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Window AC units converted into super quiet inexpensive Houses Built Tiny Central AC 

Houses Built Tiny
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Don't hang a window unit in the wall or in a window we know all the troubles with that. And research how to clean and how often to clean a mini split. You won't want to do that either. So here is a simple solution that we use in all of our tiny houses. Under $400, easy to clean, easy to replace, quiet and effective. Why would you want to do anything else but use this type of AC in your tiny house.
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7 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 95   
@user-wf7kv8pi8k
@user-wf7kv8pi8k 2 года назад
*It’s: Pretty. Quiet. **Fastly.Cool** in my room. Works wellLittle of hassle to install was TOTALLY worth it. I’m loving it so far. I recommend watching the installation video and taking it slow~*
@heidis8713
@heidis8713 3 года назад
As someone who has been doing ac work for years (commercial and residential), I'm often disappointed, but usually horrified at the modifications people make to the units / ductwork. However, I must say, this came out pretty damn good. My only concern is that the cold air may fall straight down into the return, avoiding the part of the house that is further away. I would have liked to see the air being pulled across the space. In other words, have the return further from the register. You did address this largely by using the booster fan. Nice job!
@Jonathan-jo2xu
@Jonathan-jo2xu Месяц назад
this is exactly what i was thinking about doing to make window unit quieter!
@JackofAllTrades1
@JackofAllTrades1 Год назад
I always enjoy watching people’s creative ideas with this sort of thing. Good job!
@micahdupuis897
@micahdupuis897 6 лет назад
I REALLY like the cutting of the control board and relocating to a central location. It was a "OH! NO KIDDING?!!" moment for me :) great video! Thank you!
@user-un9lx4kp6u
@user-un9lx4kp6u 4 месяца назад
That's what I had in mind for my tiny shome and it will stay when I build the tiny house and the shome becomes office space. My fridge will stay in the concrete safe room that sits under a huge shade tree. I appreciate the explanation of how to get the plenum done right. I don't agree with the mounting location and the subsequent intake duct location but it is your design and pretty permanent so what's done is done and it is more satisfactorily done than custom fitting the unit into a wall. I like mini splits for their efficiency. If they come up with a better delivery option than the current air handlers then I would be happier with them. In my opinion , the unit should be mounted on, or just around the corner of the longest wall and at the highest possible point. The cooling port should be the most direct to the conditioned space is it provides what is needed at the temperature that it most needs to be. The return air can be piped along the wall crown, from the opposite end of the longest wall and not insulated from temperature changes. It can be drawn with a low-wattage, DC puller-fan. The end result is a unit that is more efficient but still not on par with a mini split system. Just to be clear. I would not have considered the importance of area matching and the deflectors within the plenum if not for hearing it from someone who thought that detail through and it will save people on electrical energy usage and premature failure of their AC units.
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 4 месяца назад
Thank you for your comment
@jjsiegal1
@jjsiegal1 4 года назад
WOW...what a Brilliant Project...thanks for Sharing!
@ergot57
@ergot57 7 лет назад
The extra little blower fan is a very good idea. You've simply made a Mobile Home unit from a Window unit here. If it works, you can't argue with results.
@bobcatt2294
@bobcatt2294 4 года назад
How is that build mobile?
@FloridaFrank2010
@FloridaFrank2010 7 лет назад
Love it! Some of the window ACs are rated at 12.2 EER, which is phenomenally efficient! Ease of maintenance is definitely a plus, and replaceable in a few hours, including the trip to the store =)
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 7 лет назад
FloridaFrank2010 look again in a couple of days and will show you the completed version
@Schrimpieman
@Schrimpieman 4 года назад
Absolutely Brilliant. I have a similar situation (need to condition some interior rooms with "only" about 5,000 BTU's. Mini-Split units in this size are virtually impossible to find. Googling Micro-A/C units returns some results, but too small for my application. I'll give your concept a try. Thanks!!
