Will an ABANDONED C10 Run & Drive? Mothballed for YEARS 

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I really like Kevin's content.

Kevin, there may be a ton of videos on doing drum brakes, but none as calm, clear and concise. Loved this.

Mook's personality is pretty much the definition of letting the intrusive thoughts win and I'm all for it! ❤️

Love Kevin’s videos. But they are even more fun to watch with Mook in them. She is one of a kind

“And try to flip to make some money” *Words I never thought would come out of Kevin’s mouth* 😂

A little tip for old engines as long as you have a timing light: Hook up the timing light and look at the marks - rev the engine and let it decelerate while watching the marks - they shouldn't change much at all (less than 3 degrees, the less the better). If they move more than 3 degrees, your timing chain is loose - if they move upwards of 5 degrees, maybe ought to replace it....soon (especially if you have any "strange" noise when accelerating / decelerating). This, of course, assumes that any vacuum advance and manual advance (distributor weights, for example) are plugged / removed. You can also test the chain manually if you have easy access to the crank bolt. Open the distributor cap and note - exactly - where the rotor is pointing. Take a wrench and SLOWLY turn the crank back and forth - noting the amount that the crank turns before there is any movement of the distributor rotor. Once again, the less movement, the better. So, why all this? You'll find more than a few old engines out there that are parked because the timing chain needs to be replaced. At times, owners will park the vehicle not knowing that it's the timing chain - all they'll know is "it just never runs right no matter what I do". Yep...cause a bad chain - well, the engine is rarely properly timed - might rev up really great, but then pop like hell on deceleration...... Edit: I should be more clear about 3 degrees, etc. If your standard timing at idle is say, 6 btdc, you'll see the timing change to more and less than 6btdc (usually a little more on the accel side than the decel side). As long as your timing doesn't change more than 3 degrees - more than 9 or less than 3 btdc - you're generally fine. 3 degrees meaning you'll see, on average, a 6 degree "swing". Watch it, of course, if you see more than 3 degrees in either direction and certainly be concerned if you see 5 or more.

im liking this channel more with every video i watch. the fact that Kevin is a Ford guy instead of a Ford Basher (like most other channels) is REALLY refreshing. and im a Ford guy in the UK!

Good looking truck. Don’t know my Chevy bodies well, but that’s easily my favorite grille/headlight combo for the Chevy years.

It's always a great day when Junkyard Digs uploads a new video. I'm a Ford guy but I like these old Chevy trucks too and it is nice seeing them get another shot at life

Your calm demeanor and exemplary patience make every video you do so very worthwhile to watch. I don't think that there is another channel out there that I could watch the whole thing, from beginning to the end on just repairing drum brakes, but I would watch yours. Grant job, love every one of your videos, and I always look forward to more.

I just want to say, thanks for being 100% authentic. I love watching you guys just being yourselves. What you see is what you get. Love it

Kevin: As a fellow Iowan I'm so proud of what you, Luke, Mook, Angus and everyone else has done with your channels. I'm sitting here in Woodward, sick as a dog, but my day is better watching you guys rescue the cars and trucks guys like me drove back in the day. I always learn something, so even old dogs learn new tricks! LOL. Stop by sometime and I'll buy you a Blue Yummie, or Old Mill. 😆 Great job.

LOL- when you realized you forgot the shoe guide, I SO felt your pain! I have done that so many times myself! Great video, Kevin, we all really appreciate your time and especially your hands on knowledge :)

I love it when Kevin hops in the car and says "lets go for a ride", that seems to be the que for something to (nearly) always go wrong! another cracking video, thank you all!

True story, Kevin: I argued for 2 full days with ONE SIDE of the rear brake springs on my 78 C10. I tried using channel locks, vice grips, screwdrivers… I spent most of my time swearing and chasing springs across my driveway. Then I drove the 20 miles to my local Harbor Freight, picked up a brake spring tool, watched one RU-vid video on how to use it, and had the springs on in two minutes flat. The other side went on even faster. I hate drum brakes and will probably do a disc brake conversion the next time I need rear brakes on the truck, but the right tool for the job definitely worked wonders for me.

Sorry had to add some more tips to this Video, first thing is the heavy metal rod that holds the one shoe to the backing plate should always go on first, the smaller spring goes to it's outside to help hold the bigger rod in place, I also just noticed that you put the shoes themselves on backwards, each wheel will have one shoe longer then the other, the long shoe Always goes on the rear side of the hub, as for the tools, if you buy the junk ones from the freight place, you will fight with them, a good set of brake tools makes life so much easier, the set you have doesn't look to bad, you should try them, your fingers will thank you.

