Talvinder Mohein a one way check valve is to prevent anything from going back in after it’s come out. It’s not the end of the world. If your on a budget do what you, maybe even modify your catch can. It’s not rocket science;)
@@MrDriftonin Its not normal, that's a lot of oil, Unless you have over serviced your engine oil, i have a catch can also, on my 3.5, after about 4000 miles, i get about 3/4 on my JLT 3.0
I have a 2018 F 150 2.7 and must say for the $$ it's worth it. Yes I know I have both port and direct injection, but do I really want excessive oil in my intake? I say no, I want to give this engine all the protection I can. The JLT system works as advertised and the product is us made, a win win in my book.
Installed one on my 2015 2.7 E/B when I purchased the truck with 87k miles. I clean it out at 5k mile oil change intervals & the amount of milky blowby is minimal. Word of advice, use some 'no seize' on the can threads. Makes unscrewing it easier.
I installed a JLT 3.0 catch can on my 2020 F150 2.7L (super easy) and it was a wise decision. I've taken about 4 oz of sludge out so far and I am just short of 8,000 miles. Get one.
@@kbron3250 Disagree. I pull sludge out on every oil change. That would otherwise head down the path and cause caking/coke. "Need"? Won't know until the engine gets up there in miles... barely 20k right now.
Thanks for the video. I'll hopefully be buying a new F-150 with 3.5 EcoBoost within a year or so. I plan on keeping it for at least 10 years, so I want it to last.
I just bought my 15 E/B I was looking at videos came across this one and I had a catch can in the cart but I checked my truck and it had one already. I took the time to check it to see if it had anything and it was almost full to the top lol. Dumped it and know I now to check it every oil change.
Scotty Kilmer says the 5.0L oil consumption problem is a Ford class defect that Ford won't admit to. All of Ford's work arounds don't address or fix the real problem..... which is that Ford used an aluminum block on these 5.0 engines, and didn't sleeve the cylinders. They used a ceramic coating in these cylinders (to save a few pennies), and this coating is either failing or it isn't working as it's supposed to, thus causing the massive oil consumption problem.
To save a few pennies, it reminds me of the recall I had on my 2003 Chevy Silverado. GM decided to change the tail gate cables from stainless to galvanized ones. Well, the galvanized ones would corrode and were snapping. So Chevy had a recall and went back to stainless ones.
Ecoboost engines starting in 2017 went with multi port fuel injection and direct injection combo to address the carbon build up on the valves. I have an 18 3.5 ecoboost HO, I installed a catch can and after about 1000 miles I drained some gunk that would have made it back into the engine. Cheap insurance for protecting your engine and don't see any cons in installing one.
@@joseespino218 I would if it was my truck, since you have a port injection system, it will keep your valves cleaner from carbon deposit build up. Just make sure to check at 1k miles initially to get a better feel how much oil its catching to have an idea when you need to check. Jlt makes an inexpensive one and easy to install. You only need it for passenger side.
Not necessary guys, if you use a quality synthetic oil and filter the valve coking isn’t a worry. Putting a catch can on is just another step on your maintenance plus you have to find a place to get rid of the waste. A good oil & filter changed at proper intervals and you’ll enjoy a 300,000 mile lifespan to your engine. I have a 2011 f150 3.5 ecoboost with 290,000 miles on it now and it sounds just like the day I bought it. NO Catch Can!!!
I agree Steve. What is especially important on using synthetic oil changed every 4-5K is not only reducing carbon build up (I still get an induction cleaning every 40K too) but keeps the timing chain tight and happy. My 2012 Eco now has 282K+
@@kbron3250 very nice, I just reached 370,00 miles on my 2011. It still doesn’t use a drop of oil, no timing chain issues, no valve issues and I average about 17 mpg. I’m very pleased with its performance.
@@bruceadams3687 I use Amsoil signature series oil with the Amsoil 25,000 mile filter. I personally do 10,000 mile oil changes and my pickup now has 387,000 miles on it and it still doesn’t use any oil. I would also recommend using Amsoil P. I fuel injector cleaner every 4000 miles.
installed one on my 2013 F150 5.0 about 5 years ago, last month i remembered to dump the catch can( i usually empty it every 10,000 miles or oil change) and it was almost full lol.
Just installed in my 2023 5.0 f150 dealer said it voids warranty but called Ford they said its fine....do it sooner than later it's worth it replacing valves at 100k will cost thousands
I just put an oil catch can on my 2017 Silverado 5.3 naturally aspirated and was amazed at the amount of oil I found in it. I running with a JLT system. These direct injection engines are for the birds.
Not sure if youve put one already on, but Ive been using this 5oz one. Internal baffles, 2intake 1outlet and has a drain valve. Works really well. I drain it once every 6k-7k miles. I dont use the air filter it comes with, or the third port. I got the third port that was I have alot of options where to put it, make it look more OEM. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N7BJDRB/
Why do you have to reconnect it to the intake..?? Why not just disconnected from the air intake and let the vapors evaporate?. And the catch can can keep collecting oil
decent, hey was wondering why these trucks get time chain rattles at cold seems like the eco boost have them and now I'm hearing even the 5.0l are getting them
The reason they have timing chain rattle is because people use cheap oil filters and they don’t change the oil often enough. What happens is the timing chain gets plugged with sludge and they operate on oil pressure. If the problem isn’t remedied the chain stretches and ultimately ruins the engine. If you use a good synthetic oil with a high quality filter and change the oil every 5 to 6,000 miles they don’t seem to have a problem
The reason you’re getting so much bye-bye back into the crank case is Because The EPA forces Ford to use cheap low friction piston rings to get better MPG out of its engines.
I use simple green, but a little dish soap and water in a spray can works well. You can buy specific engine cleaners, But anything that will cut through grease will work well. The only things to watch out for are the battery, air intake and alternator.
Oh, gotcha. According to Ford, there is no approved method to clean the valves. One thing you can do is disconnect your blow off valve from the intercooler, then drive up and down the street giving it a lot of gas a couple times to blow out water or oil in the intercooler.
I know this question is old but tossing in a bottle of seafoam or Lucas fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank every 1k to 3k miles when filling up will help clean things up and keep things cleaner
Ever since I put a catch can in my F150, I get a strange sloshing/hissing noise every time I take my foot off the gas. It's only for a second and I can only hear it at slow speeds. Any idea if that's normal?
@@Billy28376 The hose it came with was crap so I bought braided 1/2" hoses from Napa, and that's what's in there. I appreciate you replying but no that can't be it.
I have a 2011 5.0. It has been consuming oil on and off for about a year and most mechanics can’t figure it out. I wonder if the sketch can system on the PCV would help with that?
Vw had this problem with their gdi engines...but on newer models even ford ecoboost engine the manufacturers installed dual gasoline injector systems...one for the manifold to clean valves and the original gdi system...so do your homework on your vehicle before wasting your time and money...
Agree GSC- I believe 2018+ Ford Eco Boost have the dual gasoline injectors so yes- catch can is a waste of money. I have a first gen 2012 Eco and I am not wasting my money on a catch can. I have an induction cleaning done every 40K to clean the carbon off and the truck runs fine- 282K now. Also a painful lesson I learned on keeping an Eco over 100K on a DYI is to only use OEM Motorcraft ignition coils. Trust me they are worth the added cost over cheaper brands. At 150K I bought Auto Zone mid grade coils and they were a disaster.