Will Marvel Mystery Oil reduce oil consumption? | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 4 

One thing that MMO really does help with is lifter noise. I've had several different engines with lifter tick, and it goes away almost instantly as soon as you pour this stuff in. blows my mind every time.

Dave, I have watched all your three videos on engine oil burning reduction attempt. Even thought the results are negative, they all provide valuable information and guidance for future DIYers. Your work will save them tons of time, effort, and expenses. Appreciate you shared your results. Keep on the good work, and hope you will find a solution for your Corolla.

After disassembly of several of these engines to replace stuck rings and clean piston oil drain holes, I have come to the conclusion that it is not a Toyota design flaw but an Owner maintenance cause. As this engine is used in the lower cost vehicles, many owners are reluctant to perform oil changes as needed due to the trouble of doing it themselves or the expense of paying someone to do it for them. Old oil and lower grades of oil allow carbon to plug the drain holes and stick the rings to the pistons.

When I was a young man and just getting into working on cars an old timer told me to free an engine that was frozen from not being run in years, they would fill up the engine with diesel fuel as well as pouring it into each cylinder then let sit sit for several days.

I know from first hand experience that Marvel Mystery oil is very good product. It does free up sticky valves and piston rings. I have also used it for oil thinning in my engine crankcase oil for deep sub-zero freezing weather. It works very well.

Toyota had a few years where they had oil burning problems. They actually went back and fixed the issue in quite a lot of the affected cars which I believe had to do with low-compression piston rings (less friction, better fuel economy, increased oil consumption). However, if you keep oil in i, it will still run just about forever, but you will probably never break it of being an oil crackhead.

Cool experiment on the Corolla. It would seem MMO does work. Thanks for showing folks how to do a proper oil change.

Previous video in this series: Seafoam vs. Stuck piston rings - bottom up approach: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q5kEbu7lXG8.html Next video in this series: Motor Flush vs. Stuck Piston Rings: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-h00tNeTEiVg.html Entire oil burning experiment playlist: ru-vid.com/group/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj

Get underneath the car and check the area around the rear main seal. Also check the oil pan gasket and oil drain plug for leaks. That’s a lot of oil loss. You would smoke a bunch and your catalytic converters will be smoking for sure from oil depositing on it. Also, regularly replace your pcv valve as well as replace your vacuum lines and vacuum line caps.

A decent explanation for this typically has to do with both the position of the ring packs as well as if they are a little stuck or not at any given time. As well as the ring gaps and tension. Don't forget piston to cylinder wall clearance.

Dave: have you tried replacing the PCV valve? I wonder if your consumption issue might be a gummed up PCV valve allowing you to pull too much vacuum on the crankcase and sucking oil out of the engine. It is a long shot, but PCV valves are cheap.

Australian experience. My brother has a Corolla - earlier model than yours - with more than 450,000 kiliometers (280,000 miles) - engine untouched and unmodified, and uses Castrol GTX High Mileage Engine Oil - 15W-50 for all his oil changes which he does at every 5,000 km (3,000 miles) with a filter change as well. The car uses a very tiny amount of oil in that time. Not enough used to require topping up. I think a specific high mileage oil for older engines - usually higher viscosity such as 15w40 or 15w50 or even 20w40 or 20w50 would be beneficial. We don't have any seriously cold weather in Adelaide, Australia so that might be a factor for you. Following your experiments with interest. Cheers from Adelaide, Australia

These cars a definitely sensitive to extended oil change intervals. In my instance, it seems like the more miles I travel, the more oil it will start to consume in the interval. The other thing to consider is changing your PCV valve regularly, and probably more frequent if you are running extended intervals on the oil(changing it every 30k mile or when you start to see a spike in oil consumption). I usually change my oil and filter around 7k miles(M1/Kirkland Full Syn Oil and M1 filter), but I'm thinking of stepping it down to 5k though because of a lot of idle time in traffic. Currently doing piston soak with MMO, and planning to keep soaking them routinely throughout the week

I have found that 20W-50 reduced my oil consumption by about 70 percent in a oil burner. And it ran and started fine in cold weather in NE Ohio.

You likely have damage to the cylinder walls or bore and ring wear causing blow-by. That could be one reason why the oil is so dark looking. There is carbon from the combustion process getting in the oil and probably quite a bit. Especially when considering how much oil you are adding, the oil should not look anything close to burnt. MMO is best used as a preventative before damage occurs. Unfortunately it won't add metal back where it once was. Good try, and interesting experiment. Some of these Toyota 4 cylinders had problems with wear even under the best conditions.

