Congratulations on a very well done repair! Thank you fellow model railroaders, with the replacement gear parts too, because without you we would never have seen such timely success. When I see this quality of video I wonder at how the history of model railroading has been improved for all generations. Thank you for your excellent and thoughtful work and sharing!
Hindsight being 20:20 I wish I had used a KD coupler spring. I think the phosphor bronze they are made of would have been more durable. Since the aluminum foil may not last I will likely have the chance to refit down the road.
Thanks for posting this. I suspect the black resin is one of the super tough engineering resins that have recently come out for SLA printing. If it doesn't crack from the internal pressure and the stress risers created by the splines scoring the gear bore I imagine it will hold up pretty well. I've been impressed by engineering grade SLA resins for things like locomotive frames and trucks, but have not used it for gears yet. One process that would work really well for this application is SLS printing. (Selective Laser Sintering) You can get extremely tough nylon parts that are generally as good as molded parts. There wouldn't be much if any concern with the press fit interface over the splines. Shapeways offers SLS parts. Definitely let us know how it works out long term.
I will be looking at commercial 3D printing services to provide some of these options. I was afraid that filament printing would not yield small enough tooth details due to their relatively large nozzle diameters. But I would bet Shapeways would have one small enough. Thanks for the tips on these resins.
I just looked at Shapeways page on SLS and they offer two materials that seem appropriate-Nylon 12 and Nylon 6 mineral filled which seems to be a very tough one. I know nothing about this stuff so any advice you can offer will be appreciated. My main concern with filament printing is the small size of these gear teeth whereas resin printing gave excellent details there. I was also a bit concerned about nylon reading that it can be heat sensitive and get very flexible a d distort. I would not expect these gears to get all that hot but I don’t know one way or the other.
@@TheDCCGuy I just got a weird error message from RU-vid and had to re-post this reply... odd The Nylon 6 is a solid material choice here, you will never approach the heat limits of that material in an HO locomotive gearbox. It's really strong, long wearing stuff. I wouldn't hesitate to message them and discuss your application. They may have a better material suggestion. Just another thought, you could have a gear laser cut. That would be a really inexpensive and strong option to consider.
Hi Larry. I shall be attending Warley on the Sunday; I hope I get the chance to say hello. Larry, larry - using a hemostat! There is a proper tool for this job. I'm not entirely convinced about removing all the play in wheelsets (I know you didn't remove all of it) as the driving wheels (at least) need some lateral movement to negotiate curves, etc. Glad the 3D-printed gear wheel worked out.
The shims do not prevent lateral movement since the axles are free to move in the bearings. What I did was shim up the bearings in their slots to prevent them from moving around. I think that over time the zamak chassis castings just start to wear as a result of the reciprocating action of the drive rods. My tip on this was the black buildup on the outsides of the bearings themselves which I assume is metal oxides from the zamak.
Thank you for sharing. Very nice repair. Big shout out to those who made the gears for you, that was really nice of them. Still good people out in the model world.👍👀
My feelings too, their help was invaluable. Jeff Paul even went to the trouble of printing out the gears at multiple percentages of the original (98%, 99%, 100%, 101%, 102%) just to make sure ai had a wide range to select from.
Hallo Larry, I wan't belive that this gears really last for long. Bei 4:20 nennst du den (Kopf)-Durchmesser: 11,5mm. Das Zahnrad hat 21 Zähne, der Modul ist also 0,5. Zahnräder mit Modul 0,5 sind genormt und in praktisch beliebiger Zähnezahl wahlweise in Metall (Messing, Stahl) oder verschleißarmen Kunststoff bei einschlägigen Firmen ab Lager lieferbar. Der Preis für ein Messing-Stirnrad m 0,5; z 21 liegt bei ca. 5€. Mit einem solchen Zahnrad auf der Antriebsachse wird die Lok wohl "ewig" laufen. Best regards - Heinz
I made some resin gears for the Athearn 1960s 0-6-0 steam locomotives. The work well. I am doing one for a proto 2000 locomotive in the near future. I had to have 1 good original gear in order to make a silicone mold of it. The gears are an exact duplicate of the original gear. The difficulty in making the gear is the teeth of the gear are slightly angled in order to mesh better with the drive worm gear.
Great video, Larry. I have started dabbling in Fusion 360 and 3D printing for railroading purposes as well. Sharing your experience with Fusion 360 and your experience with slicing softwares (the printing part) would be good material for some future videos. Congratulations on your success. I am thinking of designing custom enclosures for decoder installations / wire management.
I found a video on RU-vid that showed how to use Fusion 360 to design a spur gear. There even is a plugin routine that will do all the work so all I had to do was enter the parameters and tweak them. It actually is a pretty easy program for a simple project like this.
Nope, all were resin prints. If these fail I will be checking with Shapeways to see if they have a tougher resin or filament printer that can reproduce those tiny little gear teeth like the resin printers can.
