Thanks to making this more public. But please be more precise in you wording next time. This is about the electronic front curtain shutter, but not about the electronic shutter. Two different things. PS: I was cheated is a little harsh if Sony states in their menu "When you shoot at high shutter speeds with a large-aperture lens attached, out-of-focus circle produced by the bokeh effect may get cut off because of the shutter mechanism. If this happens, set [e-Front Curtain Shut.] to [Off]."
Hey Manny, complete silent shutter is fine - it's just the e-front curtain that causes this. I'm a Wedding Photographer and generally shoot full mechanical shutter when indoors and stick to silent shutter when outdoors. I too had this problem and the beginning of the year noticing that my bokeh was different between scenes! The only time I use e-front curtain is for moving scenes when stopped down to say 2.8 and when I need that more responsive shutter and less vibrations (confetti scenes etc.)
Fix the title please. The issue is Electronic First Curtain Shutter not the electronic shutter so people don't get confused thinking the "silent shooting" has the issue too
Silent mode means EFCS on. I believe Silent On is fully electronic Silent Off/EFCS On is 50/50 (front electronic, rear mechanical) Silent Off/EFCS Off is fully mechanical (front mechanical, rear mechanical) There's also the issue that the raw bit depth (and thus the dynamic range) varies between 14 and 12 bit depending on these settings and which sony you're using
For information about the possible root cause, it is from the dpreview thread : if anything has changed in EFCS tech in the 3rd gen A7 cameras. I use A7r3 and had A7m3 for a while. If you shoot slow speed turn EFCS on - less vibration so more sharpness If you shoot high speed open aperture turn EFCS off - avoid messed up bokeh. Tripod is probably slow speed so EFCS should be on to minimize shutter shock. Following some discussions now we know the physics behind the bokeh clipping. The two shutters work on different planes. Physical shutter is a bit in front of the sensor. Electronic one is the sensor surface. The problem at high speed is that only a tiny slit of light** goes between the two shutters that race across the frame. Bokeh and defocus generally is rendered by rays of light falling at higher angle of incidence and those rays get clipped by the asymmetric shutter. So for maximum safety and top notch bokeh avoid using EFCS on anything above 1/500 (double the sync speed) ** - You do know that up to 1/250 first shutter opens exposes the full sensor and then the second shutter closes to end exposure. At higher speeds the mechanics cannot expose the full sensor simultaneously. So the solution is that the two shutter run in front of the sensor simultaneously only exposing a small area of the sensor and for shorter time i.e. the interval between the two shutters. www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3814285?page=14
Electronic Shutter =/= Electronic First Curtain Shutter (EFCS). EFCS electronically starts the exposure, but mechanically ends the exposure. The negative effects only occur with EFCS, mechanical shutter and (full) electronic shutter both do not affect bokeh negatively.
Thanks for clarifying that. I noticed that Manny was disabling EFCS shutter in the video which was confusing me. In any case this is very good info as EFCS is the default on Sony and with my XT-3 I recently set my shutter sequence to EFCS --> MS --> ES... so I've been doing this on both my bodies. Argh!!
Love that you're bringing this up. Since you're playing with the X-T3, go to the Menu > 📷 > Shutter Type - you can tell the X-T3 to use Electronic Front-curtain Sync for for shots under 1/2000 of a sec, and then Mechanical Shutter after that. It's the best of both worlds and I really wish Sony would add that to their menus! It should he said though, if you're indoors shooting under 1/1000th of a sec, E-front is better for hand holding - less vibrations for sharper photos. Super critical for something like the A7riii.
There are 2 pages of the shutter menu for Fuji, the next one has the almighty option of EFCS + MS + ES... took me a while to realize there's a second page LOL
@@feingemacht4604 So I mean: - Electronic Front Curtain Sync for exposures longer than 1/2000th of a sec. - Full Mechanical shutter from 1/2000th to 1/8000th of a sec. - As Michael Lund noted, you can then set up the camera to use just the Electronic shutter for speeds greater than 1/8000th of a sec. I find these settings working great for hand-held portraits. For long exposures on a tripod, I'm not sure how much shake EFCS or MS interferes with the photo and why you might use just ES for longer exposures.