Top dead center works even better if you pressure up the cylinder with an air hose. Good stuff.

T his has got to be the most through video related to any oil additive I’ve seen. I don’t know how I found you, but Dave, you are fantastic.

I forgot what the video was about because I got drawn into dancing to the background music! Lol Seriously, good video.

Dave this has been an excellent and scientific experiment which is rare on you tube. Thank you. Some years ago I had my 1zzfe 2001 corolla identical to yours even in color, which was burning oil at your rate. I tried a week of lacquer thinner then oil change. No improvement. then MMO then oil change like you did top end. No change. I read about Toyota's recall a few decades back for piston replacement with more and larger oil return holes in the pistons. I decided to pull the head and do that fix. Stupidly I left my head alone because valves and lash were fine. No Change! Now what? So off with the head again and I decided to add a reman head out of CAL from a respected shop. Should have done that the first time! I am now up to 2500 miles and am down just a small amt from full. Success! It was the valve seals! Off with your head dave. It is such a simple repair which cost me just over $600. You can pull your pistons while you are at it which is an easy job with a MT. Maybe even throw in a clutch which I did. My odometer is just turning 300K miles. These cars are so good otherwise that they are worth fixing. After my in car rebuild over a weekend, my mileage is 41-44. very pleased and no oil burning. The oil is still clean.. hope this helps you. You can do a timing chain as well which I also did. I did rod and cam bearings but not crank BTW.

Your editing is on point. Good stuff.

I noticed in my car that if you drive more aggressively the oil consumption goes up so you must keep this in mind when doing tests to keep it controlled.

I talked to chemist worked for specialty oil company told me the best thing to clean the inside of an engine was pure petroleum and heat. He said employees of the oil company would buy expensive neglected cars burning oil and smoking, run the engine with conventional oil at max temp around 250 degrees changing the oil and repeat several times to clean them out. I have owned a couple of these oil burners, I use conventional 10w30 winter and 10w40 in summer with a quart of Lucas, it is a pure petroleum product, I always use premium oil filter. Mine all got better over time too the point they only used 1-2 quarts between oil change 3-4 thousand miles. Problem did not happen in a couple thousand miles, so will take 10s of thousands to make it better with out mechanical intervention.

Hey Dave I have the exact same car 2002 Toyota Corolla. It has 320,000 miles on it. I’ve been a technician for 37 years. Enjoyed the video you did a great job on trying to use different products. I have done all of those myself. I will pass this information onto you could be helpful. So modern Japanese cars now come with a different type of ring on the piston they’re called low friction or low effort rings. It helps the horsepower and efficiencies of the engine which turns into a better deal economy. Because the rings have less tension they lose most of the ability to wipe the cylinders dry from the oil because they’re weaker. This is why you had a lower compression on some of the cylinders and your test. Once the car warms up everything expands it’s normal. The more aggressive you drive the vehicle or at a higher RPM you will use more oil. Versus If you were in slower traffic or idling time. This is why you will get a different amount of oil usage pending on your driving condition. This is why you do not see much change from the farm or anything else. This is a common problem that I see constantly with high mileage Japanese or Korean vehicles today. I just don’t want them to go 500,000 miles anymore like they used to. Ps. A car company today can I stay in business if they make a car last so long you won’t buy a new one.

Yamalube Ring Free. Real popular amongst Marine guys and i know some Motorcycle Mechanics that swear by it. There's also BG EPR which is advertised as a Ring Cleaner but i dont have any experience with that. I also suggest really romping on it, get the pistons and rings really heated up and perhaps the expansion will help. Running a Diesel oil may help as well with the added detergents they use. Also not sure if you've changed the PCV valve in a while but a stuck PCV valve can cause oil consumption from excessive crankcase pressure. As long as the PCV valve rattles, it's not stuck.

Use the highest Flashpoint oil like pennzoil ultra platinum mixed with MOA oil treatment to reduce oil consumption assuming your pcv valve is working properly.

That poor dipstick is getting a work out.😁

nice video. great editing. Any chance you can make one with ticker oil + Lucas oil treatment ( the thick one, 20% delution)! I always wanted to try that.

