of the most stressful things I have ever done. I too experienced these holes where the epoxy spread away. I have done this twice and it is still not there. I need to do this again on my kitchen worktops, but I feel scared and terribly defeated, it is so much out of my control. I tile, Imhave replaced glass in windows lay linoleum, carpets decorate tonged and groove work. I do not tackle electrical or plumbing. I am so disheartened. Thank you.🤗👏

This video was probably more helpful than any video that I've watched where the pros did it flawlessly. They all tell you what to do, but they don't tell you what NOT to do. Thank you so much for this perfectly honest video.

If you sand your resin and don’t do anything to seal it afterwards, you will get stains.

I feel like wet sanding and clay baring, would have been super helpful. It sounds like the sanding heated the resin up and opened up a lot of the pores from the first coat. I have seen sealant mentioned in other comments, that was an important step that appears to have been left out. Hopefully the poly acrylic will seal the resin and you won't have to worry about it

With the flood pours I have watched - that were informative and had great end results - they did three useful things: 1. They taped a flood barrier to stop the epoxy from flowing over the edge (using ordinary painters tape doubled up) , until the epoxy was in stickier state, then removed the flood barrier when the epoxy was not flowing quickly, but still flowing. 2. Once the flood barrier was removed, they used gloved hands to spread epoxy on the edges, to get the coverage on the sides more even. 3. They never let the drips or bubbles form. The used a scraper or stick to remove the drips and create a hard edge and this means not leaving the pour to go unattended for too long a period. Coming and removing the drips/bubbles before it hardens. And if you had done a little more research and tried it out on a smaller project, then you would have built up the necessary experience to tackle the larger projects. I do like your tips: - Make sure the base paint is cured before doing the pour. - Do indoors - Add the tape to the underside These were great tips! Also I have seen epoxy pours where they added added color to the epoxy - which means you make the marble effect by pouring white colored epoxy and then adding in some grey/black to get the marble veins. And some even added small drops of gold into it and then used a stirring stick to create gold veins. by adding color to the epoxy it makes the base coat less important. And you are creating the marble effect with the epoxy and I think it might look more marble, than your hand painted marble effect. I would encourage you to trying using colored epoxy and try it on a coffee table and use MDF instead of plywood next time.

The stippling on wood is usually caused by the oils in the wood. One should clean the piece with mineral spirits or alchool before the pour.

I’m 61 yrs old. I’ve done countertops, artwork, casting. I learned from watching Stone Coat Countertops videos. They have had in person training. Artist Till Death & RK3 Designs offer training and always answer questions during their RU-vid “Lives”It’s not hard, you just have to practice first on sample boards till you understand how it works. I wish you would watch some of these people. When you try again, you’ll have a positive outcome. Don’t uses cheap epoxy. Stone Coat is my go to for many, many reasons.

I am more of an artist than a home improver. But what I've learned from the little epoxy I have used is that it is EXTREMELY temper-mental. If something can go wrong, lol, it usually does. Experienced people know how to correct these issues as they go along. I too respect your honesty. There are no mistakes! Even when things go wrong, you learn from them. There is a lot many video's don't tell you about the kind of epoxy, the kind of paint you can use with it, fiberglass, etc. Thanks so much for your video!!!

First of all thank you for sharing your experience. As any level of diyer would tell you though don't blame the materials you blame the handler. I honestly came across your video while looking for ocean countertop ideas for my bathroom. I've watched plenty of videos by Leggari and Stone Coat Countertops to know that you started your whole project off wrong. Please some of the people commenting below aren't trying to be mean but they're telling you where you went wrong. I haven't watched any of your other videos but I hope you check out those two channels and learn the correct way then give it another go because it can be awesome when you finally get it right.

Epoxy resin is awsome. Experience comes from working with the stuff hands on not a video. It looks easy in videos. Dont let your first experience with epoxy discourage you.

