It is amazing how well thought out many Woodpeckers tools are. The accessory kit allowing the use of so many fence variations demonstrates how a smaller manufacturing operation can beat the competition in adaptability and innovation. Woodpeckers at its core is about versatility in manufacturing, so they can iterate a product quickly and ramp up small batch production. Although not everything they make is perfect, they have the ability to respond with new designs quickly. As long as Woodpeckers also commits to the green energy economy, I will continue to be a loyal customer. Nowadays, I put my money where my mouth is: I look at the carbon footprint and act accordingly.
Love my flip stop. When I need a cabinet to be exterior dimensions of 35” and want to cut a bottom to fit between the sides, the flip stop rocks. Since 3/4 ply isn’t 3/4, I set my fence to 35”. Then using two scraps of ply, I set the flip stop at 35” less the two scraps. Then I cut the bottom to fit - a perfect fit every time.
Ordered the Rip-Flip Stop system designed for the SawStop saws and it fit well on my Grizzly G0651 cabinet saw. I only had to replace the rail bolts on the saw with longer versions (M8 x 1.25, 1 inch long) to accommodate the extra thickness added by the Woodpecker brackets. The system works great!
I came to make the same exact comment; SawStop version fit my g0651, and as you said, was just a couple bucks at lowes to replace the rail bolts. I actually used threaded rod of the same size, with to flat/round top nut things (Round weld nuts?). Give a nice solid registration off the rip-flips.
Patrick, it will fit any saw that has a Biesemeyer or Biesemeyer clone fence. That is...a fence where an angle iron connects to the saw and a rectangular tube connects to the angle iron.
you guys really need to design the stops to go into incra fence rails as well.. I was just looking at my saw with incra rails and system, and I could modify the front of the fence with drop downs that will touch the stops.. The only problem is the track in front fits 3/8 bolt not 1/4. If you made the stop with a 5/16 tightening bolt and used the 5/8x 5/16 t track nut you sell, then you have another system that can be sold as well. Hint, Hint really easy to look into!!!
I just purchased the incra fence for my saw and was just saying to myself “this rip flip is not needed on the incra”. Due to the nature of how easy going back to a previous set on the incra, due to how the incra fence registers itself so easily. How can the rip flip help in the incra in ways the incra cannot already do?
This looks simpler then the kit for the sawstop. Now what about a saw with a 52" long table? On the 32" version It almost looks like you would only need 1 track and be able to do a lot with just that. Less parts lower cost more people the opportunity to buy one, or in his case 2 saws 1 short track on each saw He can either move the flip heads or order 2 extra flip heads. Also I can see that track usefull for jigs or other oprations. Like on the back rails to hold over table dust collection parts or a fast way to add an extention table. Maybe a longer infeed surface for miter gages or crosscut sleds. Or just for long stock cuts.
I have an older Biesemeyer fence with a 42" rip capacity but the width of the fence to the right of the switch is about 54". Would I need a 50" kit? Or does the 30" have enough track? I just received my Exact-90 miter gauge a couple hours ago, What a solid tool! Can't wait to try it!
Jay, the total length of track on the 30" model is 56". The 50" has a total of 68". If your switch is near the rail, you don't want to put the RipFlip track in front of it. Sounds like a 30" kit will work for you.
I have a Vega Fence, which uses a 2" diameter chromed steel tube for the front fence rail. Will this fit to my Vega fence? What else do I need to make it work?
We haven't tried it with a Vega fence, and working from an old memory of how it mounts, I don't think it will work. Send a few photos to mailroom@woodpeck.com and ask them to forward them to Nate and Jeff. We'll take a look and see if there's any chance.
I have an Accurate technology digital scale on my 34-450 unisaw with 52” beismeyer fence. I can be precise to 1/64” repeatedly. I don’t see the need for both systems on my fence. Am I missing something. I use this digital system both in my home shop and the small two man non CNC shop where I work building custom cabinetry and furniture. I applaud woodpeckers for their continued drive to help wood workers. I am not knocking this system. I am just questioning the need for it in conjunction with my current digital scale. I am all ears.
It will fit any saw that has a Biesemeyer or Biesemeyer clone fence. That is...a fence where an angle iron connects to the saw and a rectangular tube connects to the angle iron.
It will fit any saw that has a Biesemeyer or Biesemeyer clone fence. That is...a fence where an angle iron connects to the saw and a rectangular tube connects to the angle iron.