K. Adam Christensen good question, for what it’s worth, I just did some long 15 minute exposures and left the IBIS on and had the shutter set to EFCS MS ES, and it turned out flawless. Now if I had the ibis off and set to ES or something else maybe it would be even more flawless lol... but so far I haven’t had any issues =)
Manny, just one point of clarification: it's electronic FRONT CURTAIN shutter (EFCS), not just electronic shutter, that causes this. A full electronic shutter is when silent shutter is used or what the A9 leverages to get the 20fps, and in those situations, you would not run into this particular issue.
This effect is noted in the expanded manual for the A7 on Sony's website. The couple of things you should note, is that with EFCS off, there will be slightly more delay between button press and exposure, as the mechanical front curtain will need to close before it can open. Additionally, because of that extra curtain action needed, burst fire rate will be about 20% less. Lastly, for longer exposures, the extra shutter action can cause "shutter slap", making landscape and astro shots less sharp. At the end of the day, it depends and what and how you're shooting, and what compromises you're willing to make.
Sony menu on this "When you shoot at high shutter speeds with a large-aperture lens attached, out-of-focus circle produced by the bokeh effect may get cut off because of the shutter mechanism. If this happens, set [e-Front Curtain Shut.] to [Off]. When a lens made by another manufacturer (including a Minolta/Konica-Minolta lens) is used, set this function to [Off]. If you set this function to [On], the correct exposure will not be set or the image brightness will be uneven. When you shoot at high shutter speeds, the image brightness may become uneven depending on the shooting environment. In such cases, set [e-Front Curtain Shut.] to [Off]."
In short its because sensor "speed" because its have long reaction times it cause this problem. Rolling shutter effect in video mode is also affected by this.
@@ryszardzokowski812 how can it be connected to the sensor speed or any other sensor aspect? The out-of-focus circle depends only on the aperture size. I bet the aperture has not enough time for being opened when electronic first curtain is used. Similar problem about using electronic first curtain and strobes. In specs for my a7 1st gen it's said that sync shutter speed is 1/250 but I found that it work only on 1/200 and just now I realized that it's becuase of electronic first curtain, because closing a real curtain takes time and flash signal has time to be sent before it will be opened for exposuring. I have to check this theory though.
Unfortunately this video is very wrong and missleading. The effect does not occur with electronic shutter but with ecfs. Simplified said the mechanical shutter will "cast a shadow" on the first electronic shutter when they are too close together because of the short shutter speed. This is because the electronic shutter is "on the sensor" and the mechanical one is slightly in front of the sensor.
I use a A7III for my concert photography and the e-front Curtain Shutter also causes banding on certain colors/frequencies of light emanating from LEDs (silent shooting is always off).
K9_Unit I used a friends G85 for a concert and all the photos had banding across them. Later I learned that it was the electronic shutter. I tested this in my kitchen that has a fluorescent light. With the eshutter on you can see it and as soon as you switch to mechanical it goes away.
TheReyesValdez94 the (full) electronic shutter has problems with certain LEDs, but I've never had any problem with the electronic front curtain (and second curtain mechanic), which is what causes the error in this video
This has saved me. Out of curiosity i started searching for effects of electronic shutter Cos is just didn’t feel right not hearing the snap of my shutter. I felt like i was taking screenshots of what my sensor was seeing instead of optically writing it on memory. This has confirmed my suspicions. Thank you
Tested this a while ago! Basically turn it off if you: - Have a fast aperture - Shoot over 1/500 - Shoot with artificial light (may cause banding) Although the shutter sound isn't too nice to listen to :(
Hi from Kyiv Ukraine. There is also sometimes banding when using HSS on Godox when using EFCS at fast shutter speeds. This can happen when shooting wide open with not native lenses at around 1/2000 upwards. Not always but sometimes so to cure this you need to switch it off. Yes there is a difference in the Bokeh between on and off but this is subjective. Sometimes you maybe want more structure in the Bokeh so leave it on but switch it off if you want the back ground to be smoother. I look at this as a positive feature to give you a choice in the Bokeh effect than a negative point.