Epoxy is awesome to work with. But we all make terrible and costly mistakes. The reason we see alot of video online with amazing work is because even if they fail the first or second time they didn't give up. Practice is the best teacher we can have.

To make sure that the surface is completely covered, use a 1/8" x 1/8" trowel to move the epoxy all over the top, making sure not to leave any dry spots. That makes the layer really thin so you don't waste so much epoxy.

Thanks for doing this video. I was thinking of trying this on my horrible old counters in a 1910 house I bought and trying to make a few little touch ups. You given me a lot to think about. 👍

i have had my epoxy countertops i did myself like 6 years ago and they have held up amazingly, everyone always compliments them. I have put hot pots on them no problem, and yes ive even cut food and no issues yes u can get some scratching but that's on me for not using cutting board. If you didn't want the glossy finish i wouldn't have used epoxy in the first place

I find this informative and honest for a typical diy person like me. I like her communication and thought process. You pro dudes don’t need to feel threatened, we like the process of these projects as much as the finished product. Appreciate the good video content.

What’s so nice about your experience is that it brought a large number of people together to discuss, share and learn from one another! I’ve been deliberating doing my kitchen countertops for over a year now, watching videos and googling information. This one video and comments has finally helped me reach a decision…or at least complete my checklist. Lol. Definitely going with Stone Coat products! I’ve been binge watching their particular videos recently and had been impressed. So comments here definitely have made me comfortable with that decision!! Thank you for posting your experience and to everyone for your comments!!💗

Hi, I enjoyed watching your experience with the resin. This is so helpful. I do have some helpful tips that might it's too late for you because you already polyacrylic the surface. The reason this absorbed all the stains is in fact, as you mentioned, you made it pourous with the sanding. There is this product I discovered a couple of years ago that could help for pretty much every project you do. Odies Oil, is a food safe, all natural mix of oil and hard waxes that fully cures to a hard and waterproof surface. The stuff is expensive but a tiny bit goes a long way, so it's actually a good deal. I think I had a 8 oz container for a couple of years. It's originally intended as a wood finish but it will bond with anything, including concrete, resin, plastic, anything you can think of. The trick that took me a while to learn, was that we tend to use way too much and its waterproofing capacity fails. If you use it right, by just using what you need and buffing it properly to not leave any excess, it becomes fully waterproof/durable and stunning on wood. After a year or so, you can revamp the finish by applying a new coat, just like you would paste wax. I've been using this product now ever since I discovered it and finally learnt how to use it. I absolutely love it. I think that finish would've definitely have kept all those stains from sticking to the surface. I'd love to see you using it in one of your projects in the future. I think the failure definitely came from leaving the pourus surface unprotected. Another successful coat that I made from scratch that is amazing and love it just as much, also fully waterproof is, and seeing your channel I know you'll love. I mixed 4 parts of pure D-limonele, 1 part bees wax, 1 part carnauba wax, 2 parts 100% tung oil (do not buy tung oil finish, only pure tung oil). This full list of products are all food safe so you can put it on a salad bowl or a cutting board. Anyways, I mix all these items in a double boiler, make sure that you put the D-limonele, which is an orange or citrus oil after you turn off the heat and the waxy oily stuff is homogeneously mixed. This citrus oil is essentially citrus turpentine or spirits, so it's volatile and flammable, so there is not need to cook it with the rest. Add it to control the ratio, thus the type of hardness/viscosity you want for your final product. The more you add the more liquidy and less hard it will be, depending on your final intent of use. You can do a harder paste wax to an oily thinner product, by adding more or less D-limonele, . Once applied, this DIY paste wax also needs to be buffed and i't s an amazing long lasting finish. Anyways, now who is ranting? Hope this is helpful and I'd love to see you do any of these. Your channel is awesome and I've already leaned so much. I don't think I ever comment on youtube before but this one just inspired me to share, cause I think you'd really love it. Thanks for sharing and good luck young lady.