@The_DC_Kid
@The_DC_Kid 4 года назад
Excellent job. Intelligently thought-out and professionally constructed rather than typical "cobbled together from all manner of stuff and patched up to make it sorta work" diy. I wish all my projects came out as so well.
@dacelooper
@dacelooper 6 лет назад
Move all the cold side components behind a radiant barrier and 2inches of poly iso ridged foam. I did this with my 5000 btu window unit and effectively gave it the added efficiency that a split air unit would have. Basically just remove the blower, and polystyrene, separate the electronic control board, cut off the motor spindle to thr blower side and you should have just enough length on the copper line to strech out the distance between the cooling coils and the rest of the unit. I was able to go as far as 8 inches out! Use that space to create a barrier to the cold side of the unit, build your own intake box aroud the cooler and viola! Tip: angle your cooling coils to drip from one edge and install a media pad from an evaporative cooler for added cooling performance! Oh, and dont forget to incorporate an intake blower like a dayton 3hmh7 or 3hmj1. Most people see this over kill but when you can only fit 1200 watts of solar on your roof it changes the game.
@appleseedontheroad2296
@appleseedontheroad2296 2 года назад
Wow! Very informative and definitely making my wheel turn. Converting a shuttle bus right now and trying to find the best Solar AC setup for my build…this may be it!
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 2 года назад
We converted a 42 seat passenger shuttle bus last year into a traveling tiny house. It had a fantastic air conditioning and heating system in it already we just fixed the system that was there that ran off the diesel engines. Those are super super efficient. But of course you have to leave your engine in idle which it is designed to do. But it was more for traveling than it was for staying long-term anywhere. Insulating it was a booger bear but it turned out pretty fantastic.
@mattthomas3467
@mattthomas3467 Год назад
I very very rarely can watch RU-vid videos on anything .. usually they are an annoying waste of time, I don't want to spend six minutes to find out forty five seconds of information - however, I have to say, great video, thank you for sharing. I just needed a visual on my idea for a similar setup. Appreciate it. 👍
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny Год назад
Thank you. One of the best comments ever made. I feel the same way
@PCman50
@PCman50 3 года назад
This is absolutely brilliant .. I've been thinking of doing this for years. Now I can see it's doable. Thank you so much
@bmgbmg2696
@bmgbmg2696 7 лет назад
To complicated for me, but I always wondered if it was possible. 👍
@Vera-dc7my
@Vera-dc7my 6 лет назад
What a great way to have cooking and quiet.
@eliaskings1943
@eliaskings1943 2 года назад
Dude great idea
@Ben-it5fk
@Ben-it5fk Год назад
I know this video is old, But an alternative to modifying the control board, is to buy a smart remote hub, like the broadlink rm4 pro, and put that infront of the IR port on the AC. you can then wirelessly control the unit from inside.
@Schrimpieman
@Schrimpieman 4 года назад
....Finally (though I don't want to sound like a know-it-all), I'm just offering some constructive advice. The 10-inch round flex duct seems to be an appropriate size (cross section area is about 100 sq.in.) which roughly equals the rectangular supply venting from window A/C which I presume is about 4 inch by 25 inch. The return and supply ducting don't need to be the same cross-sectional area. The return plenum (next to your future refrigerator) needs to be minimum the cross section area of the A/C unit intake (larger is better). The cold supply side needs to be at least the area of the A/C unit's supply venting, but since you've introduced an inline booster fan, the duct could be just a tad smaller. I'd try an 8-inch diameter (especially since you have the booster fan on second floor. This'll increase the air velocity within circular air duct, resulting in colder air coming out of supply vent. (Faster velocity means air inside duct will have less time to absorb heat from ambient air outside.). Now, there's always a trade-off; higher wind velocity could introduce noise. But if you're willing to experiment, give a 8-inch duct a try. Watch out for that sharp bend where flex duct turns from vertical to horizontal. So.... this was a lengthy entry, but I hope you take it in a positive fashion.