I think this happens because of how the sensor is read. As with a Mechanical shutter, the entire sensor is read at once thus everything is being recorded at the same time, however with an electronic shutter, the sensor is read (although very fast) one line at a time. I believe that this one line reading is the cause of how the blurriness is interpreted. Kind of like if you pressed a stamp on a piece of paper all at once you'll get a cleaner stamp, vs if the stamp was cut into 4 pieces and each piece being pressed down one at a time. no matter how many times you try, the single stamp will be a cleaner rendition than the 4 individual pieces. Just my hypothesis on why this happens.
i had no idea. Because i haven’t use any mirror less camera in my life. I was also thinking about getting one. But now i have to dig down more aspects between mechanical shutter camera vs mirrorless camera. Thanks
Super informative, thanks! That e-curtain is also the culprit for godox/flashpoint strobes not always firing (both below and above 1/1000) as well as some dark banding when using HSS. I just leave mine off 100% of the time. Happy holidays, Manny!
This is true because many times I've had to turn off my electronic shutter because (thankfully) I'd noticed the banding lines on my images before I start post-processing.
The problem with the strobes is that with only one curtain working you can't sync properly at HSS. HSS is designed to work with both front and rear curtains.
Some users were commenting asking what are the benefits or an e shutter or when to use it. So figured I would throw this out there for educational purposes. Basically the main reason to use one would be very bright sunlight and you want to shoot wide open. So say a wedding and they have it at the typical 11-2 time slot, during the summer that can be extremely harsh light, and it would be physically impossible to shoot anything wide open as it would greatly overexpose your pictures, unless you got a nice expensive filter on it. This is why almost photographers will just go into the woods for these moments for the shade. The only other real reason I see for using an e shutter is manual shutters have a life span. Sooner or later you will need to replace it if that’s all you ever use and sooner if you take a lot of pictures. Now if you’re constantly upgrading to the newest camera that may not matter to you. I personally love how fujifilm has a smart feature where it knows when to use manual shutter and when to use e-shutter. It auto turns itself on in the very bright sunlight with a fast prime wide open thus saving me from having to buy a very expensive filter for all of my lenses.
The bokeh doesn't change, you just have less contrast because of brighter overall exposure. My bet is if you normalize for exposure both shots will look identical. There's another reason not to use ES for anything involving even a little movement: sensor readout speed, which in the case of my x-e2 is 1/13th of a second for example.
This is so crazy! I haven’t use the electronic shutter much, but now I definitely won’t be unless I need to. Who would have even thought this would be a thing!
We all suck at the beginning. Spend as much time as you can with getting familiar with your gear. And absorb all the education on the style of images you want to create. I'm sure your images are not as bad as you think they are. It's the ones that think they dont suck are the ones putting out mediocre images. Keep at it only if you are happy doing it. Hit me up on Instagram @blindstig I'm very interested in you gallery now.
No such thing... keep practicing and make yourself better and push yourself.. trust me I was looking at old photos that I use to take compared to the photos I take now... night nd day difference.. just keep practicing and keep pushing!
Keep practice! I'm still feel suck after a year plus into photography. Learning is a progress :) and that's where the fun is, you can never finish learning about photography. There's always more to discover
I also noticed the Sony e-curtain caused banding in my photos. You should do a video on that too. It happened while shooting HSS on a low aperture lens. Solution was turning off the front e-curtain.