I just love hearing an old Chevy 6 come back to life. When you set the timing and it smoothed out, it warmed my heart. That is one nice truck. If it was a stick, I'd really be wishing I could get it. ( probably sold a long time ago now)

Always nice when Kevin teaches car technology, thumbs up for you Kevin, I have been a car mechanic myself for 18 years and am happy with your explanation of work, no nonsense stories. Nice truck that C10, too bad I live so far away. Greetings from the Netherlands.

I've got a 94 Chevy K1500 and a 94 Chevy C3500HD (8ft bed). These trucks from the 70s through 1998 are excellent work trucks. Very dependable and easy to fix. I had my 94 sitting in my barn for 3 years. Changed oil, drained fuel lines, siphoned out gas, filled up new gas, and reinstalled air cleaner assembly and she fired right up.

Kevin you are amazing. You really know your stuff. I love how you explain what you're doing so that people can learn from you.

I really like Kevin's content. He does a great job talking through what he is doing. I've never had a Automotive class so I'm learning a lot about cars from his channel. Plus, Mook is a hoot! 😄

I’m not likely going to need to replace brakes on an old Chevy, but there is someone out there who will be grateful for this video. I enjoyed watching it too.

Hey Kevin, I wouldn't bother with PV Blaster or heat for those fittings on the hoses. You just need two hammers, one heavier than the other. You take the heavier hammer and hold it on one side of the nut as a kind of anvil. Then you use the other one to hammer in the opposite side of the nut. You may have to repeat that for the other side's of the nut, but that usually cracks them loose pretty quick and makes them super easy to turn too.

Love this truck. My grandpa had one. We went EVERYWHERE in it. His was a 3 on the 🌳. I'm 46 and that was some of my best childhood memories. Thank you for this video.😊😔

Good to see Mook and Angus. That's definitely a decent truck. Sounds pretty healthy and good luck in the sale Kevin 👍✌️🇺🇲

Mook is definitely the key ingredient to a happy relationship 😂 being silly and having fun is definitely one of the main reasons me and my wife are still laughing after nearly 20 years together, great to watch.

When Kevin said he looked like the gold tin man, I heard C3pO audibly gasp and say”Well I never!” Love your stuff man it’s so good!!

Kevin, Thanks for the detailed explanation of a brake job, for the 500th time. It really helps us to understand what each part of the components work. The more I learn the more I realize, I AIN'T DOING MY OWN BRAKES! I am here for the laffs and Mook-Cam.

Mook and yourself should offer a 10 minute safety video regarding do and do not when working on starting engines. You tucked in those draw strings for a reason and some in a hurry could have missed the point or that open fan blade. Emergency Rooms suck and fingers don't grow back. Both of you do awesome content!

Awesome to see an old 6 cylinder pickup on the road again. I think that accelerator pump is inside the bowl like on a Carter carb for the ford 300 and 240

The carburetor might be missing the linkage to the accelerator pump, it looks similar to corvair carbs which have a plunger type accelerator pump. And I loved that video on the barn find corvair cause it gave me an itch to finish getting my grandfathers corvair running plus there is so much history behind the corvairs.

I wish all repairs would happen as quickly as your "magic of television" segment. So fast. So easy.

Great stuff! Love the explanations of WHY you do the things you do, instead of other channels who just do it without saying why! EDUCATIONAL!

The best points refresh tool I've ever had was el-cheapo paper nail files. Basically is just a piece of cardboard with fine (ish) sandpaper glued in a handy format. I keep an old ten-pack in a zip bag in my toolbox. Great to refresh a pair of carboned-up sparkilators as well.

32:18 and 33:15 if you want to avoid brake dust in the air when disassembling or wire brushing the backing plate, feel free to keep a garden hose or even a spray bottle full of water near by, and soak it down before making dust/releasing it into the air. Just a safety thing i learned in both high school shop class, and my college automotive technician course! Of course brake cleaner works too, but that stuff can be expensive!

Angus! It's been a minute! Heck, and yeah Kevin, there are 9 billion videos out here on doing drum brakes, but yours are the best to watch because you patiently explain everything in simple layman terms and you're not afraid of repeating yourself from older videos you did where you explained what the components of something are and how they function. So keep it up!

I'm a simple man. I see a new JYD video, I click, I hit thumbs up. I hope you get that charger, dude, that would be such a boss revival!

Glad to see you got angus back on a episode missed seeing him in the last few

I learned some things on drum brakes and it will be very helpful with my '75 Firebird and my '72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4. Really enjoyed watching you revive this great truck and give it new life! Props man!

Kevin, you put the brake shoes on backwards. The shoes are different lengths of braking material for a reason. To reduce pedal pressure the shoes are loose to allow them to rotate a limited amount with the wheel. The brake shoe movement is needed for the semi self-energizing design. The front (smaller shoe) applies braking force to the bottom of the big brake shoe while the wheel cylinder applies braking force to the upper end. The brakes you pulled off of Mook's Nova were backwards too, that's why they were worn so differently.