That oil change, MMO really did some cleaning. That small sample you took in the bolt bin looks bad. That’s a good thing. MMO is a mild cleaner and won’t plug up the oil pick up screen.

Doing a wet and dry compression test with the MMO in would have been very nice to see.

If it was my car..I would substitute one quart of oil with a can of Engine Restore and see if that fixes the oil burning problem. I've used Engine Restore for many years on older engines and it really helps. Another product I use is Lucas Oil which I add at every oil change. But try the Engine Restore and see if it solves your oil burning isse.

Good info. Thanks for posting the experiment.

I Had chevy cavalier burned a little oil pulling a 5x8 trailer. At just over 200k a GM tech told me to use Rotella 15 40 diesel oil. It greatly reduced oil consumption. Engine was still running strong at over 330k. Im also from SC

Appreciate all your effort. Thanks

I went through a lot of this on my Saturn. Exact same scenario where it would use a random amount. Turns out if I kept the engine under 2k rpms, it didn't burn hardly any oil.

I had 78 chevy truck inline 6.using bardahl prevent burning oil.engine inside unclean, tiring engine from junkyard. Put engine in. When i pour in bardahl help cleansing it increase up 200 more miles.warn you it will coming great big white smoke if cloud. Every stop at gas fill with 5vquart of oils everytime.i had this truck with 4vwheelers forv6 months.its toughest tiring truck even tired transmission still good running truck.

I had a car like that. I use to go to the gas station and say fill the oil and check the gas.

Interesting stuff. You might have already read this particular suggestion (so I apologize): using Techron with some normal/medium high concentration BUT NOT driving the car a lot, instead letting it sit more time than you drive it. Say if there are 400 miles in the tank you spread them across 1-1.5 months, instead of quickly burning through the gasoline. This has helped me with my 2015 Audi Q5. It still burns oil, of course! However, not at the 600-700 miles a quart, but at 1,300-1,500 miles a quart. Once even 1,888 miles/quart. I assume the Techron gets past the piston rings downward and helps soak them. With time - not with driving - it begins to have effect. But this needs to be repeated two times, and then new oil change (your oil is always new in this car I guess). Once the piston rings clog up again, the new cycle begins. 😕 To add the final touch, adding Gumout (which has PEA) into the oil crankcase will send the PEAs to piston rings from the bottom as well, for a few hundred miles - but give some time for the car to just sit parked so that they soak up.

A dry and wet compression test while cold will give you all the information to diagnose your oil consumption. If it stays the same (pressure) as dry on wet it is upper end, if wet increases pressure it is the bottom end. Take you valve cover off and look at the valve train condition.

Have you tried Restore CSL? It can help with sealing the cylinder walls and rings for tighter seal and is a good lubricant too.

So far, Marvel Mystery Oil has had the best results - less than half a quart gone in more than 300 miles.

I have a Pontiac Vibe which is the same as a Toyota Matrix. Or, so I was told. It also uses a lot of oil. The story is that Toyota reduced the ring pressure to get better fuel mileage. After several thousand miles the rings get very weak and allows oil to bypass.

Hello there. I have a 2005 5.3L automatic 4x4 Yukon with 223,000 miles. It holds 6 qts of oil. I changed oil (10w30 conventional) and filter (walmart brand base filter) before a 6,500 mile mostly intestate trip from CO mountains to Mid-Atlantic to South and then back up to CO mountains. In the first 4,000 miles of trip Yukon burned 1.75 quarts of oil. Before making the last 2,500 miles of trip (uphill to CO) I added .75 quart MMO (conventional formula) to bring level to Full. It burned none in 2,500 miles to and around CO before I changed the oil/filter. So it went from burning 1.75 qts in 4,000 miles mostly downhill driving to not burning any in the next 2,500 miles of uphill and mountain driving. On the trip I averaged between 16.8 and 18.1 mpg, checked by gallons and miles tracking and compared to vehicles MPG gauge. The computer was very close, always within .1 to .2 mpg. Can someone explain this dynamic? I'm going to test it again on another 3,500 mile road trip soon to South and back to CO again. If I have to add a quart I'm going to add 1 qt MMO to see if it stops the consumption again. Peace!

Marvel mystery oil will free up tarnished internals but it won't fix worn cylinder walls and ring damage fron using cheap Walmart oil. Those engines have hypereutectic pistons. They swell as it gets warmer and shrink when it cools off. Your most oil usage will be when it's cool to fix thet engine youll need ti rip it down and gauge the cylinder walls snd see how much it needs bored snd add new pistons and rings checking ring end gaps as you go.

