That Peugeot car coil over installation process just sums up my day to day life as a mechanic and people wonder why I don't wanna work on cars in my free time.
Once upon a time many many moons ago I was a mechanic at an independent shop. A reasonably priced one at that. Most of what I worked on during that time was 10-15 year old cars that have been in traffic every day since new. Rain, snow and salt for 15 years sure makes things tricky to work with. You get real friendly with acetylene torches and angle grinders. That time damn near ruined my enthusiasm for cars. I like old cars, I've never owned anything other than old cars and probably never will. It's fine dealing with that sort of thing on my own car. I'm ok with that. But not everyone else's boring cars all day, then go home and do it all again on my own. I'm sure things are different at a brand dealer where most of what you work on is still under warranty and relatively new/clean.
I’ve literally never received a single notification of any channel I’ve belled. Not in my emails not in my junk mail not on the app or anywhere. I have no idea if RU-vid even knows it doesn’t work lol.
In my experience - If the dampers have any kind of significant mileage on them, and then you swap to lowered springs and keep the old dampers, the dampers WILL be absolutely trashed within a year. BUT - if you replace the dampers with fresh ones when you change the springs, (yes even OEM dampers) then you're good to go. no reduced life or performance. something about how they "wear in" based on the ride height, if you change that height, they always go bad very quickly. but if you install new ones along with the lowered springs, they "wear in" at that height and work perfectly. This has been my experience across 4 different platforms. If you throw in drop springs, get new struts. Trust me.
How many k's would you say is a significant amount of mileage? I'm nearing 70,000 on my OEM ones and am considering springs + struts - I'd go with coils, but they're illegal in SA and I'd rather not risk getting defected.
I think this really is key. Id bet that there are micro grooves and wear patterns in the piston that develop over time and miles. Changing that at too late a mileage would roast seals quickly.
OEM shocks are expecting to be at a certain resting position. Throwing lowering springs on an OEM shock “CAN” have a negative impact in two ways: -Shock lifespan could be reduced because the shock is essentially in a higher load state being out of the expected OEM travel position. -The obvious problem, shock travel. Each shock has mechanical limitations on how far is can travel both compression and expanding. Having a reduced position travel adds makes the shock behave in a loaded fashion potentially reducing the expected performance of the shock. One thing to always consider, the weakest link often breaks. Sometimes by influencing the ride height with lowering springs, your shocks may be fine but the other suspension components may end up soaking up the added load. As the guy pointed out though, the experiences will vary widely across platforms and parts. Important to do the research and understand what others may have already done before making the decision. In my own experience making my own sh1t boxes faster. Lower springs typically meant less absorption. It was better for me to buy a kit, coil overs or a spring and shock combo (designed to work together to replace the OEM) for lowering.
To add to what you said some shocks also have damping response based on where in the shock travel you are (on top of high/low speed input pressure), being lower in the shock travel can change its characteristics compression and rebound. Also a lot of people don't understand that you normally get better performance from a better shock then from lowering the car.
I was going to comment that mcm needs to ask an engineer, but this comment is probably what they would say. Still... they should ask an engineer that designed the shock.
Shocks are not under significant load when at rest, no matter what part of their travel they are resting in. OEM shocks are often shipped fully compressed and it doesn't harm them at all. The internal stresses come from changing extension as the fluid is forced through the valving. Once it reaches equilibrium the stress is gone
lowering kit does nothing for performance company like h&r or eibach only lower the car modestly 1-1.5inch on avg and still retain oem performance but if you want proper performance upgrade get a proper coilover kit design for the car.
Also lowering springs will obviously be stiffer to prevent bottoming out, so the stock shocks might have too little rebound damping rate to properly control the spring rebound (especially if the shocks are already worn out). Making for a pretty bouncy suspension tuning setup.
@@s70driver2005 Still wondering if it's too much, since we get heavy snow up here (Finland). In summer I 100% agree with you. Coilovers would be good option, since I could raise it for the winter, but they are more expensive as I don't want to buy JOM (unlike some Aussie on this show lol).