@atalakeanumonarshi129
@atalakeanumonarshi129 4 года назад
One note for your great idea, you need to insulate the wood duct section to prevent your cold air from escaping through the wood. Duct / alumunium tape is enough. And if you want you could try to distribute your cold air to make it more even. But it's fine with your current setup though. I want to tried it but I already have an ductless mini split air conditioner...
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 4 года назад
That was just our mockup design to see if it would actually work. You're absolutely right. We decided to not use any wood at all instead we used signboard which is a polyurethane core wrapped on both sides by aluminum and then vinyl. Then we fiberglass a posh eat everything together and insulated it from the outside check out our other video on are finished unit that is now close to 3 years old and doing fantastic. Thank you so much for your comment
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 6 лет назад
Here's what I've done to make older mobile homes like yours super-efficient in the past. Wrap the exterior under the floors, on the walls, and on the roof with double bubble R foil. Just like you see the outside full rapping on our tiny houses. Then screw pressure-treated 2 x 2 on to the wall studs and two-by-fours around windows and doors. You will need to remove the windows and doors and reset them on the outer two-by-fours after you coat them with butyl or seal stop. The inside them with 1 by 4 or 1 by 6 cedar fence boards horizontally with a 1/8 inch Gap. Install pressure-treated two-by-fours on the roof horizontally along the eave, along the ridge ( about 8 inches from the top of the ridge) and to spaced evenly between so that you have four rows of pressure-treated two-by-fours on each side of the roof. Be sure to leave a 1 inch gap between each but in for any moisture to go through. This screws down to the ceiling rafters just on top of the are foil. Cover that with R panel metal roofing and a vented ridge cap. Leaving a 12 in overhang off of the eaves and Gable. Use 3 m big gap foam around any penetrations then trim and wrap the foam after it hardens with butyl tape and roof Mastic. To waterproof any areas around penetrations for fence and whatnot. You can buy boots but it's easier to make them and if used roof mastic about 1/2 inch thick over the butyl tape it will last for decades. Be sure and put skirting on the outside of the house I like to use cedar fence sections cut down and leave the air gaps between the boards. How's your size this is less than $3,500 in materials. Not only will it look attractive but it will be super efficient and heating and cooling after that. The main leaks you will have in your system after that will be your windows old mobile home Windows suck you might even choose to upgrade the windows when you have the new framing in place. And at that point you might try to find an old wooden door that you can cut down and make fit into the mobile home opening for more efficient front door. I hope that works for you. If you go this process please take lots of pictures and video and send them to us we would love to post them for you to show people how to turn their tiny old mobile home into a pretty cool efficient tiny house :-)
@williamforsythe5850
@williamforsythe5850 3 года назад
Far too late to tell you this but instead of ducting it up to the second floor you really need to build the AC mount on the second floor level. There is no way you are going to efficiently push cold air up 6 feet in summer. You may get some but you will still lose a lot of it. Would also pull your cold floor air in from the bottom as it starts to warm and rise. Overall great idea.
@jremy89
@jremy89 3 года назад
Brilliant
@jooshfutterman
@jooshfutterman 5 лет назад
Something like this will work perfect in a teardrop camper.
@Iceflkn
@Iceflkn 5 лет назад
Excellent work with this video!
@freeq1829
@freeq1829 6 лет назад
That's honestly a very neat idea... Gives me some other neat ideas
@Accumulator1
@Accumulator1 3 года назад
Interesting build but looks a bit complexed. I have a problem with those worthless screen filters that come with those units. Dust goes right through them and clog up the evaporator very fast. I would like a setup with a sealed intake manifold that takes a standard large micro filter maybe even double layer.
@Kidd-nq4fg
@Kidd-nq4fg 4 года назад
this is a great idea and ill probably do this in the future!
@robertfinch1658
@robertfinch1658 4 года назад
There’s a company called ClimateRight that sells exactly this. The AC unit is placed outdoors. It has 2 hoses for supply and return air. It’s made in China, though.
@casualbillionaire
@casualbillionaire 3 года назад
They stopped selling it due to tarriffs.