Sounds like you haven't watched the tutorials from stone coat, leggari or countertopepoxy. Those 3 companies have excellent training videos for kitchen countertops and they also sell very high quality and kitchen appropriate epoxy that would have worked really well in your project.

Great tips!!! Thank you!! I loooove DIY Fails cuz it's more real... I'm sure many of the DIY projects on RU-vid are edited to make it more instructive but we the viewing audience miss out on the common mistakes and important tips.. More DIY fails and tips please... love them 👍👍👍

The staining problems you talked about totally shocks me !? I'm wanting to refinish my shop table in my work shop and have been trying to figure out what design... colors...etc that I want to go with on my work table. STAINING IS A MAJOR PROBLEM FOR ME!! My shop table surface will see a wide variety of different chemicals , gas , oil , stains , paint , water , vinegar , CLP , glue , ... I could literally double this list !! lol. This makes me pause and possibly rethink my ideas on finishing my shop table !! Honestly... I was using this project to gain experience on refinishing our kitchen countertop that MY WIFE HAS BEEN ON MY BUTT TO HURRY UP AND GET DONE!!!🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️ I can handle stains on my work bench in a shop that noone other than myself will see.... but stains on OUR kitchen.... WHOLE DIFFERENT SITUATION!!! THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO!! I'm gonna do more research and I'll let you know what I find out ! Thanks again🙏🙏

Your epoxy project may have been a fail. Your video about it IS A BIG HIT in my book. Thank you for this info. Well done.

The title is a bit misleading. No disrespect, but it doesn't sound like the epoxy resin was the issue. It sounds like the one applying it didn't research thoroughly, or used a cheap product.

Google pros and cons of epoxy countertops, it also releases VOCs during curing. With anything do your research. Helpful video.

I’m with FreedudeMT. I’m not sure what your research was, but so many of the problems you identified are things Stone Coat tutorials cover correctly. A good substrate to start. How to treat the edge. Using a torch. Covering the workpiece while it’s curing if there’s any debris/bugs. Finishing with a top coat.

Oh my God thank you so much you literally just saved me because I was just about to epoxy my entire kitchen counter tops. You are the only person that has put out a video like this

Did you by chance practice beforehand? That is REALLY important that you do that! I've done mine and other people's. You should totally practice before so you have some kind of idea how to use it before you actually pour countertop's.

Yes, sanding a surface to a dull finish basically makes it porous. That's why matte paint gets dirty much easier than semi-gloss. It's like the difference between glass and concrete.

Hi! I know it’s a year later from the publishing of this video, but you should follow Blacktail Studio. He does this for a living, and his videos have great detail. I’m sure by now you have solved most of the issues with pouring, but 2 of the things he does to mitigate most of the problems you have in this video, 1st he applies the resin with a brush first to prime the surface, as polished as they look, most surfaces have time pores that trap bubbles that can rise to the surface of the resin or get trapped between the surface of the material and the resin resulting in a cloudy finish. Also, priming with a brush does what you already observed with the resin: it flows easier and more uniform. The second thing he does is that he basically makes a coffin for the entire top to encased it and protected from bugs and dust particles. He also sands the resin between multiple pours, and then he does a very high grit sanding and uses a polishing compound that crystallizes the resin so it becomes harder, that step protects the shine otherwise the resin will feel plastic or rubbery and will get marks and scratches more easily. Hope this works for you!

I Am About To Start Resin Pouring Myself So I Have Watched Many Many Videos On Resin Pouring In some It is Stated To Use A Heat Resistent Top Coat so As Not To Get Ring Marks From Warm Coffee Mugs .- I Also Like Vipeoples Videos Which Show Their Mistakes And What Not To Do With Resin. So Sorry For Your Pain But your Video Has helped Me And I'm Hoping I Learn From Peoples Misfortune. Thankyou

Should have watched Stonecoat Countertops videos.

Just watch Stone Coat Countertops. All the tutorials you need.