Thanks guys for sharing your life with us all.

The other day I bought a quad for real cheap, I knew it wasn't gonna start, but only after 2 days I got it to fire, I learnt quite a few tricks from your videos and some others from a mate. Thanks!

Had a 69 C15 ( leaf spring rear ) that was 3 on the tree that I swapped out for TH350. Fun little project. Went with the aluminum eBay rad too. As I do with most vehicles.

I am SO glad you washed this before you worked on it. It's one of my OCD's when you get a hold of one of the revivals. 😁Drives me nuts. Such a sweet truck! I hope whoever gets it takes care of it.

Nice tutorial on drum brakes. Your carb does have an accelerator pump and it needs a new one in its rebuild. It also has a choke and an air cleaner and these things work together, especially on small carburators.

I'll just add something about brake hoses - check inside of them before fitting. It's only happened a couple of times, but the insides of the metal fittings weren't machined. Literally a solid metal slug. When it happens you'll be wondering why it doesn't let any fluid through when trying to bleed them!

Looks like the front tires locked when stopping in shopping parking lot at the end Great video Kevin @Junkyard Digs

Tools, tricks, and methods never get old. More carb diagnosis and correction is always welcome. Love it, you're not being repetitive - it's called "reinforcing"!

Your description on how to get an engine running was spot on. However, and this is a personal opinion, I wish you would shoot a gas/oil mixture down the carb instead of brake clean. It would give the cylinders a little lube on startup. Again, just a personal opinion. BTW, love the revivals.

Mook always makes me laugh. Kevin always makes me laugh. My kinda people! Always love the content. When my phone tells me about a new episode, I pull it up on the big screen in the garage and turn up the sound bar!

Kevin I can tell you that inline 6 is not the 292, as the motor mounts are not offset like they would be for a 292 inline 6. So it is probably is the slightly smaller inline six, which I forget the size too. But two things you might want to do, that will keep that engine running. Replace the cam shaft & lifters, and update the motor mounts. As those inline 6’s was seriously bad about dropping the cam shaft onto the #1 push rod snapping it and busting the block. And those 3 piece motor mounts are a bear to find when they break.

That is a heavy half. The "Heavy 1/2" was essentially a tow package with 6 Lug hubs, stiffer springs, and Tow mirrors on both sides (most trucks of this Era only had a driver side mirror). Idk if it also came with a posi rear but it could have been optioned separately.

That el Camino looked killer

Havnt done drums since my freshman year of high school in auto class, can’t believe how easily reminded I was watching this. Loved this video

Love it, no electronics, no stupid ECU, no stupid sensors, no stupid ODBII, no CE light, just some knowledge of mechanics and elbow grease. Like Stymie in the “Little Rascals” said “Brakes ? We got brakes”. Drop a new carb on there. Those old sixes lite on the HP, but nice on the torque.

On the next episode of Junkyard Digs, Kevin takes the front brakes back apart and puts them together correctly with the short shoe in the front.

Nice find. My first vehicle I bought in 1991 at age 15 was a 69 GMC that's basically this truck. I sold it long ago but still love these old trucks

I currently own a 69 SWB Chevy C10 with factory wood bed. When I was in high school, I had a 77 GMC Sierra Classic SWB. Early on, I purchased aftermarket hood braces for the hood buckling.

I love how he holds the gasket all carefully not to get it on his fingers then turns around and smears it all over it with them.....priceless!

Haven’t clicked that fast in a while, love y’all’s content, hits close to home for me, I come from a mechanic family, so it’s nice to see people who appreciate older vehicles. Just bought my very first classic car, 1957 Ford Fairlane. Love y’all’s videos!

Great video! I know you hate doing brakes but the tips on how to do things step by step and one at a time are always needed. Thanks for the video! Keep up the great work! Also - always happy to see Angus drop in. You guys rock!

Kevin and Mook you are going to make History for the best place for learning how to fix older stuff. I wish you the best of luck with all your endeavors. Thanks 😅😂

Thank you so much, my boyfriend has a 72 c10 that was his fathers, his father passed away in 07 and it’s sat since then And we’re finally getting to it all these years later and this is going to help us a lot ❤

Fastest notification I’ve ever clicked on

I am working on a 72 gmc and love that you are starting to do more Chevy trucks

I really appreciate how you show exactly what you are doing and explain what it does. You are getting to be a good teacher. Also, that wire you put from the battery to the coil, that is how people used to steal cars, also known as "hotwiring" a car. Very good reason to find a way to lock your hood!

Boy I sure do miss my old '69 C10. Eager to see the fix up.