@bbbburns1
@bbbburns1 6 лет назад
I know several people that have tried this same type of set up and where a window unit's life span is about 10 years or so in this set up if you get 2 or 3 years b4 it burns out you will be lucky. They are not designed to move air thru any kind of restriction such as a duct. Good luck but the split ac units are a better choice and will out preform that set up.
@eXTreemator
@eXTreemator 4 года назад
Bro it's just a fan and compressornthey don't give a damn about your design, it just blows air. Only thing it will be more dehumidifing. And your estimations on lifespan are jist taken out your imagination
@gregoriosmith6994
@gregoriosmith6994 3 года назад
So you're taking cool air off the floor and sucking the little heat out of it and pushing it out of above, right? Had you considered taking the hot air from above and sucking the heat out of it and then shoving it back up to come out of the register?
@Schrimpieman
@Schrimpieman 4 года назад
Suggestive comment to improve your design: Instead of transitioning from a rectangular box (at A/C unit) to round flex duct running up to 2nd floor, you could opt to use inch-n-a-half insulated ducting material & create your own plenum up wall. You'd have to build a protective box around it (wood sheathing or sheet metal used for HVAC) because it's not meant to withstand exterior conditions. However, with less sharp corners for the airflow to encounter, your overall airflow efficiency would increase.
@jessedaggett9074
@jessedaggett9074 2 года назад
That's what I did on the kids' two story playhouse. Works wonderfully.
@sean7058
@sean7058 5 лет назад
Have a box valve for heat in winter from that same unit
@stevemac7933
@stevemac7933 7 лет назад
Awesome design with the return and all .my opinion you need the ac unit to be double what you have right now
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 7 лет назад
Steve Mac for the standard build you would be absolutely correct. But this house is built with Sips, triple radiant barriers with proper airspace between, fully breathable roof and full cedar rainscreens. It's so well insulated you literally cannot calculate the "R" factor.
@davidwilliam1406
@davidwilliam1406 6 лет назад
You need more cooling BTUs because of appliances, cooking, and body heat from at least 2 people and a dog or cat, the compressor will be maxed out. I am building a Ac unit from a evaporator from the rear of a van, and a window unit compressor . It will be a split unit . And if you use a larger compressor and a accumulator inline with a dryer you can connect several evaporators place them in different areas with air filters. Condense refrigerant with larger condenser or copper tubing submerged in a body of water, like a lake or large rain water tower. This will eliminate the need for a condenser fan and reduce power consumption. Compressor can be a automotive type belt driven by motor, or 12 volt compressor from a Prius car, or from a window unit 110 vac can be made to run from a inverter and battery's with solar power. And it would use r134a refrigerant that is available to consumers without a license with the right combination of parts a whole house Ac unit can be built from auto parts and a used window unit compressor. Add ester oil to mineral oil not pag oil. This will work with the mineral oil and ester together, and will prevent black death of the compressor.
@danielevenson3978
@danielevenson3978 4 года назад
@@davidwilliam1406 nice tips!
@coffeyvideoproductions7767
@coffeyvideoproductions7767 3 года назад
3:01 In my old three season camper the refrigerator is in a cabinet that is vented to the outside. Maybe that could help with the summer cooling in a tiny house too.
@sdutango
@sdutango 3 года назад
I was thinking a way to install my window ac outside so I don't have to cut holes to the house, by using the window for the cold air in, obviously this isn't for me, but my question is, since you have to cut holes anyway, wasn't it easier to just install the unit itself? All I see for this setup is it may get a better circulation, that's all and personally don't think it's worth the hassle. Clean install though.