Thanks for this video! It is very helpful. I have done epoxy coatings on several parts for the boat, including countertops with mixed results. There is an enormous difference between different brands of epoxy. For outdoors, you definitely want something with UV blockers or do a clear-coat with UV blocker, otherwise the surface will be trash in 6 months. For ultra-light weight substrate, I would recommend Nidacore honeycomb core panels with 3oz surfboard cloth laminated to both sides with the same resin as your flood coat. Panels that need extra strength can get more layers on the bottom or use just one layer of 1708 biaxial cloth on the bottom instead of the surf cloth. This will make a super-lightweight and rigid panel where most of the final weight will be your epoxy flood coat.

I am in process of epoxying my bathroom countertops and I have watched several videos, it seems like you did miss a few crucial steps in your prep work, also not all the epoxy material have the same quality. Thank you for sharing your experience and Good luck with your projects!

Epoxy is self leveling to a point, but it is also thick, so there is a lot of surface tension. I do a lot of molding with epoxy fibreglass and there is no way I would wait for it to flow out on its own. I would pour like you did, then take a plastic squeegy and spread it. Then it can self level once it has covered the surface. As for the bubbles, they are introduced when you mix it. The only thing required to get them out is heat. It has nothing to do with co2. Heat does 2 things, it makes the epoxy MUCH less viscous and it expands the air in the bubble. So an electric heat gun will also work. Every 10 deg F shortens the cure time by half. I would suggest doing a small test piece or a small project first to get the technique before you spend $200 or more. Don’t sand until epoxy cures. That is not 24 hrs. More like a week. It might be dry to the touch but the polymer hasn’t fully cross linked yet, which means the long chains of molecules have not linked up. I would wet sand to keep the heat down and by hand, not with a sander.

I actually laughed out loud the whole video. I’ve never seen anything where everything was done wrong. I must say I enjoyed the video.

I'm sorry you had so much trouble. I did all 3 of my bathroom vanity Formica tops using StoneCoat Counter products and videos. They all came out beautiful. The videos addressed all the problems you had: leveling, temperature, sanding, paint dry time, and bubbles. I am very pleased with my projects. (One other thing for mixing the product they sell an adapter for your drill to mix the product for 2 minutes. Please check out their videos. The project is well wort it.

The best way to put curbs around your pouring space is to pull your sheeting flat and then put a 2X4 almost as long as the side of your table on TOP of the edge, Spot tape the sheet and wood together on the outside edge and roll that over once. Tape the corners so they point up or end square. Good pro tip about the scooping from the bottom. Garages are made to breathe. And most basements also shed dust from movement above. There are low and no gloss acrylic products, but they're not labeled for countertops. A few folks use Minwax as a thin sealant anyway. BUT you have to let it cure 48 hours without anything hot on it.. (Great. Now I have to look up and old Minwax using neighbor.)

Idk what the other comments say but a satin polyurethane topcoat would've created your desired finish and also provided much fewer stain/chemical reaction mistakes as well as a more UV resistant and durable finish for a longer lasting piece. Maybe you still can add this to get more of what you were going for. I think you did a great job nonetheless. :)

I used Stone Coat Countertops product and my kitchen turned out beautifully. I researched and watched tons of their videos.

Oh gurl....thank you so much for doing this video!! I have a repurpose business. I am making a countertop overlay out of pallets for a client. I am a huge fan of polycrylic, and that was my plan until a family member of there's thought it would be more durable and better to resin it. I stumbled upon this video in doing research and am so glad I did! So just know, it was a difficult process for you, but one that has saved me so much time and money! Thank you, thank you ,thank you!!