You really need to add MMO to each cylinder, take out all spark plugs first the pour a few ounces into each cylinder. Turn engine over a few times. Pour in another few ounces into each cylinder. Wait overnight or 8 hours, repeat MMO treatment, make sure you turn engine over a few times with spark plugs out. Do it twice and it should get all carbon out of all the oil control rings. Install spark plugs and run engine for a hour or so on freeway. Not traffic. 😊

I use MMO in my engine only as a safe flush solution. Because the viscosity is lost when you add whole MMO quart. Also since its deep cleaning all the sludge and carbon it will be black for sure when draining and you will lose power due to this slow flush. You did clean it out well throughout the video 😎👌 hopefully some oil stabilizer or some anti friction additives help. Obviously people are gonna say is get a new engine lol but to his or her own.

Really well structured and complete test. Thank You. Could be that the oil is going someplace else. It is surely not leaking as the bottom of the motor is spotless. Could be the PCV system, valve guide seals, blockage of the oil return holes in the head or ??? If the motor has ever been overheated it could be that the rings have lost their tension and become rubbery. If so, the only fix would be new rings. The list goes on and on including cylinder walls with too much taper from wear or worn ring lands on the pistons. Good luck and if you ever solve the issue please post the solution. That is a LOT of oil usage. The MMO probably did a great cleaning job for you.

I also tried Marvel Mystery Oil on my 03 Corolla. Ended up having to replace the valve cover gasket, as it must have loosened gunk blocking leaks around the gasket. 😲

I have the same car as you with 207k on it. For years I was burning 1/4 quart In 700 miles which made me angry. It took me a long time but I figured it out. My route is a highway drive through the mountains, I drive it 3x a month. Here's the cause, if I drive 65mph or less, I burn nothing. When I drive 80-85 I burn oil. This is posted speed limit 85mph in beaver Utah so no complaints please. Tachwise, its sustained over 3k rpm which burns oil. Are you driving fast or do you have the overdrive defeat turned on?? See if that helps, when I first figured it out I thought it couldn't be what I thought, nope.. thats it 100%. After seeing how much you're burning I feel really good, I no longer want to buy another car, you helped me Thank You!

Good info on the kirkland/Walmart oil, the two brands i was deciding between

Even though I’m not real big into that motor flush, given your situation and my experience I would do it. Then do a short term flush after maybe 200 miles with cheaper oil then add good quality oil and Rislone to the engine. With your engine being a 4 cyl i’ve seen good results from Rislone when it was used at a dealership. I’ve used it once and liked it. Surprised MMO didn’t give more results. I have used it a lot in some of my MB’s with higher compression and i did see a noticeable difference in engine operation and fuel economy. I keep them tuned up well but it still made a positive difference. Best of luck.

Hi there, Claus from Sweden herr, use a 2001 Corolla as a daily driver to work.Used a lot of pil, still burns oil but not that much anymore! My solution was a couple of oilchanges with good quality oil to flush THE engine, new oilchange with part synthetic 10w/40 and a new pcv-valve, the old was stucked! Now i have to top it of once a month or every 2500 km with 1 liter instead as before once a week!! My advice is a bit thicker oil and a pcv-valve check!! Good luck!

Try Mercury power tune, I’ve used it on four stroke outboard motors with low compression and have seen huge improvements, I’ve also used on a mower that smoked and burnt oil badly and after a couple of treatments with power tune, it ran like new.

I would try some engine restore that's what I did after doing everything you've done and it's the only thing that really helped

I would try also STP high mileage oil additive. It stopped oil consumption completely on my Ford f150 4.2l v6. It may take 2 bottles of STP.

So the sin of thicker oil is greater than burning qts. Of oil??? Amazing!

have you tried changing / cleaning your pcv valve? A stuck / gummed up pcv will cause oil issues as well.

If your theory about the oil consumption happening during engine warm up is true, do you think putting a manually controlled block heater on it might help?

Likely the PCV. The test might have been more decisive if that were changed after the MMO test?