I have a MK7 GTI with the adaptive suspension (DCC). There is a adaptation you can do to account for lowering springs. Basically you jackup the car so that all 4 wheels are off the ground. Then you run "adapt with deflecting wheels". The suspension computer resets and will check the ride high when the vehicle is on the ground. Ride quality will be improved. The suspension almost feels like stock. I do think my DCC shocks are wore out though and will need to be replaced soon.
My dealer put lowering springs on my 2010" Lancer sportback. Every bump hit hard AF. Replaced shocks under warranty 4x before I had them put gas struts on it. Best thing I ever did. The Gas struts made it ride like a dream with lowering springs.
I have a new challenge... They claim to be the best 4 wheeled drive channel. Let see the boys buy the cheapest AWD minivan and put a lift kit on it and put it head to head with the Jimny
What I ran into was my Apprentice [electrician, wannabe Vanilla Ice] had taken his [mom's we found out later] '08 Escalade had dropped 2 inches [50 mil?] The truck's suspension thought it was down from weight in the back. So driving over expansion joints in the road felt like you're crossing a set of railroad tracks [EVERY bump, pothole, I drive in Metro Detroit. We're not known for pristine highways' & byways'] He thought it was from his tools [a minimal set, no where near mine], only way we heard about it was from another guy on the job. His Son & his Lincoln M-something or another {its this pretty pearl}.
Ran slip-over-coils over my stock kyb struts and it handled great for track. In fact my honda del sol (i called it my del slow) would handle better than any of my friends cars in the twisties (vs 240sx, 180sx, '00 honda coupe, two chevy Cobalt's, etc). We all had budget parts and my del slow had the best handling however was also the slowest in the group (power to weight).
I’ve always hated adjustable coilovers I’ve had expensive ones and budget ones I’ve owned close to 60 jdm cars and everytime I’ve gotten one with coilovers I’ve always sold them and put shocks with lowered springs Best shocks I’ve ever had were the Apexi adjustable damper shocks with kings springs I had in an r33 Followed by Mazda speed shock and spring combo in an rx7 fd Rode the best and were low enough for the street
If you keep the dampers, the piston runs in a new spot in the cylinder that are not worn, so might be a little better, but new shocks are still better, but you can buy as you can afford, just remember to release all your bushings, so they all rest without tension
Long ago, I installed lowering springs (-1" = 25mm)... - they destroyed my shocks after only 5,000 miles 😞 Since that time, I've been installing ONLY coilowers
If the car thinks it’s in a deeper state of compression/bump than it is, wouldn’t it add compression damping to slow it dow faster? This would of course feel stiffer
I wouldn't recommend any lowering unless you use a camber kit and bump stops on your struts. Personally I've lowered my car 2 inches and it was a terrible idea, I put the factory springs back on a few weeks later. I live in the Midwest USA where we have extreme temperature differences, from 120+ F to 30 below zero and even more. Our roads aren't low, or stiff car friendly. I'd recommend poly bushings if you're looking for response but want to keep your ride quality. Otherwise do it correctly with a proper camber kit and correct springs for your car.
2 inches can be quite a bit depending on the car, especially if youre not cutting the bumpstops down or using upgraded shocks. camber kit is only necessary if you cant get the alignment back to the spec you want with the factory adjustment
i lowered my 2014 3 inch in the front by 2 inch spindles 1 inch lowering coils and belltech struts set at 0 drop. the problem im having the struts are bottoming out. plz help
As we are family Essentially, y’all are far south Texas. Y’all need a shirt that says “the driveway is the only way”. Or what ever you said moog. Some girl was talking to me at the time and tried her best to distract me from y’all with her cackling.
Well live in Europe. Sorry raced Ren 5 and pugs for years. Like anything once you get used to it it is easier. Watched everything you do . Poor Pug, she's being blamed, being bad, but it's just the age of her, like Cheryl? Marty bought the cheapest, wrong car. It seams if it's not Jap you diss or hate it. It's not our fault you live in Auz.🤣🤣 Give it a chance.😂 You wil warm to it The shocks are shit😂😂 The rear shocks are no better than standard. You need to be able to stiffen them to make the rear end work. Basic explanation but although eygyption designe, it can work and be fun. That's why God gave us a left foot, not just for clutch. 💙💙💙
in lowering your car you usually put harder springs in. the original shocks will not have high enough rebound damping. this discussion was over simplified.