This is true. It is written in the user manual though. Also, again with Sony mirrorless, if you have a manual lens and you use electronic front curtain while under aperture priority, the exposure is going to be different in different parts of the image once you shoot past a certain fast shutter speed eg. half of the image is going to be over/under exposed.
It's not the bokeh that matters, but the photo itself. I think both images look fine overall. But nontheless, the mechanical shutter photos do look better.
Very interesting. I don't use electronic shutters since I'm still using dlr. I'm considering my first mirrorless camera since Canons R5 is out now. Good to know!! Thanks to you and your sub for this.
Alternative view: you loved your shots and no one complained, so how important is 1.4 vs f/2? Maybe this is a chance to encourage lens manufacturers to release small, light, sharp primes.
Another practical reason for *not* using e-shutter when shooting HSS is you run a risk of banding. I make sure e shutter and "silent shooting" is disabled when shooting with my Xplor. I basically keep electronic shutter disabled on both my A7III and RIII unless I have a specific need to turn it on, like I'm inside shooting a church wedding and need "silent mode."
I think I'll be knocking out some testing on my own as well. Namely because the reason most people us the E-front curtain shutter in the first place is to up their sharpness, and we really didn't see much comparison on how sharp Diana was between the two. Some may be willing to swap that blur for sharpness if they can. Then again, if this is only happening over 1/1000 of a second, there may just be a distance blur thing going on. Going to find out! Thanks for the heads up!
dang, that's crazy! I always shoot with the mechanical shutter either way cause I've always felt like the photos do look better, I guess my feeling was right there is a slight difference in it. Plus the mechanical shutter feels better when shooting too haha
I’m mind blown! Now my question is when should I use ES over MS? would you recommend disabling the electronic shutter altogether or just if your shutter speed is above 1/1000sec? Thanks Manny, you’re the G.O.A.T.
I agree. I've used the ES for the quiet in a concert setting, in which case I'm in low light conditions and this high shutter speed related problem is not going to occur. So when do you want your camera to be silent, and you have huge amounts of light, I guess?
I used to think about this all the time, when I owned my A7ii. - "Okey now the sun is out, I need to switch to mechanical". - "Okey now it's low light, I can switch to electronic so it's more silent and less annoying" - "Ohh now there is the sun again, let me switch back to mechanical" - "F*CK THIS SH*T, I AM SELLING MY SONY SYSTEM" And this is exactly what happened, after a few months of suffering. (I shoot outdoor portraits, using 1.4 and 1.2 lenses)
I didn’t like my electronic shutter results for a long time. I had wicked red banding when I was shooting college volleyball and dumped the e shutter entirely after that. Guess I got lucky and didn’t have to deal with this issue since. Thanks for the info.
Yep. Electronic shutter always introduces weird artifacts when shooting with certain lights.as well. I disable it alway and use whenever is necessary. Great to see you grow this channel daily.
On the Sony setting there’s an e front curtain shut and a silent shutter. The e front snaps the shutter once, whereas with the option disabled, the shutter snaps 3 times. E front curtain’s purpose is to eliminate shutter shock. Not sure if Manny is referring to mechanical shutter as in silent shooting off of e front curtain shutter off.
Manny, as a Fuji shooter, I would recommend you to test the Fuji files using Capture One. There a free version, Fuji Express. The reason is the worms and artifacts Lr is giving you when it's reading the fuji raws. You can look on RU-vid, there plenty of videos on this matter.
How interesting you've made a video on that comment. When I saw it, it really rubbed me the wrong way, enough that I wanted to defend you for not being able to apply to every post. I am glad to see it has a happy ending and thank-you all for sharing this info.
Interesting. When I test myself I'll also be checking the subject. I've seen tests showing significantly better in-focus areas using the electronic shutter (because of small shake from the mechanical shutter).