I doubt that sticking ring are the issue . Toyota had a big recall because the oil recovery holes in the pistons were too small to begin with. They plugged with oil varnish. The fix is new pistons and rings . No reboring

I have used MMO quite bit on my airplane. First, you need to realize that MMO is basically a 5 weight oil with phosphorus added for anti-wear. It is designed to blow through the rings and the valves to keep them clean not sticking. Therefore when there is MMO in the oil the oil consumption will always be higher. Second, I don;t think you know how much oil is getting burned and how much is leaking. I had a leaky front main oil seal in my 1997 Celica, which has pretty much the same engine as that Corolla, and it was leaking about a quart every 1000 miles when I took it apart to replace the seal, replace the water pump (as merely a precaution) and replace the timing belt. Finally, my 97 Celica is the only Toyota I have ever seen where the owner's manual states that Some Oil Consumption Is Normal.

The irregular oil burning can be caused by blow by and may worsen depending on fuel quality and harder driving conditions. Also, the PCV system working well factors into the amount of oil burning caused by blow by.

Another reason for high oil consumption could be a blocked positive crankcase ventilation valve. If this thing gets stuck, the crankcase cannot breathe, & it can pressurise the crankcase, thus causing high oil consumption. Replace the spark plugs while you're at it.

I have a 1978 Toyota Corolla SW equipped with the 3TC hemi pushrod 1.8L engine. With 140, 000 miles on it, oil consumption is about 1qt/1200 miles. I change the engine oil at 1500 miles with filter using conventional oil adding a qt of Rislone that I've been using for years. The engine is simple/reliable/durable and highly modifiable which is why I kept it for 33 yrs being the 2nd owner. They were simple cars of the day.

We had great results with a single treatment of MMO in a large displacement air cooled engine. Cleared excess oil consumption up quickly and in a single treatment.

At this point, you're getting really good at checking oil levels. 🤣🤣

great video,i like the way you did this. I have a 94 Honda civic 4 cly.bought it new.AT 500,000 it ran hot on me,and started burning oil,1 quart every 250 miles.This i let go for 2 months then decided to do water pump head gasket and rings. when i took out the pistons i found the compression rings where free,but the oil control were gummed up,i took them off,THEN i noticed the OIL RETURN HOLES WERE COMPLETELY CLOGGED UP all 6 on every piston.I was shocked,i cleaned them out by hand with a drill bit,flex honed the cylinders and PUT BACK IN STOCK sized rings.3,000 miles later at the oil change it was 1/2 quart down,it now has 540,000 miles and only uses 1/2 qt every 3,000 miles.IT was pumping oil after it got hot .original block and head,and bearings.even had some cly crosshatch pattern left in it when i honed it ,amazing.motor.

Thank you sir, great video

Your experiments are very entertaining from the compression readings you may have a burnt valve and possibly bad valve seals

I miss my 1992 Toyota Corolla DX (sold in 2014 after 198K + miles). Thanks for sharing.

I had a Corolla like that mine burned little oil but I used oil additives and it helped with the oil burning those are good little cars and oil at Walmart is cheap enough to keep topping it off . Great video by the way !

I am using this in my gas religiously. And exactly by the recommendations too much or too little not good. Your experiment would give you even better results you're doing this too

My friend you did the good job with detailed information for many people's thanks

Honestly older engines wear out internally sometimes it’s the oil control rings or the seals start to leak a few good options is use 10-40 oil that will slow down the oil burning , use Lucas oil stabilizer , or engine restore and change your pcv valve that should slow down the oil burning or even use mmo in your crankcase over time you will see improvements .

MMO wasn't going to help this issue, I am guessing the rings are shot. So adding MMO would only make things worse as you're thinning the oil even more. My suggestion is to step up to a thicker weight oil all together. Like a 10w-40. That would help build a better seal in the pistons. Also try a can of engine restore, although I am betting by now you no longer have the car. I would imagine it ate a catalytic converter by now.

Risolone high mileage engine treatment actually works.

Dave my name is Mike.I really enjoyed watching your video it was a great experiment.thanks for your hard work in making this...I am extremely familiar with your problem... you are a victim of Toyota not manning up to a factory problem they had in the 1zz engine family.toyota used low tension rings on these engines to minimize friction and therefore reduce drag on the engine resulting in increasing fuel economy... unfortunately the rings were a little too low tension and it resulted in oil blow by... unfortunately the only way you will eliminate the problem is to pull the motor and change the f@#king rings...it's a common well known problem and you did nothing wrong this is a factory defect that Toyota will not acknowledge..

