The lock wires are a very good mod, I shudder to think about those fatigued lock tabs throwing metal into the rotating gears, it would be nice to change those loose bolt, they must be at the edge of shearing with all the stress they have been subjected to over the years.Happy New Year to you Brian. Chris B.
Happy New Year to you as well Chris. the lock tabs and poor quality bolts are a real problem on early Willys CJ's. A lot of folks put new lock tabs in and think they are doing the right thing. Not long after some of them wind up in the shop for a new ring and pinion after the bolt heads shear off and get caught in the gears. Brian
I hope I didn't come off as a troll or worse with my previous comment, I just wondered what a lock rite was and what it accomplished. Having watched your follow-up video I know understand it is a method to provide better traction in off road use. Makes sense to me now. Again, I hope I wasn't a jerk with my question below.
Your first comment was laid out perfectly, not at all in troll fashion. The lockright units are great and will always be a great help in any type of off road or on road situation.
Pretty much the same as a dana 30 Aussie locker less the double springs. Didn't it matter on the thrust washer left or right? I thought it does. I already watched the next video 1st and I had no clue on hardened washers and military grade bolts. Good info. Now I need another bolt drawer;-(
Very good videos. I have a question. I have a 1962 CJ 5 with. Dana 44. Do you know if it is a 10 spline axel? I want to order the proper Lock Right. ?2415? Amazon sells them but they say it’s made in China. Other places sell it for a lot more but don’t list where they’re made. What is your knowledge about it and what would you recommend. Thank you very much
RANK AMATEUR QUESTION: Because I am not a Jeep owner (just love watching talented people work) I have no idea what a lock rite is and how it can replace the spider gears.
Brian... Wow those loose original screws held everything together...thats a miricle it did not broke off... I am wondering if my 1970 CJ5 Dana 44 5:38 differential has the same problem. I have never open them up and believe there just as they came from the factory.. Thanks to this video ... now I know I will need special screws, washers and wire to put them back correctly. Please provide a list of parts needed and where to get them. Thanks, Juan
Hello, I asked about the lock right and axle removal in my 51 Willys and you responded; thank you. That turned out great thanks to your advice and videos; I love the traction on the farm. Would I follow this procedure up to axle removal portion if everything else looks good for a lock right install into the front?
I understand the AN6-11 but what is the size of the bolt so I can order the correct washers? You said 3/16's but is it a 3/8 size bolt/washer? Pardon my confusion. The web site does not have the drilled head listed, or they show a drilled thread bolt but not a drilled head only. AN6-11H? Could you share the detailed part numbers of bolts and washers please?
Ok. Going to duplicate exactly what you’ve done here. The bolts were obtained, the web site had the wrong ones pictured, they fixed that. So, I’m playing the devil finding the washers. The through hardened ones are not to be found. We’re these made especially for you or are they on the shelf somewhere? If you could share a part number and company that would be great. Of if you would sell 10 I would buy them. Thank you so much for the great videos and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge that has taken years to acquire.
@ Metalshaper... (hope u r still around) Where can I order a new rear diff locker for a 3A Dana 41 10 spline? My mechanic and I cannot locate any. Thnx
Happy new year to you and family Brian ! Great video as always . Thank you once again . I think your the best guy to ask since you work on these axles regularly ; can that lock pin be replaced with a pin used in C lock rear axles that thread in from the case side opposite the ring gear side . That press pin looks thick , don't know if it would work or case could could be tapped if diameter is different . Was wondering if you would even advocate such short cut upgrade . I'll admit , any time I e had to remove one of those pins , I know you've got to get a good bite on the spline head . Tap the box wrench on or your sure to strip it . Just wanted to hear from you , a guy who does this for a living and knows the job from experience . For every axle I've even opened , you've done a hundred more , at least . Thanks again . Greg
I had the chance to talk with a seasoned fastener guy once, and he told me the same thing you went over. Great info that most do not know. I also was at the right place at the right time and got a large box of mixed aircraft bolts. Took a while to sort through them, but they are some excellent bolts!! Do you have the proper AN number for the ring gear bolts or did I miss that.
The carrier is a bit rough and I didn't want to take out any material around the bolt holes. Nordlock washers work great but I don't trust anything but safety wire inside a differential. It is a bit of time and expense to do it this way but you will NEVER have a problem with your bolts if you follow what I did on this axle. Brian
Hello, You make great videos. i have a 51 cj3a with Dana 44. Do both axles have to be removed or just one for the lock right install? I bought the LR 2415 and drained the rear gear oil. everything looks good to proceed. Your help is much appreciated;
Yes both axles must be removed and the entire carrier/ring gear assembly must be removed. Ring gear has to come off of carrier in order for the pin to be installed.
I made a tool out of hollow 2"x4" steel about 4 inches long; I relieved some material for the race to pass through. It worked like a charm. Lock right is in now have to watch your video on shimming the axle again. Thanks for the great content!
These are not bolts. They would be bolts if used with nuts. These are screws because they are screwed into something. Just like wood screws are screws not bolts.