@Visigoth_
@Visigoth_ 5 лет назад
I'm not an HV/AC expert or anything... but I do know simple principles like; hot air rises and cold air sinks... with that in mind, isn't your ac placed backwards "if you're trying to maximize its efficiency?" Won't the cold air "pool" in that duct work, forcing your ac unit to work extra hard trying to push it up and out? I'm all for rigging up a split 'return system' (to save some $$$) but your ac should have been near your overhang, with duct running through the ceiling with a couple return vents/openings (hot air rises) but even then, your asking a lot of that one fan... it might be a good idea to supplement it with an extra fan or to wired into a circuit switch connected to the main fan (so they all come on at the same time). As for the cold air, I would just let it dump out into the room directly from the ac unit. Edit: watched the rest of the video... the push fan takes away most of my concerns. Cool set up. :) - I still think it's weird that most air returns are floor level, that seems backwards to me...
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 4 года назад
Good observation Nathan. But in such a small freight placed the principles work in reverse. Check out the other videos that show the completed models as well as the thermal laser readings
@Jonathan-jo2xu
@Jonathan-jo2xu Месяц назад
how about a uv light in window unit to kill mold/mildew?
@mattcasdorph
@mattcasdorph 2 года назад
Question. Wouldn't it be better to have the return higher and the cold air returned down lower? Since heat rises I would think it would be more efficient pulling the hot air back instead of recycling the cold air that's lower towards the floor..
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 2 года назад
Matt that's a really good question many people feel the same way. Here's my take on it in the four decades that I've been doing this. And I say for decades not to qualify myself as someone who knows something just know what I know there are so many different ways to do things. But it's how I have developed how I look at it. It's very hard to take cold air off the floor and bring it up once it has separated in a room and the hot air has risen. If that happens in a home that has conditioning then it's out of balance. To have a temperature within one degree everywhere in the room including in the top and bottom corners of rooms and closets even, one needs to reverse the flow that hot and cold air would have naturally if they were to separate. Reversing the flow of their natural separating keeps them blended in a cool even temperature state. So instead of trying to cool down hot air and then push it into more cool air You're simply maintaining one flow of air mass. In this tiny house we have taken the laser thermometer and checked everything on days that were 18⁰f outside and on days that were 110° f outside. We never found a spot that was more than one degree different on any of the walls ceilings floors corners behind cabinets or in the back of closets. It's extremely well balanced. And it's very very quiet you don't even know it's on
@MrSunshine1206
@MrSunshine1206 7 лет назад
Great info! Thank you!
@beachboardfan9544
@beachboardfan9544 3 года назад
I'd flip the intake and return, have it pull the hot air out of the top of the building and return the cold air to the middle of the building.
@benedictcumberbatch4275
@benedictcumberbatch4275 3 года назад
Lol you remind me of John Goodman
@ecgodsmack86
@ecgodsmack86 4 года назад
Nice
@elmervidad91
@elmervidad91 6 лет назад
Great idea thanks 👍
@testt4548
@testt4548 3 года назад
Great work, Does the evaporator sitting outdoor reduces efficiency in any way? any insulation around it is needed?
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 3 года назад
Test T, that was our original mock-up unit that we did as an experiment. Here's the link to our completed unit which is now 3 years old and in Texas runs pretty much every day.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eaM68n1aWko.html
@meowzic
@meowzic 5 лет назад
so do you have a fan at the bottom vent pushing outside and one at the top pushing inside?
@mikeluongo537
@mikeluongo537 3 года назад
I COOLED A 6 RM APT WITH A 24K WINDOW UNIT MOUNTED IN A BASEMENT WINDOW, CONNECTED TO HOMADE DUCT WORK GOING TO 6 ROOMS OF MY 1ST, 1ST FLOOR APT. MY A/C GUY WAS SO BLOWN AWAY, HE TOOK PICS! I DID NOT THINK IT WAS A BIG DEAL, BUT HE COULD NOY BELIVE HOW GREAT IT WORKED. HE WAS THERE TO PUT IN REAL CENTRAL, USING MY HOMADE DUCTWORK. GAVE ME 13 YRS OF COOL, SO WTF!