This is EXACTLY the reason why I sold my Sony gear. Actually Manny, I have pointed this out months ago in one of your videos comments section. Regardless it is amazing, that finally a well knows RU-vidr creates a video about this (pretty serious) issue. I bought my 1.4 and 1.8 lenses to get the blur that they were designed for. So why did I leave the Sony system? Simple: I had to use mechanical shutter for almost all my shoots, and I needed to remember when to switch between them, depending on the lighting situation. Guys, admit: the cameras are much more enjoyable with electronic shutter. On my A7ii, it was a PAIN (literally a PAIN) to use the mechanical shutter all the time, because it was loud as hell, and the sound was annoying too, not to mention the longer blackout. I used it for a few months like that, and then I sold all my Sony gear, and switched to Fuji. On the Fuji side, there is almost no distortion with the electronic shutter (it's extremely minimal, does not worth mentioning)
I noticed the difference in the background bokeh immediately when I rented the Sony A9 and A73, my friends noticed it in my images too but my friends who shoot Sony told me it was technically impossible.
Yooo Manny! I’m in a Best Buy in Delaware and in the Sony lens section there’s a picture of Diana. The one you took of her in the snow. I was I had ig to send it to you.
Wow, this thought would never have crossed my mind, but this is very noticeable to me. Throwing all my mirrorless cameras in the trash and going back to classic DSLRs.
I believe the softness of the normal shutter picture is due to mechanical movement of the body from the shutter actuation... If you compare the areas that sre in focus too you should be able to see that the image is softer there too , not just the bokeh... Mechanical looks better but that doesn't mean that the electronic is not 1.4 ..
@@DiablyOo There are a lot of checks to do to give out a correct answer about that as we are talking about high speeds there... Electronic shutter is more accurate in terms of speed as the processor clock is know and is divided to fractions so each time it takes exactly the same time.. On a mechanical one though , at such high speeds there may be a delay from the time the sensor clears the buffer tll the curtains open so if these are not perfectly aligned it makes an impact on exposure...When you use the mechanical shutter at such high speeds for a long period of time it degrades as it wears...The effect can't be seen when the speeds are slow cause the delay is not that high to affect the image... Thats a simple and maybe not 100% accurate explanation but i don't want to get into more technical details...
I have no idea... But very few times I do portraits in outdoors so maybe that's why I never realized about that situation ... My shoots rarely surpass the 1/1000 s barrier... I shoot mostly in ES in order to safe the lifetime of my MS for more important photoshoots but a regular portrait session is well handled with ES now I know that in outdoors what I need to do. Thanks
Hey Manny, very interesting. Have you determined WHY though? I will run tests on LUMIX cameras and let you know what I find, but given the exposure shift it’d seem that going electronic means it is shooting at f/1.8 or f/2 instead of f/1.4. That would explain both the exposure shift and the bokeh change. It’d be an interesting next step to determine exactly what aperture it *is* shooting at, but staying in mechanical and manual exposure and stopping the lens down until you find a histogram match. PS - we met at Peter’s party in NY during PPE; reach out when you get a moment via twitter or email and let’s talk about that interview some more.
PhotoJoseph I would think that the aperture you choose would be constant. The action of the electronic shutter is different than the mechanical. The electronic shutter is just not as smooth as the action of the mechanical shutter.
Manny I’m not sure if you’ve noticed, but something else happens with electronic shutters. For example when shooting wide open towards the sun for a silhouette shot, you get these horizontal lines that show across the image. I have a couple of ruined shots as a result of this. To correct the problem, I turn the mechanical shutter on for those shots.
It’s been done to death, but I wouldn’t agree with the argument that it doesn’t matter if you shoot RAW. It’s easy to color correct shots from RAW without material degradation, but the baseline can impact editing time (e.g. someone appreciating or not appreciating Canon’s warmer skin tones).
Leo Man Why? Are you going to edit literally every shot you take in Lightroom? For professional work, of course yes. But for personal stuff? If I edited raw files for all the shots that I take every year I would never be able to get off the computer. So for a large portion of my personal work, I use Fuji’s film simulations. Once you get used to a camera you can nail your exposure SOOC most of the time. RAW is superior, but not always practical.