You may claim not to be an expert but you do a hell of a lot better than many so called professional jobs I've seen

So epoxy can be sanded, but it will become hot and gummy. What you are describing is gummy epoxy mixing with the red oxide from the sandpaper. You MUST sand in stages. Go over a section and wait for it to cool back down. You touched on many of the mistakes you made, but here's a couple of things you should know. You have to make certain that every part of the countertop has wet resin as step 0 (brush works better than hands). This breaks the surface tension and allows the free flow of resin via gravity. You should have taped the sides of the table to create a dam and prevent over spill for coat 1 (flood coat). You have to use a resin with a long open time. Don't use the cheap ones. The heat you are referring to doesn't come from the friction from stirring of the resin, it's a byproduct of the chemical reaction of part A to part B. Here is the biggest mistake you made. Your first try with epoxy was with the real counter. You have to try this kind of method out first. At least on a 2'x2' square. If you attempt this again you'll be better. Thanks for posting this. I think people will learn more from watching this than a perfectly done countertop.

A cutting board would help. Id never cut anything on a countertop no matter what its made of.

You did a good job on your countertops but I do have a couple of suggestions for you. The paint you used was fine and 24 hours drying time is fine BUT before you begin pouring the resin you need to wipe it really good with alcohol to remove any oils from your hands because resin will NOT cover those areas. It leaves little holes. Another suggestion which would save you tons of resin is to create a border (lip) around the edge of the countertop with painter's tape. I like the little mote you made on the floor and the tape underneath the edges. When you pour your resin over the surface you have a controlled surface that you can make sure is totally covered before worrying about your edges. Once your resin is poured over the entire surface, remove the painter's tape. This is when the self leveling comes into play. It will smoothly and consistently cover the sides. Take a paint stirrer and run along the edges like you said and save it for any places you may see, but the tape on the bottom will handle the rest. If you need to sand, between coats would be when to do this but there should be no need and actually the one coat that you have built up nicely with the border (painter's tape) should be plenty. You do need to make sure the resin is against the rim (painter's tape) so the edges are consistent. No sanding or you WILL have to do a second coat. Once your resin has dried completely, I would say 48 hours, wipe entire area down with alcohol to remove any greasy fingerprints or dust and THEN apply your polycyclic. Resin is not an ideal product to have in an area where food gets on it. I'm sure there are some sort of cancer causing stuff in there because it is in everything else we use . The polycrylic doesn't hold stains and should hold up for a couple of years and when you notice an area you aren't happy with, wipe surface down with alcohol and slap on another coat of the polycyclic. That only takes a few minutes, cleans up with soap and water, dries in 30 minutes and will make your countertops look brand new. Sorry you had a hard time but it's TRUE, every resin has instructions and work times on the label so be sure to double check so there are no surprises. Lord knows a project of that size is kind of expensive. Don't be afraid to use gloved hands to move your resin around while your border is up, that way you know it is all covered and will be consistent when running over the sides, just have a garbage can handy and throw those gloves out as soon as you move the resin around. Work time varies so you always need to keep in mind that you need to work quickly. Good job though. Something like a bathroom countertop is a much smaller project and not in contact with food or knives or heat so don't be afraid to try it. Good luck.

A wide foam brush is great for applying a very thick, even coat. The "stippling" or "giant orange peel" is chemical rejection by oil, adhesive, wax, silicone, or maybe just fine sanding dust. Good prep by wiping with a tack cloth then acetone helps a lot, but is no guarantee. Epoxy scratches so easily I no longer use it pure for finishing surfaces. I did recently make a small plywood protector board for my workbench. I used a 30% mix of 1200 grit aluminum oxide powder in the epoxy and applied it with a fine short napped paint roller. It turned out so beautiful and finely textured I hate to hammer and cut on it!

So I have seen a good number of your videos and honestly, I think this was one of the best ones. Clearly, you are a savvy DIYer and in general, I find what you are presenting to be helpful, insightful and creative. But as in all things, we learn as much from our successes as we do our failures and the troubles you encountered in this project and your willingness to talk about them is probably the most helpful video you have made yet. So, thank you! Although I am not a professional woodworker, I consider myself a very experienced hobbyist and I have gotten some great ideas and insights from you. Keep going! You're doing great!