@rogeliolopez2190
@rogeliolopez2190 5 лет назад
When I saw this I thought ,hey, this should be a real product and then I was reading an article of all the types of air conditioners that there are and I saw the vtac known as the vertical ptac (packaged terminal air conditioner) which is this same exact thing except it's all inside and vents hot air through a vent on its side that holds it thru the wall
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 4 года назад
Thank you for your comment. That's exactly right. But all the ones I saw cost in the thousands of dollars
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 4 года назад
If you find any that are reasonably priced please share it with us
@TroyHallBear
@TroyHallBear 6 лет назад
It's been a year, how's it working? How efficient is it? How much cooler is the house with it on vs off?
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 6 лет назад
Troy Hall Great questions! We have built a couple of units now and they are all working super efficiently! we have since upgraded everything to rigid Duct work. Check out the other video in this series to see what it looks like. because of the unique rain screens, radiant barrier, sip insulation/ construction, tall ceilings, 3 sided venting on the loft, thermal vented double roof and open floor plan, This unit doesn't need a lot to keep it cool or hot. The ac unit basically runs in Idol most of the day it doesn't pull much electricity at all. The cooling inside is extremely quiet and a gentle movement of air. In the morning we capture the early cool weather outside close the windows and just circulate the all house fan that is built into the unit and it keeps a gentle breeze blowing through out the house for hours while it continues to condense the moisture in the air keeping it very comfortable. in the winter time a small space heater on the floor produces enough warm air that circulates through the ductwork as the all house fan is on and creates a gentle warm flow leveling out temperature everywhere so that there are no hot spots and cold spots anywhere. You and I both know that just 10 degre temperature variations in corners, closet and non circulating spaces create mildew. there is none in this house. every corner is within two degrees of the ambient temperature of the room.
@TroyHallBear
@TroyHallBear 6 лет назад
I wonder if this would work as well in a mobile home? We've got 3 units right now, and even though they are really nice window units they simply can't keep up. "Technically" each unit is more then big enough to cool the entire house but nope.
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 6 лет назад
No sir it will not help. But there are things you can do to beef up the efficiency of your mobile home. Single wide, double-wide, skirting, age, type of siding, what you got maybe I can help I've done a lot of them?
@TroyHallBear
@TroyHallBear 6 лет назад
it's a 74 14x56 metal siding with NO tyvek or boarding behind it. low peak roof clad same way with SOME cardboard ( yes cardboard!!!) between metal and studs. All insulated with R11, I'm seriously considering adding insulfoam ( 3/4 r 5.6) but haven't decided on wether to put outside under sideing or inside between studs and taped. If I go outside it'll be taped and felted. I'm in north central Oklahoma btw
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 6 лет назад
What I've done in the past to make mobile homes like yours more efficient is this. Now I know this is going to sound like a lot but at the end I'll tell you how much usually cost and materials. First things first. Wrap your entire house in double bubble R foil. I like to start with the walls and then wrap the roof over the edge about a foot. Then build a metal roof on top by screwing down pressure treated two by fours horizontally one to the very edge of the eve, 1 about 8in on Center from the ridge, and then to rows between them over top of the r foil. Be sure to leave 1 to 2 inch gap between all the buttons of the two by fours and I like to make sure that the 2x4s are no more than 4 feet long. This allows for air and moisture flow freely above the are foil. Install Galvalume or colored R panel Roofing commercial grade don't go with the cheap metal up here you'll only save about $200 and you wish you had not done it the first year. Use a venting ridge cap and leave the eaves open but extend the eaves and Gables a foot past the edge of the existing roof it will take more than a 70 mile-an-hour wind to mess with that. That will also give you some overhang that well really help in the long run. Next round up a whole bunch of free cedar fence panels they're everywhere on the street talk to a couple of fence installers they'll have them waiting by the curb for you. Pull them apart and install them like we did our rain screens horizontally with a eighth of an inch Gap. And the two by fours on the back of those panels are easy to make trim pieces. Over the air foil on the walls you will first one to screw some pressure treated two by twos or two by fours rip down in half or just go ahead and put the whole two by four on vertically over top of the studs. This creates an air gap again over the our foil which is critical to insulating with radiant barriers. Pull any windows and doors off and frame width pressure-treated two-by-fours and this is where you might want to put in some new windows and doors if you have an extra amount in your budget. The foil that you put underneath of the house just needs to be stapled to the bottom of the underpinning and then make sure to put some cedar skirting around the house as well period for a house your size this should be about $3,500 in materials. Since most of the siding is free. You will notice and instant difference as soon as you wrap your house in the R foil. But don't leave it that way very long if you don't have it covered up in 90 days it's going to start falling apart. If you go this route and all the turn it into quite a beautiful home from the exterior we would love to see the video and be able to post it to show people what to do. I hope this helps :-)
@yekutielbenheshel354
@yekutielbenheshel354 7 лет назад
Excellent! Thank you!