Jeremy - yes, I edit every photo that’s worthwhile. I find myself returning to old raw files, editing them with newer styles as I mature with my editing style and techniques. I’ve been doing this for 10 years. Then again, I don’t take millions of photos - I try and make EVERY shot count, creating the photo in my head, before I shoot, when possible.
James Peirce I don’t find that a convincing argument. How often do you find yourself editing from the ground up? Improving editing time is about having some base-presets one slaps on to then fine-tune. You prepare those once (sure, different situations, different presets sometimes) and you’re done.
I know I am late watching this, but enjoyed the demonstation. Quote from Sony a6000 manual "When you shoot at high shutter speeds with a large diameter lens attached, the ghosting of a blurred area may occur, depending on the subject or shooting conditions. In such cases, set this function to [Off]"
guys, the problem is not the e-shutter, its the e-first curtain. try it, you'll see the difference. I always shoot "fully electronic mode" or "fully mechanical" :-)
Thing is my Sony A7RIII only gives me that option and I know for a lot of other people it’s the same. Also I tried using ONLY the fully electronic on the Fuji and noticed a small shift as well. Very minor though
@@MannyOrtiz it is of course. I kinda feel a bit cheatet on too. but in terms of "bokeballs" and the back/foreground smoothness the problem is solved for me when I use silent shutter OR fully mechanical. I just dont use e-first curtain anymore. it's a thing on my "old" A7s and also on my A7iii - I just wonder nobody noticed it earlier :-)
I enjoy the video. F Stop VS T*, you might have an f-stop that's 1.4 but if you have the same 1.4 lens but it has a better t stop you'll still see better light shift as well. Something you might want to look into t-stop is a powerful thing to understand
I was thinking the same, problem is people that don't know any better will see this and think it's the "electronic shutter" when in reality it's not! It's the e-Front Curtain Shutter setting that he is talking about.
I did some tests on my A9, and the results are the opposite on the bokeh. My results: - Better BOKEH on the Electronic - Electronic it has less light (but less than half a stop)
Really intriguing video! I'm a Sony A9 shooter and shoot essentially 100% in Electronic shutter. Now you have me wondering. I love the new viewfinder blackout, that would be hard to give up.
*Some modern DSLRs have an electronic front curtain too. You just need to be using live view. The D850 is special in that it can also use it in its standard quiet modes.
So why not just shoot within the cameras max mechanical shutter speed at 1/8000. Don't models prefer the mechanical sound during shoots? I suppose silent shutter for times when it's needed but if you're outdoors like you were in that snow shoot, just stay in mechanical. Definitely informative but seems like an easy solution, no?
The electronic front curtain still produces a single click. I believe it starts to capture the image electronically then finishes with the shutter. With it turned off you get what sounds more like a double click, which is the normal shutter in action. Then in full silent you get no click at all.
Electronic front curtain is what's pointed out here, but I'm assuming the results would be similar for silent shooting too. But there are still times when giving up some bokeh and light is probably worth it for silent shooting.
@@brettnfk Silent shooting does not suffer this problem because resetting the pixels and reading the pixels is done at the same level (sensor plane) and the same timing - shutter speed. Electronic first curtain shutter is the problem because some pixels are reset too late to maintain shutter speed and the light rays hitting the sensor with relatively big angle are blocked by 2nd. curtain.
Mechanical shutter is slower. For example, the Sony A1 can shoot 30 fps with electronic but only 10 fps with mechanical. Best if photographers know the trade-offs and plan accordingly. If you’re a sport or birding photographer your going to choose fps over background blur.
@@iseewood I think it's best if photographers have the choice to say at what shutter speed EFCS is auto turned off. example. EFCS OFF when shutter hits 1/1000 or higher in Aperture priority mode. Fuji can do it, why not Sony?