I like how simplistic you make everything sound! I’m not a mechanical inclined person but whatever part it is I need I’ll know just enough what to research but as Far as replacing the part Nope not a clue when it comes to the engine but you make it so simplistic I could do it by watching a couple of your vids!

Possibly my favorite chevy truck ever. Nice find!

Kevin, after hundreds of those brake jobs, I have to say that was the BEST drum brake tutorial video I have ever seen. That would have helped me when I was a teenager….but there was no internet then!

Video's with Mook are the BEST!

Auto shop 101 loving it Kevin the only thing missing ,is a few angry moments ,I would also suggest using line wrenches instead of open wrenches on Brake and fuel lines lines

Kevin, the shoe with the long lining is the secondary, in other words it installs to the rear, the shorter lining goes on the front, if you put them in backward your brakes will be excessively "grabby" or may even skid the wheel with light brake pedal input, just an FYI so yer not screwing with adjustment when you drive it and eat steering wheel first time ya hit the brakes

i always enjoy another Chevy being saved as well as watching another in the seemingly endless number of brake jobs... Great work, as always.. If I had the bucks, I'd take this (or some other truck) off your hands

Loved this episode. My brother and I learned to drive on my dad’s stepside ‘68 C20 with a 292, (also on the ‘52 Ford tractor, but that was work) bombing around the back fields, learning to fishtail it on wet grass and regain control. You know - farm kid stuff. Living in L.A. now, you don’t see a lot of ‘em. I’d love to find one someday and bring it back to life.

Probably already been mentioned, but there are drum brake tool sets available that I personally like to use rather than channel locks, but not everybody likes to use them.

If the truck has sat for so long, like before we were getting crappy ethanol gas, richen up the idle mixture. The engine is running off the idle circuit at part throttle up to 2000 rpm in many cases. Lots of great How To tips in here.

You should advertise it “road ready” with the original tires and brakes, would be hilarious for the new owner taking it on the road! 😂

If you want these resurrected rides to be reliable and safe I recommend rebuilding the carburetor. And yes, there is a accelerator pump.

Traditional points (and relay contact) files are meant to just "burnish" the points contacts, they really aren't supposed to aggressively file down the contacts. Points are usually plated, and filing off the plating will cause them to get dirty much faster. Of course with old very corroded points you have to remove all the corrosion, so you have no other choice but to file or sand.

I was just thinking, when you were pulling that truck out of its hole, that you should do a 'revival tutorial'. And lo for you went into that extra detail I was looking for.

No one else on RU-vid goes in-depth on brum breaks other than junk yard digs.

On my battery cable wires, when u use a replacement like that, I put the wires in a copper tubing and flatten it then solder, drill a hole and bolt it directly to the repair terminal. Works great.

Even the old tires are cool. I want some centennial canyon climbers lol! Super normal for those cowls to rust like that.

That truck is my favorite bodystyle of and Chevy C/K/Silverado. I would love to have that truck but just can’t afford anything like that at the moment. Awesome video as always Kevin. So glad you’re able to bring most of these vehicles back to life and get em back on the road

I remember when all we had to restore a set of points was the strike plate of a book of paper matches. Out in the middle of nowhere in Utah had points failure and it sucked in the 100 degree heat. Man you come across some real good classics. Have a great time.

"Can you move my Johnson" "Angus I Don't know if we are that close" 🤔 😅 😏 🤣 @Junkyard Digs

Love the content, but I'm fascinated by the way you were tying up the excess on that strap once you got it on the trailer!

Those tools are really easy to use. Also you put the shoes on the front brake shoes on backwards. The primary shoe( the smaller one) goes on the front and the bigger shoe goes to the rear.

My dad has an identical C10 but it doesn't have a lick of rust and it has been on our farm since '69. It has also had 3 or 4 owners!

To each their own, but one of the few “specialty” tools I own is the drum brake spring tool. It makes life so easy

So happy when junkyard digs pops up!!

I honestly can't believe your not keeping that one. C10s are so hard to find in that good a shape.

I'm sure it has already been mentioned but that is a 71 Charger. Looks to be GA4 Gunmetal Gray. That luggage rack is a very rare option.

Die hard Ford guy but I like seeing all these old American pickup trucks saved no matter what the brand. Should be able to make some decent money on it those Chevy guys will love getting ahold of that. Hopefully the person that buys it treat that truck right and restores it

I’m a Ford guy too, but wow! What a gorgeous C10!

Have y'all decided what you're gonna do with the Ram? It'd be cool to see it Cummins swapped, but if it's too much hassle I'd understand.

great truck... love it thumb's up 👍

My dad had a 73 charger SE when I was a kid. I remember my brother and I playing in that thing all of the time. He ended up selling it to make ends meet in the late 90s. I hope to one day find him one to restore.