Woodpecker needs to put their engineers hat on to make the rip stop compatible with the thousands of Unifences on Unisaws. Particularly Unifences with the Peachtree Uni-T- Fence option.
I have an Industrial cabinet model SawStop saw with the optional T-glide fence and have added a Wixey digital fence position indicator. The Wixey is very useful as it provides an extremely accurate indication of where the fence is. However, it doesn't have the dead-stop feature of the Rip-Flip. Now that Woodpeckers has expanded your Rip-Flip for other fences, is there a way to install the Rip-Flip and keep my Wixey, even if I have to relocate the Wixey a bit lower and change the fence-to-Wixey connector? I'd attached a photo but there doesn't seem to be any way to do so in a comment.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thanks for your reply. I could not find an iGaging DRO with a length greater than 36" and they're not cheap, which is a consideration because I already have a Wixey that is very useful. You're obviously correct in that in the standard configuration for both the Rip-Flip and the Wixey they are located in the same place. In thinking about why I would want both, the following occurs to me: - The Wixey is extremely useful if one wants to cut a very precisely-measured cut length. However, there is no built-in repeatability except re-doing the measurement, which works but takes more time. It isn't always practical to cut the same length from different boards and then come back to the same, now-shorter boards and make a second cut. There is no way, at least on my Wixey model, to use the distance sensor as a stop. - The Rip-Flip, on the other hand, provides such an exactly repeatable stop for each of the stops. It also provides a dado-width control that doesn't exist with the Wixey. So, it makes sense to see if there is a way to have both, and I believe that there is. The Wixey bar is a little less than 1" thick and the Rip-Flip bar appears to be about 1.5" thick. Therefore, I can mount them on the same right-angle bracket that is bolted under the rip fence tube on my Sawstop table saw by making a bracket that is long enough to accommodate both. I'll have to make a new attachment for the Wixey sensor, but it doesn't have much sliding resistance so the attachment doesn't have to be particularly massive. The Rip-Flip should be mounted above the Wixey because the Rip-Flip stops have to be against the base of the rip fence. The Wixey will have to be mounted low enough so that when the Rip-Flip stops are turned downward they don't interfere with the Wixey sensor or the new, longer bar between the Wixey sensor and the rip fence. There is more than enough room under both for me to reach the saw on/off switch and turn the blade raising/lower knob. Consequently, I placed an order for the Rip-Flip original, as my Sawstop uses the Sawstop T-glide fence. If you wish, I'll submit a picture when it's done, although I have no idea how to include a pix in a reply. Brian
@@briansack7920 Did you figure this out yet? I also have the Wixey set up, but on a Harvey saw. I already bought the Rip Flip and am trying to figure out how to add that as well.
Not sure I understand why you would want both an iGaging digital fence locater and a RipFlip. They both allow you to reposition the table saw fence exactly back where it was, you just have to remember the reading on the digital device; so one is digital and the other is mechanical. If I've ripped a board and then moved the fence and then have to go back and cut another piece to match, I use the cut piece to set my fence at the same distance from the blade; always works for me. Having said that, I do have an iGaging planer vertical scale installed on my DeWalt 735 and I find it very useful.
Not familiar with the Fox Classic, but it will fit most fences where an angle iron connects to the saw and a rectangular tube connects to the angle iron.
I bet its really expensive huh? most Woodpeckers stuff is way beyond my budget. Before I check the link for a price, my guess is $200. Ok, now lets see...
Martin watch the product video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-V4N0pd1EkTM.html and the first Deep Dive ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y8ok6HegbhY.html to see all the things this can do. I use the micro-adjusting function almost every time I use my saw now.
I've been using the Rip-Flip on my Unisaw (2010 version, Model 36L-336) for almost a year now. I use the Rip-Flip a lot, much more than I thought I would. As Jeff pointed out it is so much easier for making minute adjustments than giving the fence a tap with the palm of your hand. You almost always overshoot then have to back up and start again. Not with the Rip-Flip. You can dial in that half a thou adjustment with ease. I plan to get another pair of stops so I can have two fence settings stored and still have a pair of stops for cutting dados. When I have a bunch of different width cuts to make, I set a stop to memorize a setting exactly. I stick a temporary blue tape label on the stop and write on it with a Sharpie to remind me what the setting is. This makes it simple to return to that exact fence setting without even thinking about it or even knowing what the distance is. It's too bad there is not a way to adapt the Rip-Flip to contractor saws that don't have a T-square style fence. I'm sure those thousands of saw owners would love to have one.