I liked the "epoxy attracts bugs and dust" part, as i work on a wood shop that is outside so i try to put my projects in a dark room where light doesn't reflect on the epoxy so bugs won't get attracted that easily. Another thing is put a cover above it or a sheet of nilon/paper/plastic.

Thank you for pointing out problems I wouldn't have imagined. If I do go forward with my first epoxy project, I will make sure it's a small area that can easily be removed or resurfaced.

Thanks a lot for your genuine video, that's the kind of content I love to see on RU-vid! Indeed, I tried epoxy last week on my coffee table and it turned out horrible, so now going over more RU-vid videos to learn from my mistakes and others. Thanks for sharing!

Is no one gonna talk about the candle/bbq lighter?!?! lol FR, the tip about the bugs was good, though. I hadn't seen any pro tips about that in any other epoxy video.

2 things to note not all epoxys are going to do that. Make sure the epoxy isnt the cheapest stuff . Watch stone coat counter top videos they know there stuff . To get that matte look they got a product you apply . Hope this changes your mind about epoxy ...

Great video, thank you for sharing your experience. The your stippling problem looks like fisheye, which is a common problem for those of us who geek out on refinishing furniture. It happens when a surface still has some grease on it, or, worse, silicone spray furniture polish. The grease or silicone repel the finish (whether varnish, polyurethane, or even acrylic latex), sometimes leaving a bubble. If you put your bare hand down on the painted wood before you poured the resin, oils from your hand may be the reason for the flaws. Perhaps there is something greasy on the plywood that you could not see--some shopper before you put greasy mitts on that sheet, or dropped a burger on it. Just an idea. If I am correct, the only way I know to avoid fisheye is to prime with shellac or shellac based primer.

Thank you my dear for the courage to give us the benefit of your wins and fails. Like so many other things it always looks so easy when someone with alot of experience, in a perfect shop does something and we in our homes, with kids & pets running around, try the same. On getting the epoxy to flow into empty areas, I saw on a stone countertops video, the guy just gently grabbed the edge of the epoxy with a small brush or little wood stick and picked/dragged a little from the edge out to the dry area, he did that every 1/4 inch or so along an edge. He just dragged enough to make a very thin "wet" area over the dry area, it helps the epoxy flow that way rather than having the dry surface alone. One thing you could do if you want to work in your garage is build a "clean room" out of plastic. There's "painters plastic" in large folded up rolls I've used in painting before, one roll is enough to make an enclosed area for your project. You can use PVC 1/2 inch sprinkler pipes and fittings to make a frame, they are cheap, will hold in their fittings without glue so you can easily tear down, stow and reuse. I've made big paint booths this way. Thanks again for the tips and watch out for's, its much appreciated!

Those "dots" are called "fisheye" that's when one chemical isn't compatible with another product. It happens when there is contamination on the surface like oils. The surface tension gets broken by the contaminated surface. As for sanding. You didn't wait long enough for the epoxy to cure before you started sanding.. Basically, you did everything wrong that you could possibly do. Ive done dozens and dozens of counters and many other epoxy projects for people. After years of service, they are still perfect with no stains.

Girl that aint the epoxy resin's fault lol this was alllll user error. You should really try again. If you want a matte finish there are pleeeenty of top coat options

I hope that by now you have checked out Stone Coat countertops, they are amazing and easy to follow along. The very first thing I did in epoxy was my kitchen countertop.....then my bathroom, simply by following their videos. I now do epoxy artwork to hang on walls and other fun things. Don't give up, learn how to do it and have fun with it!!

I was watching a video where a guy was doing an epoxy bathroom countertop. After priming he used the spray stone, then epoxy resin, his last step was to use this product called The Ultimate Topcoat. It is supposed to be virtually indestructible. He did do some durability tests, however, I do not believe he said anything about staining. The topcoat did tone down the glossy shine of the epoxy and it looked lovely. It may be worth the research. Thank you for doing this video.