Hi Larry I think The clearance in the wheel sets has been deliberately designed to allow for side play in the wheels to allow them to negotiate the curved track. You may have trouble with derailments on the curves. On a another note - I used to live in the Blackmore Vale at Templecombe in Somerset which used to be a railway junction. Regards from Redruth Arnold
The mods I made do not affect lateral play in the drivers as the axles are free to move in the bearings. I only shimmed up the bearing slots to keep the bearings themselves from moving around so much.
As long as they were printed flat to the print bed everything should work out fine as you don’t want the layer lines going through the side of the gear
As someone who has many British locomotives in the US I am extremely interested in this experiment on the off chance after lots of hours and a rough ride to a show I may need to do this process myself
An old school thought, a guy without access to 3d printing, couldn't you make a simple mold of the gear with silicone and then pour a resin? not sure if the level of detail could be great enough to make gears that way? just thinking off to the side. Keep up the great work, I really enjoy your videos.
That actually is a backup plan. However the teeth on these gears are quite small so they may not reproduce well-sort of like making a copy of a copy. Also since the original was cracked and a tooth partly broken off I can’t use it although I do have one on my other loco of the same type. One other option though is to use the free version of Fusion 360 to create the printing file as I did and then send it to one of the 3D printing services like Shapeways who will print it for you. I am also looking into doing just that.
If anyone is really thinking or contemplating removing wheels and gears from axles, they should go ahead and get a wheel and gear puller and a quarterer to reinstall them.
I have several that came with various brass steam locos but they were all too small for the Hornby screw heads. I will be looking for the Hornby one at Warley.
@@TheDCCGuy DCC Concepts also sell a screwdriver with multiple interchangeable heads which includes a couple of hex nut extractors, I have been using that tool to remove a similar crankpin on a Rivarossi Big Boy.
One of my used and abused BLI C-16s I bought spun a rear axle wheel recently resulting in locking up the rods on that side. My efforts to get it to stay on the axle was short lived as it broke loose again and locked up the rods. I will have try something stronger. After your recent videos on short circuits I emailed DCC Concepts to inquire if they had something in circuit protection that could handle transient voltages. I got a response from Chris. "All I can say is watch this space, something due very soon that may interest you... Sorry to be so secretive but... Chris" So, while you are over there at the Warley National Model Railway Exhibition, maybe you can find out what is due soon that is secretive??
I am aware of their plans, they have been releasing a number of new products this fall and I will be showcasing some in the coming weeks. They just received the Hornby Specialty Retailer of the Year award, sort of like the annual MR awards and I think they want to build on that.
I have several of these Hornby Bulleid Pacifics in my collection, are you able to share a link to access the printer file so I can also have some of these gears made?
I’ll be happy to share the file with you. I will post it on a website I use for this purpose and you can download it there. Give me a day or two to get it uploaded. Be aware that in the file are 6 different gears that vary in diameter and tooth dimensions. I ended up using the 11.5mm diameter one as it is closest to the average diameter for my damaged gear. Current production models use a smaller 11.2-11.3mm gear so this would not work with them. The resin for the gear I ended up using is Elegoo Standard Photopolymer but if you go to a commercial printer like Shapeways they have much stronger materials and printing methods. I am considering going with SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) printing and PL6 material, just need to find time to contact them. I have no idea what they would charge. The Elegoo resin appears to be pretty common among hobbyists.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry, that would be most helpful. I am sure I am not the only one you will be helping out! (Looking forward to meeting you at the NEC, I will be helping out at the DCC Concepts stand with the Switchback Layout.)
I just tried to upload the file and the site won’t let me. Maybe at 1 MB it is too big or they don’t like the file type. At any rate if you give me an email address I will send it as an attachment. Since you will be helping DCC Concepts out you will definitely see me-Larry
Yes, you might think that as I did, however I checked their website and went though their entire list of gears. Also checked several other potential sources to no avail. These are quite unique apparently.
Why not just take a sharpie and mark the back of the wheel and bottom plate. This way you can almost exactly line everything back up . I use this when taking apart N scale locomotives and putting back together.
I have done that and also scribed a line with a sharp metal tool across the axle. And in this case I actually used a marker, but it rubbed off in the process so I just eyeballed it. The important thing is to make sure to get it quartered no matter how you do it.
@@TheDCCGuy Most people might not be aware or precise as others. They may pull those parts , drop them , or get distracted and get in a world of trouble. Also good video showing new avenues of repair on older locomotives.
When I replace it down the road I will likely do that, just didn’t have any on hand. I had a dream last night that I could have flattened brass wire to make some foil, hindsight 20:20.
Yes, all were resin prints. I wonder whether filament prints would have nozzles small enough to produce the fine resolution required for those tiny little gear teeth?
@@TheDCCGuy I have a filament printer, also called Fdm. it's quite difficult to get high detail in measurements that small. Also prints have failure points at the layers I find in fdm printing. Resin is your best option for strength and precision.