@realityisntachoice1483
@realityisntachoice1483 5 лет назад
Gotta cover the supply from the rain.
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 4 года назад
Absolutely thank you for your comment. Check out R finished video
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 6 лет назад
If you'll do the research on r-values you'll find out that really r value is nothing more than a marketing term used to describe one of four different types of insulating factors. The math behind actual insulating factures is so complicated that it takes physicist to accomplish something that looks accurate but still is a variable. Do some research and you'll understand there's a lot of RU-vid channels on it that can help you. So the great thing about multi layering your walls and your roofs is that creating an air space over top of your pre-existing multi-layered R factors and U factors now ads an energy transference Factor by creating negative pressure on the exterior surface of your radiant foil barrier. It's an amazing field that marketing companies simplified by developing labeled our values to sell to customers who don't know the math :-)
@jenniferbyrne8334
@jenniferbyrne8334 5 лет назад
It's really not that bad to maintain a mini split versus that over complicated system and no heat pump capability
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 4 года назад
You can just as easily add AA heating unit as you can a full AC unit. My son has a professional Mini split cleaning company. Most of the homes he takes care of have 3 to 4 units and they pay him $1000 twice a year to clean the units. 50% of the year the units run at only 50% efficiency. Hes a professional even the Manufactures know that this is the case. Mini splits were designed for European stone buildings that have no area for duct work
@rkelley8475
@rkelley8475 6 лет назад
Hot air rises I would move the intake higher
@NEOCREATIONS
@NEOCREATIONS 6 лет назад
Can we convert a window AC into a split AC
@HousesBuiltTiny
@HousesBuiltTiny 6 лет назад
Buddiga Nikhil Ram Goud not with out great difficulty
@martinez1701a
@martinez1701a 6 лет назад
Why not just make a small space for a portable AC with it's own vent to the outside, that just seems overly complicated.
@jasonostler9221
@jasonostler9221 5 лет назад
Portable units create a negative pressure inside the house because they pull air from inside and push it outside the house. The discharge heat tubes are not insulated so they discharge a ton of heat inside the house. Two downsides of portable units. Windows units are better because they release all the heat outside and only the cool inside.
@ecgodsmack86
@ecgodsmack86 4 года назад
End result
@donaldpauli129
@donaldpauli129 6 лет назад
Sorry this is a real hack and adds to outside clutter plus you need a lot more airflow to push cold air out so it can fall
@compdude957
@compdude957 4 года назад
This is a very inefficient way of cooling that space. Your loosing a lot of capacity by trying to duct a window unit into the house. They aren’t designed for that and the blowers don’t move nearly enough air even with a booster fan. I’d get a mini split as it is quiet, slim, and also Is variable speed. Much better performance than a $120 window unit and a heat/cool model is only around $700-800.
@PackardBelltoll
@PackardBelltoll 6 лет назад
WHY are window unit not in the ceiling to draw the heat in .
@drsanmyattun
@drsanmyattun 6 лет назад
use mini split.
@anthonyd2923
@anthonyd2923 6 лет назад
Im sorry. Theory is great but aeems like a shoemaker jub.
@eliaskings1943
@eliaskings1943 2 года назад
Dude great idea
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