Try using 10/30 Non synthetic oil. I suggest Valvoline high mileage oil. Synthetic oil consumption is more than regular oil anyway.

considering the age and mileage in your car, you should be using a premium high mileage oil. appears you’re only using a pure synthetic. non high mileage oils in higher mileage vehicles will combust a lot more than high mileage oils, which will contribute to oil loss. i’ve tested this out myself and am experiencing good results. also, MMO should help eliminate rattling noises in your engine if you had any. I HIGHLY recommend you use an OIL STABILIZER to help eliminate oil loss, something else I do as well. lucas oil stabilizer or motor honey work really well. just add about 15% oil stabilizer, or about .8 quarts in place of standard oil in next oil change and you’ll notice a big difference.

I use a bottle of the blue STP oil treatment and 5oz of Motorkote with my Supertech Full Synthetic oil every oil change. I have 190,000 miles and have used it since new. I gave the engine 20,000 miles to break in. I change the oil at 10,000 mile intervals and it doesn't use any oil to speak of between oil changes. It actually made my engine quieter than when new. My daughter has a 94 Corolla and went 13,000 miles on her oil change and needed 1/2 a quart of Supertech Full Synthetic before coming back to Michigan from Kansas. Dad changes the oil not her. I alway use the Cheap Supertech oil filters because your oil filter is there to catch the big stuff. Oil bypasses the filter when cold until it gets thin enough to flow through the filter. I have used the cheap no name filters for 30 years, most are made by Purolator. Stay away from Fram they are poorly made and quality control is crap.

For sticking rings I've had good luck with Rislone.. If it's using oil due to worn rings and or polished piston bore.. I'd probably suggest a little heavier oil, or substitute a quart of oil with a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer.

Thanks for the tests Dave. Saved mw a lot of wasted money and time trying to unstick my rings on my 140,00 mile 99 saturn sl2. I use a quart every 700 miles or so. They supposedly had a bad piston/ring design back in that year. My wife's 96 Saturn SL2 doesn't use a drop of oil in 3,000 miles. Just have to live with it.:)

Hot oil is thinner, plus the MMO lowers viscosity. That’s making it past oil rings.

IT's a complex issue, especially with Corolla's which are notorious for this issue. If you catch the stuck oil control ring issue early on and use a product such as MMO either in the crankcase or doing repeated top cylinder heat soaks, then there is a good chance you will be able to un-stick the oil control rings before there is significant piston sleve damage. On the other hand the reverse holds true as well. If the issue has been ongoing for a long time, especially when the engine has hundreds of thousands of miles and no real effort made to correct the seized oil control rings during that time, then at that point the damage is done, it's no longer just the seized oil control rings but rather it's also the scaring that has occurred to the piston sleves which can vary quite a bit from one sleeve to another depending on how carbon built up around and underneath the individual seized oil control rings which in turn will determine how far out of seat that particular ring gets manipulated which in turn how much piston sleeve scarring will occur in that particular sleeve. A contributing factor to that will be clogging piston oil return passages which can also be very random as far as which piston that will occur most or least on. 3 sleeves might suffer much less scarring if the piston oil return passages on the pistons in those sleeves were able to maintain at least a minimal amount of flow, whereas if one of the 4 pistons ends up with a clogged oil return passage then that particular sleeve will suffer significant metal scarring as there will be no barrier left between the sleeve wall and the slightly out of spec oil control ring that has been contorted due to carbon building up in the oil control ring seat, forcing it outwards beyond what it should be. That particular piston will then show a significant difference in compression versus the other 3. So if you are at the point where significant sleeve scarring has occurred, even if you do manage to free up the seized oil control rings via additive, the oil consumption will not be halted due to the fact that the scarred up piston sleeves will no longer allow for a proper oil seal even though the oil control rings have been freed up. That is most likely what is going on in this situation. Every time I've encountered this issue which does not respond to these measures, once that engine is disassembled the evidence is very clear as to why it was too late for that particular engine. The cylinder sleeve scarring was just too great even for a freed up oil control ring to be able to get a proper seal against. Both Seafoam and MMO when used correctly can and do indeed free-up seized oil control rights, but neither Seafoam nor MMO can correct for scarred cylinder sleeve walls due to running an engine with seized oil control rings for many miles before a the problem is corrected.