This is fascinating. I never would have thought of this. My question is does having it on mechanical shutter create any type of disadvantage, or should it be left off at all times?
[Late Reply.] Mechanical Shutter creates shutter shock that may cause blurry photos and drop in detail. I did some tests some time ago on objects that have text on them and can confirm it happens.
Thanks Manny, I couldn't imagine that switching to ES can reduce the recorded light amount! And even less expected could be the change in bokeh rendering!! Great of you to do this test!
From Sony site: Set Electronic Front Curtain Shutter to OFF in the following situations. When shooting at a fast shutter speed with a large-caliber lens attached If you shoot images with Electronic Front Curtain Shutter set to ON, images may blur or be cut off, depending on the subject or shooting conditions. When shooting at a fast shutter speed If you shoot images with Electronic Front Curtain Shutter set to ON, the brightness of the image may be uneven, depending on the shooting conditions. When using Minolta/Konica Minolta lenses If you shoot images with Electronic Front Curtain Shutter set to ON, the camera may not get the proper exposure, or the brightness of the image may be uneven.
Jason did not even reply to me, when I did a very thorough explanation about this issue under his comment section, 1 year ago. If you check out Jasons video, there are tons of occassions, when he is using ES, and the background look horrible. Everyone is ignoring this issue for some reason, Manny is the first big RU-vidr who finally created a video about it.
Mani, if you've ever read Sony's manual, you would've known this. In the manual, Sony doesn't recommend using e front curtain with third party lenses and for wildlife photography nor with flashes because it causes more distortion and color banding and also black bars can show with high speed shutter. So, when you say 1/1000 sec, it's the wildlife shutter range
Hi Manny, it's good you shared this piece of discovery, but I think the title of this video is confusing up electronic front-curtain shutter (1 shutter action) VS electronic shutter (eliminates all shutter action). Disabling EFCS means both front and rear curtain shutter will engage (2 shutters action). The article you suggested is about EFCS. Meanwhile using electronic shutter (silent mode) have its own different cons.
My god. It's just like paying for a 64gb SD card and you see 56GB available when you pop it on your laptop. Same for a thumb drive and a HDD and anything like that. Thieves everywhere man.
Thanks for your quality videos. Immediately after watching this video I went out to shoot some test pictures. I mostly use an Olympus EM1 mark ii and did the test with my 17 mm and 45 mm f1.2 Pro primes at f1.2 and using the 3 available shutter modes: mechanical, 1. curtain electronic and full electronic. Shutter between 1/5000 and 1/8000. There were no visible changes of the bokeh, but there where other differences: Electronic shutter pics had a little warmer tone (approx. 200 degr.) than the other and the full mechanical shutter resulted in a little darker picture (approx. 0.2) so something is not fully calibrated here. I'm happy that the bokeh seems to be trustworthy, but it's slightly worrying to see differences in light and color. I guess the learning is, that we always must do this test on every camera/lens combo in daily use, to be fully aware of the visual signature of our gear - one more thing to worry about 8-P
Leica put out a white paper about this years back, it's a property of optical physics and effects all EFCS shutters. Look at the new Nikon Z6 & Z7, I'm pretty sure they have a menus option to "turn off EFCS above a certain shutter speed" -- all we need is a firmware upgrade similar to Nikon's Z camera.
Not only this, but I also had issue under certain lighting conditions and HSS causing banding or striping over 1/1000 and f1.4 with the e-shutter on. Gotta turn that ish off. It's not as fast and loud af, but worth it.
So Manny "I'm a professional photographer and kind of a big thing on the internet/Influencer" Ortiz is just finding this out now...Stay tuned for "Why you should shoot RAW"
Great example using the histogram! But from what I understand. It is a Combination of Large aperture AND High shutter speed that produces this anomaly. You said you were using F/1.4, but you didn't attribute that as a compounding factor.