I definitely would recommend trying BG engine cleaner kit on issues like this. It's worth the money.

man just slap a new oil filter at 5000k miles and forget the oil change, nice video btw.

“Un-sticking” the rings is one thing. Even if you can accomplish that, you CANNOT reverse the damage that the stuck rings caused to the cylinder bore! This, alone, will perpetuate the problem of oil consumption.

Need to consider the viscosity. Worn engines will burn more oil, the thinner the oil is. I personally would not be using full synthetic if your going through that much oil. You will burn more and your wallet will get lighter too. Your oil never gets a chance to get dirty or over used to a breakdown point, so using synthetic for longer life is a waste. Try regular flavor Penzoil and I bet your compression will come back a bit.

How do you know it’s stuck rings? I thought the same on my 350 ci 73 vette. Turns out the intake gaskets were sucking oil from the lifter valley. No magic oil treatment would have fixed that. You need to do a compression and leak down test. Could be worn valve seals also.

Try Berryman b12 chemtool next! Take out spark plugs and do an overnight piston soak and make a video of it!

I would definitely try Rislone Engine Restore and thereafter I would be regularly mixing 20% of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer with each oil change, while at the same time using 50ml of Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant with each and every gas fill-up. Try this formula and watch things change for better. The only worry is that once you've corrected the problem, the fun of searching for that perfect fix will be over lol. Btw, liked n subscribed.

My Chrysler 2.7L engine disclosed to me last year that it was losing oil. My first response was to treat it as a leak. I had experienced enough success with various "stop leak" products in the radiator and the A/C as to choose to begin my effort by adding stop-leak to the oil. That didn't work. The car has been used for long road trips this year of greater than 500 miles each. Two weeks ago the trip showed a loss of oil that required me to add about 12 oz of oil to reach "full". This weekend the trip showed no serious loss of oil. My suspicion is that the rings were stuck to the piston and the persistent high speed highway trips finally loosened them. I've also been measuring my fuel economy in this car. The most recent weekend trip also showed an improved fuel economy. Moving forward, I'll be using 20% MMO with each oil change.

Remember that when you're going uphill more often, you're loading the engine and you have more vacuumed and that makes you use more through the PCV system. I think you may be missing at least part of the culprit here. Marvel Mystery Oil you only need to use about a week before you're going to change the oil. Tends to work more than well enough. A quart of transmission fluid for that last week before you change oil would also work well

Use the chemical Engine Restorer by Restore. It is sold in most auto parts. Also, buy a new PCV. On your last video you only sprayed it, if you are going to reuse it, should leave it in parts cleaner for a few hours. It is easier, and cheap enough to replace. PCV are a check valve that needs to operate smoothly. You can try heavier oil, probably 15w-40 Shell Rotella.

Dave, great videos . Your experiments are done well. Others have mentioned PCV valve / it’s cheap and easy to replace . At this point, your #2 and #3 cylinder walls may be scored. I would use 20w-50 in South Carolina in all seasons but the very coldest of winter. I know a lot of guys would say no way, but why not? The engine is getting close to the end of its usable service life. I applaud your efforts to keep the Corolla running. It’s a great car- wishing you good luck with it .

I am a converted believer in Marvel mystery oil!!! I drive a 2012 Acura TL AWD with the 3.7 L engine. My car was burning just under a half a quart of oil every 1000 miles. If you do a quick Google search you’ll find that many of the 3.7 L Acuras have oil consumption problems due to carbon build up on the rings. Acura even issued a recall, but they won’t do the repair unless it exceeds a quart per 1000 miles. So at .45qt per 1000 mi., Acura told me to get lost! On a last hope I watched a couple of Marvel mystery oil videos. I tried it using the bottom up process. My car is now at 3000 miles on the trip counter and the oil is still at the top of the dipstick hash mark. MMO UNSTUCK THE RINGS IN MY ACURA!!!!!

Great video bravo.

It's your emissions / pcv system. Follow your Check Engine Light. Reduce to positive crankcase pressure and stop the excess blow by.

Hey have you tried swaping to conventional motor oil, and if its still really bad you could always try 10w-30 conventional oil, i have this same motor and this helped my engine burn less oil

Valve stem seals along with worn compression and oil control rings

I've added transmission fluids, gear oil (just 1 qt), vegetable oil, power steering fluid, and even brske fluid to my oil crankcase before in emergencies and drove it thousands of miles before changing. Didn't seem to have any negative affects.